Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

[Paddington]

any Ouds in those heart notes?

HEART NOTES:
neroli, magnolia, tonka, touch of various ouds, frankincense, Mexican cedar, patchouli, Malaysian propolis

 

[Cheetah1919]

HEART NOTES:
neroli, magnolia, tonka, touch of various ouds, frankincense, Mexican cedar, patchouli, Malaysian propolis

Hmmmm is right! Thanks

 

[bl00drunzcold]

 

[james1051]

Looks like this one is going to be soapy and sweet. Initial thought: play it safe with 10mL

 

[Dothraki]

Just so we can all see them together

Top:
Bitter mandarin leaves, Japanese yuzu,
bergamot, orange, white ambergris

Mid:
Neroli, magnolia, tonka,
oud, frankincense, mexican cedar,
patchouli, malaysian propolis

Base:
Myrrh, vanilla, saffron, castoreum

 

[Singularious]

Magnolia and patchouli heart notes? Count me in! Neroli? Yep! I’m here for it.

I’m interested in what Mexican cedar would smell like. This tree is from the more central Mexico/rainforest area. Sounds really interesting.

I don't know what that is either, but I'm guessing it's what I know as Cuban cedar, which is humidor materials and is tropical. But...it could also be similar to Texas cedar, just a few hundred miles south, and not tropical at all. Actually not a cedar at all, but a juniper. I'm guessing the former, but who knows as Texas cedar is oft used in perfumery (it's not good for much of anything else) as well.

 

[FragSyndrome]

Edit: post deleted. Dothraki beat me to it.

 

[Dothraki]

I‘m interested in how the ambergris plays in this composition. The Bergamot, frankincense and Ambergris….hope they dominate lol.

 

[Paddington]

well seems like something i can dump on this summer so i guess il get i dont want to skip again YOLO

 

[Castingshadows]

I don't know what that is either, but I'm guessing it's what I know as Cuban cedar, which is humidor materials and is tropical. But...it could also be similar to Texas cedar, just a few hundred miles south, and not tropical at all. Actually not a cedar at all, but a juniper. I'm guessing the former, but who knows as Texas cedar is oft used in perfumery (it's not good for much of anything else) as well.

This is what I was thinking because I basically live in Mexico and we have juniper everywhere out here but when I looked online it said it was a pink cedar type wood aka Cupressus lusitanica that belongs to the Cyprus family which is different from Texas cedar (juniperus ashei) as it belongs to the Juniperus family. So itll be interesting to smell a high elevation tropical cedar/Cyprus note! Crazy right?

 

[Castingshadows]

I‘m interested in how the ambergris plays in this composition. The Bergamot, frankincense and Ambergris….hope they dominate lol.

Top notes usually disappear the quickest and white ambergris is more of a fixative anyways with a gentle creamy aroma so I can’t imagine they have a dominant presence throughout the life of the fragrance but I’d imagine it’ll make for an incredibly rich but fleeting opening that segues into a floral ouddy heart. I think the top notes will be sparking, musky citrus along with an intense bitter biting aspect along with clean and camphorus/minty frankincense since Taha typically showcases a very clean and refined use of incense.

 

[Singularious]

This is what I was thinking because I basically live in Mexico and we have juniper everywhere out here but when I looked online it said it was a pink cedar type wood aka Cupressus lusitanica that belongs to the Cyprus family which is different from Texas cedar (juniperus ashei) as it belongs to the Juniperus family. So itll be interesting to smell a high elevation tropical cedar/Cyprus note! Crazy right?

That is so funny, CS. We must live near one another. My guess was yet another tropical wood called "cedro" (doesn't really narrow it either!) they make cigar boxes/humidors out of.

So many misnamed cedars out there!

But it'll be interesting to see if it's more of that "dry box" cedar or more of the "alpine air" (high alpha-pinene) type.

 

[Castingshadows]

But it'll be interesting to see if it's more of that "dry box" cedar or more of the "alpine air" (high alpha-pinene) type.

You know that’s an interesting thought because I don’t think I’ve seen any perfumers use this material. I wonder if it’s a custom distillation because I haven’t seen any essential oils out there either? Also what’s with all the use of “cedar” to describe everything that isn’t cedar hahah?

 

[Dothraki]

Top notes usually disappear the quickest and white ambergris is more of a fixative anyways with a gentle creamy aroma so I can’t imagine they have a dominant presence throughout the life of the fragrance but I’d imagine it’ll make for an incredibly rich but fleeting opening that segues into a floral ouddy heart. I think the top notes will be sparking, musky citrus along with an intense bitter biting aspect along with clean and camphorus/minty frankincense since Taha typically showcases a very clean and refined use of incense.

I’ll have to disagree with you on this one. White ambergris can come across as quite pungent and sometimes almost minty in a sense. An example of the Ambergris playing a big note role and top notes lasting as dominant notes for a long time would be SLG, Tigerlust (ambergris stands out as a main note especially slg), Le Cheikh Boheme, Al Jazzab, Kinam Attar….but especially LCB, those top notes stick around.

 

[JonoBorneo]

I’ll have to disagree with you on this one. White ambergris can come across as quite pungent and sometimes almost minty in a sense. An example of the Ambergris playing a big note role and top notes lasting as dominant notes for a long time would be SLG, Tigerlust (ambergris stands out as a main note especially slg), Le Cheikh Boheme, Al Jazzab, Kinam Attar….but especially LCB, those top notes stick around.

The myth of white ambergris is that it’s all some quantifiable “type” of ambergris, when in reality, ambergris is one huge spectrum, yes there are pieces that are white, grey, gold and black, but the scent of each individual piece is unique, and never identical.

 

[Cheetah1919]

The myth of white ambergris is that it’s all some quantifiable “type” of ambergris, when in reality, ambergris is one huge spectrum, yes there are pieces that are white, grey, gold and black, but the scent of each individual piece is unique, and never identical.

I’ll still take white!

 

[Dothraki]

The myth of white ambergris is that it’s all some quantifiable “type” of ambergris, when in reality, ambergris is one huge spectrum, yes there are pieces that are white, grey, gold and black, but the scent of each individual piece is unique, and never identical.

Yes exactly. So much time and variables at play between being excreted and collected. Love it all though!

 

[Singularious]

The myth of white ambergris is that it’s all some quantifiable “type” of ambergris, when in reality, ambergris is one huge spectrum, yes there are pieces that are white, grey, gold and black, but the scent of each individual piece is unique, and never identical.

The longer I'm in the "game", the more a appreciate this with pretty much any material.

Variety is the smell of life.

 

[bklow]

The myth of white ambergris is that it’s all some quantifiable “type” of ambergris, when in reality, ambergris is one huge spectrum, yes there are pieces that are white, grey, gold and black, but the scent of each individual piece is unique, and never identical.

Wasn't sure which ambergris post to quote, but thinking you may know the answer to my question.

If you put white ambergris in a fragrance, how do you make it a top note in one fragrance and a base note in another? It seems to be more frequently listed as a base note. Is it just the concentration/percentage in the formula? A lighter dose fades away earlier and is therefore called a top note, whereas a larger dose sticks around through the base notes?

Or, is it that the qualities of the unique piece(s) used for the specific composition determine whether it acts as a top, middle, or base note?

Maybe some of both?

Thanks

 

[Olympe de Gouges]

This is not at all what I expected and I am so frikkin excited ! It looks so good ! I am guessing the overall effect might be something like creamy citrus woody-amber vaguely floral? ...which I guess sort of describes a good 30% of all perfumes actually and is not a very good estimate ^^ I really like how they sort of intentionally played everyone by knowing everyone would expect an oud with a little something extra or whatever because it is TS and RA and instead turned that on its head.

Also I have never heard him speak before and I am not exactly sure what I was expecting, but I was not at all expecting that to be Taha Syed's accent. He sounded like an American. I really have no opinion at all on that other than if you had asked me to guess his accent I would not have guessed American. Although I realize I actually have no idea his background at all other than I thought I read somewhere he was from Saudi Arabia.

And I really like the bottle. Or more than the bottle I like the passion RA takes in exploring packaging ideas. The resin cap may very well end up being fragile and a bad idea, but I really appreciate the excitement he shows when talking about the bottles, the same way he was excited about the classic-style bottles. Who knows, maybe the resin thing will work out really well and become a new thing in perfumery.

I am sure he is busy but honestly I would definitely listen to a 20-30 minute weekly podcast of RA talking about whatever random perfume things happen to be on his mind: what he is working on, perfume ingredients, random brand/specific perfume that caught his interest, whatever. I really enjoy the sort of random chat youtube videos.

 

[Singularious]

He does sound American and I assumed he was. I know little to nothing of him or his work.

Not that it's relevant, but he also appears a handsome looking fella.

 

[JonoBorneo]

Wasn't sure which ambergris post to quote, but thinking you may know the answer to my question.

If you put white ambergris in a fragrance, how do you make it a top note in one fragrance and a base note in another? It seems to be more frequently listed as a base note. Is it just the concentration/percentage in the formula? A lighter dose fades away earlier and is therefore called a top note, whereas a larger dose sticks around through the base notes?

Or, is it that the qualities of the unique piece(s) used for the specific composition determine whether it acts as a top, middle, or base note?

Maybe some of both?

Thanks

I think it’s a little bit of marketing, and a little bit of formulating, using aromatics that don’t overpower something as delicate as white ambergris might help the aroma showcase in the top notes…but generally speaking, ambergris isn’t ever loud u less it’s the fresh sticky, animalic black variety. So Long story short, I’m just as curious as you….

 

[AZsmells]

He does sound American and I assumed he was. I know little to nothing of him or his work.

Not that it's relevant, but he also appears a handsome looking fella.

Taha lived near Toronto before moving to Malaysia. I had the honor of meeting him once and he is truly a great guy.
I am excited for this perfume but not what I was expecting. I was hoping for some more oud but oh well. I have my alarm set for Saturday.

 

[JonoBorneo]

Taha lived near Toronto before moving to Malaysia. I had the honor of meeting him once and he is truly a great guy.
I am excited for this perfume but not what I was expecting. I was hoping for some more oud but oh well. I have my alarm set for Saturday.

Lmao I was thinking the 28th was Sunday all week

 

[james1051]

Wasn't sure which ambergris post to quote, but thinking you may know the answer to my question.

If you put white ambergris in a fragrance, how do you make it a top note in one fragrance and a base note in another? It seems to be more frequently listed as a base note. Is it just the concentration/percentage in the formula? A lighter dose fades away earlier and is therefore called a top note, whereas a larger dose sticks around through the base notes?

Or, is it that the qualities of the unique piece(s) used for the specific composition determine whether it acts as a top, middle, or base note?

Maybe some of both?

Thanks

I assumed (could be way off) that the other listed top notes--and I forget what they were--have been codistilled with white ambergris

 

[Dothraki]

I assumed (could be way off) that the other listed top notes--and I forget what they were--have been codistilled with white ambergris

I think ambergris is always tinctured, not distilled. I could be wrong though.

 

[JonoBorneo]

I assumed (could be way off) that the other listed top notes--and I forget what they were--have been codistilled with white ambergris

I don’t think co-distilling ambergris would ever yield a good result, and it might be rather expensive to experiment with. Even a 250gram piece could cost upwards of $3,000, and distillations usually require more along the lines of 1-2 kilograms at minimum. Additionally, the delicate aromatics could be completely lost in distillation.

Maybe you’re thinking of a co-absolute?

I don’t think the top notes were necessarily processed together in such way, they’re probably simply listed as top-notes because they’re perceived first.

 

[Dothraki]

, they’re probably simply listed as top-notes because they’re perceived first.

that’s always my assumption. And sometimes it’s an accord effect too I think, like maybe theres no pear but list pear as a top note because of an illusion of pear?

Does that happen? Or are listed notes always 100% actual ingredients if it’s not listed as an accord?

 

[Singularious]

I think ambergris is always tinctured, not distilled. I could be wrong though.

Tincture or maceration, for sure. Perhaps other methods, but those are the only two I have used as an ingredient.

 

[Olympe de Gouges]

that’s always my assumption. And sometimes it’s an accord effect too I think, like maybe theres no pear but list pear as a top note because of an illusion of pear?

Does that happen? Or are listed notes always 100% actual ingredients if it’s not listed as an accord?

The listed accords do not have any rules or regulations. Some brands lean towards noting the ideas of the scent or what they want you to focus on others are much more literal/descriptive. But it is entirely up to the perfumer. The example par excellence is probably O Hira which only lists fossilized amber as the notes even though there is definitely a lot more than just one amber material and it almost certainly contains no fossilized amber. And if Europe lets Stephane Humbert Lucas do that, I cannot imagine anywhere else would try to put rules on it.

Sort of like how some fashion houses do runways that are literally only the clothes you can actually buy and wear (like Chanel) while others will défiler fantastic and unwearable to market the ideas behind the collection mixed in with pieces that will actually be sold (like Thom Browne).

Not to mention the whole technical accuracy issues of designer companies releasing entirely synthetic perfumes made of ambroxan, timbersilk, and givescone, but the notes say ambergris, cedar, and rose

 

[Castingshadows]

I think it’s a little bit of marketing, and a little bit of formulating, using aromatics that don’t overpower something as delicate as white ambergris might help the aroma showcase in the top notes…but generally speaking, ambergris isn’t ever loud u less it’s the fresh sticky, animalic black variety. So Long story short, I’m just as curious as you….

This is why I have a feeling the effect will be more textural in nature versus the scent. Ambergris has such a distinct textural quality it imparts on florals and I’m excited to experience that in the top notes. If it’s a noticeable aroma cool! But this doesn’t seem to be an ambergris centric fragrance. Id also imagine the heavy castoruem maceration dominates the drydown.

 

[Singularious]

Id also imagine the heavy castoruem maceration dominates the drydown.

This castoreum is another thing I'm curious about. One of the very few gripes I have about some of my favorite ALDs is that there is just a touch too much castoreum for me in the dry down. It can sometimes remind me of cleaning out an old abandoned, rodent-tinged cabin. Been there.

Wondering if Taha's involvement might mean a lighter hand with the beaver.

Different strokes. But I also wonder how much that same castoreum adds depth and staying power to other parts of the ALD perfumes I love.

 

[Dothraki]

In all reality it’s probably not going to smell like anything that any of us are picturing lol. The curiosity is killing me. When I get that bottle I’m gonna plug my nose, throw on 3 fat sprays, then go to a different part of the house before unplugging my nose to check it out full glory. I can’t wait!

 

[Scent Detective]

I completely enjoyed that video with RA and Taha. I love the concept and idea for this perfume and can't wait to experience what they've accomplished and see what their vision of an Oud Tree Blossom might smell like if they actually did have a smell. What a fun concept. I'm a sucker for creativity like that! Bring it on!

 

[Xcaliber6685]

In all reality it’s probably not going to smell like anything that any of us are picturing lol. The curiosity is killing me. When I get that bottle I’m gonna plug my nose, throw on 3 fat sprays, then go to a different part of the house before unplugging my nose to check it out full glory. I can’t wait!

It looks like a great Spring/Summer/Fall scent profile for sure. Just hope it isn't going to be too powdery

 

[FragSyndrome]

I love the Areej style powder. Civet De Nuit had an absolutely gorgeous powder and texture. Maybe I’m just a noob but I’m not really seeing where we’d get powder from in this one.

 

[Dothraki]

I love the Areej style powder. Civet De Nuit had an absolutely gorgeous powder and texture. Maybe I’m just a noob but I’m not really seeing where we’d get powder from in this one.

Probably the Myrrh…I also love the RA powder but hoping it’s not big in this one.

 

[Dothraki]

It looks like a great Spring/Summer/Fall scent profile for sure. Just hope it isn't going to be too powdery

Or too sweet. Those base notes

 

[Mak-7]

Or too sweet. Those base notes

I think this one will be a lighter perfume that's a bit more green and kinam like. That's the thing I caught, that perfume is similar to his green kinam distillation in its flowery aroma. So he is just reinforcing the base, but it shouldn't be anything crazy.
The darkest I think this perfume will be is if Khmer kinam and Chinese our were mixed together.

 

[Dothraki]

I think this one will be a lighter perfume that's a bit more green and kinam like. That's the thing I caught, that perfume is similar to his green kinam distillation in its flowery aroma. So he is just reinforcing the base, but it shouldn't be anything crazy.
The darkest I think this perfume will be is if Khmer kinam and Chinese our were mixed together.

I hope you’re right. And it’s funny I literally just watched that portion of the video again and noticed him making that comparison, so I bet you’re on the money with that prediction.