Chanel Antaeus; the fallen Glory - The bygone of an exquisite era, call for action

Gruppo63

Member
Sep 13, 2018
When i was a youngster i had a little game played with my mother. Grown up in a small village, i was returning everyday from school on foot back to home. 30 meters before i entered the front door i almost knew what our mother was cooking for lunch, without knowing it beforehand. So as soon as i opened the door instead of "hello" i was calling the name of the dish, according to the smell i caught before entering the house. My mother replied "but how did you know?" and 99% my "guess" was correct.

To keep it short, i correlate everything in my life with smell. I could spot a specific persons' cloth through a pile of different ones. But i am not a fragrance expert.

So i get a little confused (or upset maybe??) when i get an email reply by the house of Chanel that "Our smell could change through years affected by biological changes, taking medicines, diet, body hydration or surroundings, or fragrance saturation of the same smell ", when i complained about the current version of Antaeus.

I know that tons of discussion are made for reformulations, vintage vs today etc with arguments from both sides. In the 80s i was a kiddo, in 90s a teenager and after 2000 i met Antaeus. Didn't know anything about the industry just i smelled the thing and became my sig.

Just after 2011 the bottle changed from a silver spayer to a black one. i noticed it when i received a new bottle sprayed some as usual and i didn't like the smell at all. Returned it back to the seller almost accusing them that the item was a knockoff. Got a replacement and then the same dissapointment. So i started googling and read lots of stuff about IFRA regulation etc.

So by doing various applications and testing i can say that current version, even with 20 sprays on one wear can't give the longevity, the zest, the warmth and the aura of 3 sprays of older Antaeus. And i don't mean vintage, just the one with the silver sprayer. It's a shadow of its past, semi-synthetic and weak.

Lately just by luck i managed to get a genuine sealed vintage splash bottle of Antaeus. Tried it and guess what? It's a monster even after so many years! (despite my SAME "diet, body hydration, surroundings etc" - well Chanel i am not mad just have a nice nose...)
It's like the xxxxing castor took a pee in the bottle! I smell castoreum, smoke, leather, and beeswax that gave Antaeus it's fame (top notes are a bit faded but it's expected).

So i wonder why IFRA is cutting it's own legs by replacing natural ingredients with synthetic "headache giver" ingredients. I don't support at all the argument that is done for cost saving. Coming to safety reasons, is what? Allergens? So? People get allergic to everything but the food industry couldn't care less. What is the actual percentage of people that had an adverse reaction to a fragrance to take such a decision? Even the salespeople admit that current fragrances are "twisted". Not at first but when they see an experienced and informed client can't do otherwise.

I don't expect a vintage era to return, but for sure if the industry wants they can supply a natural quality product.

PS: watch out your diet and medicines guys, they might alter your smell !

antaeus2.jpgantaeus 3.jpg
 

Bavard

Wearing Perfume Right Now
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jul 20, 2015
The new version is definitely different, but I still like it. Not as much as the older version, though, which I agree is great.
 

warthog

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2018
Although this isn't one of their worst reformulations, it's probably true that the composition has been altered for good. The problem with several reformulations of fragrances of the 1970-1980 era (e.g. Lapidus Pour Homme, Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme, Versace L'Homme, Antaeus), is that, to my nose, they seem to have a sort of "fuzzy" quality, as if certain notes had been replaced by some sort of odorless molecules, resulting in the general smell of the fragrance being similar to the original, but its soul not being there. I'm probably not describing this phenomenon accurately, but I'm getting this sense every time.
 

Lysander London

Well-known member
Dec 2, 2015
I agree with your observations on Antaeus; it’s not a patch on the vintage/ older versions. But really good post on the IFRA intervention. A lot of great fragrances aren’t what they used to be and, with IFRA, probably never will be what they used to be.
 

epapsiou

Always be smelling
Basenotes Plus
Sep 28, 2015
I agree with you OP. Antaeus is not the same. Almost all the current fragrances are shadow of former self.
That is why we have a vintage forum here :)
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
I bought a brand new one from Neiman Marcus for my birthday in September. All black cap, but the sprayer button itself is silver. So now you have me thinking it might be new old stock (not deep vintage, just not recent), because it is -close- to my deep vintage sample, but a tad more polite. Or I have some new-new re-re-formulation where they improved some things. Most recent Égoïste returned to the older bottle style with the smaller cap, and is actually better than 2000's Égoïste in the taller cap bottle, so maybe that's my case with Antaeus?

Regardless of what verison my Antaeus is, it definitely isn't a 20 spray job weaksauce batch. I'd have returned it if I had the experience you did. So sorry to hear that. Must have felt like buying a bootleg by accident.
 

AceyMan

wearing dad's aftershave™
Basenotes Plus
Mar 3, 2007
[...] they seem to have a sort of "fuzzy" quality, as if certain notes had been replaced by some sort of odorless molecules, resulting in the general smell of the fragrance being similar to the original, but its soul not being there. I'm probably not describing this phenomenon accurately, but I'm getting this sense every time.

This fits my description of oakmoss being a "dusty suede" part of a composition.

When it's absent, one loses that fuzzy, smeared quality which causes the perfume to feel "watercolor" — it becomes too clinical, too precise — more like a draftsman's drawing, not a work of art.

(I don't know how much Antaeus relied on moss, but that made me think to describe how I feel about things.)

/Acey
 
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Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
I bought a brand new one from Neiman Marcus for my birthday in September. All black cap, but the sprayer button itself is silver. So now you have me thinking it might be new old stock (not deep vintage, just not recent), because it is -close- to my deep vintage sample, but a tad more polite. Or I have some new-new re-re-formulation where they improved some things. Most recent Égoïste returned to the older bottle style with the smaller cap, and is actually better than 2000's Égoïste in the taller cap bottle, so maybe that's my case with Antaeus?

Regardless of what verison my Antaeus is, it definitely isn't a 20 spray job weaksauce batch. I'd have returned it if I had the experience you did. So sorry to hear that. Must have felt like buying a bootleg by accident.

Update: with Acey's help I identified it as an early 2000's bottle, which means it's been sitting in this Neiman's unsold for a very long time. Makes sense, as Bellevue is full of new money and STEM techie millionaires. They all wear Creed, Parfums de Marley, LeLabo, and designers like Sauvage, Terre d'Hermès, or Bleu de Chanel, so anything in this style would be sitting getting dusty. I guess I haven't actually smelled modern yet in that case.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Zealot crusader

what a stroke of luck with your Antaeus find!
enjoy.

Oakmoss is always a big hole in a composition, without it, longevity and power suffer.

cacio
 

Gruppo63

Member
Sep 13, 2018
Well 20 sprays is overwhelming for some few minutes but i tried it (more than once) to check if this help with longevity but no luck.
I buy only from authorised resellers so it wasn't a knockoff but a pure modern syntho lab item.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Run Zealot run! Go get that stock.

Thank you for sharing your experience.

Now I know why everyone was tilting their head at me when I said vintage and modern were pretty close (the deep vintage sample is still skankier).
Although now that I've exposed it, I'm sure some local BNer with deeper pockets than me is gonna read the thread and swoop in to clear them out.
 

Marand75

Heaven's made of Oakmoss!
Basenotes Plus
Feb 9, 2018
Although now that I've exposed it, I'm sure some local BNer with deeper pockets than me is gonna read the thread and swoop in to clear them out.

Don't they always? And then post a pic of them (with 20 more bottles of the excact same juice coincidentally displayed in the background LOL).


Sent from my foil-hat using Tapatalk
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Don't they always? And then post a pic of them (with 20 more bottles of the excact same juice coincidentally displayed in the background LOL).


Sent from my foil-hat using Tapatalk

I'm beginning to think Vintage forum is where clinical hoarders come to hide from intervention. Well, at least I can raid their estate sales when they kick the bucket like Goosey Guy. We're not Pharoahs, can't take it with you.
 

Oviatt

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 30, 2007
I am working my way through a vintage splash like the one you have and it is fantastic. That said, the newest version smelled pretty good to me when I last smelled it. I was all set to buy a bottle when my wife took it out of my hand, put it back on the counter and told me that I have too much cologne as it is. She isn't wrong......
 

AceyMan

wearing dad's aftershave™
Basenotes Plus
Mar 3, 2007
Oviatt said:
I was all set to buy a bottle when my wife took it out of my hand, put it back on the counter and told me that I have too much cologne as it is.

You *did *show her the CHANEL label, right? That should be a free pass in my book.

/Acey

Worth noting, however: wife + shopping = tactical fail — seems you'd made your own trap on that one, my good man.

Better luck next time <grin>.
 

epapsiou

Always be smelling
Basenotes Plus
Sep 28, 2015
Now I know why everyone was tilting their head at me when I said vintage and modern were pretty close (the deep vintage sample is still skankier).

You can now get your Vintage Fragrance Club membership card back ;)

Although now that I've exposed it, I'm sure some local BNer with deeper pockets than me is gonna read the thread and swoop in to clear them out.

I have not seen it happen a lot in vintage world. This is mostly limited to discontinuation rumors, "Aventus batch" type fragrances or the newer Niche lines like Slumberhouse, ALD.
A good example is Adidas Original that Marand75 brought to everyone's attention and Brasile Uomo Forte that Dmitrios did.
They got a whole lot of "press" here on our vintage forum. Many of us bought them and then posted about it in "Vintage fragrance I bought" thread. The price has not budged.

I am sure it happens but not as much as you fear.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
You can now get your Vintage Fragrance Club membership card back ;)



I have not seen it happen a lot in vintage world. This is mostly limited to discontinuation rumors, "Aventus batch" type fragrances or the newer Niche lines like Slumberhouse, ALD.
A good example is Adidas Original that Marand75 brought to everyone's attention and Brasile Uomo Forte that Dmitrios did.
They got a whole lot of "press" here on our vintage forum. Many of us bought them and then posted about it in "Vintage fragrance I bought" thread. The price has not budged.

I am sure it happens but not as much as you fear.

Well I meant moreso that somebody would raid the Neimans for whatevervintage NOS they are sitting on. There was just the one dusty bottle of Antaeus. I feel no danger from them marking up remaining inventory. Retailers don't abide by speculative market value if they want to keep their doors open, although apparently perfumers like Creed Lutens do with the raising of their MSRPs, regardless of remaining inventory!!

Also, I wasn't aware I was ever invited to any clubs to begin with. I've always been a party crasher.

PS: they had a Lauder for Men in a box too. Wonder how old that is? Nobody buys anything but Ambroxan du Jour out here.
 

morrison74

Well-known member
Jan 14, 2010
I agree with those who feel that Antaeus is significantly better in vintage form. But I also agree with those who still rate the current version as a good fragrance though.

PS: they had a Lauder for Men in a box too. Wonder how old that is?

An absolute stunner in vintage form.
 
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Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Update: smelled the newest "black button sprayer" version and I agree, it's a lot different than both mine and the deep vintage I have. I really f*****g lucked out at that Neiman Marcus. Holy Shiatsu Massage Batman!
 

My two scents

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2016
I am with Hednic on this. I love all versions of Antaeus and actually lean toward liking the newer version best. Well maybe the one before the very last reform.

Edit: although I only have I think 3 different formulations I have sampled several as I just started to get into exploring the vintage frags and how they have changed over the years.
 

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