Bogue profumo / Antonio Gardoni consolidated thread

Proust_Madeleine

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2019
I never tried noun or 07738, I’m curious as to what reminds you of them in AG
The chewy Ylang. The golden Amber/benzoin accord. One of the white floral layers.
Any other feedback?
Any members got their bottles yet?

Also, how is the bespoke project going?
Might be Bogue overdose if we get this release before year end 💣
definitely seeing a little bit of Maai in it today. But not the old Maai with all this moss. This reminds me of the more recent iteration of Maai(which imho is just as good and more interesting in a lot of ways).
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
AG smells like dreams man, everything I wanted it to be.
I am wearing some right now and I really enjoy it I must say. Citruses, Gardenia, Woods, lots of Resins. Beautiful perfume. I would say it's a woody-floral-chypre. The moss plays quite a big role. I'm still only one hour or so into it. Don't know if I would need a bottle of it though. I'll try and secure maybe 30ml of it. I think it really sums up Gardoni's career as a perfumer thus far, as others have mentioned, an amalgam of previous Bogues. Very beautiful perfume, dens, rich, yet not overpowering, stays very elegant and refined. It seems to have a very clear trajectory compared to some other of his creations.
 

Ashfaque

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2017
I am wearing some right now and I really enjoy it I must say. Citruses, Gardenia, Woods, lots of Resins. Beautiful perfume. I would say it's a woody-floral-chypre. The moss plays quite a big role. I'm still only one hour or so into it. Don't know if I would need a bottle of it though. I'll try and secure maybe 30ml of it. I think it really sums up Gardoni's career as a perfumer thus far, as others have mentioned, an amalgam of previous Bogues. Very beautiful perfume, dens, rich, yet not overpowering, stays very elegant and refined. It seems to have a very clear trajectory compared to some other of his creations.
I am eagerly waiting for my bottle. Now that you mentioned gardenia - one of my most favourite flowers and extract - I am now even more excited.
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
I am eagerly waiting for my bottle. Now that you mentioned gardenia - one of my most favourite flowers and extract - I am now even more excited.
That's probably what I like the most about it. I really hoped that it wouldn't be the Jasmine or his Ylang-Ylang that would jump off the skin the most, as I have plenty of other perfumes to satisfy those cravings. I really like that the Gardenia dominates on my skin. It plays beautifully with all the other elements and makes it more unique to me. However, it might play a different tune on your skin:).
 

Ashfaque

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2017
That's probably what I like the most about it. I really hoped that it wouldn't be the Jasmine or his Ylang-Ylang that would jump off the skin the most, as I have plenty of other perfumes to satisfy those cravings. I really like that the Gardenia dominates on my skin. It plays beautifully with all the other elements and makes it more unique to me. However, it might play a different tune on your skin:).
Retaining the unique facet of gardenia that lies somewhere between creamy j. sambac and green & narcotic-laden tuberose is not an easy task. So far I have only found two compos that fit my preference - JdB Gardenia (Sultan Pasha) and SOMA (NOT Perfumes). In the absence of Gardelia, I hope AG will whet my appetite for more gardenia compositions. I adore that flower. Gardenia absolute goes so well on my skin when I layer it with some sandal, orris & some other florals. It is heavenly.
Gardelia and 07738 will always be my favorites from the house, but damn does AG feel incredible everytime I wear it.
I hope Antonio will give us something in similar vein in near future (if AG is not already). It was released a year before I became aware of Bogue! I vaguely recall seeing them available on Sacro Cuore website until 2017/18. I really wanted to get it. But the high price (mainly due to custom bottle) stopped me.
 

Johnny_Ludlow

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2004
During last few months I have gone through around fifty very highly rated modern niche fragrances. There are exactly two which keep calling my name and haunting me. Bogue's MEM and LiTA.

I can easily relate with views that MEM is a chaotic mess. But to me it's not. Exactly because it is almost too complex, but never crosses the line, it is so enchanting.

When I think of MEM, I think of a coherent single scent, it smells like itself. But this one scent these 87 ingredients create is incredibly complex. MEM is like a three dimensional object, say, a ball. Ball is a solid single object but you must rotate it to see the all sides of it. It's same with MEM. When I smell it, I can only concentrate on some apects of it. I can never capture the whole of it at once. This makes it an absolute joy to wear and smell MEM.

To me MEM is essentially an animalic lavender fougere. It's a Mouchoir de Monsieur for this more complex and less peaceful age. I could list all notes I can sometimes get a glimpse of, but it would be quite pointless. Anyway, I am inclined to use the word masterpiece. This doesn't happen every year, not even close.

I'll write something about LiTA later today.
 
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Proust_Madeleine

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2019
During last few months I have gone through around fifty very highly rated modern niche fragrances. There are exactly two which keep calling my name and haunting me. Bogue's MEM and LiTA.

I can easily relate with views that MEM is a chaotic mess. But to me it's not. Exactly because it is almost too complex, but never crosses the line, it is so enchanting.

When I think of MEM, I think of a coherent single scent, it smells like itself. But this one scent these 87 ingredients create is incredibly complex. MEM is like a three dimensional object, say, a ball. Ball is a solid single object but you must rotate it to see the all sides of it. It's same with MEM. When I smell it, I can only concentrate on some apects of it. I can never capture the whole of it at once. This makes it an absolute joy to wear and smell MEM.

To me MEM is essentially an animalic lavender fougere. It's a Mouchoir de Monsieur for this more complex and less peaceful age. I could list all notes I can sometimes get a glimpse of, but it would be quite pointless. Anyway, I am inclined to use the word masterpiece. This doesn't happen every year, not even close.

I'll write something about LiTA later today.
Fantastic review. I agree. I think anyone who calls MeM a mess hasn’t spent enough time with it. Scents with incredible complexity take a moment to get your head around.
 

Johnny_Ludlow

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2004
Okay. LiTA.

If MEM is a solid three dimensional object, LiTA is a room. This is not a fragrance, but a concrete real life place. Talking about notes here seems completely obsolete. It is a magnificent illusion and I prefer to talk about this illusion rather than dissect it and thus explain it away.

As I mentioned, LiTA is a room. It is a dusty and cozy and slighly musty space. There is something very pleasant and grounded in this aroma. Every house has its own scent, this reminds me of the scent of the house of my best friend in my childhood.

There was a party last night. Night full of intellectual discussions and deep friendship. They drank high quality cognac. Yes, there are also many stale half drank coffee mugs lying around, someone smoked a cigarette long time ago and very high quality bag of pipe tobacco still lies open on the table. This tobacco has hints of honey and dried fruits. There are one or two cigarette buds somewhere. They are not very close, but I can walk around the room and take a closer whiff of them.
Curtains have not been changed or washed in years. They are of heavy fabric and have gathered a lot of dust, dirt and smoke.

This probably doesn't sound like something one prefer to smell like, but it is actually very enjoyable and layered. It never smells like a fragrance, but the illusion of a cozy room holds up for the whole duration of this fragrance. Stunning creation.
 
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LinePlaneVolume

Well-known member
May 31, 2020
Okay. LiTA.

If MEM is a solid three dimensional object, LiTA is a room. This is not a fragrance, but a concrete real life place. Talking about notes here seems completely obsolete. It is a magnificent illusion and I prefer to talk about this illusion rather than dissect it and thus explain it away.

As I mentioned, LiTA is a room. It is a dusty and cozy and slighly musty space. There is something very pleasant and grounded in this aroma. Every house has its own scent, this reminds me of the scent of the house of my best friend in my childhood.

There was a party last night. Night full of intellectual discussions and deep friendship. They drank high quality cognac. Yes, there are also many stale half drank coffee mugs lying around, someone smoked a cigarette long time ago and very high quality pipe tobacco bag still lies open on the table. This tobacco has hints of honey and dried fruits. There are one or two cigarette buds somewhere. Usually not very close, but I can walk around the room and take a closer whiff of them.
Curtains have not been changed or washed in years. They are heavy fabric and have gathered a lot of dust, dirt and smoke.

This probably doesn't sound like something one prefer to smell like, but it is actually very enjoyable and layered. It never smells like a fragrance, but the illusion of a cozy room holds up for the whole duration of this fragrance. Stunning creation.
Interesting. I associate Lita not with a room, but with a leather jacket that had been well lived in, taking on similar qualities that you had mentioned by being out and about in the world over many years. Still... quite similar.
 

Johnny_Ludlow

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2004
There is always a risk of getting too excited over something relatively new. But after around eight wearings of MEM, I am starting to think that this could be one of the greatest fragrances I have ever experienced. Among with the likes of deep vintage Eau d'Hermes and Sycomore EdT.

This is like it was created to me. I am a lavender lover and an animalics lover. The way Gardoni ties these elements with various complex florals to create a coherent and tight yet incredibly multidimensional whole is completely stunning and unique. He is an architect by trade and also a true architect of perfumery.
 

Dr B1414

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2019
So, I've been really enjoying my sample of AG for the past 3 days now. This is really a beautiful perfume. I must say, it's nothing unique, I had much higher expectations for this 10 year anniversary. When I saw Antonio was doing this project together with Livio Scarpella I thought he'll go outside of his comfort zone and do something that features some new and puzzling clay-earthy accords, I thought he'll go all out for this. Then seeing the note breakdown I was kinda put off and didn't blind buy into it. Decided to get a sample though.

I think the way Antonio describes the perfume is spot on. At least on my skin, that's exactly how it unfolds. In the opening, you get a quick blast of citruses and backdrops of green and camphorous facets. These quickly fade away and you find yourself in a field of florals. Creamy, lush florals. I get Gardenia the most, which is a breath of fresh air after all the ylang-ylang, rose, tuberose, jasmine we get used to in perfume compositions. At the end of the field, you can already see (smell) the forest. The base to me is what really defines this perfume. It is present from the get-go, and it only makes itself more present as the perfume settles on the skin. Now you enter the forest, and it is very dense, mysterious, and bewitching. Lots of woods, dense, thick resins, dark mosses, and incense. This is what the perfume is for the most part of its life. The opening is a glimpse of light, the heart pulls you in, but the woody-resinous-mossy base is what AG is all about. To me, it is a woody-resinous-chypre. Everything that precedes the base, is just foreplay. Maybe the ylang lingers around for longer. I love the way it settles down. Heck, I love all its phases and transitions. It's very well-orchestrated, it has a clear direction and identity. It feels very serious. Very mature. I also love the way it performs. As an extrait, it stays closer to the skin. But the scent cloud is very dense. Longevity is at least 24 hours. I like it that way. Dense scent bubble around me, not going to share it with others lol. I find myself drawn more and more to perfumes that wear closer to the skin, instead of attention grabbers. After all, it's an art that I want to indulge in.
All in all, I think AG will definitely top MEM for my favorite Bogue. Missed on a bottle but I made sure beforehand it wouldn't pass by me in case I like it a lot. Luckily, my dear friends at Ecuacion have received from Antonio a bulk amount of AG and they currently offer 5 ml decants at a fair price. Already talked with Olivia to save 30ml for me and ship it into a sealed container. I'm going to transfer it into a glass bottle like the ones Ensar sells for his 30 ml perfumes (my favorite bottle design) and then seal it with a professional screwing machine. And voila, make my own AG bottle lol:). Now I only need to make some nice stickers.
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
To me, the most consistent impressions I get from AG, which keeping in mind is probably the most variable perfume I have ever smelled are as follows.

In the opening, I seem to get a minty mentholated and sparkling green citrusy feeling surrounding some white florals. This stage reminds me of parts of Gardelia, 07738 and Eau d'E in that you get the mentholated white florals (partially coming from picea mariana, gardenia and tuberose) from Gardelia, you get the rose (although here spiked with rose oxide that reminds us of where we have seen this note LiTa, Douluer and T-Rex although not particularly smelling like any of them) jasmine (and ylang ylang benzoin combo) from 07738 while also getting those sparkling green citrusy notes from Eau d'E.

The citrus notes here sometimes smell like lemon, grapefruit and orange, and also even more slightly smell like lime or bergamot (occasionally slight fruity notes - peach? strawberry? the start of banana custard?) The sparkling notes come from a flurry of aldehydes - bright waxy c9s and fatty lactonic c14s. It's almost like reading Slavoj Zizek in that so many names are being dropped, that you really have to be in-the-know to catch everything that's going on.

The florals are intense here: osmanthus gives us more of that peach note, magnolia pairs the citric notes from the top to the spicy violet we will smell in the drydown, creamy iris, the aforementioned rose, jasmine, tuberose and gardenia. We also get more fresh green waves coming from a gentle cyclamen note - the rose and lemon combo might actually be a geranium poking through at times, an herbal tea rose, ( more fresh and green notes from muguet?) There is also a somewhat plummy freesia note at this stage, although again this could be the dancing fruity elements mixing with the spicy resins and florals in the base.)

As this stage starts to fade into the next, you get a slightly pine-y, slightly boozy juniper note which bleeds into a lush Cedar note (now pulling citrus elements back out in order to recall O/E in some vague ways.) As we encounter these woods, we start to see the next major transformation as the fragrance gets warm and herbal to me, occasionally recalling sleepy time tea mixes that I've smelled before - you get very smooth and gentle lavender, a slightly camphoric rosemary, slightly lemony thyme, oregano, and a cooling eucalyptus paired with a very strong chamomile note that brings with it a very slight coumarinic quality, while also being its typical musky-herbal feel. There is also a somewhat strong phenolic caraway note here.

You can catch a glimpse of MEM here and there at this stage, especially as the Benzoin Bogue-aide is swirling about from start to finish. There is also a strong peppermint note here that pairs with warming spices like cardamom, cinnamon and a cool herbal (or slightly boozy depending on your associations) anise, but even moreso with a strong myrtle or laurel leaf making it somewhat deep green (you can smell a somewhat spicy or minty exterior, as if this is the underside of the mentholated minty notes from the opening. There is also a little bit of a green apple note at this stage - pulling down this continuous and shapeshifting green that shifts in and out from the front to the back, from the top to the base of the fragrance, without classifying this fragrance as a particularly emblematic 'green fragrance.') It smells vaguely citrusy still and slightly piney (maybe this is a frankincense note which appears much more clearly in the next stage, however the two don't smell as if they evolve from each other, hence the uncertainty.)

Throughout step one all the way down to this stage, there are very many piney, camphorous notes that shift from smelling more herbal, to grassy, to frankincensy. It's one of the most interesting woody notes of all time, and if there was a way to separate it from the rest of the juice (an impossibility no doubt) I would love to have a straight oil of this element that I perceive. There is at this stage a nice gentle musk wafting in - goat hair? costus? hyssop? (as a matter of fact, if this element is the hyssop it would make sense of the transition from the strong herbal affair to a musky and animalic character now showing itself) - paired with a slight earthy, semi-sweet nutmegy note. The earthiness here is paired with a very pretty vetiver note that is quite earthy, dry and somewhat leathery. You also get a nice artemisia or wormwood continuing to add to the slight licoricy booziness to the whole affair. This can, at points, remind one again of Gardelia, whose cognac note, because of the overall slurry of resins and florals becomes a variation of the Bogue-aide that we have all come to know.

There is a beautiful myrrh note here that is somewhat obscured by the muskiness of this element, and the fact that the musk moves in over top of a dense mossy and resin background. This area emphasizes again that chewy tonka note, and no doubt making more clear that ever present benzoin which bleeds into a lush vanilla, dry oppoponax, and an absolutely phenomenal creamy sandalwood which may be there ever since the start of the fragrance, but seems to join with so many other creamy and woody notes that it might very well be hard to notice. We also get here the very beautiful and spicy violet note referenced earlier coming into stark focus against the backdrop of a nice dry cacao note that joins into a really gorgeous styrax note (complete with its spicy, animallic and ambery undertones which pair well with a full yet not overpowering labdanum note.) We also get honey draped overtop of a very rich oakmoss that is resinous as all hell that, along with the strong aldehydes in the beginning this can bring to mind the beautiful MAAI. There's a nice spicy patchouli that has a very faint black pepper character to it. This element pairs with the cedar from earlier now joining a cypress accord that is just so beautiful, it gives one a break from all the pine and fir that one encounters throughout this affair, and draws ones attention to the beautiful sandalwood and juniper which have been present the whole time.

AG is a masterpiece, and yet despite reminding me of all these different Bogue fragrances, it never feels redundant or repetitious. In fact, as said above, it is probably the most shape-shifting, and exciting fragrance I've smelled in some time. My only gripe is that I feel like I can't do much else in a day that I want to wear it, because I want to smell it at every subtly shifting stage!
I'll shape this review a little more and then post it later on. Just wanted to share some thoughts after wearing it for maybe the 10th time.
 
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TNBLUEMIKE

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2013
Mem has been my runaway favorite from the house for sometime but the AG hype is all on course for me. AG is so captivating and enjoyable that Shadowartistxl explained it beautifully being so descriptive. Thank you so much for your thoughts. This has been a awesome wear. A definitive shape shifter to be sure.

 

Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
Wore 07738 today and while it is a nice frag, it makes me scratch my head around the DNA of Bogue. Originally, i thought it was chypres(green stuff), then it was white florals and Ylang after trying MeM. Now, trio of 07738, douleur and a small sample of AG - it seems its the rose oxide or whatever this semi fresh fruity note is.

What do you guys say Bogue DNA is?

Also - start of AG is really nice, green, somewhat dusty, herbal aroma. What other frqg of his smells like this?
Was it o/e?
 

Paddington

Marmalade Sandwich Eater
Basenotes Plus
Jun 17, 2021
Wore 07738 today and while it is a nice frag, it makes me scratch my head around the DNA of Bogue. Originally, i thought it was chypres(green stuff), then it was white florals and Ylang after trying MeM. Now, trio of 07738, douleur and a small sample of AG - it seems its the rose oxide or whatever this semi fresh fruity note is.

What do you guys say Bogue DNA is?

Also - start of AG is really nice, green, somewhat dusty, herbal aroma. What other frqg of his smells like this?
Was it o/e?
o/e has that menthol green citrus open to it

AG today Nice menthol and creaminess on open
 

Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
ALERT! ALERT!
Got my bottle of AG today and it leaked a little. I went on to press down the collar to crimp it better, and it had fair amount of movement. Check your bottles for it, as if yours is not fully crimped, perfume will evaporate out with time.
 

Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
AG is not at all what i expected. After receiving my bottle and giving it a full wear:
Opening is dry, green, a little musty but absolutely fantastic. This opening is very close to the green, rustic fragrance for men i am looking for. Pines, moss, herbs, bergamot come to my mind. Just excellent! Though not very long lasting, maybe 5 minutes, maybe 10.

After that - candy like florals pop out. And when i say candy - its not because they are sweet, but because they are ultra bright and with the added rose oxide, or whatever material he uses, it tints those florals into red/pink color. These flowers do remind me of OOOH, and rose oxide reminds me Douleur. No clove though, and its dialed down, thus exists in perfect harmony. Very summery in my opinion, playful and suits an easy going person.

Drydown to me signifies with the entrance of orris. As weird as it sounds because its not listed in the notes, that bright floral mid shifts to a slightly damp, makeup like orris, and collor association turns to light violet. Florals are not gone, no, they just settle down a bit, especially rose, and they get wrapped in the orris blanket. And thats how it finishes on me. Very very comforting scent, calming, like slowing down in the evening after busy daytime activities.

I dont get woods and moss and green in the drydown, seems that they are all at the top, so usual note pyramid show be upside down. Cant call this scent chypre at all....well...maybe a 5 minute chypre 😄
After that its all flowers, suitable for men and women.
Final verdict - its good, very good even. Shapeshifter, strong projection, excellent longevity with crisp materials.
 

Eilenberg

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2021
Sometimes I feel like I could sell all of my fragrance bottles altogether and just keep two for the rest of my life: LiTA for colder weather and MEM for warmer days.
 

Paddington

Marmalade Sandwich Eater
Basenotes Plus
Jun 17, 2021
SO from the stream
  1. Q n A - potential project in 2022 tbd
  2. Maai and mem have never been officially reformulated just the nature of working with mix media and sourcing of materials and the plan is to pretty much just go with the wave each batch will be slightly or very different and there will be a marker or something to indicate what batch it is.
  3. Following up he mentioned suppliers where from all over some being rather small and some are closed and gone
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
I managed to snag this screencap of Sig. Gardoni answering the question 'do you have favorite perfumes' with the answer 'I have been wearing Mr. Krabs from Spongebob lately.'
IMG-5878.png
 

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