Carnation Soliflore—Please Help!

khanada

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2020
I am currently obsessed with carnations. I’m even wearing MAC’s carnation pink lipstick. I also grow them.

I am desperately questing, for a true carnation scent, and it is not easy. I own and love Bellodgia (I have vintage PDT) but I want something new and different. I know IFRA has restricted clove, which has made carnation accords hard to create, so I am willing to look for and pay for vintage if that is what it must be. I just tried Oriza L Legrand’s very pretty carnation, but I think I want something spicier, I have a couple of other samples on hand (Prada’s Infusion), and I own Robert Greco’s Oeillieres, which is not really the bright big spicy bouquet I’m craving at the moment. I hear Ava Luxe’s used to be good, too. And there is a classic Russian perfumes that is all over Fragrabtica, but I don’t know if it isn’t worth chasing down.

So, I please need some suggestions. I read somewhere that there is a L’Air du Temps Crepescule flanker that is worth trying. I wish I could find the old Merry Chess, and the wonderful Fragonars that is now discontinued. I don’t like current Vitriol d’Oeillet—I think IFRA made them change it—so I have come here hat in hand to beg for help. I don’t want to cross post this over on the guys’ side, so could someone Ping the guys there, since carnation used to be quite popular in men’s scents? I’m desperate. Can you guys help me? Thank you :cheesy:
 

Shycat

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 18, 2005
Italian= garofano, French= oeillet, English= dianthus. A carnation is in the dianthus family, and it is the flower with a fresh, spicy scent.

L'Air du Temps gets some play as a carnation scent but it's more a dirty white floral chypre--at least the vintage is. I thought I had a new bottle of it but all I can find is vintage minis and frankly it seems to be making me a little dizzy and nauseous at this very second.

Excuse me while I go scrub. Not that I don't like L'Air du Temps, but apparently I'm fond of modern formulations or at any rate, not so early in the morning.

If you really want some vintage Mary Chess Carnation, zip on over to Ebay where there is a vintage estate bottle going for $21.99 plus shipping. I can't guess how it will stand up to it's age but there you go, if you wish.

My carnation duel was between Nicholai's Sacre Bleu and Villoresi's Garafano. They are quite similar and I ended up with Sacre Bleu because LV ships out of Italy and was more expensive for no more value to me. They are both sweetish and carry some powder in the dry down.

Molinard makes L'Oeillet that's listed as a soliflore. I never tried it. https://www.basenotes.net/ID26129500.html

DSH makes some good soliflore-esque scents if you wish to explore her takes on it. https://www.basenotes.net/ID26123089.html
 

khanada

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2020
Hello all—

Thank you for all the answers and ideas!!

N Cal, I believe CDG has discontinued Carnation from the library series, or at least I can’t find it at retail anywhere here in the US. I suspect IFRA but don’t know for sure. It would have been my first choice, because those perfumes are generally so focused on verisimilitude. Maybe there is some out there second hand.

BTW, I am wearing Oriza L Legrand’s Oeillet Louis numberwhatever again, and I like it more than I did yesterday. It’s more on the fresh and lively and powdery side than the spicy/funky side. It also has lipstick and cosmetic iris—really nice, and I like, it but I don’t know if it’s the one. I don’t own anything from this house—I have long desired to, but I get distracted, and also haven’t found anything without which I cannot live, aside from Reve d’Ossian. It’s more like an updated vintage floral than a carnation, per se.

Shycat, I really love Sacrebleu, but I remember it’s having violets and myrrh. Maybe my memory is wrong. Santa Maria Novella’s Garafano is definitely on the list to try. Their retailers can be weird about supplying samples, something to do with the brand training, I suspect. Thank you for the tip on the Mary Chess. 21.99 is not too much for an experiment. I should go do some more research. I’m not so much interested in L’Air du Temps per se—I just did a note search on Fragrantica and that one flanker appeared.
 

Shycat

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 18, 2005
They also taste kind of interesting. I used to eat them when I was a little kid.

You were an early bloomer then, foodie-wise.

...................................................

Khanada, I don't get so much violet from it (Sacrebleu) but it's not a soliflore. I think I assign fragrances a spot in my head that can be at odds with reality. How I think of it depends on what other things I was trying at the time and what I had to compare it to, at the time. Everything in my head needs a point of reference. If it has more carnation than anything else in my wardrobe then I think "Hey. That's my carnation scent."

It's like that with colors in my head, too. I just recently learned that the warm pink I've always liked and thought of as "the kind of pink I like" is actually coral.

My sister called it orange. That's how I found out. I am 58 years old.:tongue:



ETA: Dammit. I just found out Sacrebleu is discontinued. Nobody tell me anything else. The less I know the better.
 
Jul 20, 2006
Bellodgia by Caron has been a lovely carnation perfume - not quite sure about the reformulation. I bought a bottle in 2003, which was perfect.
 

khanada

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2020
Hello guys—

Thanks, again, for all the updates/suggestions!! I went ahead, and got that bottle of Mary Chess, as 21 dollars for about 3 ounces is not too much, for a shot in the dark. The seller had some other interesting vintage items, and the bottle is opaque, which I find helps protect vintages of unknown provenance. Sacrebleu is discontinued because most of the classic Nicolais have been remodeled as “Intense” versions, and most of them still smell wonderful—she did that a while back to conform with IFRA protocol, so the changes have largely been made to things like Odalisque, which used to have a lot of oakmoss. I have been meaning to add Sacrebleu to the collection anyway, so I just did it—I needed a little floral refresh before summer hit, and I love everything she does, with one or two minor exceptions. I also love her 30ml bottles. I don’t need 200mls of anything anymore.

And, shoot, silly me!! I just totally forgot about Etro’s Dianthus!! Etro is another house I love, and eventually want to have more or less completely represented in my collection. I knew there was something obvious out there, and couldn’t put my finger on it, which was why I posted this in the first place. Thank you!!! :kiss:

I know vintage L’Air du Temps well. It seemed like half the women I knew, growing up, wore it. I think it must be a Southern Lady thing. Vintage Equipage, I haven’t smelled yet, that I am aware of.

I have a nice amount of vintage Bellodgia Parfum de Toilette, in one of those weird old aerosol bottles (I have some No 22 EDC in the same). It’s great, albeit a little off on the top notes, but it settles down after about an hour, and it smells great. I plan to eventually add some pre IFRA Extrait, eventually.
 

khanada

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2020
For the scent of opening a florist's refrigerator containing carnations: Demeter Wet Garden.

Hello Q,

I almost forgot to ask you about this!! I love many of Demeter’s scents, but I find that they last, maybe, 15-30 seconds, or maybe a little more—but still not much. Would you say that Wet Garden does the same? Because, it does sound lovely :)
 

Quarry

Doing the BN salute
Basenotes Plus
Aug 9, 2005
Hello Q,

I almost forgot to ask you about this!! I love many of Demeter’s scents, but I find that they last, maybe, 15-30 seconds, or maybe a little more—but still not much. Would you say that Wet Garden does the same? Because, it does sound lovely :)
It doesn't last very long on skin. We prefer it as a room scent and spray it on this tassel thing (a souvenir of our BN NOLA meet-up) that dangles from one of our ceiling fans.
 

khanada

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2020
It doesn't last very long on skin. We prefer it as a room scent and spray it on this tassel thing (a souvenir of our BN NOLA meet-up) that dangles from one of our ceiling fans.

I love the fresh florist shop accord! There’s something so cheering, about bringing the outdoors inside :)
 

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