Amyris inspiration-ideas-formulas

[Roeletti]

I got 100ml Amyris EO last month and i need some inspiration to use it.
How much can i feature it in a blend? What is the outcome when i use it heavily or sparingly in a formula? Do i need to feature a lot of other fixatives or not a lot if i use Amyris heavily?

I really need some directions to use it, how do you like to use Amyris?

It seems to go well with Labdanum, Vanilla, Ceder, Vetiver and heavy musks. (Cashmeran/Ambrettolide) But how do i make Amyris the biggest player here.
And what would be a good Heart compliment for the balsamic scent of Amyris. Ylang-Ylang, rose and chocolate?



I wanna go nuts on this stuff! I wanna burn throught that bottle like no tomorrow! Let me know and i'll try it!
Thanks in advance for participating in this thread.

(do i need to feauture a list of materials that i have?)

 

[ourmess]

I'd imagine the most common usage is making it the "core" for a sandalwood accord.

 

[Roeletti]

I'd imagine the most common usage is making it the "core" for a sandalwood accord.

That is a good idea, i'll go search for that.

 

[Yuri-G]

That is a good idea, i'll go search for that.

As well as the sandalwood mentioned above, you could play with the blackcurrant aspect of amyris and use some fruity molecules, or blackcurrant base.

 

[Roeletti]

As well as the sandalwood mentioned above, you could play with the blackcurrant aspect of amyris and use some fruity molecules, or blackcurrant base.

That strikes my eyes. I have some Beta Ionone that has some Blackcurrant aspects to it. Are there any materials that could inhance that?
Note, i don't have a ton of fruity molecules, but i have some basic Aldehydes/allyamylglycolaat/nectraat/benzyl propionaat/coniferan pure/fructone/isoamylisovaleraat. But none of that reminds me of Blackcurrant really.

 

[Yuri-G]

That strikes my eyes. I have some Beta Ionone that has some Blackcurrant aspects to it. Are there any materials that could inhance that?
Note, i don't have a ton of fruity molecules, but i have some basic Aldehydes/allyamylglycolaat/nectraat/benzyl propionaat/coniferan pure/fructone/isoamylisovaleraat. But none of that reminds me of Blackcurrant really.

The best blackcurrant I know is the firmenich cassis base. Others may have alternatives they can recommend. I am awaiting an order that includes paradisamide. That may also work.

I meant just general fruitiness, so those materials you have up there, maybe fruity musk like helvetolide, tonalid, ambrettolide etc.

 

[Roeletti]

The best blackcurrant I know is the firmenich cassis base. Others may have alternatives they can recommend. I am awaiting an order that includes paradisamide. That may also work.

I meant just general fruitiness, so those materials you have up there, maybe fruity musk like helvetolide, tonalid, ambrettolide etc.

Wauw yeah! Just started working on something. Slightly more focussed on smokey amyris, but the ambrettolide-beta ionone really give it a nice kick!

Thank you for your reply, it really helps me

 

[Bobby Seven]

Mixed with sandalore in equal parts and a tiny smidge of benzoin (and incorporate as much genuine sandalwood as you can IF you can afford it, otherwise leave it out) this makes quite a nice sandalwood/cedar type note that can be used heavily without taking over too much esp if your other materials are quite strong. I would try roughly something like this for a chypre type base

Amyris accord 15
Patchouli 2
Labdanum 1
Oakmoss 1
Ethelene brass 5

Then add some Florals, extend with PEA and overdose with a good bergamot.

I also think Amyris goes well with coffee, tobacco, hay abs and coumarin materials, iso e super (of course) cedramber and any or all of the orange materials.

 

[Yuri-G]

Mixed with sandalore in equal parts and a tiny smidge of benzoin (and incorporate as much genuine sandalwood as you can IF you can afford it, otherwise leave it out) this makes quite a nice sandalwood/cedar type note that can be used heavily without taking over too much esp if your other materials are quite strong. I would try roughly something like this for a chypre type base

Amyris accord 15
Patchouli 2
Labdanum 1
Oakmoss 1
Ethelene brass 5

Then add some Florals, extend with PEA and overdose with a good bergamot.

I also think Amyris goes well with coffee, tobacco, hay abs and coumarin materials, iso e super (of course) cedramber and any or all of the orange materials.

Love this idea of an amyris chypre!

 

[Roeletti]

Mixed with sandalore in equal parts and a tiny smidge of benzoin (and incorporate as much genuine sandalwood as you can IF you can afford it, otherwise leave it out) this makes quite a nice sandalwood/cedar type note that can be used heavily without taking over too much esp if your other materials are quite strong. I would try roughly something like this for a chypre type base

Amyris accord 15
Patchouli 2
Labdanum 1
Oakmoss 1
Ethelene brass 5

Then add some Florals, extend with PEA and overdose with a good bergamot.

I also think Amyris goes well with coffee, tobacco, hay abs and coumarin materials, iso e super (of course) cedramber and any or all of the orange materials.

Thank you so much for this comment! This is all the information i could ask for, wonderful. Tomorrow i see a ton of Chypre bases and Amyris accords in my future.

 

[Shrike]

I love amyris and use it frequently. It has so many uses that its hard to give advice, but I'll give you some suggestions as someone who likes to experiment with it often.

Use it with florals. Trust me.

Commercial Sandalwoods, especially those found in soaps, almost ubiquitously use it.

Personally, I've found that if you're looking for a smoky, fiery aspect, this is a go-to.

It makes a great blender for a lot of different families. Experiment with it using the Carles method!

 

[jameshillier]

Maybe check out the Tam Dao formula I posted a while ago which was based on amyris. You could just substitute any ingredient you don't have (Sandalwood Australian, for instance) with amyris .

 

[Yuri-G]

I have been playing around with this idea of an amyris chypre and have something I think is worth developing.

I combined amyris with the classic chypre bergamot, labdanum and oakmoss (I used evernyl) combo, and added styrallyl acetate, geraniol, patchouli EO, ambrettolide and velvione. Really like the bergamot/rhubarb opening, then there's a really lovely bracing bitterness, almost grapefruity, that comes in afterwards. Not 100% sure what's causing it, but l think it's the interplay of ambrettolide with one or more of the other materials. It wasn't really present until I included the ambrettolide. This bitterness fades after a while and I'm not in love with the ambrettolide-dominant drydown that's left behind.
I have some new materials on the way and want to explore a rhubarb/grapefruit/cassis angle with geranium and rose, and perhaps a touch of jasmine, for the heart.

 

[Roeletti]

I have been playing around with this idea of an amyris chypre and have something I think is worth developing.

I combined amyris with the classic chypre bergamot, labdanum and oakmoss (I used evernyl) combo, and added styrallyl acetate, geraniol, patchouli EO, ambrettolide and velvione. Really like the bergamot/rhubarb opening, then there's a really lovely bracing bitterness, almost grapefruity, that comes in afterwards. Not 100% sure what's causing it, but l think it's the interplay of ambrettolide with one or more of the other materials. It wasn't really present until I included the ambrettolide. This bitterness fades after a while and I'm not in love with the ambrettolide-dominant drydown that's left behind.
I have some new materials on the way and want to explore a rhubarb/grapefruit/cassis angle with geranium and rose, and perhaps a touch of jasmine, for the heart.

May i ask how much ambrettolide you used? Because i usually love the smell of it. Maybe add a little coumarin/vanillin/heliotropine to sooth that bitterness a little.

 

[Roeletti]

I love amyris and use it frequently. It has so many uses that its hard to give advice, but I'll give you some suggestions as someone who likes to experiment with it often.

Use it with florals. Trust me.

Commercial Sandalwoods, especially those found in soaps, almost ubiquitously use it.

Personally, I've found that if you're looking for a smoky, fiery aspect, this is a go-to.

It makes a great blender for a lot of different families. Experiment with it using the Carles method!

I'm in the same headspace. It loves working with florals and gives them a different aspect than normal. If you give the formula just a tad of benzylsalicylaat, the florals will stay more fresh and flowery. But without it, it alters the florals very balsamic and dark...which i love

 

[Roeletti]

I just tried this, so i'll have to wait the drydown. But this is a bit of every idea as a starting point. A bit floral, smokey, orange and cassis ish. Forgot the fruityness though. But not really in one direction. Let's see:

Bergamot	14.42%	Linalool	3%	Geraniol	1.2%
Amyris	12.01%	Kephalis	2.4%	Ylang Ylang	0.48%
Beta Ionone	8.41%	Alfa ionone	2.4%	litsea cubeba	0.48%
Santaliff	8.41%	Fenylethylalcohol	2.4%	Cashmeran	0.48%
Timbersilk	8.41%	Methylanthranilaat	2.4%	Methylbenzoaat	0.36%
Neroli Accord	6%	labdanum	1.8%	Coumarin	0.24%
Hedione	6%	Methylatrataat (moss)	1.44%	Suederal	0.24%
Galaxolide	6%	Isobutylfenylacetaat	1.2%
Patchouli	3.6%	Benzion	1.2%
Citronellol	3.6%	Ambrettolide	1.2%

 

[Roeletti]

This was the formula for a more simple floral mid, more topnotes and a much more simple and smokey base. It has a great wear. But leans more feminine and the Ylang-ginger eat up a lot of the smell: (amber is the simple labdanum-vanillin-benzoin)

Amyris	24.86%	Mahagonate	4.14%	Litsea Cubeba	0.41%
Fenylethalalcohol	7.25%	Manderin	3.11%	Ylang Ylang	0.41%
Rosewood EO	7.25%	linalylacetaat	3.11%	Methylbenzoaat	0.21%
Hedione	8.29%	Benzylsalicytaat	2.07%	Ethal Maltol	0.1%
Timbersilk	6.22%	Benzylpropionaat	2.07%
Coniferan Pure	6.22%	Olibanum	2.07%
Kephalis	5.18%	Ambrettolide	1.66%
Amber accord	4.14%	Bergamot	1.04%
Cashmeran	4.14%	Citronellol	1.04%
Beta Ionone	4.14%	Ginger Root EO	0.83%

 

[Roeletti]

And the last one for today. The Base heavy Vanilla, sweet, balsamic and chocolaty one. This one is just for fun:

Hedione	12.11%	Isobutylfenylacetaat	4.24%	Benzylacetaat	0.61%
Amyris	10.9%	Beta Ionone	3.63%	Methylcyclopentenolon	0.48%
Santaliff	7.27%	Alfa ionone	3.63%	Ylang Ylang	0.24%
Timbersilk	7.27%	Olibanum	3.03%	Suedral	0.24%
Bergamot	7.27%	Cinnamon aldehyde	2.72%	Aldehyde c18	0.12%
Linalyl	6.66%	Ambrettolide	2.42%	Ethal Maltol	0.12%
Vanillin	6.06%	Methylanthranilaat	2.42%	Methylbenzoaat	0.12%
Kephalis	4.84%	Vetiver	1.45%
Heliotropex	4.84%	Fructone	1.21%
Galaxolide	4.84%	Patchouli	1.21%

 

[Hanna Hoch]

I got 100ml Amyris EO last month and i need some inspiration to use it.
How much can i feature it in a blend? What is the outcome when i use it heavily or sparingly in a formula? Do i need to feature a lot of other fixatives or not a lot if i use Amyris heavily?

I really need some directions to use it, how do you like to use Amyris?

It seems to go well with Labdanum, Vanilla, Ceder, Vetiver and heavy musks. (Cashmeran/Ambrettolide) But how do i make Amyris the biggest player here.
And what would be a good Heart compliment for the balsamic scent of Amyris. Ylang-Ylang, rose and chocolate?



I wanna go nuts on this stuff! I wanna burn throught that bottle like no tomorrow! Let me know and i'll try it!
Thanks in advance for participating in this thread.

(do i need to feauture a list of materials that i have?)

Hello, I am very new to DIY perfumery. I am experimenting with 10g of Amyris EO but because it is a somewhat thick substance and difficult to work with, I wanted to dilute it in alcohol denat but the solution was very cloudy (not transparent, roily).

Could you tell me how you use your Amyris? Do I use it pure or diluted? In what solvent do I dilute it and in what percentage? Thanks!

 

[Roeletti]

Hello, I am very new to DIY perfumery. I am experimenting with 10g of Amyris EO but because it is a somewhat thick substance and difficult to work with, I wanted to dilute it in alcohol denat but the solution was very cloudy (not transparent, roily).

Could you tell me how you use your Amyris? Do I use it pure or diluted? In what solvent do I dilute it and in what percentage? Thanks!

I use it diluted at 50% in alcohol. Be sure to measure it in grams not ML.

 

[Hanna Hoch]

I use it diluted at 50% in alcohol. Be sure to measure it in grams not ML.

Thanks!
And you have no problem avec the transparency and the colour of the dilution? Mine is really "derty dim", I am afraid that this could alter the transparency of the final composition

 

[Roeletti]

No not a problem at all. It might be a little cloudy looking, but that is not gonna effect the final perfume very much. Things like Labdanum resenoid and Mandarin EO are much more inpactfull on the final colour of your perfume.

 

[Septime]

Here's a historical amyris recipe I got from an Anonis article on Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine:

Early 20th century sandalwood cologne from India:
350 Sandalwood East Indian
250 Amyris
150 Geraniol
100 Guaiacwood
100 Jasmin synthetic
50 Petitgrain Paraguay

 

[mnitabach]

Here's a historical amyris recipe I got from an Anonis article on Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine:

Early 20th century sandalwood cologne from India:
350 Sandalwood East Indian
250 Amyris
150 Geraniol
100 Guaiacwood
100 Jasmin synthetic
50 Petitgrain Paraguay

Very interesting! Seems like an absurdly high amount of guaiac? Altho something like this would be a very low concentration in EtOH, like one or two percent?

 

[pkiler]

Very interesting! Seems like an absurdly high amount of guaiac?

I was just reading yesterday that currently, an acid is used during the distillation of Guaiacwood, to increase production from the stock, but this also adds the bacon note to our product. In the past, this bacon note was absent, and production was lower. Seems obvious to me that older Guaiacwood smelled differently than what we use today. In that case, the amount of Guaiacwood may have been just right...

 

[mnitabach]

I was just reading yesterday that currently, an acid is used during the distillation of Guaiacwood, to increase production from the stock, but this also adds the bacon note to our product. In the past, this bacon note was absent, and production was lower. Seems obvious to me that older Guaiacwood smelled differently than what we use today. In that case, the amount of Guaiacwood may have been just right...

Interesting! I have also wondered about olde tyme oakmoss being substantially different (weaker?) than what is produced today (speaking solely about non-ifra-compliant). In some vintage formulas the oakmoss dose seems ridiculous & would completely obliterate everything if I used some of my modern moss materials at such levels.

 

[pkiler]

Interesting! I have also wondered about olde tyme oakmoss being substantially different (weaker?) than what is produced today (speaking solely about non-ifra-compliant). In some vintage formulas the oakmoss dose seems ridiculous & would completely obliterate everything if I used some of my modern moss materials at such levels.

I think this is likely. Also, my 95 year old Birch tar is significantly weaker than current production...

 

[Septime]

Very interesting! Seems like an absurdly high amount of guaiac? Altho something like this would be a very low concentration in EtOH, like one or two percent?

Here's the article I got it from, which doesn't specify. Citation says it came from Otto Gerhardt's 'Das Komponieren in der Parfuemeri,' p. 228 of the 1931 edition. Google Books doesn't appear to have a preview, nor can I find it on Archive.org. Anyone else familiar with that title?

 

[Alex F.]

The formula is called "Santal Nr. 397". If you search for it on Google Books, you'll find a snippet-preview, showing that the amounts are correct, and that the formula is listed under the title Artikel für Indien ("items for India").
It's difficult to assess formulas taken out of context. I don't have the book, so I can't check whether there's any more information regarding the intended usage (alcohol- or oil-based, or functional product). But in my experience, guaiac wood blends in well with floral notes. I don't think it would stand out in a floral woody mix like this.

 

[Big L]

Last summer, I worked very heavily with Amyris for a while. The idea was to try to produce oil-based perfumes inspired by the concept of traditional attars, or actually, the more modern Mukhallat.

I decided to use Amyris oil for the bulk of these formulas, as a soft and balsamic, affordable alternative to Sandalwood. Some of you had a chance to sniff it. Others have seen photos on my Instagram account. Still, I don't remember posting any of the formulas yet.

Here is a simple one that I believe is very good for communicating the essence of this project:

Amyris Mini Mukhallat
Amyris Bark Oil	600
Hedione	95
Sylvamber	70
Kephalis	60
Macrolide Supra	35
Cashmeran	35
Cetalox	35
Labdanum Resinoid	12
Animalis 1745-03	12
Ylang Ylang Extra	10
Oud Synthetic 184007	10
Helvetolide	5
Coumarin	5
Vanillin	5
Tonquitone	5
Oud Samrat 283527	2
Ambrocenide	2
indole	2
Total	1000

I like this one, especially because of the unique yet familiar effect it provides while not having a single sandalwood molecule in it. It is, of course, very easy to add some (as well as many other things)

 

[Roeletti]

Last summer, I worked very heavily with Amyris for a while. The idea was to try to produce oil-based perfumes inspired by the concept of traditional attars, or actually, the more modern Mukhallat.

I decided to use Amyris oil for the bulk of these formulas, as a soft and balsamic, affordable alternative to Sandalwood. Some of you had a chance to sniff it. Others have seen photos on my Instagram account. Still, I don't remember posting any of the formulas yet.

Here is a simple one that I believe is very good for communicating the essence of this project:

Amyris Mini Mukhallat
Amyris Bark Oil	600
Hedione	95
Sylvamber	70
Kephalis	60
Macrolide Supra	35
Cashmeran	35
Cetalox	35
Labdanum Resinoid	12
Animalis 1745-03	12
Ylang Ylang Extra	10
Oud Synthetic 184007	10
Helvetolide	5
Coumarin	5
Vanillin	5
Tonquitone	5
Oud Samrat 283527	2
Ambrocenide	2
indole	2
Total	1000

I like this one, especially because of the unique yet familiar effect it provides while not having a single sandalwood molecule in it. It is, of course, very easy to add some (as well as many other things)

Looking nice! i got the bulk of those materials and will give it a go. Thanks for charing with us.

 

[Roeletti]

Last summer, I worked very heavily with Amyris for a while. The idea was to try to produce oil-based perfumes inspired by the concept of traditional attars, or actually, the more modern Mukhallat.

I decided to use Amyris oil for the bulk of these formulas, as a soft and balsamic, affordable alternative to Sandalwood. Some of you had a chance to sniff it. Others have seen photos on my Instagram account. Still, I don't remember posting any of the formulas yet.

Here is a simple one that I believe is very good for communicating the essence of this project:

Amyris Mini Mukhallat
Amyris Bark Oil	600
Hedione	95
Sylvamber	70
Kephalis	60
Macrolide Supra	35
Cashmeran	35
Cetalox	35
Labdanum Resinoid	12
Animalis 1745-03	12
Ylang Ylang Extra	10
Oud Synthetic 184007	10
Helvetolide	5
Coumarin	5
Vanillin	5
Tonquitone	5
Oud Samrat 283527	2
Ambrocenide	2
indole	2
Total	1000

I like this one, especially because of the unique yet familiar effect it provides while not having a single sandalwood molecule in it. It is, of course, very easy to add some (as well as many other things)

So i just made your formula. I don't have your beautifull oud materials and all the musks. So i went a little more leather and smoky, but kept the bulk the same.
Also i have Amyris EO and not the Bark version. So mines more balsamic and less creamy. I added a bit of Bacdanol. But it's still very balsamic. Here's what i just made:

Amyris EO	500
Bacdanol	100
Hedione	100
Sylvamber	70
Kephalis	60
Cashmeran	36
Macrolide	34
Cetalox	34
Vetiver EO Sri Lanka	16
Habanolide Subst	12

Labdanum Resinoid	10
Ylang Ylang iii	10
Vanillin	5
Coumarin	4
Ambrettolide	2
Suedral	2
Indole	2
Castoreum Synth	2
Civette Synth	1
Total	1000

I made it and sprayed it right away. So it still has to mature for a couple weeks. But right now the Indole is way to high for me. I use it in trace amounts and it always finds a way to attack me in the nose. Maybe that is just me haha.
On the other hand this is a nice way to get to know Amyris EO. It works wonders with Cetalox. I did not know that! Also the very tiny amount of sweetness is something for me to consider using more often. I always go sweet haha.

Would you use this formula as a whole perfume, or more as a accord?

 

[Alex F.]

I added a bit of Bacdanol.

Bacdanol

100

🤏

 

[pkiler]

I got 100ml Amyris EO last

After recently buying a pound from PA, and finding it vastly different from another supplier, I should inquire about your source, and also ask what it smells line like to you, and what you like about it?

 

[Big L]

Would you use this formula as a whole perfume, or more as a accord?

Something in between. I use it as the base of the formula to build a complete perfume on top of it.
I used it at 35% of the final formula and, in one case, even up to 90%. Someone I know liked this base so much that I gave him a bottle of the exact formula, diluted to EdP concentration, and he is using it as his signature perfume.

 

[Roeletti]

After recently buying a pound from PA, and finding it vastly different from another supplier, I should inquire about your source, and also ask what it smells line like to you, and what you like about it?

It's called amyris balsamifera and it comes from west India. I don't know the supplier.

I would discribe it as mostly smoky, dry and balsamic. Not very woody, like Sandelwood/Cederwood/vetiver/myrrhe. Slightly green as petitgrain. And absolutely nothing like the synthetic sandelwoods i have owned. Not smooth, sweet and milky at all.

What i like about it most. It blends real nice with a ton of materials and it never stands out in the composition of the final perfume.

Something in between. I use it as the base of the formula to build a complete perfume on top of it.
I used it at 35% of the final formula and, in one case, even up to 90%. Someone I know liked this base so much that I gave him a bottle of the exact formula, diluted to EdP concentration, and he is using it as his signature perfume.

I think around 35% would be my safe space. If i lower the Indole for myself.
That to me, would lend it nicely for some floral perfumes and amber perfumes. Girthy floral and amber perfumes.

Thanks again for sharing your idea. I really learned from it and it got me inspired!