Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

epapsiou

Always be smelling
Basenotes Plus
Sep 28, 2015
Looking at the pictures, I’d have flipped myself. How can one make a reasonable purchasing decision with such remnants? And the sample sets are all sold out. Mine was shipped from Thailand via EMS and everything looks perfect so perhaps USPS flew them in depressurised cargo holds, I don’t know.

Back to the scents. Noted stelladiverflynn’s experience with interest as it seems to echo [ ] Starblind[/b]’s. I probably have one last spray of Inverno Russo. Will sample one final time on fabric and track its development a little closer to see what I could make of the oud element.
Russian Adam got back to me. He was very nice and apologetic about it and resolved the issue.
This is one of the fastest customer issue resolution I have experienced :)
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
Russian Adam got back to me. He was very nice and apologetic about it and resolved the issue.
This is one of the fastest customer issue resolution I have experienced :)

That’s awesome. Kudos to Adam. Exactly how customer service should be handled, eh?I have a feeling he probably has a few backup samples for contingencies.

On a side note, I saw TPC still has samples of Siberian Musk but at eye-watering prices.
 

Starblind

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 2, 2013
@Folks - Those of you who have tried any of the new ones, how does sillage, projection and duration compare with Siberian Musk?

Many thanks.

Actually, I'd say that Inverno Russo is on the same level of potency as SM, but I haven't worn the others often enough to speak about their strength and longevity.

Maybe others will chime in on this.
 
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StellaDiverFlynn

Super Member
Oct 5, 2016
I'm testing Oud Picante today.

The name and the notes made me think that it would be something very rough and aggressively spicy, but what I got on my skin is primarily a smooth tobacco fragrance. I actually don't smell much spices in any distinctive way, they're more like a fuzzy warmth along with the deep, chewy amber tobacco and bitter cacao powder. The amber-tobacco part reminds me of a few cacao-patchouli-tobacco fragrances, such as Sammarco Bond-T, Oriza Horizon, etc. but minus the patchouli. As for the oud, I don't get the barnyard, animalic type like in Oud Zen, but occasional whiffs of ink and medicinal notes among the smooth amber-sandalwood base.

Between Oud Zen and Oud Picante, I enjoy Picante more, but it's mainly because of my perception and expectation. Zen is lovely, but it's so focused on aspects of oud that I ultimately find it a bit simplistic, while Picante, being a lovely tobacco fragrance with inky medicinal oud and spices popping up as different facets, totally surprised me.
 
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Starblind

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 2, 2013
I'm testing Oud Picante today.

The name and the notes made me think that it would be something very rough and aggressively spicy, but what I got on my skin is primarily a smooth tobacco fragrance. I actually don't smell much spices in any distinctive way, they're more like a fuzzy warmth along with the deep, chewy amber tobacco and bitter cacao powder. The amber-tobacco part reminds me of a few cacao-patchouli-tobacco fragrances, such as Sammarco Bond-T, Oriza Horizon, etc. but minus the patchouli. As for the oud, I don't get the barnyard, animalic type like in Oud Zen, but occasional whiffs of ink and medicinal notes among the smooth amber-sandalwood base.

Between Oud Zen and Oud Picante, I enjoy Picante more, but it's mainly because of my perception and expectation. Zen is lovely, but it's so focused on aspects of oud that I ultimately find it a bit simplistic, while Picante, being a lovely tobacco fragrance with inky medicinal oud and spices popping up as different facets, totally surprised me.

I'm testing this one again today, so thank you for your very astute assessment! I love tobacco scents.
 

JBS1

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2016
I'm testing Oud Picante today.

The name and the notes made me think that it would be something very rough and aggressively spicy, but what I got on my skin is primarily a smooth tobacco fragrance. I actually don't smell much spices in any distinctive way, they're more like a fuzzy warmth along with the deep, chewy amber tobacco and bitter cacao powder. The amber-tobacco part reminds me of a few cacao-patchouli-tobacco fragrances, such as Sammarco Bond-T, Oriza Horizon, etc. but minus the patchouli. As for the oud, I don't get the barnyard, animalic type like in Oud Zen, but occasional whiffs of ink and medicinal notes among the smooth amber-sandalwood base.

Between Oud Zen and Oud Picante, I enjoy Picante more, but it's mainly because of my perception and expectation. Zen is lovely, but it's so focused on aspects of oud that I ultimately find it a bit simplistic, while Picante, being a lovely tobacco fragrance with inky medicinal oud and spices popping up as different facets, totally surprised me.

I was worried about the clove going medicinal on me ,but luckily it didn't .
I was worried about the cumin too,but it's just fine here.
Yes to the tobacco ,but it wasn't a dense wet tobacco . Pleasant , aromatic .
With Zen and Picante ,there's a spot , like you said ,well at least Picante for you, that pops up .
It's right their in the middle , almost 3D in presence .
I don't know what it is,meaning the notes or anything .
I'm really not gifted at picking those out, but when it happens , I love it.
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
Actually, I'd say that Inverno Russo is on the same level of potency as SM, but I haven't worn the others often enough to speak about their strength and longevity.

Maybe others will chime in on this.

Wearing an equivalent volume in spray form, I feel Siberian Musk envelopes me in a bigger scent cloud than Inverno Russo does and lasts much longer on skin, and I attribute this to its larger musk dosage. The musk component is not as fluffy but a touch raunchier in the latter so I think Starblind’s husband was pretty spot on with his ‘butt’ reference. :lolk:

Longevity is influenced by a lot of external factors including humidity but an average of 10-12 hours on skin is more than enough for me to give a thumbs up. I certainly don’t get (nor do I want) a 24-36 hour-tango with Ottoman Empire as mentioned in Kafkaesqueblog. I do shower twice a day but I can understand why others don’t need to. :wink:

Btw Russian Adam confirmed (via a recent PM) the potency of his latest creations is equivalent to that of his earlier trio. He seems a little perplexed by claims on the contrary.

By ‘potency’ I assume he meant ‘concentration of aromatic compounds’ as a percentage of total fragrance volume. IMO any perceived reduction in potency could be attributed to 2 factors:

i) greater use of less diffusive ingredients thereby resulting in a less expansive sillage, or

ii) scent habituation or desensitization. There might be a grain of truth in this as a few of us had just got off from a round of sampling of oud/sandalwood blends from Rising Phoenix and Feel Oud.

What do you think?

P/S: I’ll be concluding my take on Inverno Russo shortly but will take more time with the other 3. Have not even sniffed Oud Picante!
 
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thebeck

Basenotes Dependent
Mar 25, 2007
Flux de Fleur
I want to review this from a comparison of Kafkaesque’s review. Kafkaesque is one of best and most knowledgeable perfume reviewers blogging today. I have the upmost respect for him/her(don't know). So these comparisons are not about him/her or I, they’re about a difference of experience relating to Flux de Fleur.

Kafkaesque says, “Flux de Fleur opens on my skin with a complex, spicy, sticky, sweet, dark, and heavily ambered bouquet that is initially led by frankincense. It is a beautiful, aromatic, fragrant note that is piney, coniferous, foresty, resinous, and lightly sweetened with honeyed sap. A slew of other notes follow immediately on its heels, several of which add to the sweetness. There is: juicy, candied pink grapefruit; fruity, honeyed jasmine sambac; heady but delicate and also honeyed honeysuckle; fruity frangipani that skews towards the orange blossom side in aroma, just as it did in Ottoman Empire; Tolu balsam that briefly wafts a licorice aroma; labdanum that briefly wafts a root-beer tonality; and caramel-scented benzoin amber.

There is more. While the amber accord oozes its sticky sweetness onto the fruity floral bouquet, red-brown spices swirl all around like dervishes. They smell primarily of dusty, earthy henna and equally dusty saffron, the latter undoubtedly stemming from the Indian shamama attar. In the base, the oud ripples, smelling of milky sweet coconut water, muskiness, and, once in a blue moon, tobacco. A tiny pinch of earthy, dusky deer musk grains lurks in the base as well, although it doesn’t last for long in any distinct, visible form.

There are so many notes, broad accords, and layers happening all at once, but some things dominate more than others. In the first two minutes, Flux de Fleur’s main thrust is the fruitiness, both from the pink grapefruit and the florals, but it is rapidly swallowed up and engulfed by a sticky ambered sweetness that is generated by a combination of the shamama amber attar and the sticky caramel-scented benzoin.

However, after 10 minutes, Flux de Fleur changes focus. The grapefruit and the fruity, honeyed florals (which are quickly turning indolic) fall to third place in this horse race, while the amber and spice accords fuse together and take the lead. The shamama’s saffron and the henna are conjoined, adding a powerful dusty, dusky, powdery, and earthy quality to the scent, while the various types of amber resin — labdanum, Tolu balsam, and benzoin — coat everything with an immensely sticky golden sweetness”.


I say – seems like my experience so far, and close enough not to quibble.


Now Kafkaesque continues with, “I have to be honest, I personally find that both main accords are a little heavy-handed and overwhelming in their intensity on my skin. The amber was seriously hardcore for the first 50 minutes, even for an amber junkie like myself, but my greatest struggle was with the saffron-henna-spice mix because its earthen powderiness and dustiness were domineering elements on my skin for Flux de Fleur’s first six hours. I’ll talk about that much more when I get to the later stages of the scent but, even at the 15-minute mark, the effect of the spices felt like a bulldozer on my skin”.


I say - my experience is a little different. I didn’t get any heavy- handedness with the main accords. I never got anything that was overwhelmingly intense or out of balance at any time during my day with Flux de Fleur. I never felt the amber was hardcore, and I’m not very fond of amber in general. The spices never seemed overt. I surely missed the bulldozer effect entirely.


Kafkaesque says“That magic is particularly evident as the first hour draws to a close when Flux de Fleur briefly shifts direction. Roughly 55 minutes in, the flower bloom, coated in coconut cream, giving Flux de Fleur a strong beachy, tropical vibe. The amber hangs like a golden haze at sunset, sometimes smelling of caramel, occasionally taking on almost a rum-like booziness. The spices are fully layered within. For my tastes, they are still too strong, powdery, and intensive. But, if I put them aside, everything else is gorgeous. I feel as though I’m back on a beach in Maui, Turquoise, or the Maldives at sunset: the air is thick, musky, golden, and sweet; the last vestiges of coconut suntan oil cling to my skin; I’m sipping a fruity rum cocktail; there is a lei of island flowers around my neck wafting a heady floralcy; but, this time, the towel around my body is made of interwoven saffron and henna.
It would be perfect if the spices and their powdery dustiness were merely a drop in the ocean but, on my skin and to my nose, they feel as rampant as all the grains of sand on that beach. As the 1st hour gives way to the 2nd, their earthy, dusky powderiness not only remains forceful but actually starts to muffle the beachy, fruity, coconut-y florals, even when I smell the scent up close. By the end of the 2nd hour and the start of the 3rd, the powdered spices run completely roughshod over the creamy, coconut-y, fruity florals, wiping them out — and the beach scene along with it”.


I say-those two paragraphs are right on the money describing the way Flux de Fleur smells 55 minutes in, except lucky for me, the magic continued to the end of the 3rd hour with no forceful dusky powderiness, and the beach scene remaining intact, and growing sweeter without any distraction from those pesky notes getting in the way of my day on a beach in Maui.

The real magic to Flux de Fleur is how well it performs on my skin. From the first spray until the last whiff is pure pleasure. Earlier in the day while surfing the net I kept getting whiffs of myself. I only used two sprays from the Areej le Dore sample sprayer. You won’t get any olfactory fatigue from this one. You’ll get some nice whiffs of yourself without knocking anyone else down on the process.

In conclusion I feel so bad that Kafkaesque’s skin didn’t agree with Flux de Fleur. Overall, if you take all the good things he said, and take out all the bad things – THAT’S MY REVIEW. The only thing negative for some might be is it gets quite sweet, and if you don’t like tropical floral, Flux de Fleur may not be your thing. Given that this one may be super skin sensitive, I suggest getting hold of sample to see if your skin is a match. I was surprised mine was a match made in heaven.

We all know how thebeck cries about longevity, and sillage. Nothing to cry about here. See, no tears on the page. Maybe a couple, the happy ones don't leave stains.


SIDEBAR: I don't what peoples habits are regarding spraying. Mine is to always shake well before spraying. Especially when the perfume has many natural ingredients. The heavy molecules sink to the bottom and you don't what that sprayer just picking up all those heavy ones.
I'm guessing everyone here already does that, but who am I to assume.

WARNING: If you don't shake Flux de Fleur, before you spray, it will most likely smell like Kafkaesque's review. If you do shake it first and your skin is like mine, it will smell a lot more like what happened with my experience. When there's not much in sample there's not much too shake That's why I think decanted samples can vary from one sample to another. When you do business with a trusted decanter like strifeknot you get one from a bottle well shaken before decanting.

I will say if you happen to get a spray with a wee bit too much green frankincense and heena you will have the same experience as Kafkaesque. I'm not sure why this is such a chameleon. I have more Flux de Fleur ordered, and I plan on spending a full week with it trying to get to the bottom of these inconsistencies. It makes it impossible to give an accurate experience when things change so radically.
 
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kswer

Basenotes Dependent
May 13, 2013
In regards to Flux de Fleur the "immensely sticky golden sweetness" was a bit too much for me. The combination of jasmine, tuberose, and ambers made it feel "syrupy" to me. Leaning feminine.
BTW, I feel that Kafkaesque is female. Not that it matters.
 

thebeck

Basenotes Dependent
Mar 25, 2007
@ Starblind, Diamondflame - many thanks, much appreciated.

@thebeck - A couple of questions regarding Flux de Fleur: does it have stronger or weaker projection compared to Siberian Musk, and is it too femme? Thank you.

Weaker projection than Siberian Musk but still a nice projection.

I asked my wife yesterday if she thought it smelled too femme on me, and her answer was no.
 

epapsiou

Always be smelling
Basenotes Plus
Sep 28, 2015
@ Starblind, Diamondflame - many thanks, much appreciated.

@thebeck - A couple of questions regarding Flux de Fleur: does it have stronger or weaker projection compared to Siberian Musk, and is it too femme? Thank you.
Flux de Fleur is feminine leaning. Very similar to good quality nagchampa/ indian incense for a first few hours. Something to keep in mind if you are not a fan of agarbattis.
Too much going on for me to love this one. I like it better in drydown when the floral pungency has been dialed down.
 
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StellaDiverFlynn

Super Member
Oct 5, 2016
I was worried about the clove going medicinal on me ,but luckily it didn't .
I was worried about the cumin too,but it's just fine here.
Yes to the tobacco ,but it wasn't a dense wet tobacco . Pleasant , aromatic .
With Zen and Picante ,there's a spot , like you said ,well at least Picante for you, that pops up .
It's right their in the middle , almost 3D in presence .
I don't know what it is,meaning the notes or anything .
I'm really not gifted at picking those out, but when it happens , I love it.

I had the exact concern about clove and cumin, and I'm not fan of dense tobacco, either. But Oud Picante avoided all these aspects that don't work for me and pushed all the right buttons. :D
 

StellaDiverFlynn

Super Member
Oct 5, 2016
Today, it's Flux de Fleur's turn.

The opening is tough for me. The combined effect of the candied yet slightly bitter grapefruit and headily sweet white floral, is reminiscent of bubblegum and smells kind of plastic to me. I also get a similar opening accord in Aftelier Candide and The Rising Phoenix Perfumery More Beauty Than Beast EDP, both are all-natural and feature grapefruit and white floral.

So there seems to be a pattern, and these "plastic bubblegum" accords usually disappear once entering the middle phase. As I patiently waited about 30 min, I was rewarded later
on: the intense fruity sweetness fades, the musk emerges to smoothen the edge of white floral bouquet, while the amber resins brings out a golden depth. Flux de Fleur remains this luxurious tropical floriental from then on. The white floral smells like oily tuberose at first, then gradually shifts to a buttery ylang, then further to a slightly animalic jasmine. I do get the reference to Le Maroc Pour Elle mentioned by @Starblind. Both share this resinous, opulent jasmine floriental identity, while Tauer's is darker and more animalic, Areej's is fruitier, more tropical and bright.

What I find interesting, is that there's occasionally some inky animalic oud popping up here and there when I sniff closely to skin, like flying fish jumping out of this white floriental sea and then disappear again, which adds a pleasant dynamic to the mix. However, I didn't detect any spices' dustiness mentioned in Kafkaesque's review.
 

Bangkok Hound

User of Toilet Water
Basenotes Plus
Nov 4, 2015
Flux de Fleur is feminine leaning. Very similar to good quality nagchampa/ indian incense for a first few hours. Something to keep in mind if you are not a fan of agarbattis.
Too much going on for me to love this one. I like it better in drydown when the floral pungency has been dialed down.

I'm glad to see another mention of incense. Floral incense is exactly what Flux de Fleur is to me from beginning to end. No Oud and certainly no spices. While I love it this way, I would actually appreciate some spiciness. Maybe I'll pick up on other notes later with more wears.
 

freewheelingvagabond

Basenotes Institution
Jun 10, 2012
Weaker projection than Siberian Musk but still a nice projection.

I asked my wife yesterday if she thought it smelled too femme on me, and her answer was no.

Flux de Fleur is feminine leaning. Very similar to good quality nagchampa/ indian incense for a first few hours. Something to keep in mind if you are not a fan of agarbattis.
Too much going on for me to love this one. I like it better in drydown when the floral pungency has been dialed down.

Thanks for your responses, much appreciated.

Comes with fake vagina, just in case,

Hahahaha, you (and a few others) need to post more often!
 

bewithme

Basenotes Member
Sep 4, 2015
Received all 4 bottle today. Gorgeous presentation. Looks expensive and classic. Tried all 4. I love Flux-de-fleur the most, then Atlantic Ambergris, Inverno, finally Oud picate. But all are masterpieces. Haven't smelled anything this amazing for a very long time. Worth every penny.
 
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cazaubon

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2005
I received my bottle of Atlantic Ambergris and gingerly put on one small spritz, having read Kafkaesque's review which was less than favourable. I have to say it is absolutely lovely and I am thrilled with my purchase. Will give it a full wearing as soon as I get rid of the remnants of my cold. A sample of Oud Picante was included (the one I was least interested in - had I known there would be a free sample included I would have requested Invierno or Flux). It arrived perfectly intact, no leakage. I don't care for it as oud/cumin is not to my taste unfortunately.

Unlike Bangkok Hound, I did not find it barbershoppy, thankfully. Wish I could smell Invierno and Flux but given all the sample leakage, I guess I'm not sorry I just ordered blind.
 

exoticscents

Super Member
Sep 10, 2016
Hi everyone. I gave Oud Picante a full wearing after my introduction video to all 4 scents. It is quite a stellar scent much more complicated and well balanced than last time. I get a heavy dose of musty cumin mixed with a boozy labdanum. Almost like dark rum. The labdanum is excellent like the one used in TF Amber Absolute org Form. The Oud makes an appearance soon with a sweet sexy aged woodiness a touch of south east wood incense. The Indian Oud is all glowy and no poo. The drydown shows a beautiful combination with sweet myrrh and a virtual tone of musk. Brilliant touch. One area of concern however like last time was extreme sensitisation with this one. It played hide and seek with me for 24 hours. Yeah really. At times when you think its gone it will hit you suddenly. This wasnt something I experienced with tha last 3 releases. Infact the projection was consistently powerful. But I dont find it anomalous as I use lots of Indian Oud. Indian Oud is really capable of inducing nasal fatigue within minutes however to people around you its like a nose bomb lol. Anyway, I think this new development really saves the blushes when you are around people with no idea about the golden side of perfumery ;-) Oud Picante is magical. Very tricky scent. Oud Zen was simple. This one is very naughty. I will post my views with other 3 very soon. Have a great day folks. I dont participate much because I handle 2 video channels but I read each and every post on BN. It truly is a blessing to perfume lovers like me. Cheers
 

Bangkok Hound

User of Toilet Water
Basenotes Plus
Nov 4, 2015
Hi everyone. I gave Oud Picante a full wearing after my introduction video to all 4 scents. It is quite a stellar scent much more complicated and well balanced than last time. I get a heavy dose of musty cumin mixed with a boozy labdanum. Almost like dark rum. The labdanum is excellent like the one used in TF Amber Absolute org Form. The Oud makes an appearance soon with a sweet sexy aged woodiness a touch of south east wood incense. The Indian Oud is all glowy and no poo. The drydown shows a beautiful combination with sweet myrrh and a virtual tone of musk. Brilliant touch. One area of concern however like last time was extreme sensitisation with this one. It played hide and seek with me for 24 hours. Yeah really. At times when you think its gone it will hit you suddenly. This wasnt something I experienced with tha last 3 releases. Infact the projection was consistently powerful. But I dont find it anomalous as I use lots of Indian Oud. Indian Oud is really capable of inducing nasal fatigue within minutes however to people around you its like a nose bomb lol. Anyway, I think this new development really saves the blushes when you are around people with no idea about the golden side of perfumery ;-) Oud Picante is magical. Very tricky scent. Oud Zen was simple. This one is very naughty. I will post my views with other 3 very soon. Have a great day folks. I dont participate much because I handle 2 video channels but I read each and every post on BN. It truly is a blessing to perfume lovers like me. Cheers

For those who don't know, this poster is Nikhil from the YouTube channel Exotic Scents: https://www.youtube.com/user/gobarboss/videos
You can really learn a lot from him.
 

ctboom

Basenotes Junkie
Jan 14, 2016
Flux De Fleur

This is a busy one. Love the incense in this, along with the spiciness which helps give it a soft earthiness underneath the other notes, which for simplicity sake are the florals and the grapefruit. The grapefruit is tart and candied, and comes out swinging at the head. The florals are white and very sweet. Toward the mid and drydown, the florals turn more classical, backdropped with a fruitiness that will probably evoke classic perfumery for many of you. And there's that incense, which I loved. It didn't appear so much as frankincense as a kind of nag champa accord, golden and russet, and earthy when combined with the spices, which I clearly get (they tingled my nose; there's also a snuffed candle accord that was frankly lovely but rather random in this context) but nothing to the degree as other reviews, nor was it so ambery as I had anticipated though the golden shamama is well striated beneath all. In fact, elements of this perfume reminded me of Bogue's MEM, i.e. grapefruit, earthy incense and florals. But where MEM's lavenders help the earthy tones of its other notes along, in this perfume, I couldn't quite simultaneously perceive the character of that earthy incense along with the type of very sweet peachy floral accord incorporated here, and I ultimately found the two accords a little bit dissonant. Still, I can see how others will love it, the grapefruit makes it quite good spirited, the quality of ingredients is top notch, and its rich without inducing fatigue.
 
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Vmaster

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 27, 2015
For those who don't know, this poster is Nikhil from the YouTube channel Exotic Scents: https://www.youtube.com/user/gobarboss/videos
You can really learn a lot from him.

He is personally responsible for at least $3,000 USD disappearing from my bank and magically turning into some really nice fragrances. :tongue:

But seriously, if it were not for him, I would never have heard of many of the fragrances from Arabia and India that I own today.
 

ace11

Basenotes Junkie
Nov 8, 2011
He is personally responsible for at least $3,000 USD disappearing from my bank and magically turning into some really nice fragrances. :tongue:

But seriously, if it were not for him, I would never have heard of many of the fragrances from Arabia and India that I own today.

He is very knowledgeable, has passion about fragrances and very accurate with his descriptions. Highly appreciate his work on his YT channel!
 

thebeck

Basenotes Dependent
Mar 25, 2007
For those wanting samples STC has them all now, and so does strifeknot.

It's going to be a tuff decision for me.

Prices for 5ml decants:

STC – Plus slow shipping - ----- STRIFEKNOT – includes fast shipping
Atlantic Ambergris - $130.71 - or - $40.00
Flux de Fleur - $130.71 -------- or - $45.50
Inverno Russo - $130.71 ------ or - $40.00
Oud Picante - $121.36 -------- -or - $35.00

Also notice Flux de Fleur costs $50.00 more per bottle than AA and IV but your paying the higher price of Flux de Fleur for those two.
Excuse me, I think I'm in need of counseling after being raped by those STC prices. You'll notice at least strifeknot's pricing is based on the bottle cost.
 
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Mudweasel

Basenotes Member
Nov 5, 2014
Received my sample pack today - varying degrees of leakage, but not too bad. I’m hopeless at describing perfumes and notes etc, preferring to concentrate on how they smell overall, so forgive my lack of detailed descriptions. Initial impressions are;

Our Picante - I had really high hopes for this, given how well Russian Adam works with oud and how much I liked Oud Zen. However, although clearly quality ingredients, I don’t find it anywhere near as satisfying as Oud Zen. I know very little about different types of oud (and am not generally an oud lover), but I think the oud used in Picante is a lot spicier than the one(s) in Zen and when you factor in all the other spice notes in Picante, the spices just overwhelmed me. The sandalwood didn’t develop into the smooth sandalwood of Zen and I was left a little flat. Still, at least I have Oud Zen!

Inverno Russo - again, had high hopes for this, given some people commenting that it was almost a cross between Siberian Musk and Ottoman Empire. Sadly for me, this one is a big no... although I can’t really put my finger on why. It’s not that it’s too animalic (I’ve several in my modest collection that trump it for that), but it just doesn’t seem to know what direction it wants to go in. Sorry I can’t be more specific.

Flux de Fleur - utterly gorgeous, with an immediate wow factor. In the very beginning, I thought that it might go off too sweet, but that is quickly tamed. However, I’m not 100% sure yet if this ones for me... I don’t generally give a monkeys about gender in perfumes, but this one (on first impressions and having only worn for about 8 hours) does lean a bit feminine (and bear in mind, I am more than happy wearing BaV and Mitsouko). I need further wearing to work out if I’m ok with it, or whether I like it because it’s how I would like my wife to smell...!!! FWIW, I don’t pick up on it being over-spiced, as Kafkaesque mentioned in their review (and I normally tend to agree with most of what they write)

Atlantic Ambergris - this one totally surprised me. I love ambergris as a note, but wasn’t expecting a great deal given the slightly lukewarm comments about this on here and Kafka's rather damning review. However, after a slightly quirky, but not unpleasant opening, this one develops beautifully on my skin. Yes, it wears fairly soft (I have skin that makes most perfumes disappear pretty quickly), but it lasts and lasts. No, it doesn’t project much, but even 8 hours after applying it, as I move about, I’m greeted by lovely subtle wafts of gloriously sweet, slightly oceanic, sensual ambergris. The thing is, I don’t overly pick up any other specific notes with this one; it just all seems to come together as 'one'.

I would suggest that, in general, these four aren’t quite up there with the first three - which as soon as I smelled I knew I would have to own all three of them. However, they’re still quality perfumes, the like we don’t see very much these days. I will definitely be picking up Atlantic Ambergris and will think about FdF, but the other two are a pass for me. I love Russian Adam's approach and look forward to how he continues to develop.
 

StellaDiverFlynn

Super Member
Oct 5, 2016
I'm testing Atlantic Ambergris today. Sadly, my experience seems to share a few similarities with Kafkaesque's review.

On my skin, clove rules almost from beginning to end. The clove is nose-piercing and fairly metallic in the opening. Combined with cool yet nebulous aromatic elements, it does hints at barbershop to me, as mentioned by Bangkok Hound and Diamondflame. The ambergris also becomes apparent very soon, with its lively, fresh seaweed-like oceanic aroma and a cool mineral nuance. The metallic nature of clove seems to exaggerate the mineral and oceanic aspects of ambergris, and the combined result is highly unusual and vibrant, as if the deconstruct-reconstruct-exaggerate technique used by Serge Lutens to create Tubéreuse Criminelle.

While I admire this phase in theory, I have difficulty to handle the scent physically. During the first 10 minutes, I'm fascinated by it. But the more I smell it, the more it reminds me of when I smelt costus, the odd juxtaposition of metallic fiber and animalic almost made my hair stand up. If this phase was briefer, it would be easier for me to enjoy it, but as this phase stretches for hours, albeit mellows with time, I can't help feeling nauseated.

The later stage sees the clove taking on a spicy dried fruit aroma. The mineral and oceanic aspects of ambergris are also significantly tamed. Its diffusive muskiness infuses the clove, the smoky papyrus, various resins and abstract floral creaminess, and brings a charming airiness to them, which makes a lovely smooth ambered skin scent.

While I didn't enjoy this fragrance as much as I wanted, I admire the idea of it, and it's definitely an interesting fragrance to experience. I blame either my skin bringing too much metallic aspect of clove and mineral aspect of ambergris, or my low tolerance towards these characteristics. Interestingly, while other Areej fragrances make me think of traditional French perfumes or attar, Atlantic Ambergris reminds me of a few avant-garde modern niche such as Oliver & Co. Nebulae No.1 EDT, no doubt because of the metallic aspect and smoky papyrus.
 

sobejjj

Super Member
May 25, 2016
It is fascinating how Atlantic Ambergris works so different on various skin types. I got a little bit of clove in the first phase and that's it. No metallic anything here. The most I get is the flowery barbershop feel in the first 4 hours and in the drydown I get something I couldn't first make a mental connection of, but than it hit me - it's quite similiar to L'Air du Desert Marocain. Don't ask me, I have no idea how, but yeah it must be the ambergris because the other notes are so different. I get the same whiffs here and there, sweet-ish, salt-ish, cream-ish, delightful really. Overall, I have pretty serious difficulties getting single notes out, it's like I'm smelling them through the ambergris glass. I'm sure this will change with more wears though. It is a pretty persistant fragrance and the sillage is very tame. In that regards it's like a bullet with Siberian Musk and Oud Zen being ballistic rockets. Overall, I like it very much and it is unique.

The other topic I'd like to discuss with you is the presentation. How do you guys like the new flacons? Personally, I love the new box, but I liked previous flacons more. I prefer wooden cup, it just captures the scent so beautifully, and the square shape holds worse in hand than the round one (it is less original too). The sprayer is miles better so that's a plus.
 

IsoESuperman

People of Zee Wurl, Relax
Basenotes Plus
Dec 30, 2015
Hi everyone. I gave Oud Picante a full wearing...The labdanum is excellent like the one used in TF Amber Absolute org Form

Great review, thanks. I agree, so far Oud Picante is my favorite from the new 4. The labdanum is what draws me in. I'm a big labdanum fan and it is the one oil I wear neat more than another, including Mysore.
 

Bangkok Hound

User of Toilet Water
Basenotes Plus
Nov 4, 2015
The other topic I'd like to discuss with you is the presentation. How do you guys like the new flacons? Personally, I love the new box, but I liked previous flacons more. I prefer wooden cup, it just captures the scent so beautifully, and the square shape holds worse in hand than the round one (it is less original too). The sprayer is miles better so that's a plus.

Presentation is important to me, so I've thought about old vs. new. Overall I think the new presentation fits the new scents better. The older scents and presentation seem more raw and rustic to me while the new scents and presentation seem more opulent. I too really liked the rounded bottles of the old ones though. I thought I would really miss the wooden caps, but the new metal ones are fine and do fit with the larger, square bottles better. I also really like the metal plates in place of the sticker labels. I actually took some pics comparing old and new, but ended up not posting them because I don't think many of us care too much about presentation. But, I really appreciate that Russian Adam put some thought into it.
 

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