Chypre Formula

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
Benzyl acetate 276
Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde 138
Lyral 83
Aurantiol 41
Lyrame 28
Ethylene brassylate 69
Galax 69
Habanolide 41
Musk ambrette 14
Musk ketone 14
Ambercore 103
Clearwood 34
Karanal 2
Ambrofix 7
Evernyl 2
Isoeugenol 2
Pyralone 2
Ethyl vanillin 1
Cashmeran 2
Heliotropin 2
Coumarin 2
Bergamot 69
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Mike, since you asked me on FB about your formula, following my Complexity post,
I will respond here and there both.

"Since you have posted your "complexity manifesto", I think it would be very interesting to see what you think about ways to complexify this relatively simple formula that would make it better. Things that seem obvious are to add naturals in the floral, woody, mossy, ambery directions; also to complexify the genres of aromachemicals, such as additional muguet molecules, amyl cinnamic aldehyde, amber/woody molecules, spicy molecules, quinolines, etc."

Your approach here is to start with the bones, the formula is all bones and little flesh, but for the Bergamot.
Without making it, it should smell thin, to me...
It does last well, you say, and but for the bergamot, consists of 21 molecules.
It clearly is Jasmine oriented, so my first would be to use a broad spectrum Jasmine base, like Jasmine Oliffac/Jasmine Special Oliffac / Frater's Jasmine absolute base, etc. You would not be able to simply add, you would need to formulate with broad spectrum materials from the start, though. You would need to remove some Benz Acet, HCA, Aurantiol and Lyrame, and make the Jasmine base part of that total.
Then you might pick a natural which jives best with your mind for inclusion of Coumarin, maybe Tonka Absolute.
Then pick a natural Patchouli to sub in for part or all of the Clearwood. I'd also look to broaden the Amber base with some other molecules or an amber base of some type that doesn't duplicate what you have, or subs in for part of what you have would add complexity.

Your topnote consists almost entirely of Benz Acet and Bergamot.
So, your topnotes need broadening. You will gain more topnote molecules with the Jasmine base, though.

Adding and subbing in the Jasmine base, two naturals mentioned, and some nicely blended naturals and molecules for the topnotes, would broaden the complexity here, and also adding in another one or two LOTV could broaden the scent.
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
Mike, since you asked me on FB about your formula, following my Complexity post,
I will respond here and there both.

"Since you have posted your "complexity manifesto", I think it would be very interesting to see what you think about ways to complexify this relatively simple formula that would make it better. Things that seem obvious are to add naturals in the floral, woody, mossy, ambery directions; also to complexify the genres of aromachemicals, such as additional muguet molecules, amyl cinnamic aldehyde, amber/woody molecules, spicy molecules, quinolines, etc."

Your approach here is to start with the bones, the formula is all bones and little flesh, but for the Bergamot.
Without making it, it should smell thin, to me...
It does last well, you say, and but for the bergamot, consists of 21 molecules.
It clearly is Jasmine oriented, so my first would be to use a broad spectrum Jasmine base, like Jasmine Oliffac/Jasmine Special Oliffac / Frater's Jasmine absolute base, etc. You would not be able to simply add, you would need to formulate with broad spectrum materials from the start, though. You would need to remove some Benz Acet, HCA, Aurantiol and Lyrame, and make the Jasmine base part of that total.
Then you might pick a natural which jives best with your mind for inclusion of Coumarin, maybe Tonka Absolute.
Then pick a natural Patchouli to sub in for part or all of the Clearwood. I'd also look to broaden the Amber base with some other molecules or

Your topnote consists almost entirely of Benz Acet and Bergamot.
So, your topnotes need broadening. You will gain more topnote molecules with the Jasmine base, though.

Adding and subbing in the Jasmine base, two naturals mentioned, and some nicely blended naturals and molecules for the topnotes, would broaden the complexity here, and also adding in another one or two LOTV could broaden the scent.

Lastly, an amber base of some type that doesn't duplicate what you have, or subs in for part of what you have would add complexity.
Awesome ideas! Thanks for sharing your expert wisdom!
 

Casper_grassy

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2020
Mikey, may I suggest a little PCPA? Chypres without animalics are like bars without alcohol (I’m biased) lol. Especially alongside the Lyral it’ll fit nicely.

Also a random thought of something I do to add effect towards the isoeugenol is maybe try a dash of bay leaf if you have.

I haven’t been working much on fragrances, been crazy busy but this looks like a great foundation and you can really take this to the next level with a few additions. Pk added great info and I would agree with a civet type aroma, but if you do find yourself adding PCPA (which YOU WILL) then it may not be needed, though both do pair well.
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
Mikey, may I suggest a little PCPA? Chypres without animalics are like bars without alcohol (I’m biased) lol. Especially alongside the Lyral it’ll fit nicely.

Also a random thought of something I do to add effect towards the isoeugenol is maybe try a dash of bay leaf if you have.

I haven’t been working much on fragrances, been crazy busy but this looks like a great foundation and you can really take this to the next level with a few additions. Pk added great info and I would agree with a civet type aroma, but if you do find yourself adding PCPA (which YOU WILL) then it may not be needed, though both do pair well.
PCPA is absolutely a brilliant idea & will blow up the floral volume even more immense than it already is.
 

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