Current Antaeus formulation...

Voronoi

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2020
Hey Folks,

Can anyone, particularly someone with knowledge of, or even better access to vintage versions, provide me with a sober account of the quality of the current Antaeus formulation?

I have read a number of previous threads on the topic but they often pertain to either the version prior to the current or contain they typical “current reformulation is trash” rhetoric. Zealot Crusader deserves special mention for attempting to provide a reasoned assessment of vintage vs current, but subsequent reading of a seperate thread reveals he was in fact assessing a vintage versus a early to mid 00s version haha.

So, if anyone can provide a reasoned and nuanced assessment of the current formulation it would be much appreciated!

Thoughts on whether or not it is worth buying? And if it is in-fact such a pallid a version of itself any suggestions of similar fragrances, which is to say leather/woody Chypres that use castoreum, that may be in better condition.

Many Thanks
 

Voronoi

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2020
Thanks folks. Any specific accounts of the key differences or changes to the scent profile would also be much appreciated, as also more general statements on quality. Cheers.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
Thanks folks. Any specific accounts of the key differences or changes to the scent profile would also be much appreciated, as also more general statements on quality. Cheers.

In my opinion Antaeus is a perfume with character. You know how some people you meet are just nameless people, and then rarely there's a man or woman out there who seems as though they've stepped out of a wonderful novel? Antaeus is that sort of person. Antaeus has grown and changed, and some people don't like change, but if Antaeus had a physical face, although it's aged it is still recognizable as Antaeus. My nose detects the only major difference being there's a more prominent patchouli in the modern version, but it's nothing like a headshop style essential out patchouli.
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
Current is pretty good. It's quite a bit lighter feeling. Given a bunch of vintage, more than I can likely use, I haven't gone for a bottle of the current version. But having sampled it, I liked wearing it. I was impressed, at times, with how it was updated. I could understand someone liking it more than the original. I think of it as Antaeus Light.

I like current Antaeus more than current Bandit, if that helps. Bandit is more of a pencil sketch of the older version. Current Antaeus has taken some things away, but other things have been added.
 

Blitzkrieg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2020
Current is pretty good. It's quite a bit lighter feeling. Given a bunch of vintage, more than I can likely use, I haven't gone for a bottle of the current version. But having sampled it, I liked wearing it. I was impressed, at times, with how it was updated. I could understand someone liking it more than the original. I think of it as Antaeus Light.

I like current Antaeus more than current Bandit, if that helps.

Updating a Classic isn't a bad thing if it's done well. They are, after all, trying to appeal to a completely different generation.

I own the vintage and Sport version. I haven't worn either for a long time as I developed some sort of reaction to them both. Nothing epidermal, but instead a sense of nausea. I wore both for years before that occurred and I have no explanation for its cause.

In 2013 I tried that years version of Antaeus in a duty free shop. I truly didn't like it, especially compared to the original. I believe some reforms just don't cut it and they are forced to tweak the formula for the next reformulation.

Since I see good noses here saying the current offering smells pretty good, I believe it. Not that Antaeus is a cash-cow, but it seems to be popular enough and generational enough to keep it in production and to tweak it so it accommodates the target audience.
 

StylinLA

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2009
After 11 years here, it seems like CHANEL ANTAEUS is one of the scents wherein the original vintage version is most romanticized.

I do often see small bottles of "vintage" ANTAEUS offered for sale online and am tempted to buy one to settle it for my own nose.

I will say the current version is a very nice scent. It is definitely worth owning.

KOUROS and ANTAEUS were two big animalic hits from the 80s. Both have been reformulated through the years but retain their basic character.
Some of the civet has been dialed back in KOUROS and the castoreum dialed back in ANTAEUS.

From what I can tell, KOUROS has held up better than ANTAEUS is the eyes of those comparing vintage to current.

I'm sure I would like the vintage versions of both. But I have no qualms about wearing the current versions reformulated more for current sensibilities.
 

Voronoi

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2020
Thanks everyone. Goldwine and Bavard your comments were particularly helpful.
 
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AlphaFrank75

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 5, 2017
I have four vintage bottles from the '80s and early '90s along with a bottle from 2011. I like my newest version as much as most of the vintage bottles. If the OP isn't into chasing down a vintage bottle, I think the current version is worth owning.
 

Blitzkrieg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2020
I have four vintage bottles from the '80s and early '90s along with a bottle from 2011. I like my newest version as much as most of the vintage bottles. If the OP isn't into chasing down a vintage bottle, I think the current version is worth owning.

When you say you like your newest version, are you referring to the 2011 bottle or a current purchase not included in the 5 aforementioned bottles?

Serious question.
 

Voronoi

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2020
For the record - the latest version was released in approx 2018 wasn’t it? Or as it earlier?
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
For the record - the latest version was released in approx 2018 wasn’t it? Or as it earlier?

Maybe 2016-ish. There were a few changes around then (e.g., changing edt concentree's to edp's).
 

Voronoi

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2020
Thanks for that, Bavard.

Cheers folks. I have requested a bottle as an Xmas gift.

Hopefully this thread will prove a useful resource for others. I had noticed many other threads that touched on the recent reformulation of Antaeus had a lot of nostalgia and out-right, often vitriolic, dismissal of the current formulation which I don't think is that useful personally. While I understand that fans of fragrances such as Antaeus and Kouros or other such classics that have been significantly reformulated will often be highly critical of said reformulations, which is totally fair, I think it is best practice for *aficionados* to try and articulate the differences between vintage and current formulations in meaningful and nuanced manner. That way we are producing information that is more useful to the uninitiated. For some reason, compared to other fragrances such as Fahrenheit, I had found it really hard to get this kind of 'sober assessment' of the current formulation on Basenotes or for Antaeus.
 

saminlondon

Well-known member
Aug 25, 2011
I haven't smelt current within the last couple of years, but IIRC it is a smoother, easier wear than the vintage - less castoreum, less of that distinctive honeyed beeswax note, and less prominent aldehydes. It stands up well, particularly among all the other dross that's around.
 

Slayerized

Well-known member
Jul 17, 2011
Lots of read here too if that is useful to you:

https://www.basenotes.net/threads/460585-Question-for-owners-of-current-Antaeus

I own 2x original 80's vintage, middle 00's stuff, a 2016 and a 2020 bottle and still stick to what I wrote in my posts in this thread.
Huge difference between vintage and current which one is still ok but more of an office fragrance now as it lost a lot of its animalic and power aspect (the 'oomph' it once had is gone, imo). E.g. out of my 2020 version I get no (if hardly any) castoreum nor beeswax anymore the vintage was famous for.
 

Emanuel76

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2018
The recent version no longer has castoreum. At least I'm not detecting any of it. My bottle is from 2017.
But it's definitely dirty. There is some vegetal-earthy-sweaty dirtiness. It could be carrot seeds, or maybe it's some earthiness from myrrh and patchouli, sweat from coriander and cumin + jasmine.

The vintage version (1988) differs a lot from the current version.
But the current version (2017) it's perfectly fine and it has hefty performances (longevity, projection).

I get that "wax" + benzoin in the dry down of vintage Antaeus (1988), wax as in (my) natural wax candles. It's awesome.
The recent version doesn't have that type of natural wax odor, but its amber accord surely has some kind of muddy-waxiness.

Many will not like the vintage version.
It makes me laugh when I remember one of my friends deeply worried whispering at me: OMG! I don't know, It may seem OK to you from up close, but it smells awful from here.
Vintage Antaeus, besides vintage Jules and Gold, is one of the perfumes that my friends hate the most. Which is OK for me, but maybe others are more caring.
 
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MattJP

Well-known member
Feb 14, 2013
I bought the current version, direct from Chanel, and it is wonderful to me.

I never wore it way back then and didn't know the scent since mine was a blind buy - until I smelled it. The scent was so familiar from back then - bars, clubs, etc, so I guess I'd smelled it not knowing what it was!
 

KBF1972

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Aug 23, 2013
I own both vintage and current and love them both equally. The current is a bit fresher but still a great scent and performs great.
 

Blitzkrieg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2020
My 2011 bottle is my most current version and is not vintage.

Good to know. I must have sampled a bad batch in 2013 at that Duty Free. There's too many people here satisfied with non-vintage and from what I'm reading, the current is different but good.

I appreciate the clarification.
 

Voronoi

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2020
Ahhh yeh Slayerized there are a few good accounts in the thread you posted, I will admit.

So do people think there is now little to now castoreum in the current version? Is that general consensus?
 

Voronoi

Well-known member
Oct 10, 2020
Oh sure, one assumes they use some kind of synthetic castoreum if it’s still present.
 

Slayerized

Well-known member
Jul 17, 2011
Oh sure, one assumes they use some kind of synthetic castoreum if it’s still present.

Imo there is not as well as there is (hardly) no honeyed beeswax anymore which you could smell for hours in the drydown of the vintage which is one of the main reasons (besides lack of castoreum and strength) vintage and current are pretty different to say the least.....
 

StylinLA

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2009
After 11 years of Basenotes threads, someone was kind enough to send me a sample of vintage ANTAEUS.

Finally get a chance to put my nose on it.

For starters, my nose is denser than most here I'm sure. Not through Covid, it has just always been a bit lesser than many people and other Basenoters I know.

Having said that, I have vintage on my left hand, current on my right.

The vintage does seem a bit deeper and richer. But they honestly smell very similar to me. The vintage is not crushing me with castoreum.
The current seems to project more to my nose.

After a few hours, the vintage is hanging on better than current.

I would't offer this as a definitive study for all to regard as sacred and true.

But for me, now having tried the vintage, I am comfortable that the current ANTAEUS is really very good, not horribly compromised and vastly different than vintage.
 
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Slayerized

Well-known member
Jul 17, 2011
After 11 years of Basenotes threads, someone was kind enough to send me a sample of vintage ANTAEUS.

Finally get a chance to put my nose on it.

For starters, my nose is denser than most here I'm sure. Not through Covid, it has just always been a bit lesser than many people and other Basenoters I know.

Having said that, I have vintage on my left hand, current on my right.

The vintage does seem a bit deeper and richer. But they honestly smell very similar to me. The vintage is not crushing me with castoreum.
The current seems to project more to my nose.

After a few hours, the vintage is hanging on better than current.

I would't offer this as a definitive study for all to regard as sacred and true.

But for me, now having tried the vintage, I am comfortable that the current ANTAEUS is really very good, horribly compromised and vastly different than vintage.

I really wonder if you got a first early 80's vintage formulation stating this about the castoreum and not mentioning the honeyed beeswax drydown the vintage is all about and the current completely lacks. To me the only similarities are in the first minutes, after that huge difference.
 

StylinLA

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2009
I really wonder if you got a first early 80's vintage formulation stating this about the castoreum and not mentioning the honeyed beeswax drydown the vintage is all about and the current completely lacks. To me the only similarities are in the first minutes, after that huge difference.

A few hours in, I do notice the vintage is quite a bit more tenacious. Wearing close, but noticeable.

Slayerized, as I said, my nose is fairly dense. So the beeswax and castoreum are probably there, but I'm not picking up on it.
 

Slayerized

Well-known member
Jul 17, 2011
A few hours in, I do notice the vintage is quite a bit more tenacious. Wearing close, but noticeable.

Slayerized, as I said, my nose is fairly dense. So the beeswax and castoreum are probably there, but I'm not picking up on it.

:thumbsup:
 

Blitzkrieg

Well-known member
Oct 13, 2020
A few hours in, I do notice the vintage is quite a bit more tenacious. Wearing close, but noticeable.

Slayerized, as I said, my nose is fairly dense. So the beeswax and castoreum are probably there, but I'm not picking up on it.


Here's the bottles they were decanted from so you know for sure.

IMG_0847.jpg
 

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