Chanel Les Exclusifs impressions

[Schubertian]

Nice thread. I've tried some of the Les Exclusifs when they first came out, and some more recently. I really like 31 Rue Cambon EDP and that may be on my buy list. I remember really liking Beige in EDT years ago, but nowadays it may be too floral for my taste.
Oddly I both like Jersey EDP (which wears and projects really well btw) and yet it feels - well - a bit matronly, if I may say so. I mean, I love the scent but at the same time I feel very mature when wearing it... nothing wrong with mature but it doesn't resonate with how I feel (I'm 50); so the jury's out on Jersey.
Other than those I 2nd Bois des Iles, it's beautiful (but a bit similar to Samsara, which I own, so... ), Le Lion (but then again I have Shalimar), and possibly La Pausa EDP, which I'm still wearing from a decant.
Given the price point and the fact I try not to accumulate too many similar perfumes* I've thus far passed on the Les Exclusifs. My favourite Chanels remain No.5 and No. 19.
*) does not apply to Mitsouko.

 

[abu abdullaah]

is the general consensus that all the parfums are the most beautiful smelling over their edp and edt counterparts or are there any where the edp or edt smell nicer?

 

[cacio]

For Chanel, in my experience the parfum is better than the lower concentrations. For Guerlains, mostly true, but it depends a lot on batches, at some point they suffered quite a bit from material restrictions and for some batches the edt might have arguably been closer to the original. I have not smelled much recent Guerlain parfums so I don't know if this is still the case.

As mentioned before, the "better" part applies for the mid and base notes (ie after 30 minutes of wearing it), not for the top (ie first 15 minutes).

cacio

 

[purecaramel]

More or less my response, as well. Within the line, I greatly preferred Jacques Polge’s work to Olivier’s, but even trying EdT samples, I didn’t find anything I would buy for myself, including the vaunted Sycomore. My wife picked out a couple, though.

I haven’t tried Le Lion or the Exclusifs reedition of Cuir de Russie. As I have both EdT and EdC vintage bottles of CdR, I figure I’m covered there. In general with Chanel, I’m happier to stick to the classics.

Vintage Cuir de Russie EDT and EDC steals my heart. In the Exclusifs the EDT and Parfum are Modern and Slick though,
while lacking the wonderful Civet stankiness!

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

is the general consensus that all the parfums are the most beautiful smelling over their edp and edt counterparts or are there any where the edp or edt smell nicer?

In Les Exclusifs, I have been happy with all concentrations. I think they are excellent and that preferring one concentration over the other is a matter of personal taste. When the edts were discontinued I segued to edp with no problem. I like having both the edp and parfum; they complement each other. Most Exclusifs I have that offer a matching parfum, I have bought it to have both. My fervent hope is that they will make a parfum for Le Lion.

 

[Diamondflame]

Congrats on the acquisition! You’re in for a real threat with Rue Cambon 31.

I absolutely LOVE this line, particularly the edt format. Even Beige won me over. And the comments have made me a little more interested to sample Le Lion. But it’s probably unfair to compare vintage versions of the classics to the current; they were made in a different era for a different audience. I guess they really had it good back then, didn’t they?

 

[Jack Hunter]

I like both the Edp and the dab on Parfum of Cuir de Russie which the latter is drier, more smoky, less floral and is more unisex. It also smells more vivid like you are smelling something in high definition.

In the first hour as it melds with your skin chemistry you can smell the most gorgeous vivid dry jasmine note. I have to it to say it's more prominent in the extrait than the Edp. Then slowly the buttery Ylang Ylang with the touch of Iris makes it's presence known. It's low key at first where in the Edp it just dominates everything.

Coromandel is very intoxicating and heady and because of that I only wear it when I'm in the mood as it can overwhelm the senses.

1957 is a clean refreshing complex light breezy scent that tantalizes your senses with it's beautiful aromas. Within this multi layed scent of different musks I get bergamot, iris, neroli, cedar and regal powdery touches sweetened by honey. When you first spray the scent upon your skin you are greeted with fresh sparkling aldehydes closely followed by orange blossom. These aldehydes do weave in and out of the scent during the course of it's evolution. But the star of the show is the musks which blend beautifully with all the other subtle notes.

All in all what I have tried from the line has been very impressive, I hope to smell Boy Chanel one of these days as that one interest's me the most from the rest of the range.

 

[GoldWineMemories]

I know as a sophisticated nose you're not suppose to say this -- a smell is a smell, and a great smell is a great smell, regardless of its tenacity -- I do so wish that Cuir de Russie parfum actually lasted longer than three hours on my skin. At over $500/oz I just need a bit more from you baby.

 

[tiberije]

After I was able to wear all 4 multiple times , I solemnly declare that Le Lion is my favorite. Adding leather to dense floral base creates magical experience and I experience this as male version of classic female fragrances from ages gone (shalimar, Chanel 5). It’s truly beautiful fragrance to savor it while day while I am wearing it

 

[PStoller]

Le Lion is my favorite. Adding leather to dense floral base creates magical experience and I experience this as male version of classic female fragrances from ages gone (shalimar, Chanel 5).

I’m not a Shalimar evangelist—it’s not my favorite Guerlain—but, based on your comments, you really should try vintage Shalimar extrait (if you haven’t). There’s enough leather in it to upholster a sectional sofa.

 

[GoldWineMemories]

I’m not a Shalimar evangelist—it’s not my favorite Guerlain—but, based on your comments, you really should try vintage Shalimar extrait (if you haven’t). There’s enough leather in it to upholster a sectional sofa.

Shalimar is just so floral though. I can smell the geranium in Le Lion, and it has nothing on Shalimar.

 

[Nastka]

I’m not a Shalimar evangelist—it’s not my favorite Guerlain—but, based on your comments, you really should try vintage Shalimar extrait (if you haven’t). There’s enough leather in it to upholster a sectional sofa.

Vintage Shalimar EdC is also surprisingly heavy on the leather, if one is after something lighter.

 

[Varanis Ridari]

Many of these are "someday" fragrances, if I ever stop chasing unicorns and cheap thrills in equal throws, then just hunker down and knock out bottles.

Maybe someday... hence the name. 🤣

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

Shalimar is just so floral though. I can smell the geranium in Le Lion, and it has nothing on Shalimar.

Le Lion has geranium? I don't smell it nor have I seen it in any Le Lion note pyramids. The Exclusif where I have smelled geranium is Boy. I used to wear a couple of geranium perfumes, Lanvin Spanish Geranium and Floris Rose Geranium but in recent years I've drifted away from the note. But a friend of mine wears Boy and it smells fantastic on her.

 

[GoldWineMemories]

Le Lion has geranium? I don't smell it nor have I seen it in any Le Lion note pyramids. The Exclusif where I have smelled geranium is Boy. I used to wear a couple of geranium perfumes, Lanvin Spanish Geranium and Floris Rose Geranium but in recent years I've drifted away from the note. But a friend of mine wears Boy and it smells fantastic on her.

I certainly smell it in the dry-down.

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

I certainly smell it in the dry-down.

Next time I wear Le Lion I will pay more attention to the development.

 

[mr. reasonable]

Le Lion is definitely in my (very near) future! Have tried it a couple of times - most recently I also sprayed on a card and the drydown was still there 2 weeks later! Glorious transition from top to mids to base.

I have original EdTs of Coromandel & Bois des Iles - both great. Also BdI Parfum - never hurts to add a bit to the EdT.

Rue Cambon 31 is a bit of a 'chypre tease'. Perfect opening but then just quietly slips away when you're not looking . . . shame oakmoss is not around the way it used to be

Wanted to like Jersey but seemed a bit 'pale' - I have lavender in other incarnations that I prefer so not a must.

 

[Ga.Peach]

No Bel Respiro fans?

 

[cheapimitation]

No Bel Respiro fans?

YES! It's my favorite one, the only one so far where I've bought the 200ml with no regrets. I've had it for half a year now but still literally curse every time I wear it again out of astonishment that it is so good.

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

No Bel Respiro fans?

I like Bel Respiro too but haven’t worn it in a while because some other Exclusifs have been clamouring more loudly for my attention. Its day in the sun will probably dawn again.

 

[Wingie]

No Bel Respiro fans?

I own and love Bel Respiro EDP, but wish it lasted a bit longer. The other two I own are 1957 and Bois des Iles.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

No Bel Respiro fans?

I'm surprised not a lot of like for Gardenia. That one was is one of the classics alongside Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles.

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

Very little mention of 1932

I wore 1932 quite a bit earlier this fall, the edt and parfum. It's a very classy predominantly jasmine floral, but a "cool" jasmine, not very indolic. It doesn't smell like N°19 but to me has a similar somewhat aloof tone to it. It's yet another winner in my book.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

I saw this packaging of Chanel Sycomore

 

[PStoller]

I'm surprised not a lot of like for Gardenia.

Dr. T. likes Gardenia. We haven’t yet tried vintage.

 

[Nom de Guerre]

I saw this packaging of Chanel Sycomore
View attachment 174117

Interesting. That is (or is a modern re-make of) the 1930's packaging:

 

[Nastka]

I have a decant of Bel Respiro (unsure if it's the EdT or EdP) and I like it, but after a few wears I conceded that it's not full bottle worthy for me.

1932 is nice, and the Parfum version is very good too. It strikes me as one of the least formal Chanel fragrances, being more closely aligned to their 'Chance' line in terms of feel.

 

[Sinkinggrade]

I blindly ordered 4 of the Chanel Exclusifs and considering that Chanel does not overproduce fragrances and is focused on quality of its offerings more then some other designer houses I did not hesitate to take a risk with my pruchase. And boy o Boy it has been awhile since I did not mess up with my blind buys and getting it right with 4 was almost impossible mission or not?

Cuir de Russe is absolute class in the bottle, high class non intrusive floral leather scent that screams sophistication. Absolute beauty and probably my favorite of all 4.

Sycomore is THE Vetiver scent, let me put it this way if you take Gray Vetiver or Encre Noir and eliminate that Obnoxious and headache inducing Super ISO E and just take the essenze of those two scents and add little bit of freshness and class you get Sycomore. For those who compare Sycomore to above mentioned 2 scents I can say they as similar as Toyota and Ferrari.

Le Lion takes Shalimar/Chanel 5 floral density and adds pure masculine leather in the mix. Impressive leather scent that has same leather accord as HdP Marquise de Sade but it is much milder and therefore more wearable then HdP masterpiece. I own Knize Ten, Bel Ami, Tuscan Leather, HdP 1740 and few others and this one definitely adds something new to my leather collection, great great scent.

Corromandel as everybody already heard it is a Patchouli scent with gourmand qualities since it has that chocolatee smell that is never sweet and heavy. Really cozy gourmand style patchouli that at the end although great for what it is, is my least favorite of all 4 since I already own 10 ultimate patchouli scents so it is hard to impress me when it comes to Patch.

Overall greatly impressed with Chanel Exclusifs and can not wait to try 31 Rue Cambon

Definitely line worth exploring

Overall, I agree with your take and your taste with the exception of Coromandel, which I deeply hate, being my favorite Le Lion, in the sense that I find this latter certainly good from start to finish, a thing I cannot say about Cuir de Russie or 31 Rue Cambon, both with slightly less interesting drydowns if one compares them with their captivating openings and beautiful mid stages.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Interesting. That is (or is a modern re-make of) the 1930's packaging:

That's a great find. I really wish there were photos available of Chanel's earlier obsolete creations.

 

[gunmetal24]

I like a bit of Jersey myself but sometimes I think it smells like Lush's Twilight which I use in the shower.

 

[pfranka]

I'm surprised not a lot of like for Gardenia. That one was is one of the classics alongside Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles.

I've had a bunch of Les Exclusifs (Coromandel EDT, Sycomore EDT, Jersey EDT/EDP, Boy) and remained meanwhile with Cuir de Russie EDP/Parfum, Jersey Parfum and Gardenia EDP which is probably my favorite. I love the unusual peppery take on Gardenia, so different from most gardenia perfumes I have/have tried which have been sweeter, thicker and heavier. Chanel Gardenia also gives me a nostalgic feeling since it was one of the first perfumes I bought when I was getting really into perfume in the early 2000's

 

[aioosha]

I'm surprised not a lot of like for Gardenia. That one was is one of the classics alongside Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles.

I tried it official sample, it was horrible for me. Shockingly it smelled of laundry soap for me, I figured I would never get that from a chanel.

 

[pfranka]

I tried it official sample, it was horrible for me. Shockingly it smelled of laundry soap for me, I figured I would never get that from a chanel.

There *is* something soapy there, but for some reason it's not the kind that bothers me. I don't generally like soapy scents. Lucky you tried it first!

 

[aioosha]

There *is* something soapy there, but for some reason it's not the kind that bothers me. I don't generally like soapy scents. Lucky you tried it first!

Yea really, I was gonna blind it too because I love gardenia in general.

Beige is more my jam, so soft, beautiful and I don't even like any of those notes lol.

 

[Ga.Peach]

Got a miniature Beige edp;so nice. Didn't like it at first.
It's gorgeous. Classic vibe to my nose.
I admit to wearing it around the house.
Just wish it were stronger concentration maybe.

 

[abu abdullaah]

tried a sample of 1932 edt and thought it was quite nice seemed a bit similar to 31 rue cambon in some ways (?). problem was, it had quite a loud opening but had become a skin scent in under about an hour. does any one no if the edp is any better in this regard?

 

[GoldWineMemories]

tried a sample of 1932 edt and thought it was quite nice seemed a bit similar to 31 rue cambon in some ways (?). problem was, it had quite a loud opening but had become a skin scent in under about an hour. does any one no if the edp is any better in this regard?

I think the EDP is quite similar to how you describe the EDT.

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

Nice thread. I've tried some of the Les Exclusifs when they first came out, and some more recently. I really like 31 Rue Cambon EDP and that may be on my buy list. I remember really liking Beige in EDT years ago, but nowadays it may be too floral for my taste.
Oddly I both like Jersey EDP (which wears and projects really well btw) and yet it feels - well - a bit matronly, if I may say so. I mean, I love the scent but at the same time I feel very mature when wearing it... nothing wrong with mature but it doesn't resonate with how I feel (I'm 50); so the jury's out on Jersey.
Other than those I 2nd Bois des Iles, it's beautiful (but a bit similar to Samsara, which I own, so... ), Le Lion (but then again I have Shalimar), and possibly La Pausa EDP, which I'm still wearing from a decant.
Given the price point and the fact I try not to accumulate too many similar perfumes* I've thus far passed on the Les Exclusifs. My favourite Chanels remain No.5 and No. 19.
*) does not apply to Mitsouko.

Something in this post struck a chord with me, namely a similarity between Bois des Îles and Samsara. BDI is one of the rare Chanels that doesn’t work on me. I like it in the bottle but when worn it goes a bit sour. Lately I bought Samsara and had the same impression as above, of that similarity, and Samsara does smell very good when I wear it. Instead of the sandalwood going sour in the drydown it gets powdery and I have been thinking of Samsara as my wearable version of Bois des Îles.

 

[Trebor]

My brief impressions of the four mentioned in the OP.

Cuir de Russe - I've always been drawn to the dark leatheriness of this one. Sadly, knowing that earlier formulations were superior, sampling is as far as I'll ever get with this one.

Sycomore - one of the best (and more natural smelling) vetiver fragrances around, but not even this compares to wearing a good quality Haitian vetiver essential oil instead.

Le Lion - I really don't get the hype for this one, as there are far superior amber offerings out there. Personally, it has two glaring flaws - firstly, it loses its initial allure with every subsequent wearing and, secondly, its Ambroxan base cheapens the entire experience. The worst of the four, IMHO.

Corromandel - basically dressed up Indian patchouli absolute. If it was cheaper and more tenacious, I'd own a bottle by now.

 

[imm0rtelle]

Recently tried 1957 and it really wasn't my cup of tea. I could sense previous Chanel fragrances within it, so that was interesting. The fizzy citrus facet feels similar to Allure Homme Sport Cologne. I also get a brief reminder of No. 5 as well. Overall, it is a very Chanel fragrance, but it made me realize I really don't like Chanel's style. I much prefer Celine's La Peau Nue over 1957.