Bogue profumo / Antonio Gardoni consolidated thread

Mak-7

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 19, 2019
Very interesting thoughts subumbra

Personally, I have been quietly searching for a 'smoky' eaux-type cologne for years. I have come 'close' a few times and there was one that that niche, essential oil brand, The Rising Phoenix, was developing (that never got funding) that came the closest. It was like a smoky woody cologne and I loved it. Besides that, I have not been able to find a proper smoke cologne...as I love both genres.

I do own a decant of vintage Cologne Reloaded by Bogue and although it's a cologne it is challenging to wear it in hot Miami weather. The animalic notes make it sort of embarassingly loud...lol.
Did you try Chypre Mojo by PMdP or eldo u or someone like u?
First one is my kind of smoky one that is still somewhat fresh and can be worn during summer.
 

SubUmbra

Basenotes Junkie
Jul 9, 2018
I am not so worries if it is not a EDC, summer or winter, I am more curious how does it stand smell wise. Is it artistic and unique, does it bring original concept to the table?
I definitely hear you there, Mak. The interesting -- and, ultimately, disappointing -- thing about that in this case is NAME (in my opinion) takes on the least-desirable aspects of an EdC when it smells like it should be an EdP.

A few hours after writing my former thoughts, I do smell something else going on; but the sillage at this stage is so miniscule that the complexity beyond the smoke is actively difficult to discern. I'm not a person who cares much about sillage, but it feels like this fragrance is working against itself in that respect. My criticism isn't necessarily that it isn't an EdC and more so that the active decision to make it one (in dilution and intention only) seems to hinder the wearer's ability to appreciate the fragrance.

A little worried about this smoke comment, as at times it's just a lazy move to mask stuff...
Completely agree! That's the thing which struck me about NAME. I have bad associations with smoke bombs which really just smell like diluted cade oil and not much else. I think it's a sign of not knowing what to do with certain materials, but I know Antonio knows very well how to handle a smoke element. He's pushed it to at least two or three different extremes, which I respect him greatly for.
 
Jul 1, 2015
Based on your guys reviews of the Name and what I have been reading in a FB channel, I am actually scared to even open the bottle. I liked the prototype, but I have really bad associations with smoke (CA fire of 2020 was not too far from where I live so yeah). I might just sell unopened bottle as I am scared to even try it
 

Mak-7

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 19, 2019
Mine should arrive next week, so I will take the burden of giving the final ruling 9n this project 😋
 

cpatrick44

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 7, 2020
I actually quite like NAME. Split got here this morning and it's been wearing nicely. The smoke is not that overbearing to me and along with the menthol/eucalyptus it gives a nice backdrop to the more traditional cologne notes. We're hot and humid in FL right now though, so it could be that certain things are evaporating faster and affecting my experience.
 

cpatrick44

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 7, 2020
I actually quite like NAME. Split got here this morning and it's been wearing nicely. The smoke is not that overbearing to me and along with the menthol/eucalyptus it gives a nice backdrop to the more traditional cologne notes. We're hot and humid in FL right now though, so it could be that certain things are evaporating faster and affecting my experience.
Update: the drydown is pretty washed out. Just a kind of smokey blur left over after the rest fades. I wouldn't say it's particularly interesting or beautiful. I still really like the first hour of this, but I'd honestly like it better if it all just faded away at that point and you could re-apply or put on something else.
 

Mak-7

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 19, 2019
This "Name" project is shit.
Here are 3 personal reasons why:
1) Composition is nothing like the brief. It is green herbal a bit sour accord wrapped in smoke(smoke is less present if worn on skin vs clothes). Something like O/e with gentle smoke. Liquor? Oranges? Anything new and intriguing? Nope, none of that present.
2) Big for me - tomato fkin leaf. How Bryant was not able to smell it is beyond me. I asked him directly and answer was that he couldn't sense it. Out of all possible iterations to pick this? Instead of insulting I'd just say that it's not my style/poor style choice.
3)Antonio Gardonio - I know that final selection was clients, but really? He wanted to explore cologne theme but went on to the same beaten track as his old creations. I am a bit disappointed since such basic stuff I can more or less re-create at home for minimal cost.

Will see if there is any way to inject it with some other materials to make it good, maybe will try and check with Gardoni if he has any tips, but as it stands now - a major flop.
 
Jul 1, 2015
This "Name" project is shit.
Here are 3 personal reasons why:
1) Composition is nothing like the brief. It is green herbal a bit sour accord wrapped in smoke(smoke is less present if worn on skin vs clothes). Something like O/e with gentle smoke. Liquor? Oranges? Anything new and intriguing? Nope, none of that present.
2) Big for me - tomato fkin leaf. How Bryant was not able to smell it is beyond me. I asked him directly and answer was that he couldn't sense it. Out of all possible iterations to pick this? Instead of insulting I'd just say that it's not my style/poor style choice.
3)Antonio Gardonio - I know that final selection was clients, but really? He wanted to explore cologne theme but went on to the same beaten track as his old creations. I am a bit disappointed since such basic stuff I can more or less re-create at home for minimal cost.

Will see if there is any way to inject it with some other materials to make it good, maybe will try and check with Gardoni if he has any tips, but as it stands now - a major flop.
Ouch, at this point I am not even sure I want to open the bottle. This was an expensive lesson to not trust 'unknown' noses, although I am surprised Gardoni would even put his name on this. Keep us posted on what Antonio says.
 

catalyst11225

Basenotes Member
Jun 19, 2019
This "Name" project is shit.
Here are 3 personal reasons why:
1) Composition is nothing like the brief. It is green herbal a bit sour accord wrapped in smoke(smoke is less present if worn on skin vs clothes). Something like O/e with gentle smoke. Liquor? Oranges? Anything new and intriguing? Nope, none of that present.
2) Big for me - tomato fkin leaf. How Bryant was not able to smell it is beyond me. I asked him directly and answer was that he couldn't sense it. Out of all possible iterations to pick this? Instead of insulting I'd just say that it's not my style/poor style choice.
3)Antonio Gardonio - I know that final selection was clients, but really? He wanted to explore cologne theme but went on to the same beaten track as his old creations. I am a bit disappointed since such basic stuff I can more or less re-create at home for minimal cost.

Will see if there is any way to inject it with some other materials to make it good, maybe will try and check with Gardoni if he has any tips, but as it stands now - a major flop.
From the get go, it seemed like it was a big risk based off the direction / notes Bryant chose. He should have kept it simple and just gone with a traditional cologne or even a rework of cologne reloaded..
Crazy thing is dude received mods and still went with something that's not so great.. I guess people can't complain because it wasn't a collective project, he just used people to fund his own thing which I'm sure he won't even keep himself lolll
 

heavy black heart

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 20, 2022
wearing O/E today & I love it in the hot weather

what do you guys think are the notes in this one?

I get a weird musky overdose of sour lemon which then settles into something kind of floral & maybe powdery? the medicinal / herbal / balsamic vibes I get from Maai & Mem seem to be less prominent on this one

there’s also another thing I get when I first spray it but it’s hard to describe - kinda spice kinda chemical
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
wearing O/E today & I love it in the hot weather

what do you guys think are the notes in this one?

I get a weird musky overdose of sour lemon which then settles into something kind of floral & maybe powdery? the medicinal / herbal / balsamic vibes I get from Maai & Mem seem to be less prominent on this one

there’s also another thing I get when I first spray it but it’s hard to describe - kinda spice kinda chemical
Is it the 'floor wax' sort of note that also shows up in Cologne Reloaded by Bogue?
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
Any fans of the original Douleur? I just stumbled upon my sample from a while back and I can't believe how much fun this one is. I liked it back when I first tried it, and I like it even more now. I think I should get a bottle while they are still available at retailers. I've always heard mixed opinions on this one, even people saying that it smells of dead bodies:))). I get cotton candy, plastic/rubber, metallic rose, and a sort of aquatic facet. It makes me think of stewed plums, barbie dolls, and galactic roses:). Very futuristic. My only complaint is how strong this stuff is. I only put a tiny amount on a blotter and the whole room smells like it.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2019
Any fans of the original Douleur? I just stumbled upon my sample from a while back and I can't believe how much fun this one is. I liked it back when I first tried it, and I like it even more now. I think I should get a bottle while they are still available at retailers. I've always heard mixed opinions on this one, even people saying that it smells of dead bodies:))). I get cotton candy, plastic/rubber, metallic rose, and a sort of aquatic facet. It makes me think of stewed plums, barbie dolls, and galactic roses:). Very futuristic. My only complaint is how strong this stuff is. I only put a tiny amount on a blotter and the whole room smells like it.
I keep my bottle in the box, all wrapped in a plastic bag.
 

Dr B1414

Basenotes Junkie
Oct 21, 2019
Top 3 for me would be AG, MEM, and OG Douleur.
MAAI would come as fourth. For whatever reason, I never fell deeply in love with MAAI. It should be a no-brainer for me, vintage style floral, moss, civet. But, I don't really see it that vintage, actually, more of a modern approach on a vintage theme. I don't get as much moss as I hoped, and although some people complain about how dirty it is, there's not enough civet for me. I still like it a lot, but I don't love it.
 

Sinkinggrade

Super Member
Jun 5, 2019
Top 3 for me would be AG, MEM, and OG Douleur.
MAAI would come as fourth. For whatever reason, I never fell deeply in love with MAAI. It should be a no-brainer for me, vintage style floral, moss, civet. But, I don't really see it that vintage, actually, more of a modern approach on a vintage theme. I don't get as much moss as I hoped, and although some people complain about how dirty it is, there's not enough civet for me. I still like it a lot, but I don't love it.
Maai is way too feminine for me, a constant conflict, even more than Douleur!, which I could call it queer, but the far drydown of this thing is something else and totally addictive: one step over Gardelia's and at the same level of a couple of private works.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2019
Top 3 for me would be AG, MEM, and OG Douleur.
MAAI would come as fourth. For whatever reason, I never fell deeply in love with MAAI. It should be a no-brainer for me, vintage style floral, moss, civet. But, I don't really see it that vintage, actually, more of a modern approach on a vintage theme. I don't get as much moss as I hoped, and although some people complain about how dirty it is, there's not enough civet for me. I still like it a lot, but I don't love it.
I’m guessing it’s not metal plate Maai you have? That one is almost uncomfortably animalic/mossy. My least fav version but I could see why people would go bananas for it.
 

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