Cold pressed citrus

[nukehaus]

I have some citrus EOs (tangerine, mandarin, lemon, lime, tahiti lime, key lime) that are cold pressed... I recently discovered that this may make them unsuitable for perfumery. I know that bergamot has to be specially processed to remove the skin sensitizing aspects, is it fair to assume this needs to be done with all citrus essential oils?

I am reading the SDS for the mandarin EO and i see warnings about skin sensitization, so maybe this EO just isn't suitable for perfumery. Perhaps i need to reacquire these EOs except make sure they are steam distilled (or whatever process removes the sensitizing components)... Any guidance on this would be appreciated, i want to be sure i'm not doing something i shouldn't be.

 

[RomanB]

Bergapten is easily removed with potassium hydroxide, here is a scientific article where the procedure is described. Magnetic stirrer is needed, but it is a useful basic tool. At home potassium hydroxide is used to unclog pipes, so everyone already know how to handle it. Knowing this you will never again need to search for a special bergapten free essential oil or a composition.

 

[jsweet]

Maybe best not to play around with lye in your fragrance materials if you don't know what you're doing to be honest.

I had not heard anything to the effect that cold pressed eos are unsuitable. The cold pressed tangerine I got from Liberty hasn't caused any obvious problems in blends.

 

[RomanB]

Maybe best not to play around with lye in your fragrance materials if you don't know what you're doing to be honest.

I had not heard anything to the effect that cold pressed eos are unsuitable. The cold pressed tangerine I got from Liberty hasn't caused any obvious problems in blends.

There is a link to a scientific article where it is described in details what to do. It is one of commercial methods of treatment. Not the best one, but effective and simple.

 

[jsweet]

Sure, and I'm not calling into doubt that this can be done by someone with access to, among other things, the components to make lye, a stir plate, and a separatory funnel. I think I took issue with the suggestion that someone who lacks experience with that equipment or with handling dangerous chemicals should give this a try. The article you linked doesn't teach basic lab safety or safe waste disposal practices. But yeah if you have access to a lab go to town, just make sure there isn't any lye in your perfume.

 

[Saraiva]

Strawberries and peanuts can cause anaphylactic shock which is an allergic reaction, I haven't seen anyone ban peanuts and strawberries yet.
Everything is poison depends on the dose.
Almost all citrus fruits have a dose of bergapten, the maximum percentage in finished products is identified in the IFRA manuals.

https://ifrafragrance.org/standards/IFRA_STD_087.pdf

 

[Saraiva]

Sure, and I'm not calling into doubt that this can be done by someone with access to, among other things, the components to make lye, a stir plate, and a separatory funnel. I think I took issue with the suggestion that someone who lacks experience with that equipment or with handling dangerous chemicals should give this a try. The article you linked doesn't teach basic lab safety or safe waste disposal practices. But yeah if you have access to a lab go to town, just make sure there isn't any lye in your perfume.

How is it that without a chemical analysis, it is possible to assess whether there are residues of sodium or potassium hydroxide? 🤔
This is not an operation to do at home, it is better to follow the IFRA recommendations or buy products free of bergapten, but they will smell different.

 

[RomanB]

How is it that without a chemical analysis, it is possible to assess whether there are residues of sodium or potassium hydroxide? 🤔
This is not an operation to do at home, it is better to follow the IFRA recommendations or buy products free of bergapten, but they will smell different.

If you are in doubt, drop in a tiny bit of some weak organic acid, it will react with residual KOH.

 

[nukehaus]

I guess i just need to check the GCMS reports for the EOs i have and make sure i'm not hitting a critical limit for bergapten... Unfortunately the mandarin EO i have doesn't have a GCMS report, but there is the SDS: https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/msds/MSDS_MandarinEssentialOil.pdf

I don't see bergapten mentioned in the SDS so maybe this EO is safe at higher doses, respecting other limits of course.

 

[parker25mv]

I know that bergamot has to be specially processed to remove the skin sensitizing aspects, is it fair to assume this needs to be done with all citrus essential oils?

It is especially important for bergamot. But is also kind of important for lime. Lemon can also be an issue but not as bad as lime. Grapefruit is only a little bit bad, not a problem unless much higher levels are used. Orange and mandarin orange (tangerine) are not a problem.

"Rectified" bergamot just means that it is steam distilled, which means that it should then not be a problem.

The skin sensitising aspects of citrus (bergamot, lime) are unique. It can cause irritation and burning, but only after the exposure to the sun.

If you're considering using cold-pressed oil, the safe amount is considered to be no more than 1 drop of bergamot within a 30 ml base. For lime it's 4 drops, lemon 12 drops, and grapefruit 24 drops.

 

[jfrater]

Strawberries and peanuts can cause anaphylactic shock which is an allergic reaction, I haven't seen anyone ban peanuts and strawberries yet.
Everything is poison depends on the dose.
Almost all citrus fruits have a dose of bergapten, the maximum percentage in finished products is identified in the IFRA manuals.

https://ifrafragrance.org/standards/IFRA_STD_087.pdf

This is the correct answer - cold pressed oils are perfectly suited to perfumery and are nicer than chemically altered bergapten free ones. If you intend to sell you may need to comply with some limits on quantity set by IFRA and you will absolutely have to comply with limits (if any) set by your government for cosmetics.

If you decide you need to use bergapten free oils, please don't manufacturer them yourself at home - they are readily available from most essential oils suppliers of repute.

 

[David Ruskin]

Cold pressed citrus oils can cause unpleasant effects on skin, as the bergaptenes some of them contain will cause skin sensitivity. Bergamot, Lime, Lemon, and Grapefruit will all do this. Put a fragrance containing any of these citrus oils onto your skin, go out and expose yourself to the sunshine. You may not notice any side effects until you put the same fragrance onto your skin again. I think it better to not risk it. Just buy bergaptene free oils and you will be safe. All suppliers of citrus oils will provide these. I'm afraid that cold pressed oils are not suitable for all types of perfumery. It depends on the end product. All leave on skin fragrances should not contain cold pressed citrus oils.

 

[ourmess]

All leave on skin fragrances should not contain cold pressed citrus oils.

Neither the Citrus sinensis family (sweet orange, blood orange, &c) nor the Citrus reticulata family (mandarin, tangerine, &c) contain any furanocoumarins, correct? So cold-pressed extractions of those should be fine.

 

[jsweet]

Neither the Citrus sinensis family (sweet orange, blood orange, &c) nor the Citrus reticulata family (mandarin, tangerine, &c) contain any furanocoumarins, correct? So cold-pressed extractions of those should be fine.

Exactly what I was wondering, and my cursory research doesn't produce much.

 

[David Ruskin]

Neither the Citrus sinensis family (sweet orange, blood orange, &c) nor the Citrus reticulata family (mandarin, tangerine, &c) contain any furanocoumarins, correct? So cold-pressed extractions of those should be fine.

Apologies, I forgot to add that. I mentioned the oils that contained bergaptenes, so assumed those I didn't mention would be thought of as safe. You are right about Orange and Mandarin.

 

[jfrater]

IFRA lists pure cold pressed lemon as safe to 2%, Bergamot to 0.4%, and bitter orange to 1.25%. Anything else containin FCs are covered by "Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils" and limits total bergapten (5-methoxypsoralen) to 0.0015% for formulas where you have calculated the true quantity (by GCMS, etc). The other oils not mentioned in my first sentence but covered by this latter guideline are Angelica, cumin, grapefruit, lime, rue. Small amounts also : petitgrain mandarin, tangerine oil, parsley leaf.

As others said above, sweet orange and its family is fine and the only restrictions there would come from any geraniol, citral, etc calculated therein.

 

[parker25mv]

Neither the Citrus sinensis family (sweet orange, blood orange, &c) nor the Citrus reticulata family (mandarin, tangerine, &c) contain any furanocoumarins, correct? So cold-pressed extractions of those should be fine.

This is correct.
Citrus oils can still cause skin sensitivity problems for other reasons, because they contain high amounts of limonene, but that is a separate discussion.

 

[nukehaus]

Thanks for your input, folks. Didn't realize this was a more complex topic. Very useful information!

 

[ourmess]

Didn't realize this was a more complex topic.

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