Bortnikoff perfumes (take note Areej le Dore fans!)

Niche_Addict07

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 11, 2018
fgeib07 - do you like Atlantic Ambergris, which everyone is comparing Bonheur to? I own a large decant of AA and love it!

I have a very small decant if ATlantic Ambergris I can see the comparison but if I had to chose I’d take the AA over Bonheur but if I ever had a chance to get a bottle I’d for sure grab it I kick myself every time I talk about that for not picking up a bottle when I had the chance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

strifeknot

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 28, 2008
I didn't know what to expect from these fragrances before ordering them, but they're all impressive. They're composed with high quality materials, like Areej le Doré, but I daresay they're assembled more deftly, with a greater sense of balance. As much as I like Areej le Doré's scents, not one of them feels perfectly composed. There's just a little something that seems out of place as the notes progress. This isn't the case with the Bortnikoffs, which flow elegantly from opening to finish. There's nothing about them that I'd want tweeked.
 

Niche_Addict07

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 11, 2018
I didn't know what to expect from these fragrances before ordering them, but they're all impressive. They're composed with high quality materials, like Areej le Doré, but I daresay they're assembled more deftly, with a greater sense of balance. As much as I like Areej le Doré's scents, not one of them feels perfectly composed. There's just a little something that seems out of place as the notes progress. This isn't the case with the Bortnikoffs, which flow elegantly from opening to finish. There's nothing about them that I'd want tweeked.

That’s interesting point of view I can certainly agree with your statement. The few ALD I have tried I always say to myself I wish etc etc but so far with Bonheur I like it as it is so far nothing i wish was different. I’ll have to have more time with them for sure but off the bat there really impressive


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Splashfrag12

Well-known member
Aug 22, 2013
Bortnikoff Mysterious Oud !!!

The fragrance hails from the perfumer and mastermind who co-owns "Feel-Oud " .
Very dark animalic oud fragrance with the blast of bergamot, cardamom and amber at the initial spray. Not a crowd pleaser for sure but if you are into authentic oud fragrance you would surely love it... Its been 45 minutes wearing it and I can see it is a multi dimensional fragrance with note layers unfolding.
Have to wait for 5-6 hours to see how does the base notes smell on my skin..
Overall a beautifully blended perfume .

Has anyone tried their fragrances??



attachment.php
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
I recently went to NYC and usually when I travel I take one vacation scent (usually something that is new for me, to make a nice vacation memory tied to the scent) and then only a handful of scents from my wardrobe to get me thru. This trip I took my decant of Coup de Foudre by Bortnikoff and I have to say it really performed nicely a couple of nights when I wanted something formal, serious and luxurious-smelling for a NYC 'night out'.

The way the spices mix with the florals and the woods/resins is completely satisfying to me - as an oriental fragrance lover. I am reminded of the Big Orientals (Shalimar, Opium, Cinnabar), but made with wonderful sandalwood and with a nice oud/funk to them. Still this has it's own DNA and smells unique.

I enjoy wearing this one a little more heavy on the application than other oud perfumes. Worn this way the fragrance comes more alive and feels infinitely more satisfying. 4-5 sprays from my small decant bottle work perfect.
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
Do you all have any recommendations for a Russian Oud daily driver? Since it's sold out, I really only wear it on occasions. When I took my little bro out for drinks when he returned from the marine corps, when I moved into my new apartment in Paris, etc.

Yesterday I finally sprung for a bottle of Bortnikoff's Bonheur and it's on the way now, but after walking out this morning for coffee and having my first dose of crisp 60degree autumn air hit me. It made me realize I needed to find my fall go-to scent. Bonheur is a bit too sweet/spring time based on the sample I have but I could be wrong. I also have a luckyscent sample of the Ensar No1 edp on the way. For reference, I really like the way Roja Dove Creation-E matures and develops in cold air. May get a bottle of that if you all have no additional suggestions?
 

strifeknot

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 28, 2008
Yesterday I finally sprung for a bottle of Bortnikoff's Bonheur and it's on the way now, but after walking out this morning for coffee and having my first dose of crisp 60degree autumn air hit me. It made me realize I needed to find my fall go-to scent. Bonheur is a bit too sweet/spring time based on the sample I have but I could be wrong. I also have a luckyscent sample of the Ensar No1 edp on the way.
A couple of days ago, it was quite fall-like and I wore Ensar Oud No. 1. It performed beautifully, and I said to myself I'll be wearing it a lot more often as the weather cools. It's strong without being obnoxious, and is versatile, suitable for day or night, formal or casual.
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
A couple of days ago, it was quite fall-like and I wore Ensar Oud No. 1. It performed beautifully, and I said to myself I'll be wearing it a lot more often as the weather cools. It's strong without being obnoxious, and is versatile, suitable for day or night, formal or casual.

awesome. I've got a sample from luckyscent in the mail as I type this. looking forward to testing it.

Try sampling coup de foudre

I have a sample of all three of bortnikoff's frags. I just ordered the bonheur because that was my favorite. coup de foudre is too gourmand-sweet for me. I was actually surprised at all the hype around it. doesn't fit my personality at all.
 

Valier

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2016
That's a pity, I get a good belt of pine from it which offsets the sweetness and makes it great for autumn
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
!!!

SOOOOOOO a few days back I ordered a sample set to have sent to my friend in Sweden. I never got shipping confirmation so I sent Dmitry an email like "hey man what's goin on with my order?"

The response?


E8ixlQQ.png



2nd Collection Bortnikoff and 4 Collection Areej incoming! The funny take away in all this is that my friend in Sweden is only passively interested in frags and could be the first person to officially get this drop. I'm as excited as I am pissed.
 

strifeknot

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 28, 2008
Thanks for that. I'm more interested in something new from Bortnikoff than from Areej le Dore at this point.
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
Thanks for that. I'm more interested in something new from Bortnikoff than from Areej le Dore at this point.


Interesting. The only "bad" areej I've tried is Indolis. That's a full blown regal grandma frag in my opinion. Russian Musk and Russian Ouds were both loves.

Inverno Russo and Flux de Fleur were the only ones I was on the fence about, and there's a strong possibility I like Bonheur and Coup de Foudre better than those two. Can't say for certain though because I haven't had ample sized samples of them all to say for sure. Mysterious Oud comes behind Russian Oud and Ensar EO1 for me. Either way I'm really excited to have Full collections of Areej and Bortnikoff to go through this fall/winter.
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
!!!

SOOOOOOO a few days back I ordered a sample set to have sent to my friend in Sweden. I never got shipping confirmation so I sent Dmitry an email like "hey man what's goin on with my order?"

The response?


E8ixlQQ.png



2nd Collection Bortnikoff and 4 Collection Areej incoming! The funny take away in all this is that my friend in Sweden is only passively interested in frags and could be the first person to officially get this drop. I'm as excited as I am pissed.

Lmao
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
Bortnikoff 2nd Collection...

bortnikoff.jpg


Grinning ear to ear and haven't even smelled any of the new collection yet. I'm milking this glorious moment of exclusivity for all it's worth lol. But in all seriousness, I feel it'd be in poor taste to have him be kind enough to add these in my order and then I leak the names and first impressions before he makes an announcement on his facebook, instagram or official site.

The names are pretty cool, but I'll let him announce those. I'll give first impressions once he releases the notes and what not.
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
Bortnikoff 2nd Collection...

bortnikoff.jpg


Grinning ear to ear and haven't even smelled any of the new collection yet. I'm milking this glorious moment of exclusivity for all it's worth lol. But in all seriousness, I feel it'd be in poor taste to have him be kind enough to add these in my order and then I leak the names and first impressions before he makes an announcement on his facebook, instagram or official site.

The names are pretty cool, but I'll let him announce those. I'll give first impressions once he releases the notes and what not.

That's very classy of you man
 

Valier

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2016
I am pleased to discover that mysterious oud performs extremely well under the hot weather of the carolinas. All three are now on my to buy list! :)
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
Awesome. Thanks for the post.

So...did your friend send you the samples? Lol

43879086-1905781623051619-591194564597907456-n.jpg



Sure did, I've actually had these for close to a week now so I've "wrist sprayed" and sat with each multiple times. So I'll include the first impression and overall impression for each:

First Collection Impressions: For me personally it was a coin flip between Coup de Foudre and Bonheur. Mysterious Oud was not bad, but I definitely found it boring. It was a bit too safe and lacked uniqueness. I went on a rant in the Ensar thread about how EO#2 was too boring regardless of price, and Mysterious oud gave me the same impression.

I really liked Coup de Foudre and Bonheur but they both took the same angle for me. I collect frags based on seasons and plans (Sunday summer brunch frag, date night frag, winter errands frag, etc). I couldn't imagine a time where one would be better than the other. I ultimately decided on Bonheur. Coup de Foudre has the better opening, but something in the heart notes is very unpleasant to me and I didn't like sitting through it to get to the dry down. Bonheur is a little less stellar in the opening but I absolutely love the dry down. That Clove/Nutmeg combination is to die for. Spicy and almost velvety in character. I also found Bonheur to be good for daywear throughout the year as opposed to just a summer or winter scent.





Second Collection Impressions

Vetiver Nocturne: Initially I was very put off. First spray is a strong green/fougére scent with the trademark "Russian Oomph" density found in Areej and Bortnikoff frags. I let it sit a minute or two and then approached again. This smells like being outside late night after an April rain. 55 degrees out so the air is really wet, cold, and lush with green scents. That's the opening, except with the Bortnikoff DNA which is just a really really dense composition à la CoupDF and Bonheur.. So the first 10 minutes I'm like "yeah okay this is cool but a swing and a miss for me" but then lavender starts to creep in more and more. There's also a wood note, not sure if it's sandalwood, clove or something else. So imagine that cold, wet , fougére smell with a touch of lavender and a rich (not dry) wood. They're subtle additions but they transform the personality of the fragrance almost completely (in a good way).

Verdict: This is everything I was hoping Areej Le Doré's Indolis would be. I love his work but I put Indolis in the bin with Chanel #5 as just offensive and gross. Vetiver Nocturne on the other hand is probably one of the more "beautiful" compositions I've come across this year but it's dense and it unpacks SLOWLY. This is a 30ml buy for me to spray on when I'm out in the suburbs having one of those latenight back porch conversations with friends till the early hours of morning. Not for everyone. Certainly won't be your most reached for frag but it is special and enjoyable.


L'heure Exquise: This one is victim of it's own strength. Strifeknot mentioned a bit earlier how he felt like Areej Le Dore's composition aren't as well done as Bortnikoff. Okay so this one immediately reminded me of Inverno Russo which is a brutish musky masterpiece. Inverno Russo moves me like Russian Oud moves me. Spray hits your chest and you're ready to chop firewood and wrestle stray forest animals. They're dense with a brute character. Okay well I find L'heure Exquise to be a more well blended, and well behaved Inverno Russo and that seems to be the problem for me. It smells great, the notes are really raw in character, but like... it contradicts itself. Imagine if Francis Kurkdjian got his hands on Inverno Russo. That's L'heure Exquise but when do I wear this then? It's too musky and raw to be your formal, or first date scent. But it's too well blended and composed for me want to sit and enjoy it's rawness at night over a glass of whisky. I prefer Inverno Russo in that situation.

Verdict: It smells really good. Truly. I just have no idea whenever I would reach for this. Pass for me.



Oud Maximus: *spray* ... ... smile smile can't stop smiling. what the hell am I smelling even? I remember seeing on Bortnikoff's facebook page that he was holding a "civet" bottle he hinted was going to use in the second collection. never smelled it myself and found one base noter that described it "I have some real civet paste here; I'm smelling it now. It has notes of honey, leather, wet clay, butter, a fine aged Parmesan or Asiago cheese." That's exactly what I caught in the opening. It is so so strange in a good way. The first 10minutes of this frag will be polarizing. You will love or hate it because that cheese note is very particular. After that though, the cheese note fades out and then you're left with this BUTTER/honey/wood note that is just stunning. No exaggeration this might be Bortnikoff's first "cult classic". I absolutely love this scent, this is the risk he needed to take. I really like CoupDF and bonheur, but this is the first Bortnikoff I love.

Verdict:I think people are going to have their Oud Maximus bottles proudly sat next to their Russian Oud. It doesn't smell even remotely the same but it has that same level of uniqueness that I think most frag enthusiasts search for. The best part? It's actually wearable after dry down. I'd almost wear this to dinner in the winter... almost. I'm going to restrain myself from buying two 50ml bottles when these go on sale.


***Overall I think the 2nd collection is considerably better than the 1st. The first had an average oud offering, and two similarly "quite-likeable" offerings. For me the 2nd is more diverse. Something that's a bit of an outlier in L'heure Exquise. A really gorgeous fougére/floral offering, and then an Oud that is far from average, far from basic, and will likely be Bortnikoff's first sold-out forever frag.
 
Last edited:

AZsmells

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2004
43879086-1905781623051619-591194564597907456-n.jpg



Sure did, I've actually had these for close to a week now so I've "wrist sprayed" and sat with each multiple times. So I'll include the first impression and overall impression for each:

First Collection Impressions: For me personally it was a coin flip between Coup de Foudre and Bonheur. Mysterious Oud was not bad, but I definitely found it boring. It was a bit too safe and lacked uniqueness. I went on a rant in the Ensar thread about how EO#2 was too boring regardless of price, and Mysterious oud gave me the same impression.

I really liked Coup de Foudre and Bonheur but they both took the same angle for me. I collect frags based on seasons and plans (Sunday summer brunch frag, date night frag, winter errands frag, etc). I couldn't imagine a time where one would be better than the other. I ultimately decided on Bonheur. Coup de Foudre has the better opening, but something in the heart notes is very unpleasant to me and I didn't like sitting through it to get to the dry down. Bonheur is a little less stellar in the opening but I absolutely love the dry down. Spicy and almost velvety in character. I also found Bonheur to be good for daywear throughout the year as opposed to just a summer or winter scent.





Second Collection Impressions

Vetiver Nocturne: Initially I was very put off. After first spray it's a very dense green/fougére scent with the trademark "Russian Oomph" density found in Areej and Bortnikoff frags. I let it sit a minute or two and then approached again. This smells like being outside late night after an April rain. 55 degrees out so the air is really wet, cold, and lush with green scents. That's the opening, except with the Bortnikoff DNA which is just a really really dense composition à la CoupDF and Bonheur.. So the first 10 minutes I'm like "yeah okay this is cool but a swing in a miss for me" but then lavender starts to creep in more and more. So imagine that cold, wet , fougére smell with a touch of lavender.

Verdict: This is everything I was hoping Areej Le Doré's Indolis would be. I love his work but I put Indolis in the bin with Chanel #5 as just offensive and gross. Vetiver Nocturne on the other hand is probably one of the more "beautiful" compositions I've come across this year but it's dense and it unpacks SLOWLY. This is a 30ml buy for me to spray on when I'm out in the suburbs having one of those latenight back porch conversations with friends till the early hours of morning. Not for everyone. Certainly won't be your most reached for frag but it is special and enjoyable.


L'heure Exquise: This one is victim of it's own strength. Strifeknot mentioned a bit earlier how he felt like Areej Le Dore's composition aren't as well done as Bortnikoff. Okay so this one immediately reminded me of Inverno Russo which is a brutish musky masterpiece. Inverno Russo moves me like Russian Oud moves me. Spray hits your chest and you're ready to chop firewood and wrestle stray forest animals. They're dense with a brute character. Okay well I find L'heure Exquise to be a more well blended, and well behaved Inverno Russo and that seems to be the problem for me. It smells great, the notes are really raw in character, but like... it contradicts itself. Imagine if Francis Kurkdjian got his hands on Inverno Russo. That's L'heure Exquise but when do I wear this then? It's too musky and raw to be your formal, or first date scent. But it's too well blended and composed for me want to sit and enjoy it's rawness at night over a glass of whisky. I prefer Inverno Russo in that situation.

Verdict: It smells really good. Truly. I just have no idea whenever I would reach for this. Pass for me.



Oud Maximus: *spray* ... ... smile smile can't stop smiling. what the hell am I smelling even? I remember seeing on Bortnikoff's facebook page that he was holding a "civet" bottle he hinted was going to use in the second collection. never smelled it myself and found one base noter that described it "I have some real civet paste here; I'm smelling it now. It has notes of honey, leather, wet clay, butter, a fine aged Parmesan or Asiago cheese." That's exactly what I caught in the opening. It is so so strange in a good way. The first 10minutes of this frag will be polarizing. You will love or hate it because that cheese note is very particular. After that though, the cheese note fades out and then you're left with this BUTTER/honey/wood note that is just stunning. No exaggeration this might be Bortnikoff's first "cult classic". I absolutely love this scent, this is the risk he needed to take. I really like CoupDF and bonheur, but this is the first Bortnikoff I love.

Verdict:I think people are going to have their Oud Maximus bottles proudly sat next to their Russian Oud. It doesn't smell even remotely the same but it has that same level of uniqueness that I think most frag enthusiasts search for. The best part? It's actually wearable after dry down. I'd almost wear this to dinner in the winter... almost. I'm going to restrain myself from buying two 50ml bottles when these go on sale.


***Overall I think the 2nd collection is considerably better than the 1st. The first had an average oud offering, and two similarly "quite-likeable" offerings. For me the 2nd is more diverse. Something that's a bit of an outlier in L'heure Exquise. A really gorgeous fougére/floral offering, and then an Oud that is far from average, far from basic, and will likely be Bortnikoff's first sold-out forever frag.

Excellent post. I haven't tried any of the first series. Also missed out on Inverno Russo. I love Russian Oud and Russian Musk has been ordered.
All 3 of these sound great. Oud Maximus sounds like a must own for me.
When do these come out?
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
Excellent post. I haven't tried any of the first series. Also missed out on Inverno Russo. I love Russian Oud and Russian Musk has been ordered.
All 3 of these sound great. Oud Maximus sounds like a must own for me.
When do these come out?

No idea unfortunately. Areej says end of October, Bortnikoff says "coming soon". Bortnikoff already has his boxes and silks picked out, he had the juice created to send me samples, and he just released the names. I imagine his would be coming out sometime October as well, November at the latest but I'm just speculating.
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
Excellent reviews wood&leather!

The vetiver note in Vetiver Nocturne is it salty/iodine-like?


I can't say for certain because my experience with vetiver is just a bunch of "barbershop" frag samples and 3 Vetiver based fragrances. Elie Saab No.6 Vetiver, Roja Dove Vetiver Extrait, and now this one. Elie Saab No. 6 I think had the salty/iodine character you are thinking of. It didn't stay in my collection long because I couldn't stand it. The vetiver here comes off almost seaweed like and slightly bitter. I don't want to speak to the Roja one because it's so dressed up with other notes there's little vetiver to actually interpret.
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
I can't say for certain because my experience with vetiver is just a bunch of "barbershop" frag samples and 3 Vetiver based fragrances. Elie Saab No.6 Vetiver, Roja Dove Vetiver Extrait, and now this one. Elie Saab No. 6 I think had the salty/iodine character you are thinking of. It didn't stay in my collection long because I couldn't stand it. The vetiver here comes off almost seaweed like and slightly bitter. I don't want to speak to the Roja one because it's so dressed up with other notes there's little vetiver to actually interpret.

Gotcha. I guess what I meant was if you didn't know this was a vetiver scent would you have been able to detect it?
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
Gotcha. I guess what I meant was if you didn't know this was a vetiver scent would you have been able to detect it?

Oh yeah without a doubt. For me I sprayed and processed it as "okay wow fougére... green... green... yup there's the vetiver". I know what you're getting at though, for example, bergamot is one of those notes that could be buried in a grocery list of heart notes but it always jumps out to the forefront as BERGAMOT. The vetiver here does do that but as someone who does not traditionally like vetiver that much, I can say it is well balanced.
 

wood&leather

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 27, 2018
With the quality of ingredients used, I wonder what effects aging has on Bortnikoff and Areej fragrances. I only use my Russian oud once or twice a month and I feel my chest hair gets a little fuller with each use lol. But in all seriousness, I've only had Bonheur a few months and I feel the clove/nutmeg heart notes are REALLY starting to come out to make it a great player in the "holiday fragrance" game. So much so, I really don't see a need to get my hands on Tauer's Desert Morocain or Au couer Du Désert fragrances anymore.
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
With the quality of ingredients used, I wonder what effects aging has on Bortnikoff and Areej fragrances...

If stored properly (avoiding light, heat, exposure to oxygen) I'd say YES because of the use of a lot of natural ingredients it has every reason to age beautifully. Perhaps not 'better' but definitely it will evolve and become more complex.

I noticed on his Instagram comments that he said Luckyscent will be stocking the 2nd collection.
 

StellaDiverFlynn

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2016
I manage to smell all 3 Bortnikoff currently available and the next 3 to be soon released. When describing his fragrances, I find it kind of unavoidable to reference Areej Le Doré, mostly because they are colleagues in Feel Oud if I'm not mistaken, so it's possible to use the same oud and sandalwood in both of their creations, and their materials have this distinct artisan signature. However, their aesthetics seem to differ, with Areej exaggerating certain notes to achieve a more dramatic effect, while Bortnikoff are overall more balanced and composed, therefore more wearable in general. I enjoy both styles very much.

Here are my impressions of individual perfumes.


First collection:

- Mysterious Oud: On the surface, it’s a suave, even playful oud. There is the radiance of fruity sweetness, and the comforting embrace of sweet resins, sometimes even vaguely reminiscent of chocolate. But there are still darker undercurrents simmering just below: a hint of inky aspect of oud, a glimpse of the leathery nuance of castoreum, or a whiff of dry spices and resins like old, brownish books in a wooden drawer.

Mysterious Oud has a healthy dose of resins like Oud Zen but not as majestic; has some dry spices like Oud Picante but not as fiery; has gourmand elements but not as intense as Russian Oud (which is unfortunately too sweet for me), but it has the advantage of being approachable without sacrificing those interesting nuances of oud (minus its overly animalic ones). A great introductory natural oud fragrance in my opinion.

- Coup de Foudre: A beaming, vibrant floriental of sweet citrus and exotic white/yellow flowers floating in powdery resins, initially with an adorable rubbery undertone reminiscent of bubblegum not unlike Areej’s Flux de Fleur, although I find the rubbery sweetness of Coup de Foudre is less intense than Flux de Fleur. Later on, instead of the musky dry down of Flux de Fleur, Coup de Foudre is overtaken by an exaggerated gardenia (probably a combination of oud, resins and florals) and turns deliciously salty and cheese-like, yummy!

- Bonheur: Based on the note pyramid, this was my least expected one from Bortnikoff’s first collection. But after a few wearing, it’s now my favourite among the three, ha! Bonheur does share some similarities with Areej’s Atlantic Ambergris to my nose. While I admire the daring, exaggerated style of Atlantic Ambergris, the strong metallic and marine sensation imparted by ambergris and clove is sadly too much for me to handle personally (I envy those who can!). However, in Bonheur, the ambergris and clove are much more cooperative with the rest of the ingredients.

The marine nature of ambergris complements the fuzzy green moss, creating an enticing effect reminiscent of seaweed, while the clove here is more spicy than metallic, thus much warmer and more welcoming. The whole effect of the tantalising bergamot opening to mossy yet warm sweet spicy dry down is a wonderful classic fougère! Never thought I’d enjoy a fougère this much. Another surprise to me, ha!


The quality of the second collection is on par with the first in my opinion.

- Oud Maximus: This is the one I immediately enjoyed. A sour, fermented goat cheese-like oud that gradually mellows into a tender musky honeyed rose with hints of vegetal aspects and sweet resinous oud in the background. I especially appreciate this duality of challenging animalic opening and sensual dry down, a structure which I also encountered in Dusita Oudh Infini, although the goat cheese aspect is more intense in Oudh Infini and the fragrance feels more polished than the artisan vibe of Bortnikoff.

I agree with wood&leather that Oud Maximus has the potential to be the most popular one among the second collection, because it's very recognisable as an oud fragrance, contrary to the other two that took me a bit more effort to figure out what I was smelling. This familiarity will probably elicit an instant reaction, but at the same time, I sometimes find the overall effect a bit too close to some oud oils or oud-rose attar, which is a concern that prevented me from buying a full bottle of Oud Zen. But there's not doubt that Oud Maximus smells very enjoyable!

- Vétiver Nocturne: The titular vetiver is not a predominant note on my skin, at least not in the typical smoky, woody, nutty or sparklingly grassy and grapefruit-ish way in modern western perfumery. The fragrance itself is more of a smooth white floral over a tender woody resinous even slightly salty (ambergris?) base and occasional mossy sparkles of vetiver, and the different ingredients interweave with each other seamlessly which makes picking up notes not very easy.

The white floral has some similarities with jasmine with a green accent, but nothing indolic here, while a bit of spicy nuance of myrrh and clove, and faint animalic whiffs of oud lurk around. This slightly reminds me of the dry down of Walimah, when the initial oud, mossy vetiver and white florals are no longer as vivid as the opening phase and meld together into a whole. But Vétiver Nocturne has a surprising amount of sandalwood which becomes more dominant later on, with its alluring see-saw between dry peanut shell and milky creaminess which I love! This part echos with the development of Indolis to me, as both have a unexpected stronger sandalwood presence in the dry down.

- L'Heure Exquise: This one surprised me the most. The opening is a delicious puff of bitter sweet cacao powder. Then the fragrance turns surprisingly dry, or even feels like dehydrated wood, but with a subtle earthy undertone. I initially thought it was a strange effect from patchouli, but after seeing the note pyramid, I figured it was probably a combination of camphor and nagarmotha. I'm usually wary of nagarmotha because it's almost exclusively used to reconstruct an oud accord in modern western perfumery and is often wrapped in a heavy layer of overpoweringly arid woody amber aromachemicals. The combined effect of that parched nagarmotha and forceful smokiness is very unpleasant to my nose. But here, it's supported by molten resins, and the juxtaposition of that dehydrated earthy woodiness and comforting resins is enticing!

This contrast will mellow with time, and the fragrance becomes more like sweet resins with an unusual woody backbone. And there is somehow an oriental fougère effect in the dry down, not dissimilar to Bonheur but like substituting the moss with nagarmotha, probably because they both share clove and ambergris as notes.


----------------------------

Dmitry very kindly included the samples of his second collection in my recent order after I encountered shipping problems. When I was writing to him about my impressions on his latest creations, I asked him about the launch date. In his reply last Sunday, he said it would be ready for sale in 10-15 days. So if everything goes accordingly, the launch is probably very soon.

I also asked him if there will be 30 ml bottles like in the first collection. He said that for now there are only 50 ml bottles for the upcoming second collection, and that maybe he'll think about 30 ml format later, but that's not guaranteed. As the 30 ml bottles hit the sweet spot of quantity vs. price for me, I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 
Last edited:

Latest News

Top