Déclaration Cartier - Ingenius

david

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 7, 2005
Sprayed a tiny single spray to my neck 2 hours ago and I'm in heaven.
I haven't used this for ages and had forgotten just how good it is.
I'm getting clean and sexy with the merest hint of parma violets. It's driving me crazy !
The weird thing is, for the first time ever I'm making a connection to Kouros.
The bottle I have is a formula from 2 years ago and it is excellent. One of the few fragrances that has not been altered/reformulated as far as my nose goes.

I'm curious to know your views and recommendations regarding the flankers (?)
 

Scentologist

Basenotes Institution
Apr 17, 2007
I have always loved this fragrance and it has been one on my list to possible get again. I have to get past that initial cumin blast but it disappears within 5 mins. What makes this fragrance is the cardamom and notes built around it. Currently I wear Hermes Voyage Parfum for that cardamom fix I need, but Declaration is the OG in this genre and I might slightly prefer it.
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I love the Essence as much as I love the one you are talking about.

Same here. I love the original Declaration (of course I do, it's an homage to Eau d'Hermes), but the Essence flanker is even better. It just smoooooths out the original in such an elegant way.

Declaration is my favorite creation of J-C Ellena. I like several of his scents, but I don't think he ever surpassed Declaration.

And it's still such a bargain!
 

Andy the frenchy

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 16, 2018
[...]
I'm curious to know your views and recommendations regarding the flankers (?)
I love mine as well.
I bought Declaration Essence and Declaration d'Un Soir before the original, based on the many reviews stating that Essence is superior. (Let's ignore the latter since it only shares the name with the original).
So, I loved Essence until I got the original. Indeed, now by comparing the two, I get that strong sweet tea note in Essence that bothers me quite a bit, and very little vetiver - what I hoped to smell prominently in Essence, but it's not the case at all. Shortly after the woody opening (which is very nice), the sweet black tea (milk chai style) starts crushing everything in my opinion, . I might get rid of Essence at some point. Why trying to fix something that ain't broken?

I haven't tried other flankers, but since this olfactive profile (dirty/spicy citrus) is probably one of my two favorite ones (together with vetiver), I'll discuss fragrances 'on the same shelf' that I think are worth trying for fans of Roudnitska dirty citrus declinations (and the plethora of inspired frgarances):

- Eau d'Hermes: is there a need to introduce it?
- Dior Eau de Cologne Fraiche: basically Eau d'Hermes Cologne, leaning a bit more unisex
- Hermes Epice Marine: high-end take on Declaration, that is a bit more musky/unisex + a salty twist
- Houbigant Cologne Intense: a citrus aromatic with a mate base... but it could be very well perceived as a citrus spicy and a leather base (Eau d'Hermes, is that you?)
- ELdO Je Suis Un Homme: Versace L'Homme with a Declaration twist
- VC&A Cologne Noire: in the same vein, with a prominent cardamom
- Diptyque L'Autre: Declaration on steroids. Loving cumin is a requirement in order to appreciate this one. Good news: I do, and I love it.

Hope it helps.
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Same here. I love the original Declaration (of course I do, it's an homage to Eau d'Hermes), but the Essence flanker is even better. It just smoooooths out the original in such an elegant way.

Declaration is my favorite creation of J-C Ellena. I like several of his scents, but I don't think he ever surpassed Declaration.

And it's still such a bargain!
Whaaa, I'm a big JCE fanboy and I don't have this! I know I've tried it before but I don't remember it well. I'll seek out the Essence flanker ASAP.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
I'm with @Cook.bot - I love the original Declaration, but I slightly prefer Declaration Essence. It's slightly darker up top (not as much sizzling citrus in the opening), slightly rounder overall (a touch of labdanum in the base), but very much focused on the same kind of spicy woody caraway/cumin accord. They're pretty similar overall, but Essence is just perfection to my nose with the addition of tea and vetiver.

I really like Declaration d'un Soir as well, but it's only got a faint connection to the original. Instead it's a beautiful "masculine" rose scent, though reasonably unisex anyway; smells clean, lightly spiced (much less than the OG or Essence), and the dry woods are in service of that core rose note. I love it and need a bottle once my sample runs out.
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Also, autumn is the absolute perfect season for Declaration. I don't care for oriental scents, and it's hard to find very spicy accords that don't lean in that direction. Declaration does it superbly.

Declaration Cologne was pretty good too, just lighter as you'd expect, but I believe it's no longer available.
 

Andy the frenchy

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 16, 2018
I wonder if I'd find it redundant already owning: Epice Marine, Angelique Sous la Pluie, and Bigarade Concentree?
EM is a bit more musky/salty than Declaration. Overall a slightly more refined, unisex take on Declaration, made for Hermes.
The short answer is: yes, EM is redundant with the original Declaration, but not so much with the Essence flanker, which takes a different direction (that I'm currently questioning, but it's all about personal tastes at this point)
 

woodnotes55

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 27, 2016
Same here. I love the original Declaration (of course I do, it's an homage to Eau d'Hermes), but the Essence flanker is even better. It just smoooooths out the original in such an elegant way.

Declaration is my favorite creation of J-C Ellena. I like several of his scents, but I don't think he ever surpassed Declaration.
Cook said it!!!! Fully agreed...

As to the flankers, I have all but Bois Blue and D'un Soir Intense. Have never smelled blue. Have samples of intense and don't care for it - or get the notes listed either. Every few months I try it again but no change yet.

I like all of the rest but none as much as original or essence. If you want to try some I would recommend:

L'Eau - like the original but adds a very nice grapefruit note
Dun Soir - this one seems fairly popular. A bit further from the original and adds rose. (Avoided this a long time due to the dislike of intense, but I find it very different from Intense and pretty nice).
Cologne - a lighter version better suited to warmer weather. Even better for heat is the eau genereuse but if it's not discontinued it seems pretty hard to find.
Excepting Bois, the three remaining flankers not listed are close enough to the original but not particularly better that I wouldn't spend a lot of time looking for them. If you run across one and like original probably a safe buy, but I will buy more original and Essence but likely not the others besides the ones listed above...... they are also generally not easy to find.
 

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
I'm a big fan of the original EdT and actually prefer it over the Essence. I think Essence leans more towards 'dirty' than 'clean'. The original EdT is all about freshness and cardamom which is pairs in a unique and refreshing way.

I have a new bottle of the original. I love it but would like a little more oomph.
If you bought a new bottle, the current advice I was told is to let some juice in to the bottle (spray some out) and let it sit for a while. It seems to improve in both projection and longevity after a while. This has been my experience too. It's really wonderful juice and very reasonably priced.
 
Oct 8, 2003
Wore it to death in my teens, fantastic! The original does the trick for me.
Nobody has mentioned the most recent flanker, Haute Fraîcheur, which I found a distant departure but quite nice as a light tea scent.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rum

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
I have always loved this fragrance and it has been one on my list to possible get again. I have to get past that initial cumin blast but it disappears within 5 mins. What makes this fragrance is the cardamom and notes built around it.
Wow, I find that opening arguably one of the best aspects of the original EdT. Maybe I like cumin more than I actually know 🤔
 

Foamywax

Basenotes Dependent
May 2, 2013
I'm a big fan of the original EdT and actually prefer it over the Essence. I think Essence leans more towards 'dirty' than 'clean'. The original EdT is all about freshness and cardamom which is pairs in a unique and refreshing way.


If you bought a new bottle, the current advice I was told is to let some juice in to the bottle (spray some out) and let it
sit for a while. It seems to improve in
both projection and longevity after a while. This has been my experience too. It's really wonderful juice and very reasonably priced.
I'm a big fan of the original EdT and actually prefer it over the Essence. I think Essence leans more towards 'dirty' than 'clean'. The original EdT is all about freshness and cardamom which is pairs in a unique and refreshing way.


If you bought a new bottle, the current advice I was told is to let some juice in to the bottle (spray some out) and let it sit for a while. It seems to improve in both projection and longevity after a while. This has been my experience too. It's really wonderful juice and very reasonably priced.
Will do! It does have projection.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
I'm a big fan of the original EdT and actually prefer it over the Essence. I think Essence leans more towards 'dirty' than 'clean'. The original EdT is all about freshness and cardamom which is pairs in a unique and refreshing way.
I think we’ve discussed this in other threads, but I’ve noticed some mild variations in strength & level of “dirtiness” depending on the age of the juice, at least for Essence. My first exposure was an older sample - from back when the declaration logo was all lowercase letters - and the dirty cumin was there but fairly subdued. Comparing against my sample of Declaration EDT, the OG EDT actually seemed dirtier / sharper / more focused on cumin (though the OG EDT appeared to be a more recent version with capitalized Declaration logo). When I got my 2017 bottle of Essence, the cumin note was dialed a few notches higher, and I can see why sensitive noses run screaming. I love it both ways, so no issue here. I’m not sure if it’s a different formulation or if those notes gradually burn off / smooth out in older bottles, but I have certainly not found my 2017 bottle to be any less intense.

Anyway, stellar scent profile from JCE in all versions I’ve tried - and it still feels unique and timeless in 2022.
 

Ken_Russell

Basenotes Institution
Jan 21, 2006
From a personal viewpoint alone, while already enjoying the regular Declaration-also enjoyed the Bois Bleu, d'un Soir and Essence flankers at least equal to the initial Declaration in terms of complexity.
While in terms of performance have gotten at least from d'un Soir and Essence further improved, longer lasting results of compared to Declaration.
 

Opiate

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 19, 2010
Wearing some vintage Declaration today. It’s a cool fragrance. I always get a pear Note and fig note in it, but neither are listed.
Im a fan of Declaration Parfum too but I think I’m in the minority on that one.

I’m surprised no one has mentioned the similarity to Terre D’Hermes. To me it’s extremely similar in structure.
 

Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
Wearing some vintage Declaration today. It’s a cool fragrance. I always get a pear Note and fig note in it, but neither are listed.
Im a fan of Declaration Parfum too but I think I’m in the minority on that one.

I’m surprised no one has mentioned the similarity to Terre D’Hermes. To me it’s extremely similar in structure.
Definitely get the similarity to TdH as well, though I think the sharp spices make it more of a, well, "declaration", or just more aggressive in general. But they both have a similar dry citrus woody thing going.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Oh damn. Still? My sympathies. The nasal sabbatical you recommended to me got my nose about 90% cleared up, but I'm still having to do the saline spray two or three times a day to help with the dryness.
I'm almost out of the woods, but not quite yet. I really cooked my nose bad this last time.
 

LiveJazz

Funky fresh
Basenotes Plus
Mar 16, 2006
Belatedly joining the Essence chorus. I have a bottle of the original and then later got a decant of Essence, probably after being prodded by Ms. Bot. Even knowing it has quite a following, I was skeptical that it could improve on the original and not come out feeling mushy with the added softness. It does feel softer and heftier, but not mushy or flabby. And damn it if I don't find myself reaching for that decant more than the original.

Also a big fan of the (discontinued) Declaration Cologne flanker, since we're on the topic. A light version of the original with a fantastic ginger root note up top, and lighter citrus. It doesn't last long, but it's nice if one is looking for a warm weather Declaration and especially if you like ginger.
 

Latest News

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...

Top