Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

Dothraki

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2013
Clarification requested: what do you guys and girls mean under challenging?
Challenging because there are many layers that you need time to properly examine and understand?
Or
Challenging as if its a "stinky" or "old fashioned" perfume that is not fitting in modern times?
Some of the talks got me a bit confused.
None of ALD are challenging in the meaning "stinky" to me. Maai, Diaghilev, zhen....you name it. Only frags i am a little conscious about wearing are Absolue pour le soir, oudh infini by dusita and i suppose emperor hind. Thats it.

I would say “challenging” would have 2 meanings...one for us (being able to deconstruct and turn accords into the individual ingredients) and another for “public approval” which would be anything that smells odd to someone that has never experienced real Oud, musk, vetiver, etc.
 

Xcaliber6685

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 18, 2020
Clarification requested: what do you guys and girls mean under challenging?
Challenging because there are many layers that you need time to properly examine and understand?
Or
Challenging as if its a "stinky" or "old fashioned" perfume that is not fitting in modern times?
Some of the talks got me a bit confused.
None of ALD are challenging in the meaning "stinky" to me. Maai, Diaghilev, zhen....you name it. Only frags i am a little conscious about wearing are Absolue pour le soir, oudh infini by dusita and i suppose emperor hind. Thats it.


I was under the impression that it was in the context of off-putting instead of complexity, to the nose of the unfamiliar (or outsiders)....to the general public so to speak, who normally would frown upon these musks, ouds, animalic and other notes. For instance, W&P2 would be challenging to all the "outsiders", but not to me, I found it special, addicting, alluring, not very complex, but very unique, i love the funky stuff, while most outsiders would absolutely be appalled or disgusted by it. Another example, NFU was challenging to me in the beginning, because I couldn't connect the dots as to what exactly I was smelling due to the extremely rare ingredients that is not generally available or being used in most compositions, it was certainly complex, with many layers and transitions and notes shifting, it was outside of the norm, and even off-putting to me at first, but the challenging part was overcome, once my olfactory adjusted to it and able to appreciate it.
 

Oud Dude

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 22, 2018
Nice detailed impression. Are you picking up any Anise or black licorice type note in the mids?? I swear I’m getting a ton of it but haven’t seen it mentioned.

I’m not but that doesn’t mean it won’t happen. Oddly enough it wasn’t until my second day with it that the tobacco became distinct from the leather and smoke for me.
 

JBS1

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2016
I don't find it challenging whatsoever, Ottoman Empire, W&P, AdN, Oud Luwak, Atlantic Ambergris were all much more challenging, IMO.

I think the most challenging for me was Inverno Russo.
I didn't know what to make of it at first, Now, of course, I do enjoy it.
Been sampling some of the recent decants I got from strifeknot.
Russian Musk ll, Oud Zhen, Manly & Ottoman Empire lll .
I have on OElll right now. I love it.
Oud Zhen has this nice creamy sandalwood and slightly smokey oud. I very much enjoy it.
Manly's good. I certainly will appreciate wearing it.
Russian Musk ll is loud and lasts on me. 4 hours out and I can still smell it easily at arm's length.
I could never put three sprays of this one on. The patchouli, cloves, and oakmoss combined pound off my skin at that point.
Lasted forever.
It's Oud Zhen and Ottoman Empire lll that ties first.
Manly tries to keep up with and finishes.
Russian Musk ll sillage can still be noticed at the track even as we speak.
 
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Dothraki

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2013
I’ve found that for me, the saffron in Oud Zhen is where the magic comes from. I never knew how much I loved saffron until getting beautiful Zhenified blasts of it straight into my brain. In my opinion this is a saffron scent supported by everything else. At times it smells like burning agarwood chips but lately the saffron has been stealing the show.
 

Castingshadows

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2020
I’ve found that for me, the saffron in Oud Zhen is where the magic comes from. I never knew how much I loved saffron until getting beautiful Zhenified blasts of it straight into my brain. In my opinion this is a saffron scent supported by everything else. At times it smells like burning agarwood chips but lately the saffron has been stealing the show.

Have you tried Ahom Oud’s Zaffran Tabac? It’s ridiculous how intense the saffron is. I’ve been loving and craving saffron lately as well. It’s a misunderstood material that’s for sure. All of your praise of Oud Zhen has me thinking about buying a decant now especially if it’s saffron forward.
 

FragSyndrome

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
When I really dig in to Oud Zhen, slow down, take it in and analyze it, it is absolutely fantastic. I just get lost in the deep, dark oud and animatics. However, when I wear it casually and don't give the scent much thought, I can't help but shake the BBQ Sauce association from the wafts that come and go.
It is a deeply enjoyable scent when I can give it the focus it deserves but when I worn with disregard, I find it's complexity is lost and wasted. My conclusion is that Oud Zhen is truly an enthusiast's scent that can't be enjoyed effortlessly as much as some others out there. For that reason - I'm going to classify it as a "challenging" scent.
 

Dothraki

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2013
Have you tried Ahom Oud’s Zaffran Tabac? It’s ridiculous how intense the saffron is. I’ve been loving and craving saffron lately as well. It’s a misunderstood material that’s for sure. All of your praise of Oud Zhen has me thinking about buying a decant now especially if it’s saffron forward.

I haven’t tried that but since you’re in the same zone as me with the saffron I’d probably be smart to check it out. Have you tried Oud Zhen at all? It took me a good handful of wearings to start to “get it” at first I got burnt cacao and burnt plastic...then I got cement floor in a musty garage or basement...few more wearings it changed to a perfect replica of burning Agarwood. Now I’m just realizing the tons of saffron and how everything plays with it. I’ll pm you.

When I really dig in to Oud Zhen, slow down, take it in and analyze it, it is absolutely fantastic. I just get lost in the deep, dark oud and animatics. However, when I wear it casually and don't give the scent much thought, I can't help but shake the BBQ Sauce association from the wafts that come and go.
It is a deeply enjoyable scent when I can give it the focus it deserves but when I worn with disregard, I find it's complexity is lost and wasted. My conclusion is that Oud Zhen is truly an enthusiast's scent that can't be enjoyed effortlessly as much as some others out there. For that reason - I'm going to classify it as a "challenging" scent.

Yes definitely, there’s a few I can wear just out and about through the day like Musk Lave or Grandenia or even SG but Oud Zhen does need that sort of uninterrupted indulgence attention. I also find it challenging too. The way the ingredients all work together but still can be deconstructed with some time and nose detecting still keeps me interested too.
 

oudaddict

Well-known member
Feb 2, 2017
I think my skin turns some ALD scents super powdery on my skin. I think that’s why I never enjoyed War & Peace like everyone else does. Tonight I’m experiencing the same thing w/ Siberian Summer. I asked someone and they said I smell like baby powder. So confirmed. Yikes.

Is it not the musk though that people are associating with powder (talcum powder?)? What is intended by powdery?
 

Castingshadows

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2020
I think my skin turns some ALD scents super powdery on my skin. I think that’s why I never enjoyed War & Peace like everyone else does. Tonight I’m experiencing the same thing w/ Siberian Summer. I asked someone and they said I smell like baby powder. So confirmed. Yikes.

I wish I had that problem. My skin likes to amplify the urine notes 10x.
 

Dothraki

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2013
I think my skin turns some ALD scents super powdery on my skin. I think that’s why I never enjoyed War & Peace like everyone else does. Tonight I’m experiencing the same thing w/ Siberian Summer. I asked someone and they said I smell like baby powder. So confirmed. Yikes.

That powder is part of what I love so much in ALDs. W&PII would not be one of my favorites without it, the profile would be so different. The most powdery to me is Grandenia...it’s phenominal. Aside from other ingredients that come across as powder W&PII also has a high quality orris helping it.
 

Diamond Joe

Well-known member
Feb 5, 2019
I’ve found that for me, the saffron in Oud Zhen is where the magic comes from. I never knew how much I loved saffron until getting beautiful Zhenified blasts of it straight into my brain. In my opinion this is a saffron scent supported by everything else. At times it smells like burning agarwood chips but lately the saffron has been stealing the show.

Wow, I don't get *any* saffron from Oud Zhen. I get an interplay between the sweet/ambery tolu balsam and the smoky oud, with some animalics lingering around the fringes and some creamy sandalwood. NO saffron whatsoever...

Fragrantica backs up my experience, with saffron being the lowest voted of all the listed notes. Really not sure how you're getting this as a "saffron scent". I just don't get it.
 

Dothraki

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2013
Wow, I don't get *any* saffron from Oud Zhen. I get an interplay between the sweet/ambery tolu balsam and the smoky oud, with some animalics lingering around the fringes and some creamy sandalwood. NO saffron whatsoever...

Fragrantica backs up my experience, with saffron being the lowest voted of all the listed notes. Really not sure how you're getting this as a "saffron scent". I just don't get it.

It’s there...I didn’t see it for a couple months but it’s very much there in what seems like a nice hefty dose. Once you smell it you’ll notice it more and more until realizing it’s huuuuge in Oud Zhen. He used Indian saffron maybe Kashmir I think it was his own distillation. (Edit: or tincture or however he extracts it)
 

Dothraki

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2013
I mean I don't pretend that my plebeian nose is anything but, but I still smell absolutely zero saffron, so for someone to say "its a saffron scent" is quite shocking to me.

Sometimes, especially in some ALD compositions they can be difficult to deconstruct, or just need more time with it. Oud Zhen is a very complex composition and not easy to pick apart at first. There’s a lot of trickery going on with how these ingredients play with each other.
 

Theholyfilament

Well-known member
Jul 4, 2014
I must admit that after 3 or 4 wears of Manly I am getting a bit bored of it. I was trying to place the far dry down and eventually came up with Bogart Witness, both are very very similar to my nose. Definitely glad I scooped the 10 instead of the 30 ml.

Alternately, I revisited my OE3 the other day and it smells way deeper and richer than I remembered it. I went from being happy to being completely smitten. It may be tied with SG and W&P2 for my number one ALD :)
 

Xcaliber6685

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 18, 2020
Still not sure what I'm smelling in the OE3, I've worn it at least 10 times now, already went through like 1/5 of the bottle and still can't recall what notes were in it, wearing 4 sprays right now, getting some sort of citrusy rose and Frangipani type deal, it's like a floral scent trying to be Grandenia, still got a bit of that fat lady vibe, but it's no longer making me cringe, like the first time I had it on, it's kinda pleasant and much easier to wear now than I remembered it.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2019
Still not sure what I'm smelling in the OE3, I've worn it at least 10 times now, already went through like 1/5 of the bottle and still can't recall what notes were in it, wearing 4 sprays right now, getting some sort of citrusy rose and Frangipani type deal, it's like a floral scent trying to be Grandenia, still got a bit of that fat lady vibe, but it's no longer making me cringe, like the first time I had it on, it's kinda pleasant and much easier to wear now than I remembered it.

I absolutely loathed earlier versions of OE and eventually it just flipped in my brain to a hard love.
 

Xcaliber6685

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 18, 2020
I absolutely loathed earlier versions of OE and eventually it just flipped in my brain to a hard love.

I can certainly see the OE3 going in that direction, definitely like it a lot more now than when i first got it, either my nose got adjusted to it, or the juice macerated nicely. I'm glad I never get rid of it for sure. :-D
 

FragSyndrome

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
I can certainly see the OE3 going in that direction, definitely like it a lot more now than when i first got it, either my nose got adjusted to it, or the juice macerated nicely. I'm glad I never get rid of it for sure. :-D

Glad you’re enjoying it. I hated OE3 so passionately that I’m glad I sold it. No regrets.
 

Xcaliber6685

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 18, 2020
Glad you’re enjoying it. I hated OE3 so passionately that I’m glad I sold it. No regrets.

it was bad in the beginning, but much better now, there's some mysterious element from the OE3 that made me keep coming back for it. OE3 was weak sauce when I first got it, had very little projection and longevity, but now it is getting nuclear just like all other ALD. 4 sprays is way too much now, it's getting cloying and choking me out, i still have no idea how in the hell did Russian Adam pulled off 40+ sprays without wearing an oxygen mask, I would have fainted right then and there with over 40 sprays. lol
 

FragSyndrome

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2016
seeing manlys being dumped on the Facebook left and right
I'm not on FB but that's what I heard.
I did get a 10ml bottle second hand for a very good deal and while I like the opening, I'm not a fan of the fragrance. It's abrasive and immature. By immature, I mean what someone in their early 20's might wear and tell themselves that it's a 'mature' grownup fragrance when they in fact have no life experience and no idea what they're talking about.

Honestly, it's not even worth the $5/ml I paid for it.
I hope this is a lesson for Russian Adam. Next time - don't sell other people's compositions under your own brand. And don't do business with your family. Keep your personal and professional life separate.
 

Paddington

Marmalade Sandwich Eater
Basenotes Plus
Jun 17, 2021
I'm not on FB but that's what I heard.
I did get a 10ml bottle second hand for a very good deal and while I like the opening, I'm not a fan of the fragrance. It's abrasive and immature. By immature, I mean what someone in their early 20's might wear and tell themselves that it's a 'mature' grownup fragrance when they in fact have no life experience and no idea what they're talking about.

Honestly, it's not even worth the $5/ml I paid for it.
I hope this is a lesson for Russian Adam. Next time - don't sell other people's compositions under your own brand. And don't do business with your family. Keep your personal and professional life separate.
im glad i skipped it
 

pluran

Well-known member
Mar 2, 2006
I love Manly. Wear it all the time. I haven't smelled Comme des Garcons 2 Man (hmm) or Gucci pour Homme (2003) in a long time, but it feels like a better, more natural and altogether more satisfying version of both. Lately I alternate it with Sycomore EDT, vintage Patou pour Homme, Homeros and Oud Zhen. It might not advance the art of perfumery, but it's a good one.
 

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