Citrus suggestion

[tensor9]

I need a deep, smooth, rich citrus with a hint of bitterness for an opening.

Bergamot is too bright and has a soapy vibe.

Suggestions are appreciated.

 

[David Ruskin]

Grapefruit and Lemon with touches of thiolimonene and Vetikol Acetate. Lemongrass could add depth.

 

[tensor9]

Thanks!

 

[tensor9]

Grapefruit and Lemon with touches of thiolimonene and Vetikol Acetate. Lemongrass could add depth.

thanks! Think a lime-based addition would be of use?

 

[mnitabach]

Robertet Cedrat Heart

 

[tensor9]

Robertet Cedrat Heart

You love this stuff. Ok; I’ll grab some.

 

[jfrater]

The classic Bouvardia base would be perfect for this. The one Coty used is here but there are lots of formulas online if you wanted to make your own. It's a citrus with a touch of floralcy and richness. In L'Origan it blends with bergamot to make it a better fit for the rich heart.

 

[tensor9]

The classic Bouvardia base would be perfect for this. The one Coty used is here but there are lots of formulas online if you wanted to make your own. It's a citrus with a touch of floralcy and richness. In L'Origan it blends with bergamot to make it a better fit for the rich heart.

I think I’m going to order a bunch of stuff form you.

 

[mnitabach]

Dunno about Jamie's or other Bouvardia bases, but I have made & studied the Appel Bouvardia 10 base. It is definitely much more of a complete perfume than a citrus or floral accord, IMO & IME.

 

[parker25mv]

I need a deep, smooth, rich citrus with a hint of bitterness for an opening.

Bitterness can be added with a tiny bit of petitgrain. Another way to add bitterness is orange flower ether (does not really smell like orange flower, despite the name). Its bitterness is celery-like or inner white pith from a grapefruit.

There is citrolate, which is medium deep, mostly orange-tangerine and plasticky but is also a little ruby red grapefruit-like, has some bitter peel effect, maybe like a tea made from dried orange peel. Another one that is harder to come by is gardenia decalone, it has some of the deep texture found in bergamot feel while still being smooth but also has bitter rhubarb tonality. It's sort of analogous to nootkatone but leaning much more "orange" in color rather than green, a little less grapefruit and more mouth-puckering red rhubarb, and more smooth.

Keep in mind "deep" smelling things are usually not primarily smelled as an opening but tend to be base notes.

 

[jfrater]

Dunno about Jamie's or other Bouvardia bases, but I have made & studied the Appel Bouvardia 10 base. It is definitely much more of a complete perfume than a citrus or floral accord, IMO & IME.

Yeah Appell's base is a very floral base focussed on iris. The classical bouvardia De Laire is a citrus with hints of floralcy.

 

[mnitabach]

Yeah Appell's base is a very floral base focussed on iris. The classical bouvardia De Laire is a citrus with hints of floralcy.

Is there a de Laire formula or recon available to look at?

 

[Alex F.]

Is there a de Laire formula or recon available to look at?

Would be interested, too. I have around 10 different Bouvardia base fomulas in my collection. Haven't tried any of them yet. Only Poucher's looks citric.

 

[foxbins]

Four posts have been deleted for bickering. Can we resume the discussion of helping the OP find a citrus component for the formulation? Thanks.

 

[jfrater]

Is there a de Laire formula or recon available to look at?

No formula but my Fraterworks Bouvardia is the original De Laire base.

 

[jfrater]

Would be interested, too. I have around 10 different Bouvardia base fomulas in my collection. Haven't tried any of them yet. Only Poucher's looks citric.

As I just mentioned to mnitabach, my Bouvardia base is the original De Laire base as used by Coty and many others. It was 0.8% in the original formula of L'Origan. It has an orange blossom nuance (whereas Appel and many others focus on the iris/violet component) and a TRACE of violet - barely anything. If I had to classify it I would say it is in the orange blossom family more so than any other. It has a good fixative power also - it is not a bright fresh bergamot type - but a deep citrus with staying power. All of my bases are available from 5 grams and upwards.

 

[mnitabach]

No formula but my Fraterworks Bouvardia is the original De Laire base.

I hope I ordered some from you! 😹😹😹 If not, next order.

 

[Mando]

Kaffir Lime Leaf is a very nice citrus note.

I love Jamie’s Bouvardia base. It was a very pleasant surprise to me. An orange blossom-like bouquet scent. You don’t need a lot to create a nice difference 😉

 

[jfrater]

I hope I ordered some from you! 😹😹😹 If not, next order.

You did in fact

 

[jfrater]

Kaffir Lime Leaf is a very nice citrus note.

I love Jamie’s Bouvardia base. It was a very pleasant surprise to me. An orange blossom-like bouquet scent. You don’t need a lot to create a nice difference 😉

You can really see why Coty only felt the need to use 0.8% right? It is such a great modifier of top notes but with the power to compete with that giant heart note of dianthine and Iralia.