Acqua di Parma Ingredients Collection/Signatures of the Sun | Basenotes

Acqua di Parma Ingredients Collection/Signatures of the Sun

Your favourite Acqua di Parma from the original Ingredients Collection / Signatures of the Sun

  • Ambra / Colonia Ambra

    Votes: 3 20.0%
  • Leather / Colonia Leather

    Votes: 8 53.3%
  • Oud / Colonia Oud

    Votes: 4 26.7%

  • Total voters
    15
  • This poll will close: .

rum

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Mar 17, 2011
I've been meaning to start a thread and a poll with this topic for some time.

As part of the Ingredients Collection, the scents were previously named with the word 'Colonia' in front of them, came in dark brown bottles and were all Eau de Cologne Concentree strength. In 2019, they all had the word 'Colonia' removed from their name and were relaunched as Eau de Parfums in black bottles as part of the Signatures of the Sun collection.

So which are your favourites?

I've tried all in both collections, but have never owned any for various reasons. I've recently spent time giving each one a proper wearing. I see that it's easy to like all three, or have more than one favourite and each has its own fan base. I am not interested in differences between the two versions (EdC vs EdP), but I am interested in hearing which ones are everyone's favourite(s) and why.

Here is my opinion on each:

- Ambra: The reviews in the directory have long been totally against this one and I am not sure why. It has a wonderful opening of leather and rose, although I think I am might be anosmic to the base: I can only detect a faint musky-wood accord. On paper or card the base is wonderful. Nothing overpowering here, quite delicate and soft with some well-blended florals in the top and woven through the heart.

- Leather: I'm not a fan of the TF equivalents, but this one is the most wearable of the 'modern leathers' (as I like to call them) in that kind of genre. It comes off as quite a harsh leather note, underpinned with woods and a distinct birch tar. Although I love and wear scents like Bel Ami and Perfecto Fino, I love my scents fresh, so I have long dismissed this as unwearable. However, I can smell this on my skin well into double-digit hours after spraying and the tester card a few feet from me comes off as something really addictive.

- Oud: Has one of the nicest openings in a fragrance. Not being an oud fan you may ask questions as to what I am doing smelling this, but it's easily one of the most wearable ouds on sale today. It doesn't last that long on my skin, yet it isn't as powerful as the Leather. AdP's Oud is like a marriage of two opposites: East meets West. The way the Colonia accord has been smashed together with the Oud and other woods is really worthy of praise.

So am I going to get all 3, or is there a clear winner here? Am I seeing things differently?

Please vote (and pick more than one if necessary) and leave your comments :dankk2:
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Voted for Ambra but of all AdP line-up (including black/brown, blu and clear bottles), these 3 are the most impressive, together with a couple of fragrances of the 'Note di Colonia' high end line.

Ambra is my favourite bby an inch, and shares some similarities with oud (also great), but Ambra is a bit more versatile and round. Ambra is indeed a beautiful leathery rose, on a base of musky ambergris. I own both Colonia Ambra and Colonia Oud (brown bottles).

Leather is not really comparable to the previous 2. But it is a big winner in front of Tuscan Leather (and the likes), and even more considering one can have this one for under $100 online. I already own several leather fragrances, so I passed on that one, but it's really a great one. That said, I agree wiith you that this one is opulent, and not easy to wear.

These 3 are not the most refined fragrances ever, but probably the best bang-for-the-buck in terms of elegant utilitarian fragrances, with great performance.

Note: I am pretty sure that Ambra will unfairly arrive 3rd, because many people have never smelt it, as opposed to Oud and Leather.
 

rum

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Mar 17, 2011
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Thanks for your thoughts, Andy. Always appreciated.

I suppose another plus point of Ambra is the lack of any distinct ambrox note. If there is any in it, they've managed to disguise it in there very well. The Sauvage line for example is loaded full of the stuff to the point it gets quite overwhelming. Ambra is totally wearable and feels quite light.

As an aside, I'm not sure if my next point is much to write about, but I stumbled upon the following thread, started exactly a year ago to the day talking about the same subject that we both contributed to:
https://www.basenotes.net/threads/480974-acqua-di-parma-colonia-brown-and-black-collection
That's a little spooky!
 

Brooks Otterlake

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Feb 12, 2019
I've only tried leather, which I think is rather nice, though I think the market now offers a number of good takes on the TF "suederal" accord, so it has some competition.

(For the record, my favorite of the TF-ish "suederal" leathers is Bois 1920 Oro, which is a cozy, soft scent that mingles the leather accord with creamy beeswax and a tobacco base, softening out its harsh edges.)

I've been meaning to check out Ambra, but I haven't made it a priority yet.
 

rum

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Mar 17, 2011
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Cheers, Brooks.

I have to say I am a little surprised Oud hasn't even had a mention yet or a vote. I thought it might come out on top, but I suppose it's still early days.
 

MegaMav

Well-known member
Dec 12, 2013
Tried them all.
Own 2 bottles of the leather EDT and just samples of the Ambra and Oud.
Ambra is the safest, but it's also leathery in a different way.
Oud is just a bit too sour for me.
Leather is sharp, " kiwi shoe polish" dressy. Nice stuff.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
I enjoy oud the most -- it's not an "oud" fragrance at all it's just a woody oud synth, but it's well done and there aren't that many oud + citrus perfumes out there. Leather is nice as an ambient smell, but there's nothing to break up the leather at all and it's just too much.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Thanks for your thoughts, Andy. Always appreciated.

I suppose another plus point of Ambra is the lack of any distinct ambrox note. If there is any in it, they've managed to disguise it in there very well. The Sauvage line for example is loaded full of the stuff to the point it gets quite overwhelming. Ambra is totally wearable and feels quite light.

As an aside, I'm not sure if my next point is much to write about, but I stumbled upon the following thread, started exactly a year ago to the day talking about the same subject that we both contributed to:
https://www.basenotes.net/threads/480974-acqua-di-parma-colonia-brown-and-black-collection
That's a little spooky!

The synth ambergris they use in Ambra is probably better than the basic ambroxan.

As for the other thread... yes it's spooky haha!
Interesting to read that I used to slightly prefer Oud, while now I put Ambra first. Anyways, both are great.
 

checkmate

Well-known member
Sep 8, 2013
I’d say that Ámbra and Leather are tied…

I find both ADP’s Leather and La Yukawam by Rasasi nicer and much more pleasurable to wear than TF’s Tuscan Leather.

I thought Oud was ok but there wasn’t enough of a “wow” factor to purchase it.
 

cacio

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Nov 5, 2010
My favorite, and the only one I own, is colonia leather. It is indeed a modern sharp leather, but I like the fact that here it is paired with citrus, which keeps it dry and sharp and at the same time a bit fresh.
 

rum

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Mar 17, 2011
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The synth ambergris they use in Ambra is probably better than the basic ambroxan.

Have to agree with you here. It’s an easy to wear scent that doesn’t feel rough at all.

I’d say that Ámbra and Leather are tied…

I find both ADP’s Leather and La Yukawam by Rasasi nicer and much more pleasurable to wear than TF’s Tuscan Leather.

I thought Oud was ok but there wasn’t enough of a “wow” factor to purchase it.

Agree with you on the Leather scent but I thought Oud was blended really well with the colonia fresh notes in the opening.

I enjoy oud the most -- it's not an "oud" fragrance at all it's just a woody oud synth, but it's well done and there aren't that many oud + citrus perfumes out there. Leather is nice as an ambient smell, but there's nothing to break up the leather at all and it's just too much.

It doesn’t come across as your average oud “stinker” as so many others do, does it?

I have my concerns as to how “wearable” leather is but it is divine on paper/card.
 

rum

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Mar 17, 2011
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Voted Leather. Had it for quite a few years now and love it. I should wear it more often.

Tried the other two (had samples of Ambra, which I found hard going sometimes) but I just love the way they handled the rose with the citrus in Leather.

It is indeed quite a unique accord and that’s my favourite part of Ambra as well.

I don't get Colonia Oud at all.

Oud? The opening is nice enough, but the base isn't oud. It's norlimbanol, which means it's harsh, scratchy and cheap. I expected so much better from AdP.

Yes the opening of Oud quite well crafted but I never got anything interesting from the base. You’re right about the cypriol in the base though. I think they have toned it down somewhat in the black bottle (EdP version), but it could just be my imagination as well.

Looks like Leather is ploughing ahead in the poll!
 

woodnotes55

Well-known member
Oct 27, 2016
Ok, I'm too late, I voted for Oud. Cue the "but it's not oud" comment... oops, it's already here!!!! Maybe I'm not that aware as not an oud fanatic, but I thought like 90% of oud fragrances are not really oud so what's the difference, it's more a label....

Anyway, I only have experience with the brown versions not the black and I like all in the poll but lean very slightly towards the oud. It has a slightly sharp bit at the beginning almost like some vetivers then calms down. From there on it's a good mix of wood/dark wood scents including the "fake oud", and just a very small amount of citrus for balance. It stays a mainly wood scent for a long time, get above average longevity. I don't think the original scents in the brown (or black) line are for everyone, but for people leaning to slightly darker wood scents they are quite nice.
 

deltasun

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2017
One of my first forays into oud-based fragrance, regardless of how much oud there is. It's still my favorite from the three, though I've been enjoying Leather lately. Ambra would have to come in third, but did catch my attention while testing again lately.
 

rum

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Mar 17, 2011
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So it looks like Leather is the most popular in the poll (although only just). It's the one I'm leaning towards as it is such a better interpretation of the accord than anything TF has produced (though I do like the jasmine/cardamom in the signature OL).

Ambra is probably my second favourite, though I'm still not entirely sure if it's bottle worthy for me.
 

rum

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Does anyone have any experience of a “Special Edition” of Colonia Leather? It came in a 180ml size in the “Eau de Cologne Concentree” strength.

I think the bottle came with a leather band that was wrapped all around the bottle.

Does anyone have any comments as to how it smelled compared to the “normal” 100ml bottle and the current Leather Eau de Parfum?
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Does anyone have any experience of a “Special Edition” of Colonia Leather? It came in a 180ml size in the “Eau de Cologne Concentree” strength.

I think the bottle came with a leather band that was wrapped all around the bottle.

Does anyone have any comments as to how it smelled compared to the “normal” 100ml bottle and the current Leather Eau de Parfum?

The brown series was first issued as 'Colonia Intensa XXXX Eau de Cologne Concentree', then as 'Colonia XXXX Eau de Cologne Concentree', and finally as black bottled 'XXXX' (Eau de Parfum).

In regard to the scents and strength, there was no differences between brown Colonia Intensa EDCC and brown Colonia EDCC.
In terms of scent, the differences with the current black EDP bottles are minor (if any). As for strength, I'm not sure as I have only tried the black bottles on paper, but again I doubt there is a big difference, since the EDCCs already performed as EDPs (and for some closer to an Extrait).

My reasonable guess is that these are just packaging changes.
 

rum

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Mar 17, 2011
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Does anyone have any experience of a “Special Edition” of Colonia Leather? It came in a 180ml size in the “Eau de Cologne Concentree” strength.

I think the bottle came with a leather band that was wrapped all around the bottle.

Does anyone have any comments as to how it smelled compared to the “normal” 100ml bottle and the current Leather Eau de Parfum?

Just to clarify what I am asking is for information on this specific Special Edition:

s-l225_1024x1024.jpg
 

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