Arquiste Nanban

hawk

Well-known member
Aug 8, 2009
Anyone tried Nanban by Arquiste? Any feedback about this one? or no one cares about Arquiste? I didn't care for their previous releases but this one has some interesting notes and even the bottle is different. Please post any info or feedback.
 

Darjeeling

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2012
Anyone tried Nanban by Arquiste? Any feedback about this one? or no one cares about Arquiste? I didn't care for their previous releases but this one has some interesting notes and even the bottle is different. Please post any info or feedback.

The scent looks interesting, and the name has the origin I suspected. While I understand the origin of the name, my immediate association with Nanban is with this dish
mainimg.jpg


Chicken Nanban
 

Marais

Semi-Retired Member
Basenotes Plus
Nov 2, 2011
I tried it recently, it is a very pleasant sandalwood scent, but to me, not worth the entry price. Worth a try.
 

Kaern

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 2, 2008
Arquiste have a coupla standouts imo -- the leather and the gourmandy one -- Aleksandr and .... Dulcis (can't remember full name)

I'll try Nanban when I get a chance -- that picture has made me hungry now
 

Buzzlepuff

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 27, 2005
Nanban top notes are: black pepper, saffron and black tea; middle notes are chinese osmanthus, coffee, myrhh and leather; base notes are olibanum, styrax, sandalwood, juniper berries and copaiba balm. This fragrance smells fantastic. The coffee note is noticeable amid a melange of dark spice, black tea, leather and woods. I tried it when passing the fragrance counter in Barneys NY and could not stop smelling my arm so I had to buy a bottle. I like it quite a bit. The scent is very sophisticated, earthy and complex and as well as smelling unique. Also I like the way it smells - very well done by Yann Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux. I like this one as much as these similar fragrances of this general type of scent such as: Oud Alif Shay & Blue, Coze by Parfumerie Generale, or Masque Montecristo. All these share some elements with Nanban. I am happy to have a bottle. I don't have any idea what the name refers to.
 

hawk

Well-known member
Aug 8, 2009
Thank you all for the feedback. Can this be described as "cloying" ? I mean look at those notes: Styrax, leather, coffee, copaiba balm and myrrh.
 

Marais

Semi-Retired Member
Basenotes Plus
Nov 2, 2011
Not cloying, no. Like others from this range, it isn't loud nor suffocatingly sweet.
 

Darjeeling

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2012
Thanks! Interesting, I didn't know- I don't own Epic man.

I think I only made the comment because both Diamondflame and I we're wearing Epic Man as our SotD and because I find it interesting how houses name, promote or package perfumes to try to give the impression of something exotic, etc.

I found it fascinating that in a recent thread here on what you'd name your house and perfume that most people went for something french despite being predominantly English speakers and from the US.

Perfume tropes
 
Last edited:

blackaroma

Well-known member
Apr 16, 2020
After trying it bought a bottle the very next day. Some of hese comments are very odd to me, I find nanban very heavy on Russian leather accord from top to the late dry down, the opening minutes have similarities with vintage Mitsouko (haven't tried side by side to tell how exactly) it almost feels a spicy chypre at first before going a totally different oriental, spicy, smoky leather path. The spices are also so beautifully done, complex but smooth, the myrrh and leather along saffron and sandalwood make for a creamy smooth smoky dry-down. I wouldn't call any note of Nanban "soft", it's as smooth as MJ but never soft. The olbanum and coffee make the spicy facet of Nanban smooth (the same way sandalwood and saffron did to myrrh and leather). Overall it's a very unique high quality perfume, very well balanced and in no way cloying or overbearing (as many perfumes with such note turn out). It's a perfume likable to the crowd and more lovely to the more trained noses. And the transition is actually on the more noticeable side. It's two different perfumes, a loud bold spicy black-tea (chypre) for 2 3 hours and a very sexy smooth one for the next 5 6 hours.
 

thrilledchilled

All Is Beautiful
Basenotes Plus
Nov 17, 2018
After trying it bought a bottle the very next day. Some of hese comments are very odd to me, I find nanban very heavy on Russian leather accord from top to the late dry down, the opening minutes have similarities with vintage Mitsouko (haven't tried side by side to tell how exactly) it almost feels a spicy chypre at first before going a totally different oriental, spicy, smoky leather path. The spices are also so beautifully done, complex but smooth, the myrrh and leather along saffron and sandalwood make for a creamy smooth smoky dry-down. I wouldn't call any note of Nanban "soft", it's as smooth as MJ but never soft. The olbanum and coffee make the spicy facet of Nanban smooth (the same way sandalwood and saffron did to myrrh and leather). Overall it's a very unique high quality perfume, very well balanced and in no way cloying or overbearing (as many perfumes with such note turn out). It's a perfume likable to the crowd and more lovely to the more trained noses. And the transition is actually on the more noticeable side. It's two different perfumes, a loud bold spicy black-tea (chypre) for 2 3 hours and a very sexy smooth one for the next 5 6 hours.

Very helpful observations. I am enjoying my bottle.
 

Buysblind

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2011
I'm wearing this today from my sample, I wish I had read this thread before ....

This is supposed to be leather scent, but all I get are soft resins? It smells nice (myrrh and incense with some coffee) but is somewhat underwhelming, with little development, and restricted sillage and duration (for this type of scent).

Sounds pretty boring....
 

Buysblind

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2011
To be fair that was one of those tiny vials that one would get from TwistedLily. Ideally I'd like to have a bit more of this, maybe try out from from a 1.5-2 ml sample. It's not bad based on my memory, but just not that interesting.

On an unrelated note - have you tried Mr. Burberry Indigo?

Yeah, pretty much everything's boring out of those .4ml twisted lily dab vials..lol.


And no, I have not. Your thoughts on it?
 

blackaroma

Well-known member
Apr 16, 2020
To be fair that was one of those tiny vials that one would get from TwistedLily. Ideally I'd like to have a bit more of this, maybe try out from from a 1.5-2 ml sample. It's not bad based on my memory, but just not that interesting.

Yeah, pretty much everything's boring out of those .4ml twisted lily dab vials..lol.

There was a thread here on how reviews based on little samples are not trustworthy and that the reviewer should tell if it's a sample review or 5 strong full wearing worth of a review. It was strongly opposed by some basenoters, but Nanban specially as a smooth perfume with hard to separate notes in dry down needs few big full wearings, and like all great art pieces it gets better the more you know it.
 

NickZee

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2014
There was a thread here on how reviews based on little samples are not trustworthy and that the reviewer should tell if it's a sample review or 5 strong full wearing worth of a review. It was strongly opposed by some basenoters, but Nanban specially as a smooth perfume with hard to separate notes in dry down needs few big full wearings, and like all great art pieces it gets better the more you know it.

I absolutely agree that people should disclose whether they own a bottle, testing off a strip or a spritz at the shop or using one of those darn dab vials that Luckyscent and twisted lily have cursed the world with.
 

RawM.I.A.

Wait, What's That Smell?!
Basenotes Plus
Jan 25, 2017
After trying it bought a bottle the very next day. Some of hese comments are very odd to me, I find nanban very heavy on Russian leather accord from top to the late dry down, the opening minutes have similarities with vintage Mitsouko (haven't tried side by side to tell how exactly) it almost feels a spicy chypre at first before going a totally different oriental, spicy, smoky leather path. The spices are also so beautifully done, complex but smooth, the myrrh and leather along saffron and sandalwood make for a creamy smooth smoky dry-down. I wouldn't call any note of Nanban "soft", it's as smooth as MJ but never soft. The olbanum and coffee make the spicy facet of Nanban smooth (the same way sandalwood and saffron did to myrrh and leather). Overall it's a very unique high quality perfume, very well balanced and in no way cloying or overbearing (as many perfumes with such note turn out). It's a perfume likable to the crowd and more lovely to the more trained noses. And the transition is actually on the more noticeable side. It's two different perfumes, a loud bold spicy black-tea (chypre) for 2 3 hours and a very sexy smooth one for the next 5 6 hours.

Well said, just picked up a bottle myself after testing.
 

slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
I have a sample on the way - lots of effusive praise for this. It sounds interesting, yet I'm also open to it being a massive let down. The 'story' that goes with it seems to be the biggest red flag; it sounds like style over substance and too many of the reviews I've scanned seem to refer to the narrative, which is as good as useless in my opinion when it comes to the actual conceptualisation of a fragrance.

Does anyone have any more thoughts on this? I have absolutely no idea when my sample is going to get here, it may not even arrive until near Christmas as it's coming from overseas, so I'd be interested in hearing thoughts and opinions on it from those who have either tried it, or own/ed it.
 

slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
I’m wearing it now. I love it.

Good to hear. If you've tried the new Amouage Overture Man, are they in any way similar? There's a shared description between both when reading reviews, although no one has compared them, and having tried the Amouage (in much anticipation) I found it to be pretty awful. Or, if not, how would you describe it/what would you compare it to?
 

slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
I can't say I've tried Wazamba.

Nanban - I'm not really impressed on first try. It smells like yet another saffron bomb on top of a dry, resinous myrrh. It's somewhat similar to Overture Man in all honesty, not massively, but there are definite similarities. Dry incense, quite bitter, spicy, but this has more to it - more florals, more sweetness, more labdanum. Will have to give it a few wears, it smells fairly complex in the base and so I don't want to go too hard on it given I've barely given it a fair shot, but it's not what I was hoping for, sadly.
 

slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
You might like to give it a go if you like Nanban. It's drier, more scorched, but if you like one you may like the other.
 

Melbourne Man

Well-known member
Sep 23, 2016
I can't say I've tried Wazamba.

Nanban - I'm not really impressed on first try. It smells like yet another saffron bomb on top of a dry, resinous myrrh. It's somewhat similar to Overture Man in all honesty, not massively, but there are definite similarities. Dry incense, quite bitter, spicy, but this has more to it - more florals, more sweetness, more labdanum. Will have to give it a few wears, it smells fairly complex in the base and so I don't want to go too hard on it given I've barely given it a fair shot, but it's not what I was hoping for, sadly.

I felt much the same way. It actually reminded me of perfume/s i had already tried, although i couldn't tell you specifically which.
 

Brooks Otterlake

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 12, 2019
Nanban is quite different from what I expected. It, like other Arquiste scents (El, Anima Dulcis) has something of that sort of old-school-made-new-school vibe some folks associate with Roja.

This isn't a smoky leather in the way folks have sometimes described it (folks on Fragrantica described it as being like Laudano Nero or L'Air du Désert Marocain, which is baffling to me).

It opens fairly floral, and you get some spices with a peppery effect right off of the top, but this is not aggressively spicy in an aromatic way. The spices are there, but they are largely shifting in and out of the creamy, woody mid/base. The incense (myrrh, mostly) is increasingly discernable, even dominant, but is also gentle. I get a kind of "old church"/"old library" feeling here.

It's quite nice, but I was expecting something more "spice market"-y, whereas this is a slowly warming sandalwood scent with spice and incense wafting in and out as it develops.
 
Last edited:

Latest News

Top