Can we talk about true "extraits" (with an aside on Alaia) and share your collections!

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
Call me old fashioned, but I *hate* that most new releases never have extraits available anymore. I still consider them to be the most special and intimate form of perfume. Only you see the bottle, only you know you're wearing it (mostly). I just find them really special.

When I say parfum I'm referring to mainstream releases who also have other formulations (which leaves out scents like Galop or Lutens' gold line, since you can exclusively get them in one "parfum" concentrations.)

Question - what's one perfume you wish had a matching extrait/parfum? I have 3 - Une Fleur de Cassie, Chinatown, and Le Temps d'Une Fete.

I'm happy to report a few extraits I didn't anticipate - Alaia, the beautiful violet leather can be had at discounters. Also, Shiseido's barbie doll Ever Bloom I've seen pop up on eBay. I'd love to have both!

My collection of extraits that I'm thrilled to own - Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Mitsouko, Rush, Badgley Mischka, Angel, Boucheron, Opium, Maubousin, Montana Just Me, Diorella, Diorissimo, No. 5, Bois des Iles, Dune, Trésor, Bandit, Christian Lacroix, Diamond & Rubies, Jaipur, and Missoni.

I also love getting extraits in spray form. I'm not a big dabber, although most of the splash bottles are the most beautiful.
 

foxbins

Somebody made me a mod?
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Sep 5, 2013
In extrait form, I own Chanel No. 5, Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, No. 22, and Gardenia. I also have 75 mls of Panthere de Cartier, bought when they discontinued it. I have at least 50 mls of L'Heure Bleue and a purse spray of Casmir. I probably have others in extrait concentration but those are the ones I know off the top of my head. I prefer extraits for their depth and richness, and often they last longer than other concentrations.
Now I want to go put on some Cuir de Russie.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Indeed, a well done extract can be wonderful. Rich, deep, and lasting forever. The reconstructions at the osmotheque, mostly of vintage extract formulas, are gorgeous.

I have a few oldies I got by chance (a Shocking ruined but still gorgeous, Arpege, diorissimo, etc), and some recent ones (mostly Chanel and guerlain). I do miss vintage Caron, that was the other brand that had quite a roster. I bought a couple of Caron extraits a few years ago and they were just not particularly good.

cacio
 

cazaubon

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2005
Guerlain Le Bouquet de la Mariée, Jicky, Chamade, Cherry Blossom, LPRN, Mon Précieux Nectar, Rochas Byzance, Caron Nuit de Noël, Vero Profumo Kiki, Rubj & Onda, Amouage Tribute & Homage attars (sort of like extraits), Amouage Lyric, McQueen Parfum.
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
Indeed, a well done extract can be wonderful. Rich, deep, and lasting forever. The reconstructions at the osmotheque, mostly of vintage extract formulas, are gorgeous.

I have a few oldies I got by chance (a Shocking ruined but still gorgeous, Arpege, diorissimo, etc), and some recent ones (mostly Chanel and guerlain). I do miss vintage Caron, that was the other brand that had quite a roster. I bought a couple of Caron extraits a few years ago and they were just not particularly good.

cacio
I'm curious about what people own because I want ideas! Caron is good, if a bit on the spendy side (for the good old bottles).
Im also really curious what extraits people think are superior to their sister compositions.

I can easily say that 7.5ml bottle of Missoni by Maurice Roucel.can be had for very little money on everyone's fav 'bay. And the difference is night and day - not a different fragrance at all (looking at you Guerlain), but a richer, superior formula.

Also one I forgot to add to my list - YSL Champagne. It's lovely as an EDT, but a few dabs of the real stuff is heavenly.
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
In extrait form, I own Chanel No. 5, Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, No. 22, and Gardenia. I also have 75 mls of Panthere de Cartier, bought when they discontinued it. I have at least 50 mls of L'Heure Bleue and a purse spray of Casmir. I probably have others in extrait concentration but those are the ones I know off the top of my head. I prefer extraits for their depth and richness, and often they last longer than other concentrations.
Now I want to go put on some Cuir de Russie.
I'm very jealous of your extrait of Casmir. Not easy to come by, and I'd love to feel its nuclear strength!
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
Guerlain Le Bouquet de la Mariée, Jicky, Chamade, Cherry Blossom, LPRN, Mon Précieux Nectar, Rochas Byzance, Caron Nuit de Noël, Vero Profumo Kiki, Rubj & Onda, Amouage Tribute & Homage attars (sort of like extraits), Amouage Lyric, McQueen Parfum.
I was so close to buying Kingdom in extrait - the bottle is genius. I just...couldn't stomach it. It terrific, but wow.
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
I wish there were extraits for a number of the men's classics such as:
Chanel Egoiste
Chanel Antaeus
Chanel Pour Monsieur
Guerlain Heritage
Guerlain Vetiver
Guerlain Derby
I concur on Egoiste - just because I adore Bois des Iles. From memory, the only extrait-version of a men's scent (not talking indie or niche, etc.) was Impact, the parfum version of Caron puh. I've ways wanted to try it.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Known to SAs
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
Yes, it would be nice if extrait—and bath and body products—were a part of a line, like in the past. It’s a sad loss and I try not to think about it.

Any scent among my frequent wearers that comes in a parfum version, I have it. At present that would be mostly Chanels, except N°22 is used up and needs to be replenished and I don’t yet have Coromandel. I also have Shalimar parfum and some vintage Guerlains and other brands I don’t wear any more.

The one parfum I am waiting for is Le Lion. It doesn’t exist—yet—but I am hoping that as happened with Beige, Sycomore and other Exclusifs, Le Lion will eventually be produced in extrait.
 

chypre

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 10, 2006
I adore extraits, and I agree the traditional ones feel more luxurious and intimate (personally I find the glass-stoppered method of application to feel more personal and tactile). I try to buy the extrait form whenever I can.

The ones I wish came in extraits: Musc Ravageur (I wish there was a softer, muskier extrait version), 31 Rue Cambon, Infusion d'Iris (something smoother, earthier and more iris-y maybe). Cartier's Carat would be very nice if it was deeper and richer. Iris Poudre and, yes, Une Fleur de Cassie. Many of Serge Lutens' scents: Bois Oriental, Encens et Lavande, and Cuir Mauresque. Iris Silver Mist now that it's been reformulated.

Mostly though, I really miss all the extraits that were discontinued. So many of them :cry: Diorissimo, Nahema, Chamade, Bandit, Cabochard, Joy :cry::cry:, Tabac Blond, Farnesiana, Opium, Lauder's Private Collection, Byzance...
 

foxbins

Somebody made me a mod?
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Sep 5, 2013
Mostly though, I really miss all the extraits that were discontinued. So many of them
I have wondered about that. They can't be that much more expensive to produce than edp or edt because they are priced higher, too. Is it that people don't want to buy a rich, intimate scent? They would rather go for projection or wear something that lasts only a few hours? Because if there were money to be made from extraits I'm fairly sure more companies would make them. Have people changed so much in their fragrance preferences? Thinking on this, maybe they have, because I can say with absolute certainty I have never worn a "body spray."

And I would buy extraits of 31 RC and Infusion d'Iris in a heartbeat if someone made them.
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Question - what's one perfume you wish had a matching extrait/parfum? I have 3 - Une Fleur de Cassie, Chinatown, and Le Temps d'Une Fete.



My collection of extraits that I'm thrilled to own - Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Mitsouko, Rush, Badgley Mischka, Angel, Boucheron, Opium, Maubousin, Montana Just Me, Diorella, Diorissimo, No. 5, Bois des Iles, Dune, Trésor, Bandit, Christian Lacroix, Diamond & Rubies, Jaipur, and Missoni.

I also love getting extraits in spray form. I'm not a big dabber, although most of the splash bottles are the most beautiful.
Wow I bet an extrait of Une Fleur de Cassie would be amazing. I always love the idea of an extrait, especially the Chanels, but they can be frustratingly hard to track down and sample in person. I've tried Bois des Isles, Coromandel, Cuir de Russie and Sycomore extrait but I'd really like to try out Gardenia. Of those, I found Cuir de Russie most special in extrait form. The other's, while nice, didn't wow me enough to make it feel worth a purchase over the EDP.

The one parfum I do own is No. 19 which is amazing, ranks in my top 10 out of everything I own. I also have Hermes Cardamusc but it doesn't fit your criteria since that's the only form it comes in.

Hmm my dream extrait... I imagine Chanel No. 18 could be beautiful as an extrait. Or following your lead on Frederic Malle florals En Passant could be lovely. I'm tempted to say Carnal Flower as well but I already feel like the EDP is so concentrated it is already practically an extrait.
 

chypre

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 10, 2006
I have wondered about that. They can't be that much more expensive to produce than edp or edt because they are priced higher, too. Is it that people don't want to buy a rich, intimate scent? They would rather go for projection or wear something that lasts only a few hours? Because if there were money to be made from extraits I'm fairly sure more companies would make them. Have people changed so much in their fragrance preferences? Thinking on this, maybe they have, because I can say with absolute certainty I have never worn a "body spray."

And I would buy extraits of 31 RC and Infusion d'Iris in a heartbeat if someone made them.
I wish I knew. But just anecdotally, most people I know aren't perfumistas and they really don't know about concentrations and longevity. Typically they'd look at price per ml and assume that the 100ml EDP/EDT was the best value. I've had many sales people try to push the larger sizes on that basis too, so I guess it's an approach that works with their customers.

On a related note, I thought it was interesting that Chanel launched a Sycomore parfum rather than a more feminine-leaning one like La Pausa (oh, that's another that would be fantastic as an extrait) or Misia. I've noticed the brands that are releasing parfums tend to focus more on the masculines (even though they're more like flankers than real concentrated extraits). I think you're right about changing tastes, and perhaps they're changing in several different ways too.
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Yes, it would be nice if extrait—and bath and body products—were a part of a line, like in the past. It’s a sad loss and I try not to think about it.

Any scent among my frequent wearers that comes in a parfum version, I have it. At present that would be mostly Chanels, except N°22 is used up and needs to be replenished and I don’t yet have Coromandel. I also have Shalimar parfum and some vintage Guerlains and other brands I don’t wear any more.

The one parfum I am waiting for is Le Lion. It doesn’t exist—yet—but I am hoping that as happened with Beige, Sycomore and other Exclusifs, Le Lion will eventually be produced in extrait.
Certainly Coromandel, I haven't tried the extrait yet.
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
Not sure if anyone's tried them, but Lutens has a new line of extraits - for Fille de Berlin, Amber Sultan, and Chergui.

None of these are my fav Lutenses ,but I might cave in FdB just because I find spraying it to be too much.

Off to look at the Chanel site and feel sorry for myself.... :(
 

Schubertian

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 8, 2021
I own a few extraits/parfums, mostly vintage: Chanel no.5, Mitsouko (both modern and vintage), Paloma Picasso.
I have tiny minis of Dioressence, Miss Dior, Ysatis, Opium and Shalimar pure parfum... full bottles on wish list. I also wish Vol de Nuit extrait came in a smaller bottle so I could afford some.

From the modern stuff, Francesca Bianchis are supposedly extraits, and they are certainly strong enough.
What I'd love to see being released as an extrait: another vote for 31 rue Cambon here!
 

cazaubon

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2005
Speaking of extraits, I got a chance to try Mon Guerlain extrait yesterday. It is only available in Paris at the Guerlain store in a 125ml bee bottle for 890€ but a perfume friend sold me a bit from her bottle. It is like Mon Guerlain x 10 in sweetness and intensity. I think my 10mls is a lifetime supply.
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
I own a few extraits/parfums, mostly vintage: Chanel no.5, Mitsouko (both modern and vintage), Paloma Picasso.
I have tiny minis of Dioressence, Miss Dior, Ysatis, Opium and Shalimar pure parfum... full bottles on wish list. I also wish Vol de Nuit extrait came in a smaller bottle so I could afford some.

From the modern stuff, Francesca Bianchis are supposedly extraits, and they are certainly strong enough.
What I'd love to see being released as an extrait: another vote for 31 rue Cambon here!
I picked out and started collecting early. I'm ashamed to say I have 60ml of Vol de Nuit parfum. Remember when Guerlain extrait testers came in those little cube bottle? You could snag them for it much money.
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
I have a tester spray bottle of Mitsouko extrait (modern) and Bois des iles in modern formulation. I also have about 10 mls of the extrait of Razala.
I haven't heard of Razala - but I too have Mitsouko (my first "extrait" purchase) that's from the 70s(?) How is the current formulation (if you have reference)?

I also have Bois des Iles - which I bought before the turned the line I to EDPs... it's "lovely", and of course the bottle is lovely, but it's a bit meh compared to the EDT of I'm being honest.
 

ineespenes

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 27, 2006
I haven't heard of Razala - but I too have Mitsouko (my first "extrait" purchase) that's from the 70s(?) How is the current formulation (if you have reference)?

I also have Bois des Iles - which I bought before the turned the line I to EDPs... it's "lovely", and of course the bottle is lovely, but it's a bit meh compared to the EDT of I'm being honest.
Razala is a perfume by a perfumer called Ayala Sender. Her brand is called Ayala Moriel. She's originally from Israel, I think. She was living in Canada for many years, but has moved back to Israel now. Her perfumes are inspired by her childhood aparently.
My Mitsouko extrait was bought around 2005-2008..... Can't recall. But it is post formulation. On me the peach is quite pronounced. It's also a bit sweet and not as mossy and woody as the vintage extrait I tried before that. But it's still nice :)
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
Razala is a perfume by a perfumer called Ayala Sender. Her brand is called Ayala Moriel. She's originally from Israel, I think. She was living in Canada for many years, but has moved back to Israel now. Her perfumes are inspired by her childhood aparently.
My Mitsouko extrait was bought around 2005-2008..... Can't recall. But it is post formulation. On me the peach is quite pronounced. It's also a bit sweet and not as mossy and woody as the vintage extrait I tried before that. But it's still nice :)
Ah yes, I've heard of that brand.

Honestly - I've never really smelled much peach in Mitsouko. I feel it's presence more than I smell it as a note, per se.

I smelled the Osmotheque reconstruction of Coty's Chypre and Mitsouko wasn't far off - but that fruitiness is lacking.
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
I don't think Avon has ever made an extrait in 136 years of business as a perfume house, so I'd venture that you're correct.
Not to mention it being a men's scent.

I've not ventured far into Avon's history, only because it's too vast and the examples I've seen at yard sales often have a dilute, nothing-y smell.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
Not to mention it being a men's scent.

I've not ventured far into Avon's history, only because it's too vast and the examples I've seen at yard sales often have a dilute, nothing-y smell.
Your best bet is NOS unsold boxes found at Estate sales or eBay, when families fish out closets or basements full of Mom's or Grandmom's unsold Avon inventory from when they tried being an Avon lady.

A lot of that stuff has never even been exposed to air beyond what went into the bottles when filled 50+ years ago, nor light since they've never left boxes. What you see at yard sales if not boxed has often been destroyed from sitting on vanities or in window sills for 50 years.

Same logic for old designers too, unless you know the person had a cabinet or boudoir for them.
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I have wondered about that. They can't be that much more expensive to produce than edp or edt because they are priced higher, too. Is it that people don't want to buy a rich, intimate scent? They would rather go for projection or wear something that lasts only a few hours? Because if there were money to be made from extraits I'm fairly sure more companies would make them. Have people changed so much in their fragrance preferences? Thinking on this, maybe they have, because I can say with absolute certainty I have never worn a "body spray."

But then there's the peculiar current trend for making a second (or third, or fourth) version of popular men's scents in a "parfum" concentration. It seems like it's happened a lot lately.

Did that start when Dior issued the parfum versions of Eau Sauvage six or seven years ago?
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
But then there's the peculiar current trend for making a second (or third, or fourth) version of popular men's scents in a "parfum" concentration. It seems like it's happened a lot lately.

Did that start when Dior issued the parfum versions of Eau Sauvage six or seven years ago?
This is definitely the current trend, but what I consider "authentic" extraits. I guess I'm biased!
 

Dane

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 9, 2002
I just wanted to share this pic from the Gres website showing lots of treasures.

ps - the current formulation of Cabochard (2019) is excellent. The managed to make it bitter, dry, and leathery, as it should be, but without the bitterness of oakmoss, which they seemed to find a good replacement for. Kudos to whomever formulated this.
 

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