Can You Guess This Recent Perfume? Free Formula Included

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
I recently analysed a very current and highly regarded fragrance and prepared a reconstruction formula which I think is extremely true to the real fragrance. I incorporated my own bases where actual bases were apparent in the GCMS and the end result is a really great fragrance. I think it is fascinating that it illustrates how a luxurious modern fragrance can be created using great bases to provide the signature - all without a reliance on Iso E Super, galaxolide or Ambrox.

Attached to this is the complete formula which, due to trademark laws, cannot be named directly. So I figured that while this formula could serve as an educational guide for many, it might also be fun to turn it into a guessing game.

The question is: can you name the perfume in this formula?
 

Attachments

  • guess.pdf
    613.9 KB · Views: 355

steventeddy

Basenotes Member
Jul 18, 2021
My wild guess is Coco Mademoiselle, from how the listed "notes" kind of correspond with some of the bases/materials used.
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
Hahahah! I'm trying to imagine what has so much ev... I guess I might have to mix it up, as it is possible that soooo much ev is ending up not smelling like pure vanilla scent, but is desensitizing its own perception...
The bergamot and particularly the rose base (which is a rose otto replica) really helps a lot. It's a very classical amber style.
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
Two people picked it right as Le Lion from Chanel's exclusif line and others could sense the Chanel vibe. The big surprise is the large amount of ethyl vanillin which is more common in old school perfumes. Given the other things this perfumer has made for Chanel, I feel like this is his first great success. The others have all been uninteresting and modernist. I was rather disappointed. But on a recent trip to Auckland to train some retail staff in my perfumes I went to the Chanel Boutique and smelled this one. It's the first Exclusif I would consider buying from Chanel in years.

It seems the vanilla should overpower, but the sharpness of the bergamot and the rose base (which is a rose otto replacer type base) really balances well. This is a delightful amber which not-surprisingly many have compared to Samsara though in my opinion Samsara is still vastly superior in its original form - maybe due to the use of classical amber bases.
 

PeeWee678

Super Member
Jan 7, 2022
Thanks for the formula! Just made a small amount and I already love it despite the fact that I had to use different bases. I used:
  • Dorinia SA E (probably not the most complex rose). Haven't tried Rose Givco yet... Maybe use them both 50/50 for some added complexity?
  • Jasmophore
  • Linalool; I don't have Rosewood and my Ho leaf oil is low quality (planning on replacing part of the Linalool though with some coranol and a bit of coriander oil)
  • Dreamwood base (for the Sandexol base)
  • Polysantol (for the Sandalwood oil, no real Sandalwood in my collection); could also have used Javanol for an extended drydown...
  • PCW's Tuberose base. This may be a bit on the weak side? Not sure about it...
  • Iris concrete synth (Fir) (thinking of adding a tiny amount of Alpha Irone)
  • I also had to replace Muscone and Civettone by Exaltone. Thinking of using some Silvanone Supra and maybe some Shangralide...
I really like the contrast and the tension between the Ethyl vanilline and Rose vs. the Guaiacwood.
Tips and/or tricks are welcome ;)
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
Thanks for the formula! Just made a small amount and I already love it despite the fact that I had to use different bases. I used:
  • Dorinia SA E (probably not the most complex rose)
  • Jasmophore
  • Linalool; I don't have Rosewood and my Ho leaf oil is low quality (planning on replacing part of the Linalool though with some coranol and a bit of coriander oil)
  • Dreamwood (for the Sandexol base)
  • Polysantol (for the Sandalwood oil, no real Sandalwood in my collection)
  • PCW's Tuberose base. This may be a bit on the weak side? Not sure about it...
  • Iris concrete synth (Fir) (thinking of adding a tiny amount of Alpha Irone)
  • I also had to replace Muscone and Civettone by Exaltone. Thinking of using some Silvanone Supra and maybe some Shangralide...
I really like the contrast and the tension between the Ethyl vanilline and Rose vs. the Guaiacwood.
Tips and/or tricks are welcome ;)
Nice substitutions! You'll get more power out of the rose because of the 3% pure damascone beta in Dorinia - Le Lion has no rose ketones. But to be honest beta damascone can only ever make things better right? :)

Jasmophore is a nice substitute though if I used that I'd add some real jasmine absolute to boost it. The Jasmin Imperial base is closer to Firmenich's old Jasmin 74 (though Jasmin Imperial is VASTLY better and contains more than 5% pure ylang and jasmine extracts amongst other things). Jasmophore is like a more lactonic version of my Jasmin Fleurs.

Dreamwood + polysantol: nice choices for sure.

Tuberose: It's a light nuancer so you'd be fine with any of the really good tuberose bases you like. Tubereuse by Firmenich would be good too - it is useful at small amounts.

Iris: the irone is high so you probably would't harm it with a little Alpha irone.

Silvanone would be good - I'm not as sure about the shangralide - real civet would be wonderful in this.
 

rococo

Basenotes Member
Jan 1, 2010
Just made some up with my own substitutions: Dreamwood, Biolandes orris butter artessence + some extra alpha irone, mix of Dorinia and the "Rose 50" Appel base for the rose, Firmenich tuberose, heliotropex, jasmine absolute instead of any base as I don't have a good Jasmine base. And used muscone, shangralide, a bit of cosmone, and a tiny squidge of musk ketone for musks.

How lovely. I don't have Le Lion, but sampled & loved it, and this certainly fits with what I remember. I will be diluting and wearing this tomorrow! Thank you for sharing -- very inspiring.
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
Just made some up with my own substitutions: Dreamwood, Biolandes orris butter artessence + some extra alpha irone, mix of Dorinia and the "Rose 50" Appel base for the rose, Firmenich tuberose, heliotropex, jasmine absolute instead of any base as I don't have a good Jasmine base. And used muscone, shangralide, a bit of cosmone, and a tiny squidge of musk ketone for musks.

How lovely. I don't have Le Lion, but sampled & loved it, and this certainly fits with what I remember. I will be diluting and wearing this tomorrow! Thank you for sharing -- very inspiring.
Nice substitutions. Get this jasmine base - it's the only one you'll ever want.

The overall perfume is nice - it is the first Chanel fragrance I have smelled in a long time which I felt to be comparable to their classics of days gone by.
 

Casper_grassy

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2020
Just made some up with my own substitutions: Dreamwood, Biolandes orris butter artessence + some extra alpha irone, mix of Dorinia and the "Rose 50" Appel base for the rose, Firmenich tuberose, heliotropex, jasmine absolute instead of any base as I don't have a good Jasmine base. And used muscone, shangralide, a bit of cosmone, and a tiny squidge of musk ketone for musks.

How lovely. I don't have Le Lion, but sampled & loved it, and this certainly fits with what I remember. I will be diluting and wearing this tomorrow! Thank you for sharing -- very inspiring.
These are good subs, but that rose 50 bases Alpha Ionone content is so high and it dominates the rose aspects IMO. I think if it were cut down by like 90% it’ll offer much better effects, it absolutely adds bloom to the base but at that concentration it adds to much of a lipsticky/violet vibe. If it were lower it’ll still aid in the blooming effect ionones have.

Also swapping out the phenylacetaldehyde with phenylacetic acid 🤯🤯🤯, but I also am infatuated with PAAcid so could just be me.
 

rococo

Basenotes Member
Jan 1, 2010
These are good subs, but that rose 50 bases Alpha Ionone content is so high and it dominates the rose aspects IMO. I think if it were cut down by like 90% it’ll offer much better effects, it absolutely adds bloom to the base but at that concentration it adds to much of a lipsticky/violet vibe. If it were lower it’ll still aid in the blooming effect ionones have.

Also swapping out the phenylacetaldehyde with phenylacetic acid 🤯🤯🤯, but I also am infatuated with PAAcid so could just be me.
Interesting, I don’t find the alpha ionone too dominant in it at all, but I also love ionones and could smell them all day. My “rose 50” batch itself has some substitutions, namely some of the Bulgarian rose subbed for a rose absolute that I prefer and find more balanced

In my compound of the 🦁 formula I used this 50/50 with Dorinia because I find Dorinia so assertive. Maybe I’ll do it up again (after nabbing that Frater jasmine base..) with just Dorinia, she’s beautiful after all and I have friends who’ll happily wear any version of this formula ❤️
 

rococo

Basenotes Member
Jan 1, 2010
You may want to keep away from Malle's Lipstick Rose then - it smells like every grandma's handbag!

Can't stand it !

A note from wearing this formula today (diluted to 25% with SD40 that has a trace of ambrettolide in it) - still great; the dry-down is definitely a vanillafest, but still nice; I am positive that this is where using the intended bases would make a great difference. Dreamwood and sandalwood EO alone clearly weren't sufficient; I needed another firmer sandalwood material with a bit more edge (or, of course, the Sandexol -- but if I buy another sandalwood thing the floor of my workshop might just cave in.)
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
Can't stand it !

A note from wearing this formula today (diluted to 25% with SD40 that has a trace of ambrettolide in it) - still great; the dry-down is definitely a vanillafest, but still nice; I am positive that this is where using the intended bases would make a great difference. Dreamwood and sandalwood EO alone clearly weren't sufficient; I needed another firmer sandalwood material with a bit more edge (or, of course, the Sandexol -- but if I buy another sandalwood thing the floor of my workshop might just cave in.)
Hah I'm the same with sandalwood - I am obsessed with it even. Sometimes I go to the lab and just sniff the various sandalwood chems for the pleasure of it.
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
Sipped on a bourbon and whipped this up last night, with some suitable substitutions. Smelled it this morning and it has a vintage Tabu vibe to it.
There is much to compare in the two I agree - though where Le Lion has the big natural rose otto heart, Tabu was Orange Blossom. Both very French. Tabu used this base for its orange blossom.
 
Jun 4, 2017
I recently analysed a very current and highly regarded fragrance and prepared a reconstruction formula which I think is extremely true to the real fragrance. I incorporated my own bases where actual bases were apparent in the GCMS and the end result is a really great fragrance. I think it is fascinating that it illustrates how a luxurious modern fragrance can be created using great bases to provide the signature - all without a reliance on Iso E Super, galaxolide or Ambrox.

Attached to this is the complete formula which, due to trademark laws, cannot be named directly. So I figured that while this formula could serve as an educational guide for many, it might also be fun to turn it into a guessing game.

The question is: can you name the perfume in this formula?
Great contribution and much appreciated! The only one I could think of reading it was Shalimar (modernized), bc of the high amounts of Bergamot/E. Vanillin/Coumarin/Labdanum... interestingly that was my first impression when I smelled Le Lion (modern Shalimar + Coromandel)
 

jfrater

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2005
Great contribution and much appreciated! The only one I could think of reading it was Shalimar (modernized), bc of the high amounts of Bergamot/E. Vanillin/Coumarin/Labdanum... interestingly that was my first impression when I smelled Le Lion (modern Shalimar + Coromandel)
Yeah the Coromandel note is clearly there, though Coromandel uses a mix of patchoulol and patchouli if I recall correctly. Here the numbers worked better with a fairly standard MD patchouli oil. It actually allows for some play I think - you could definitely twist the florals around a bit and add further interest to the top notes by adding different citrus variants and bases.
 

Pinkster

Basenotes Member
Dec 30, 2010
This looks really interesting, thanks so much for posting! I’m definitely going to have to give this a try today, I’ve heard great things about Le Lion. Funnily, it looks very reminiscent of a Shalimar formula from ‘44 that I have in my files. I’m pretty sure I found it somewhere on this forum, but I can’t remember who posted it originally—apologies!
 

Attachments

  • 9A9EAF7C-B685-4CE0-BB7F-06C30E47617C.jpeg
    9A9EAF7C-B685-4CE0-BB7F-06C30E47617C.jpeg
    128.5 KB · Views: 57

Latest News

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...

Top