Chanel Les Exclusifs EDP Current State

DanHD

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 15, 2013
Hello,

I was wondering if you might be able to share a couple highlights for you of the current Channel EDP Les Exclusifs line. I know that pretty much the whole set was reformulated not too long ago, and I was thinking you might have some experience by now with what you love / like / h**e about the reformulations and current state.

My current thoughts:

Coramandel: I like the EDP reformulation better than the previous EDT. The EDT had a scratchy early to mid feel that turned me off. The EDP seems to have smoothed that out and I love it.

Cuir de Russie: The EDP is too feminine in the drydown for me. I've grown to love the EDT and will probably be hunting a full bottle (yikes $$$)

Sycomore: I have a love/like relationship with the EDT. It can be an overwhelming wear sometimes and others it's blissful. I'd be curious on what the EDP is like - will have to get a sample.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
It was reformulated over five years ago. I think Coromandel is fantastic. Cuir de Russie is nice. Bois des Iles is great. Sycomore isn't my favorite. 31 Rue Cambon is still worth buying. No. 22 is wonderful. Boy is nice, but hardly worthy of being an "exclusifs" along with Jersey, Beige, 1957. The Eau de Cologne is a good cologne. Le Lion is a nice amber, but doesn't show a promising direction for Chanel imo. Too modern, linear, and not at all elegant. The others no real opinion.
 

NickZee

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2014
Best to leave the EDTs in the past. Reformulation talk is often over the top. I had tried the EDTs and only found that Sycomore lost its campfire facets that would have scared off most buyers and Cuir de Russie was pushed a nudge toward more floral notes. Again, the strong leather notes might have been too offensive for some.
 

DanHD

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 15, 2013
It was reformulated over five years ago. I think Coromandel is fantastic. Cuir de Russie is nice. Bois des Iles is great. Sycomore isn't my favorite. 31 Rue Cambon is still worth buying. No. 22 is wonderful. Boy is nice, but hardly worthy of being an "exclusifs" along with Jersey, Beige, 1957. The Eau de Cologne is a good cologne. Le Lion is a nice amber, but doesn't show a promising direction for Chanel imo. Too modern, linear, and not at all elegant. The others no real opinion.

Thanks GWM, I think I'll sample pretty much all the EDPs. I found Boy to be interesting but a lightweight in to the longrun.
 

DanHD

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 15, 2013
Best to leave the EDTs in the past. Reformulation talk is often over the top. I had tried the EDTs and only found that Sycomore lost its campfire facets that would have scared off most buyers and Cuir de Russie was pushed a nudge toward more floral notes. Again, the strong leather notes might have been too offensive for some.

Thanks Nick. I'll take a peek on EBay for the Cuir EDT and probably run for the hills [emoji383]
 
Jul 7, 2012
The current Eau De Cologne and Boy are both superb.

Eau De Cologne is a tricky one though. It doesn't have a loud opening, and there's nothing sharp or bracing about it. It's smoooooooth smooth smoooooooth. Every time I wear it, I feel like there's no way I'm wearing enough, probably because I'm used to how most scents have a huge opening compared to what follows. But without fail, a little while after spraying Chanel Eau De Cologne, I'm surprised by how it seems to bloom, and then hours later, it's still going and going. Another interesting thing about it is the fact that it seems almost impossibly light and airy, and yet, as I said, it lasts a surprisingly long time. I've never smelled anything so light and airy that isn't gone in a flash. I'm so impressed by how this one wears.
 

c0rtland

Well-known member
Dec 26, 2018
Most of the below I agree with. I love Le Lion however. It would be in my top 5 all time favorites. I would add No.18 to the list as an absolute banger as well. All about ambrette and Top 3 Favorite Chanel fragrances with Le Lion and Coromandel.
It was reformulated over five years ago. I think Coromandel is fantastic. Cuir de Russie is nice. Bois des Iles is great. Sycomore isn't my favorite. 31 Rue Cambon is still worth buying. No. 22 is wonderful. Boy is nice, but hardly worthy of being an "exclusifs" along with Jersey, Beige, 1957. The Eau de Cologne is a good cologne. Le Lion is a nice amber, but doesn't show a promising direction for Chanel imo. Too modern, linear, and not at all elegant. The others no real opinion.
 

mrcologneguy

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 2, 2009
I’m a big fan of this line. I’ll take one of everything, please.

Boy Chanel remains a favorite. I gave myself a good dousing of Bois des Iles a few nights ago, and was transported directly to fragrance heaven.

The last time I wore Coromandel EdT it seemed a little off to me. Hope not. Love that fragrance, and I’ve stored it carefully. Need to give it a big wear again soon, several full sprays, to see if it’s time to add the EdP version to my collection.

Sycomore EdT: perfect for fall weather, a walk through the park, fallen leaves, a brisk chill in the air. . . it’s hard to imagine that Sycomore wasn’t made specifically for that kind of wear.

Still getting to know Le Lion. It strikes me as best in cold weather, especially outdoors. It’s easy to go overboard with it. Just one spray for me, maybe two if I’m feeling particularly daring.

Eau de Cologne: love Chanel’s luxe take on it. I’d love it more if I was magically gifted a large bottle.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
I think they're in fine shape! The Chanel DNA takes some time to get into, but once you do there's nothing like it.

I only tried the EDT's in passing before I was a total fragrance nerd so I can't accurately compare any of them. But the EDPs taken as they are, are pretty fantastic.

It is a bit frustrating that the majority of reviews from the best bloggers/youtubers seem to be from EDT era and/or lamenting that the EDPs just suck in comparison. I guess because the EDPs were not a totally new release, a lot of the OG bloggers didn't bother to re-review them. When I was getting into the line, I found it difficult to find more current reivews about how they smell now.

I've always struggled with Cuir de Russie and do wonder if I would've liked the EDT more. But alas, there's still the pure perfume which I've heard is wonderful.

My current all time favorite is Bel Respiro. Also love No. 18, 1957 and I think Coromandel will be my next big purchase when the weather cools down.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Of the newer ones, I quite like Le Lion (smokey and dark enough) and the very retro Misia. Jersey had a strange effect on me of remining me of pear juices I drank as a kid, something though I think I am the only one to find.

Cuir de Russie and bois does isles are still good, but as you point out cuir was better. of cuir, I decided to buy the parfum. Unfortunately one cannot smell it so it is hard to say what ithe current one is. I find Sycomore exp too smooth in the base relative to the edt, so for me less good. Still good nonetheless, but less than the edt.
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
The one edp that I think is better than the previous edt version is Bois des Iles. For a bunch, it’s a tie for me, such as Coromandel. Sycomore isn’t as good in edp, based on my sampling.

31 Rue Cambon edt and edp are both good to me. I get people liking the edt more, and the same for Coromandel, and I can tell they’re different, but I like the edp versions.

Sycomore is easily the standout failure in my experience. A couple times in Chanel boutiques, I’ve pressed the sales associates to talk about what a scandal it is.
 

DanHD

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 15, 2013
Thanks folks for all the replies. Le Lion seems to have snuck by me. I'll definitely try it along with the rest of the Les Excusifs line EDPs.

I also need to try my Boy Chanel sample a couple more times. I liked it at first and then wanted more in the base. Maybe it's to do with my mood on a given day.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Scented.
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
Of the line, the ones I have not adopted are Misia, Jersey, Boy, Eau de Cologne and 1957. The rest I wear in either edt, edp, parfum or two versions and sometimes all three. Of the ones where I have tried both the edt and edp, the only one where I miss the edt is Sycomore. The edp is a very nice vetiver in its own right but does not have that smoky complexity of the edt.

For the rest, where I have worn the old and the new, I have been happy with both, and there are a couple where I think the edp is a marked improvement, namely Beige and Gardénia. For me, this whole line is top notch.
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
Of the line, the ones I have not adopted are Misia, Jersey, Boy, Eau de Cologne and 1957. The rest I wear in either edt, edp, parfum or two versions and sometimes all three.
Interesting to read which ones haven't been adopted. It sounds like Le Lion was a triumphant return to form.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Scented.
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
Interesting to read which ones haven't been adopted. It sounds like Le Lion was a triumphant return to form.

Le Lion is stunning and probably not something one might expect from Chanel as it feels a little rough around the edges, as opposed to Chanel’s legendary suave elegance. Well maybe you could say it’s elegantly rough around the edges…☺️

As for the ones I don’t wear, Jersey, Boy and 1957 don’t suit my chemistry while Eau de Cologne and Misia, I just haven’t gotten around to yet.
 

Nom de Guerre

Well-known member
Jan 2, 2020
Ignore the hype over the reformulations, the EDPs are great. I have Coromandel and Sycomore in both concentrations and wouldn't lose any sleep by owning only one concentration (let's look past my FOMO this time, OK?). At this moment, Sycomore EDP (this one has changed the most, I would call it an excellent flanker to the EDT) gets more wear than the EDT. I love how plush the EDP is.
During warmer weather, my absolute favorites are Boy and 1957 – just amazing overall with great longevity on my skin. Eau de Cologne is my next purchase come springtime.

In any case, if you want the best – go for the extraits :)
 
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rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
Ignore the hype over the reformulations, the EDPs are great. I have Coromandel and Sycomore in both concentrations and wouldn't lose any sleep by owning only one concentration (let's look past my FOMO this time, OK?). At this moment, Sycomore EDP (this one has changed the most, I would call it an excellent flanker to the EDT) gets more wear than the EDT. I love how plush the EDP is.
During warmer weather, my absolute favorites are Boy and 1957 – just amazing overall with great longevity on my skin. Eau de Cologne is my next purchase come springtime.
I had an issue with just how harsh Sycomore EdT was, so I suppose I should go out and try the EdP. I wouldn't be interested if they've turned it into a sugary doughnut with caramel syrup on top, but if the harshness has been toned down just a little bit, it's got to be worth a try.
 

Nom de Guerre

Well-known member
Jan 2, 2020
I had an issue with just how harsh Sycomore EdT was, so I suppose I should go out and try the EdP. I wouldn't be interested if they've turned it into a sugary doughnut with caramel syrup on top, but if the harshness has been toned down just a little bit, it's got to be worth a try.

There is definitely a lot less smokyness and the vetiver has been toned down. It feels like there’s a pinch of Bois des Iles added, the sandalwood comes up more prominent thus making the composition a lot plusher. Great stuff, I think you’d enjoy it.
 
Jun 10, 2012
Honestly apart from the glaring absence of Sycomore EdT, I don't think there's much to choose from between the EdTs and the EdPs. If one does side by side comparison on paper, one would find differences I guess, but not much different when it comes to wearing something and getting on with the day. Most are about the same.
Strangely I find the current Sycomore EdP to have a harsher campfire-y aspect. The EdT was a marvellous blend of aldehydes, pink pepper and vetiver with a hint of smoke. More refined than the current EdP.
 

Toxicon

Well-known member
May 29, 2021
While I can't speak to the EDT as I'm not that worldly, I love the Sycomore EDP on its own terms. It takes the core skeletal Encre Noire accord of dark vetiver/cypress and builds it into something multifaceted and deep but still extremely wearable (assuming you love vetiver). The aldehydes give it some Chanel shimmer up front, there's a hint of violet in the heart that adds character, and the base has that surprisingly good modern Chanel interpretation of creamy sandalwood, similar to what's in modern Egoiste and BdC parfum. But all that's still just window-dressing and quiet support for the deep, dank vetiver at the heart. It's not a hardcore vetiver by any means, but more of a goldilocks scent that does exactly what I want. As you'd expect from a quality EDP, a few sprays will last all day and gives reasonable "scent bubble" projection.
 
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rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
I had an issue with just how harsh Sycomore EdT was, so I suppose I should go out and try the EdP. I wouldn't be interested if they've turned it into a sugary doughnut with caramel syrup on top, but if the harshness has been toned down just a little bit, it's got to be worth a try.
There is definitely a lot less smokyness and the vetiver has been toned down. It feels like there’s a pinch of Bois des Iles added, the sandalwood comes up more prominent thus making the composition a lot plusher. Great stuff, I think you’d enjoy it.
Finally managed to put some of the EdP on skin and I am leaning more towards this one being a hash-up. Toning down the harshness is one thing, but covering it with icing sugar was not what I envisaged. Sorry but Sycomore is far from what it was…
 

Mikeaveli2682

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2018
Finally managed to put some of the EdP on skin and I am leaning more towards this one being a hash-up. Toning down the harshness is one thing, but covering it with icing sugar was not what I envisaged. Sorry but Sycomore is far from what it was…
Interesting. I’ve only experienced Sycamore EDP but detect no sugar
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
Finally managed to put some of the EdP on skin and I am leaning more towards this one being a hash-up. Toning down the harshness is one thing, but covering it with icing sugar was not what I envisaged. Sorry but Sycomore is far from what it was…
That's interesting. I too get this sugar/cookie element out of EDP Sycomore I haven't heard other people bring up.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Scented.
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
Finally managed to put some of the EdP on skin and I am leaning more towards this one being a hash-up. Toning down the harshness is one thing, but covering it with icing sugar was not what I envisaged. Sorry but Sycomore is far from what it was…

Got a yen for Sycomore edp, which I hadn’t worn for a while, and just put on a little, curious about the “icing sugar” effect and I think I get it. Right at the beginning there is an ethereal sweetness, just like a thin transparent coating of—yep—icing sugar, and I like it! This effect soon melts away making way for deeper yet not heavy woody and vetiver notes. It’s true that the edp is not what the edt was but I like it for what it is today.

The edt and the edp could easily have been two co-existing perfumes. They’re different enough and one or the other—or both—could gladly be adopted by customers.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
Got a yen for Sycomore edp, which I hadn’t worn for a while, and just put on a little, curious about the “icing sugar” effect and I think I get it. Right at the beginning there is an ethereal sweetness, just like a thin transparent coating of—yep—icing sugar, and I like it! This effect soon goes away making way for deeper yet not heavy woody and vetiver notes. It’s true that the edp is not what the edt was but I like it for what it is today.

The edt and the edp could easily have been two co-existing perfumes. They’re different enough and one or the other—or both—could gladly be adopted by customers.
I think this sweet effect is why I interpreted the current EDP as having this chocolate chip cookie like aspect to it.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Hello,

I was wondering if you might be able to share a couple highlights for you of the current Channel EDP Les Exclusifs line. I know that pretty much the whole set was reformulated not too long ago, and I was thinking you might have some experience by now with what you love / like / h**e about the reformulations and current state.

My current thoughts:

Coramandel: I like the EDP reformulation better than the previous EDT. The EDT had a scratchy early to mid feel that turned me off. The EDP seems to have smoothed that out and I love it.

Cuir de Russie: The EDP is too feminine in the drydown for me. I've grown to love the EDT and will probably be hunting a full bottle (yikes $$$)

Sycomore: I have a love/like relationship with the EDT. It can be an overwhelming wear sometimes and others it's blissful. I'd be curious on what the EDP is like - will have to get a sample.
I only have experience with the current EDPs. Of those 3:
Coromandel: cloying sweet. Nope.
Cuir de Russie: very nice on a wwoman
Sycomore: I'm a lover of vetiver and green fragrance but find Sycomore EDP to be harsh and annoying at some point. A good one, but not for me. I don;t get any sweetness out of it.
 

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