Chanel Cuir de Russie Parfum, EDT, or Both | Basenotes

Chanel Cuir de Russie Parfum, EDT, or Both

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Hello everyone, I've spent the past two days reading all the posts I could find here re Chanel's Cuir de Russie (Les Exclusifs formulations). Many people prefer the EDT for its clear distinctive notes, while others find the parfum preferable due to its smooth, rounded blend.

I'm wondering which concentration would prove most satisfying as an entry point: the more assertive EDT, or the subtler parfum. I wrote to Chanel, and they recommended the parfum owing to its strength, but of course that is not the only - or even the most important - consideration in purchasing fragrance.

The closest city where I could sample Cuir de Russie is five hours away, so this would be a blind buy - but I love leathers and the aldeydic characteristics of Chanel perfumes, so I don't think either choice would represent a huge risk.

I know my psychological makeup, I'll probably end up getting both. But as a place to start, I'd like to hear Basenote members' views on which version seems to express the Cuir de Russie "ethos" in the most accessible way. It's been awhile since this topic was addressed, and I'd like to hear members' current views on the subject. Thank you!
 

gandhajala

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2010
My favourite fragrance.
Scent-wise, the EdT and Parfum are close enough that I can't imagine someone liking one and not the other.
Compared to the vintage formulation, which was a butch leather affair over a an ambery-sandalwood base recalling vintage No.5, the current stuff is much softer, more floral, with a prominent ylang note.
If you were in the UK, I'd happily send you samples to try, but alas, postal regs...
I'm not really an advocate of blind buys, so I'd suggest purchasing a sample at least of the EdT. If you really fall for it, and would want an even richer experience, then you could purchase the parfum.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Thank you, gandhajala. I have poor impulse control when it comes to fragrance, but what you say makes sense and I'm glad to hear that the EDT and parfum are true to each other in their main outlines.
 

kumquat

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 31, 2006
I agree with Gandhajala- if you like the EDT, you'll swoon for the parfum. The parfum is best of course, IMO, it just usually is unless it's too strong but in this case it's just super creamy. It's a luxury.
 

badarun

Well-known member
Jan 15, 2013
Projection / longevity wise - EDT is very good, parfum will last slightly longer, but edt is what I prefer & own with this one...
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
I like the edt more. Both would be ideal. Decant shops sell spray vials of the edt.

This may emerge as my favorite from Les Exclusifs.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Thank you for your replies, badarun and Bavard. I've decided to order a decant from The Perfumed Court, and if I like it I'll order both the parfum and the EDT from Chanel. By the time the decant arrives (September, probably), my perfume budget will look better - on paper, anyway ;).
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
I ended up buying the parfum. As others were saying, the parfum is smoother and richer. Not too strong, more of a cozy, enveloping skin scent. The iris is particularly noticeable in the parfum. But the edt is worthy too. And yes, if you like the Chanel style, this should be low risk.

I had the chance to smell vintage CdR parfum at the osmotheque. As others were saying, the vintage one has more leather (especially birch tar). But the current parfum is very close. Even back then, this was always a smooth leather, not a butcher one (like Tabac Blond, where the ibq and birch tar are much more noticeable). Of course, in all of this I'm assuming that the current batch of CdR smells the same as what I bought 3 years ago. probably a reasonable assumption, but one never knows these days.

Recently, Dior came up with their version of smooth leather, Cuir cannage; good and worthy, but CdR still has the edge to me. I also had the chance to smell vintage Kobako, which turns out to be CdR with a hefty dose of cinnamon. (apparently the more recent stuff that circulates under this name is nothing of the sort).

cacio
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Oh, cacio, how I'd love to visit the Osmotheque! That's on my bucket list. If you smelled vintage CdR there, you've smelled the best and I'm glad to hear that you find the current version (at least as of 3 years ago) a close approximation. I appreciate your information about Dior's recent leather and vintage Kobako, as well. I have yet to smell Tabac Blond, either vintage or current, but I'm so drawn to Chanel.
 

BoyChanel

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2014
I own both but vastly prefer the EDT to the parfum. My 200ml Exclusifs version is from early 2008 & it's a wonder. The parfum is too soft for me.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I appreciate your input, BoyChanel. My plan now is to purchase a 1.5ml decant of the EDT, which will only cost about $6 at The Perfumed Court. If I love it, I'll probably buy both the EDT and parfum - maybe not both at once, but then again...
 

Zephyr1973

Well-known member
Jan 10, 2015
I have the EDT, and have owned the vintage parfum, but becuase it was vintage, I think the top notes may have gone missing, therefore, I hope to test the current version soon :)

It is very beautiful...cannot imagine my life without it :)
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I have the EDT, and have owned the vintage parfum, but becuase it was vintage, I think the top notes may have gone missing
Yes, I can relate. With vintage purchases, I'm always wistful about what might have been lost. Glad to know you like the EDT, I'm really looking forward to receiving the decant.
 

BoyChanel

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2014
I appreciate your input, BoyChanel. My plan now is to purchase a 1.5ml decant of the EDT, which will only cost about $6 at The Perfumed Court. If I love it, I'll probably buy both the EDT and parfum - maybe not both at once, but then again...

Anytime. The EDT certainly performs far better on me compared to the parfum.
 

Xscent

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2013
In the case of Cuir de Russie I would always say both. I have an enormous soft spot for this fragrance, it is one of my most worn. I doubt you would regret purchasing either one. I tend to find I use the EdT more frequently.
 

donna255

Well-known member
Jul 16, 2004
I own the parfum bought around 2004 or 2005, gorgeous gorgeous. Smooth elegant. I once read it described as the inside of a vintage Rolls Royce leather interior.

Funny I have been thinking of buy the edt exclusif but worried I would be disappointed.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Xscent and donna255, thank you for your replies - I'm really glad to hear that you both love the perfume and that Xscent likes the EDT so much, as well. I'll almost certainly get both, it's just a question of when…I'm inclined to skip the decant and go straight to Chanel! :)
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Update: No sooner did my decant arrive, than I was on the horn to Chanel ordering both the EDT and parfum - by expedited delivery :). This is the most elegant, beautiful leather! I doubt I'll ever be without either concentration, each is a masterpiece. I feel like a postulant in the priory: I'm not worthy! I'm not worthy!

Thank you to everyone for your input.
 

Xscent

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2013
Update: No sooner did my decant arrive, than I was on the horn to Chanel ordering both the EDT and parfum - by expedited delivery :). This is the most elegant, beautiful leather! I doubt I'll ever be without either concentration, each is a masterpiece. I feel like a postulant in the priory: I'm not worthy! I'm not worthy!

Thank you to everyone for your input.

Wonderful news. I've hoarded a lifetime supply so I understand completely. Enjoy and you are most certainly worthy.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Thank you! :D

I think I'm going to start hoarding it, too - with the increased restrictions that are coming down the pike, sooner or later it will not be the same creature.
 

lanvinelle

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2006
Hello Bonnette!

I am wearing the Cuir de Russie parfum today and it is drop dead gorgeous. You will love it for sure. I have a few backup bottles of the parfum as I do not ever want to run out of this one. I own the Edt also but I prefer the parfum because it is more rounded and richer to me. The Edt I often wear to work but for pure enjoyment I prefer the parfum with its smoothness.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Hello lanvinelle! Like you, I'm loving the parfum and agree that it is round and rich. Yes, it's pure pleasure. I think the EDT is sharp, clear and radiant yet still a perfect blend - if it is rustling silk, the parfum is velvet. Hoarding is definitely in order!
 

BoyChanel

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2014
People here are so hung up on the "vintage vs current" nonsense. All things change with time but it's safe to say, regardless of version, Cuir de Russie is a wonder and a beauty no matter what.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
People here are so hung up on the "vintage vs current" nonsense. All things change with time but it's safe to say, regardless of version, Cuir de Russie is a wonder and a beauty no matter what.
Amen to that, it is indeed a wonder and beauty! Every time I wear it, I'm struck by how elegant and refined it is, every note exquisitely balanced. To me, it's perfection.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Hi purecaramel, I am so glad I got both the EDT and parfum! I wear Knize Ten more often, because it works so well with my overall lifestyle - but CdR is in a realm of its own. I absolutely love it.
 

Eos

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2011
Update: No sooner did my decant arrive, than I was on the horn to Chanel ordering both the EDT and parfum - by expedited delivery :). This is the most elegant, beautiful leather! I doubt I'll ever be without either concentration, each is a masterpiece. I feel like a postulant in the priory: I'm not worthy! I'm not worthy!

Thank you to everyone for your input.

Oh, wonderful choice! :) Have you considered layering? I usually wear my Bois des Iles parfum and EDT layered and have also done so with Cuir de Russie--I think this method of wear amps up the plushness of both scents.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Hi Eos. I do like to layer EDT/EDP with parfum, but haven't done so yet with Cuir de Russie - not sure why - but I certainly will!
 

Dunedain

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2016
How does the EdP compare to the EdT? There was talk of it being just a relabeling (because maybe it already had enough concentration to qualify as an EdP) with a price increase to go with the relabeling, but is that really the case? Does everything said about the EdT hold true for the EdP, or are they a bit different?
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
How does the EdP compare to the EdT? There was talk of it being just a relabeling (because maybe it already had enough concentration to qualify as an EdP) with a price increase to go with the relabeling, but is that really the case? Does everything said about the EdT hold true for the EdP, or are they a bit different?

They're a bit different. The leather gets glossier as you go up in concentration.
 

Dunedain

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2016
Thanks for the feedback. =) So, it sounds like the EdP is even a little closer to the Parfum in scent nuances than the EdT was.
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
Thanks for the feedback. =) So, it sounds like the EdP is even a little closer to the Parfum in scent nuances than the EdT was.

I think so. And the Les Exclusifs edt was more like the vintage edt, with almost a hint of civet.
 

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