Clearwood | Basenotes

Clearwood

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I've been trying to find an alternative to iso e super for use as a structural element in woody compositions to provide volume & diffusion, but that affirmatively smells different than ies. So I've just experimented a bit w Clearwood at super high doses as part of a woody ambery base accord. Even at 15- 20% of total formula (of which about 2/3 is base materials), Clearwood is very transparent to citrus, herbal, aromatic top notes & floral heart notes. Yet it provides excellent structure & volume to the woody base accord containing also some wood resins, woods, and amber molecules. It's own affirmative smell is obvs totally different from IES & as described above, yet it works great as a structural & volume element.
 

Stefan.E

Well-known member
Nov 18, 2020
I've been trying to find an alternative to iso e super for use as a structural element in woody compositions to provide volume & diffusion, but that affirmatively smells different than ies. So I've just experimented a bit w Clearwood at super high doses as part of a woody ambery base accord. Even at 15- 20% of total formula (of which about 2/3 is base materials), Clearwood is very transparent to citrus, herbal, aromatic top notes & floral heart notes. Yet it provides excellent structure & volume to the woody base accord containing also some wood resins, woods, and amber molecules. It's own affirmative smell is obvs totally different from IES & as described above, yet it works great as a structural & volume element.

Thanks for your insight! I overdosed Clearwood once and it wasn't bad actually, gave a similar feel as a high amount of ies (kind of reminded me of a fancy furniture store smell, don't ask why). Perhaps combining it with cedramber and/or ambrox (ambrox super feels close to iso super to me, in the sense that out of all the ambroxes I get a timbersilk ish smell). I'll try some things like this when I have the chance, thanks for the idea!
 

polysom

Well-known member
Apr 4, 2021
Thank you for the post. In my memory I always had that my nose didn't like Clearwood at all, so I put it aside and haven't considered it since. After your post, I went back to it and smelled it again. I don't know what I had then. It smells quite pleasantly earthy, like patchouli to me now. I think I'll experiment with it again now. Thanks for making me think of Clearwood again, it could be a great match for my current accord.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
Thank you for the post. In my memory I always had that my nose didn't like Clearwood at all, so I put it aside and haven't considered it since. After your post, I went back to it and smelled it again. I don't know what I had then. It smells quite pleasantly earthy, like patchouli to me now. I think I'll experiment with it again now. Thanks for making me think of Clearwood again, it could be a great match for my current accord.

What clearwood "smells like" on its own seems to be a pretty minor aspect of its performance & function in blends.
 

Bmaster

Member
Sep 24, 2021
I would whole-heartedly agree that clearwood is an exceptional aroma and adds volume to a formula. I would consider the aroma strictly confined to the floral spice (the top) of patchouli, without the earthy, pungent, dirty olfactory. However, in my experience the fragrance holds lightly and is easily lost in most potent blends. I could see clearwood being an addition to floral or lighter accords, perhaps as you suggest, wood accords.
 

Geco

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2015
To give the Clearwood a more woody/transparent and less "patchouli" direction, while maintaining a good volume and scent, mix it with half Timbersilk (approximately...). It's a beautiful wedding...
 

Yuri-G

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2020
I struggle a bit with clearwood. It was one of the first aromachems I bought. It smells great from the bottle but, on skin I find it sort of mouldy smelling, with a fish tank or dank water aspect. I have used it fairly successfully a couple of times, as part of a mossy theme, and in a chocolatey patchouli accord. I'd like to find some more ways of using it.

I'll try the timbersilk idea! Might it work with Piconia? I'm thinking of getting some of this and it sounds like a good match.
 

Geco

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2015
I struggle a bit with clearwood. It was one of the first aromachems I bought. It smells great from the bottle but, on skin I find it sort of mouldy smelling, with a fish tank or dank water aspect. I have used it fairly successfully a couple of times, as part of a mossy theme, and in a chocolatey patchouli accord. I'd like to find some more ways of using it.

I'll try the timbersilk idea! Might it work with Piconia? I'm thinking of getting some of this and it sounds like a good match.

Uhmmm....Piconia is good, but if you fear the moldy look maybe not the best addition to Clearwood ...
Rather, try adding some Grisambrene (which does the same thing with Cistus that Clearwood does with Patchouli, that is, it frees it from the dirty parts and preserves its better heart, or almost ...), which adds a dry exotic touch with a sweet aspect. Maybe in a deal like this:

Clearwood 50%,
Timbersilk, 45%,
Grisambrene 5%,

or similar ....
 

Yuri-G

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2020
Uhmmm....Piconia is good, but if you fear the moldy look maybe not the best addition to Clearwood ...
Rather, try adding some Grisambrene (which does the same thing with Cistus that Clearwood does with Patchouli, that is, it frees it from the dirty parts and preserves its better heart, or almost ...), which adds a dry exotic touch with a sweet aspect. Maybe in a deal like this:

Clearwood 50%,
Timbersilk, 45%,
Grisambrene 5%,

or similar ....

That sounds lovely, but i don't have any. It doesn't seem to be readily available either. Could try the same with regular labdanum I guess? Or something else?
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
That sounds lovely, but i don't have any. It doesn't seem to be readily available either. Could try the same with regular labdanum I guess? Or something else?

PA has dynamone, which is a really nice strong labdanum extract. Dunno how it compares to grisambrene...
 

Geco

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2015
PA has dynamone, which is a really nice strong labdanum extract. Dunno how it compares to grisambrene...

I don't have Dynamone but it seems to be very close to Grisambrene .... I think that even a slightly sweet natural cistus oil (there are many different types) could go, but maybe it would be enough at 1/2%,it's very strong .....
 

Yuri-G

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2020
Do you guys see clearwood as a middle or base note? I find it not as long lasting as Patchouli essential oil. Good scents says it has a substantivity of 168 hours. I guess this puts it into pretty long-lasting mid note territory, which is my personal experience.
 

pavomi

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2016
Do you guys see clearwood as a middle or base note? I find it not as long lasting as Patchouli essential oil. Good scents says it has a substantivity of 168 hours. I guess this puts it into pretty long-lasting mid note territory, which is my personal experience.

out of my perspective, clearwood is a basenote when we are talking about substantivity. it can of course influence top and heart notes too. depends on the context.
 

Yuri-G

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2020
out of my perspective, clearwood is a basenote when we are talking about substantivity. it can of course influence top and heart notes too. depends on the context.

Noted, thanks.

So, having been inspired by the ideas above I knocked up the following sketch. I don't have any labdanum synths so used the absolute, along with some other materials that I thought might be complimentary to the theme.

Material/ppt./%

Clearwood - 280 - 27.97%
Timbersilk - 280 - 27.97%
Cashmeran Velvet - 52 - 5.24%
Evernyl - 7 - 0.70%
Ambrettolide - 17 - 1.75%
Labdanum - 14 - 1.40%
Bergamot - 140 - 13.99%
Petitgrain - 70 - 6.99%
Florol - 140 - 13.99%

It needs to rest for a few days of course, but initial testing on skin is pretty nice. The florol was a punt, but it lifts everything up nicely and works fantastically with the petitgrain, whilst freshening the clearwood. I would lower it somewhat in a more filled out sketch. I can get the clearwood straight away and it works nicely. The labdanum adds richness.

Dumb question - as this contains bergamot, labdanum and patchouli and mossy materials, could it be considered a chypre, or are florals like jasmine a requirement also? I know petitgrain is kind of a floral.
 

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