Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

[Diamondflame]

Presentation is important to me, so I've thought about old vs. new. Overall I think the new presentation fits the new scents better. The older scents and presentation seem more raw and rustic to me while the new scents and presentation seem more opulent. I too really liked the rounded bottles of the old ones though. I thought I would really miss the wooden caps, but the new metal ones are fine and do fit with the larger, square bottles better. I also really like the metal plates in place of the sticker labels. I actually took some pics comparing old and new, but ended up not posting them because I don't think many of us care too much about presentation. But, I really appreciate that Russian Adam put some thought into it.

Hey, do us all a favour and post these pictures, will you? Presentation matters to me especially if I'm considering a full bottle purchase. :smiley:

 

[Bangkok Hound]

Hey, do us all a favour and post these pictures, will you? Presentation matters to me especially if I'm considering a full bottle purchase. :smiley:

Ok, pic quality isn't great, but you get the idea. Here they are with my comments:

New box just like the sample box. It's also bigger as you can see. Much nicer.

New bottle is larger (not in volume of course) and square/angular. Some bottles from the first three were also square, but I don't know if they were the same as these. Like sobejjj, I also really like how the old ones feel in the hand. You can really tell a difference in the labels. Metal plate vs. paper sticker = a big win for the new bottles. They're not thin aluminum either (maybe brass?)

The new caps are metal (I don't know what the top part is, but it feels like a polished stone- probably not though) and are heavy. I think they look good on the bigger square bottles. I do especially like the carved logo on the old wooden caps.

The logo is etched onto the top of the atomizer on the new ones, which I think is a nice detail.

 

[exoticscents]

Thank you dear friends for the kind comments. Really boosts me up.

Sotd is Inverno Russo. As is typical with Ouds and concentrated natural perfume oils or attars, this needs a proper listening/studying. Otherwise it can be quite tricky. Overwhelming cloud of chocolate laden musk. Its warm and caresses the skin like silky velvet. Deer Musk at its civil best. At this point it resembles good old Siberian Musk which is one of favs. But after one hour the metallic mineral tones start coming up soon joined by clean and crisp suede notes. There is a good dose of sweet powderiness too with a bit of mustiness coming from the Oud. The Oud here is a funky chinese one I think the Hainan Arabi which I own and it has a greay tenacity. Sweet floral minty profile. I have put about 4 sprays of it and its still not heavy or cloying at 31 degrees celcius. I am extremely sensitive to harsh smells or overwhelming leather based scents. But this is something unique. I love classic Chypre like Roja s Diaghilev and stuff like that lol. This is fine to my fussy nose; not so Avant Garde. More Suede than leather. But there s a dominant note of damp oakmoss throughout. It is quite unisex and the whiffs are regal. However, this is like abstract art with no common link between top mid and bottom. But at the same time it also means its unpredictable. Lets see what aging will do to this. Cos my Oud Zen has become ultrasexy with aging ahaha. Have a good day everyone. Would love to hear your thoughts.

 

[bewithme]

NHAT DANG at facebook group Fragrance Swap is decanting all 4 frags for cheaper prices (include shipping). more discounts if buy minc than 2
Atlantic Ambergris - $38.00
Flux de Fleur -$43.00
Inverno Russo -$38.00
Oud Picante -$33.00

 

[Diamondflame]

​inverno russo

it's taken me a while longer than usual to write about inverno russo. While it shares the same dna as the amazing siberian musk, to pigeonhole it simply as a quieter, more floral rendition would be missing the mark.


The siberian deer musk element has been toned down in here yet sports the same unmistakable velveteen signature albeit a touch more animalic, augmented as it were by the inclusion of synthetic civet. Someone thought it smells like 'butt', but i wouldn't go that far. It's definitely not skanky; to my nose it smells more like dried saliva on self-groomed felines and the few times i've worn it this animalic aspect harmonizes well with the white florals and the creamy-ambery base.


Sillage is adequate though i feel it doesn't project and envelope the wearer nearly as well as siberian musk.


The thing is it seems to wear a little differently every time i spritz some on my skin. On cool dry evenings my favourite aspect -the musky rose- hangs around longer, while on warmer humid days the florals are subdued and short-lived, the scent skipping right to the oriental base in as short a time as 2 hours.This is not a knock on the fragrance but a reality challenge especially if you happen to live in warmer climates and not in the frigid cold of a russian winter.

 

[exoticscents]

​inverno russo

Brilliant Observations. That opening resembles the animalic opening of Parfum Dusita s Oudh Infini which utilises fermented Laotian Oud also Castoreum like note of salty butter and musk. It is because of the Oud used here. The chinese one. It has the same opening. Almost going indole heavy. Its really challenging. However, its taken care of here. The Deer Musk does a great job of taming it. Thats why people got the "butt" , But I didnt really thought it was too challenging. It was rather soft. Cos the Oil in its pure form ihas a nasty opening ahahaha. cheers

 

[Mudweasel]

Ok, so upon further wearing, I’ve done a complete about turn on Inverno Russo - finally got my head around it and love it. I think I was simply expecting something different and was initially surprised/shocked.

Anyway, have now ordered three of the four (AA, FdF and IR). Decided that FdF wasn’t too femme after all ;-)

 

[thebeck]

Ok, so upon further wearing, I’ve done a complete about turn on Inverno Russo - finally got my head around it and love it. I think I was simply expecting something different and was initially surprised/shocked.

Anyway, have now ordered three of the four (AA, FdF and IR). Decided that FdF wasn’t too femme after all ;-)

Glad you decided FdF wasn't too femme for you. My wife considers me to be a macho type man, and says FdF is not too femme on me either.

My take, it's genderless.

 

[Starblind]

Brilliant Observations. That opening resembles the animalic opening of Parfum Dusita s Oudh Infini which utilises fermented Laotian Oud also Castoreum like note of salty butter and musk. It is because of the Oud used here. The chinese one. It has the same opening. Almost going indole heavy. Its really challenging. However, its taken care of here. The Deer Musk does a great job of taming it. Thats why people got the "butt" , But I didnt really thought it was too challenging. It was rather soft. Cos the Oil in its pure form ihas a nasty opening ahahaha. cheers

I do think that your appreciation for this scent will depend quite a bit on your own personal tolerance for, familiarity with, and enjoyment of this type of Chinese oud PLUS the Laotian oud. If you are an animalic oud lover, I think you'll find Inverno Russo deeply intriguing; if however, you're new to ouds (and Chinese oud, in particular), you may find this scent more difficult to appreciate. I am, unfortunately, one of the latter, and I find IR (like Oudh Infini) somewhat challenging to wear.

 

[exoticscents]

Absolutely. We all have different tastes. And Oud is definitely one of the most challenging notes. Sometimes too out of taste I did not find it too harsh in the opening. I was actually trying to point out that the Oil which is used here has an animalic overdose. However it is much better in this scent. But for those who are not used to it will find it quite challenging. You are very right . Oils from Laos and this specific oil from China tend to suffer from overfermented top notes. Because traditional Indian distillers are distilling most oils in Laos and their technique makes these oils funky. Otherwise some aged wild Laos oils totally smell clean and beautiful. Many might feel the top a bit challenging with Russo. Have a good day friend.

 

[Starblind]

Absolutely. We all have different tastes. And Oud is definitely one of the most challenging notes. Sometimes too out of taste I did not find it too harsh in the opening. I was actually trying to point out that the Oil which is used here has an animalic overdose. However it is much better in this scent. But for those who are not used to it will find it quite challenging. You are very right . Oils from Laos and this specific oil from China tend to suffer from overfermented top notes. Because traditional Indian distillers are distilling most oils in Laos and their technique makes these oils funky. Otherwise some aged wild Laos oils totally smell clean and beautiful. Many might feel the top a bit challenging with Russo. Have a good day friend.

I very much appreciate your explanations about these various ouds! This is highly informative and interesting. Thank you!

 

[Diamondflame]

Glad to have you joined us on this thread, Nikhil @exoticscents. Your experience with different oud variety is most certainly welcomed. :smiley: Oud is indeed one of those ‘acquired taste’... though I find many more agreeable than heavy indoles.

 

[thebeck]

Kafkaesque has posted review of Inverno Russo

http://www.kafkaesqueblog.com/2017/10/21/areej-le-dore-inverno-russo/

 

[yellowtone]

Thanks for posting the link. Interesting, this seems to be the first time I hear Inverno Russo described as sugary sweet. Has anyone else had that experience?

 

[Diamondflame]

Thanks for posting the link. Interesting, this seems to be the first time I hear Inverno Russo described as sugary sweet. Has anyone else had that experience?

I have a low tolerance for sweet scents but I don’t find Inverno Russo all that sweet or sugary, nor ‘gourmand’ for that matter. But a few others have mentioned ‘cocoa’ or ‘chocolate’ so clearly, YMMV. It’s possible the no. of worn sprays affect the way it is received.

 

[strifeknot]

I'm not getting sweetness from Inverno Russo. It presents to me as rose and white florals, followed by mild musk and opulent woods.

thebeck above mentions getting a very different effect from Flux de Fleur after shaking the bottle. Perhaps something similar is happening for some with Inverno Russo, with people perceiving it quite differently depending on how it's been applied. Separation can occur with extraits full of natural ingredients, so agitating the bottle before spraying will make sure everything is blended properly and give the full, intended experience.

 

[yellowtone]

It seems like these fragrances perform very differently on different people, or at least are interpreted differently. I guess I'll have to wait for my splits to see what they behave like on my skin (let's hope I don't get sugary gourmand, because that's not my wheelhouse at all).

I do find Siberian Musk to behave differently when I spray it versus when I use my sample to dab, so I guess application method, as well as the amount applied, has a significant impact on how these scents develop.

 

[Starblind]

Thanks for posting the link. Interesting, this seems to be the first time I hear Inverno Russo described as sugary sweet. Has anyone else had that experience?

I, too, find it incredibly sweet. Not sugary, but deeply, darkly sweet, in the way that bitter chocolate is sweet. I wonder if perhaps we are not actually smelling things differently, but merely describing them differently.

Just a thought!

 

[thebeck]

I'm not getting sweetness from Inverno Russo. It presents to me as rose and white florals, followed by mild musk and opulent woods.

thebeck above mentions getting a very different effect from Flux de Fleur after shaking the bottle. Perhaps something similar is happening for some with Inverno Russo, with people perceiving it quite differently depending on how it's been applied. Separation can occur with extraits full of natural ingredients, so agitating the bottle before spraying will make sure everything is blended properly and give the full, intended experience.

Yes, very important to shake thoroughly. Also when these tiny samples were made I suspect the samples themselves are going to vary from being heavier or lighter on certain ingredients. With these types ingredients a very tiny variation in the blend will change the scent. It will be interesting to see if things become more consistent when sampling is done directly from a well shaken bottle. I'll be looking forward to hearing some posts from people who are receiving full bottles, and maybe report back here if their bottle experience was the same or different than the sample experience.

 

[yellowtone]

I, too, find it incredibly sweet. Not sugary, but deeply, darkly sweet, in the way that bitter chocolate is sweet. I wonder if perhaps we are not actually smelling things differently, but merely describing them differently.

Just a thought!

I've often wondered about this, especially regarding sweetness in fragrances: Do I actually smell something different or do I just use a different yardstick or different words to measure or describe sweetness by, compared to others? I often describe things as sweet that really do not register as such for others, which makes me doubt myself.

What is your experience with sweetness in Siberian Musk? I find that quite sweet as well, but so perfectly balanced that it doesn't cause any problems.

 

[StellaDiverFlynn]

Thanks for posting the link. Interesting, this seems to be the first time I hear Inverno Russo described as sugary sweet. Has anyone else had that experience?

I didn't find Inverno Russo sweet, nor do I find Siberian Musk sweet. At least not the kind of syrupy sweet like Flux de Fleur's opening to me. I also get a chocolate note in Inverno Russo especially during the first hour, but not in the candy sweet way, rather a buttery, unctuous texture with a deep bittersweet that reminds me of dark chcoclate.

 

[Valier]

I'm having difficulty describing the AA but the clove note isn't domineering. It does set this composition in a new england perspective, I'm thinking Maine or Connecticut; it combines well with the ambergris and produces the smell of cake that I didn't expect from the reviews here. If one could switch the clove with either juniper or allspice and jack up the orris root this would be very exceptional. I do like it though. The cake is similar to a brittany-style sweet n salty.

 

[Diamondflame]

‘Sweet’ is such a tentative description, isn’t it? Not only are there varying levels of intensity in sweetness, the picture gets even more complicated when you consider the density/weight, texture and other modifiers related to the sweetness. For example, I do get a veneer of sweetness in Inverno Russo but it presents itself like a dusting (not ‘coating’/‘layer’) of icing sugar. Nothing overwhelming. exoticscents seemed to have detected something similar but chose to describe it as ‘powdery sweetness’. Starblind is indeed correct to highlight the difference lies more in the choice of descriptors we use to describe what is essentially the same scent accord.

Siberian Musk has a similar warmth IMO but it is perfectly counterbalanced by the citrusy/piney elements.

 

[Diamondflame]

@Valier, thanks for sharing that interesting perspective. Would you happen to know the name of this particular spiced ‘cake’? Is it a local favorite as I have not tried any cake as fragrantly spiced.

I wore Atlantic Ambergris the other day and the clove note was tenacious as it was a little overbearing. I have not made up my mind about it yet but am hoping someone more familiar with white ambergris can chime in with the role it plays in scents in general and in Atlantic Ambergris in particular. (Yes, I’ve read Kafkaesque’s take).

 

[Diamondflame]

From Russian Adam:-

...wanted to shed some light on the shaking bottle issue.
the oils I used are all dissolved in perfumers alcohol.
they can not form layers and separate over the time.
however I also used harder materials like for instance deer musk and castoreum grains. those can never be disolved completely. despite the careful, gentle filtering (on purpose) after aging my perfumes tiny particles/ dust of deer musk, castoreum, ambergris still made it to the bottles. that is the reason why if one would let a bottle rest for a few days standing straight the tiny layer at the bottom may be formed. once you shake the bottle it appears clearly in a beautiful dusty strains spreading trough the bottle. this is actual raw materials, harder musk grains or ambergris dust. they may add to the scent but not significantly if bottle is shaken before aplication. However they add significantly to the aging process of the composition. with the time they continue to macerate or to be tinctured bringing layers of depth and strength to the composition.

That is one of the benefits of mostly natural perfumes composed using natural musk and ambergris. Fully synthetic perfumes may go off after few years but these extracts will age and only gain power and richness, just like good quality vintage perfumes from the time when companies were still using natural musks...

 

[Valier]

@Valier, thanks for sharing that interesting perspective. Would you happen to know the name of this particular spiced ‘cake’? Is it a local favorite as I have not tried any cake as fragrantly spiced.

I wore Atlantic Ambergris the other day and the clove note was tenacious as it was a little overbearing. I have not made up my mind about it yet but am hoping someone more familiar with white ambergris can chime in with the role it plays in scents in general and in Atlantic Ambergris in particular. (Yes, I’ve read Kafkaesque’s take).

I think the Tonka and the ambergris are creating the cake smell. Gateau Breton is not normally a spiced affair as the accompaniments provide the flavoring. The clove was probably used as a wood facet but on my skin the ambergris and Tonka became a close second and made cake instead.

 

[JBS1]

For those wanting samples STC has them all now, and so does strifeknot.

It's going to be a tuff decision for me.

Prices for 5ml decants:

STC – Plus slow shipping - ----- STRIFEKNOT – includes fast shipping
Atlantic Ambergris - $130.71 - or - $40.00
Flux de Fleur - $130.71 -------- or - $45.50
Inverno Russo - $130.71 ------ or - $40.00
Oud Picante - $121.36 -------- -or - $35.00

Also notice Flux de Fleur costs $50.00 more per bottle than AA and IV but your paying the higher price of Flux de Fleur for those two.
Excuse me, I think I'm in need of counseling after being raped by those STC prices. You'll notice at least strifeknot's pricing is based on the bottle cost.

Thank you so much Beck for pointing the price differences.
Stife is also a fast shipper .
You get your choices of colors in regards to the caps.
He has awesome labels too for his glass splits.
Myself I just ordered a 5ml of Oud Zen and a 5ml of Oud Picante.
I have a 10ml of Oud Zen from strifeknot already from a previous bottle,
and my bottle of Oud Picante from Russian Adam should be here today.

Thank you to all the good and honest members here on Basenotes.:thumbsup:

 

[thebeck]

In reference to what Russian Adam says on post #665.

I think if you don't shake first it's more significant than RA suggests. Also the cumulative effect of constantly spraying without shaking will change the scent profile quite a bit. Of course this is just my opinion, but it's something I learned over time, and stand by it.

With the end of the sprayer resting on the bottom, you're constantly just spraying more of those dusty strains. Keep doing that next thing you know the perfumes has changed because all of the heavier materials have previously been sprayed.

I just have one question. Do you shake your vinegar and oil salad dressing first? Of course you do. Then why not your perfume?

 

[Diamondflame]

I agree with thebeck. If you want the aging/maceration process to continue in your bottle, it’s probably best not to spray them out ‘prematurely’. I do not know if shaking the bottle helps but if it keeps these heavier particles in the bottle for a while longer I guess it’s worth a shot. Isn’t it just great your favorite fragrance gets stronger with age? :smiley:

 

[thebeck]

I agree with thebeck. If you want the aging/maceration process to continue in your bottle, it’s probably best not to spray them out ‘prematurely’. I do not know if shaking the bottle helps but if it keeps these heavier particles in the bottle for a while longer I guess it’s worth a shot. Isn’t it just great your favorite fragrance gets stronger with age? :smiley:

Or maybe less strong if you don't shake. You start asking yourself, where' the deer musk, castoreum, and ambergris. Suddenly after half the bottle is gone you begin to notice this perfume doesn't smell like it use to.You go to pour that salad dressing, and you realize only oil is left. Just the opposite of perfumes because you don't have a sprayer and pouring from the top.

Even if this were to be my imagination. Shaking first is a cheap insurance policy for protecting the integrity of the scent until the last spray.

Thanks for joining in Diamondflame.

 

[JBS1]

Got my bottle of Oud Picante in the mail today
Number 33
Very happy.:dankk2:

 

[Diamondflame]

Got my bottle of Oud Picante in the mail today
Number 33
Very happy.:dankk2:

Congrats on your bottle! Let us know if it smells a little different from the sample.

 

[JBS1]

Congrats on your bottle! Let us know if it smells a little different from the sample.

Will do and thank you.

 

[exoticscents]

I finally tested the Atlantic Ambergris and its a confused scent. Whatever Adam was trying to achieve is not in harmony with my expectations. Art is so subjective. What are spices doing with Ambergris. I think clove no matter how unique it is can totally eat up other subtler nuances and this is what I experienced yesterday. The opening is undeniably sweet zesty mandarin/sweet bergamot.. whats it doing in a classic. It fades away in minutes and the Ambergris takes over a soft moist cloud of musky powderiness with only hints of wet coral reef. Then suddenly the cloves and mutmeg begin the dance of chaos. No matter how much the dusty oakmoss tries to make peace with them they wont settle down so Orris joins the powder party too and the chaos becomes a pandemic killing all the delicate florals in the way. However this intense spiciness calms down with time to leave on skin a powdery floral bouquet with hints of smoke from a beautiful myrrh and labdanum. The power of naturals is undeniable. They are so soothing to the nose. The perfume is definitely a floriental-fougere. Highly contrasting notes working out a compromise. On skin it is troublesome but in the air the wafts are far more pleasing and actually nice but nowhere close to the brilliance of Siberian Musk and Ottoman Empire. White Ambergris could have been handled better. All hope is lost ? No. I had a similar opinion about the chaos going on inside my Oud Zen bottle. Being the patient Oud lover I am, I waited for it to age. And after a gap of 6 months or so. It has become a rave inducing scent. A scent worthy of keeping in the perfume museums. Lol. So I have ordered my bottle anyway. Thats the tricky part with Naturals. You never know what the ultimate result is going to be. In my humble experience I can really say the dynamics of such thick concotions really cannot be gauged so easily. Ambergris is a champion of agi g. I will put this bottle aside for a few months or so and wait for the notes to settle down. Thank you and have a good day folks.

 

[Mudweasel]

Ok, so upon further wearing, I’ve done a complete about turn on Inverno Russo - finally got my head around it and love it. I think I was simply expecting something different and was initially surprised/shocked.

Anyway, have now ordered three of the four (AA, FdF and IR). Decided that FdF wasn’t too femme after all ;-)

Well, this is now getting silly... having already done one u-turn and decided that I like IR, I’ve now had more opportunity to test out Oud Picante and have added it to my order. On my first wearing, all I got was cumin overload (a note I can be overly sensitive to), but on subsequent wearings, I’ve barely noticed it, as it’s simply blended perfectly with the rest of the spices - go figure!

So, my initial concerns that I’d end up with all four have proven right...!!!

 

[Scent Detective]

I have a sample of Siberian Musk ordered, and based on what I've read about it, I am very excited to try it out. Unfortunately, finding a full bottle also sounds next to impossible. Ah well...I hope to enjoy my sample!

 

[Diamondflame]

@Scent Detective. Enjoy (sample) and weep (no longer in production). Life’s like that sometimes.

Thank you, Nikhil for the review on Atlantic Ambergris . It seems this particular fragrance had many of us confounded. Expectations went quickly out of the window and the landing was hard. I had half-expected a far subtler scent, perhaps something reminiscent of a piece of driftwood washed ashore after weeks afloat in the sea. The clovey fougere-ish facet took me by surprise.

The other day I wore 2 sprays of Flux de Fleur and went to work. Strangely the florals were muted this time, hardly made an appearance in the opening minutes. All I got was the floral incense notes of agarbatti as though I’d spent the day in a Hindu temple. While the woody-smoky-ambery body was nice enough, I missed the jamine and white floral brighter notes.

Still have Oud Picante left to smell. I don’t know if I should feel disappointed or relieved over the fact that ‘love at first/second sniff’ didn’t happen this time around. Just as well I went with 10 ml decants. Let’s see if I feel differently once these fragrances have matured with age. But these are quality constructs so I’m happy they still found some fans like Mudweasel.

 

[exoticscents]

@Scent Detective. Enjoy (sample) and weep (no longer in production). Life’s like that sometimes.

Thank you, Nikhil for the review on Atlantic Ambergris . It seems this particular fragrance had many of us confounded. Expectations went quickly out of the window and the landing was hard. I had half-expected a far subtler scent, perhaps something reminiscent of a piece of driftwood washed ashore after weeks afloat in the sea. The clovey fougere-ish facet took me by surprise.

The other day I wore 2 sprays of Flux de Fleur and went to work. Strangely the florals were muted this time, hardly made an appearance in the opening minutes. All I got was the floral incense notes of agarbatti as though I’d spent the day in a Hindu temple. While the woody-smoky-ambery body was nice enough, I missed the jamine and white floral brighter notes.

Still have Oud Picante left to smell. I don’t know if I should feel disappointed or relieved over the fact that ‘love at first/second sniff’ didn’t happen this time around. Just as well I went with 10 ml decants. Let’s see if I feel differently once these fragrances have matured with age. But these are quality constructs so I’m happy they still found some fans like Mudweasel.

Ah. Dont worry my dear friend. Naturals change a lot. Just let em age. With artificial molecules the composition is easy to control. I have bought all 4 bottles too just becuase he has used some really precious materials. Green Hojari/Loban/Olibanum is so so special. Fossilised amber dry distillate. Lets wait for some magic to happen to my bottles. Oud Zen really changed its character. Btw my bottle is no.1 and Siberian Musk no.4. Purely based on first hand personal experience I feel these scents will benefit from aging for sure. Our impressions with Ambergris based perfumes widely comes from use of mid grade or low grade material. White Ambergris hasnt woven its magic as yet. It eventually will.

 

[Valier]

I've retried the AA (house is frigid today), the cake accord has ended; its the tonka after all, now what I'm getting is the pine I didn't smell last time warmed with a little clove followed by driftwood in the background. Some floral-ness from the champaca as well, loads better than last time.

 

[JBS1]

I've retried the AA (house is frigid today), the cake accord has ended; its the tonka after all, now what I'm getting is the pine I didn't smell last time warmed with a little clove followed by driftwood in the background. Some floral-ness from the champaca as well, loads better than last time.

That's really good to hear.
Thank you.