AbdesSalaam Attar / La Via del Profumo - official fragrance discussion thread

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
P.S. I find it incredible that it's been 4 years in between! A difficult period of my life had followed shortly after in 2019 and a lot of things fell by the wayside. I've been picking the pieces back up, slowly, but I wish I came back to rediscover these beautiful fragrances sooner!

Better later than never, I suppose :)
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
arche resize.jpg

First thoughts:

I’m stunned. Awestruck. Words don’t do this justice but I must try. My very first thought was, it’s as if Salaam gathered precious flowering plants from an imagined fantasy land and transformed it into liquid, together with the headspace of other imaginary scents that must have been in its daydreamt surroundings. It’s transparent and deeply hypnotic at the same time. Two qualities I don’t think I’ve encountered in a single perfume together.

There is a lot of violet leaf, which I love; the absolute of violet leaf is one of my favorite smells and I chose it as one of the main accord notes. Patchouli shows a character in this I don’t think I’ve ever encountered elsewhere either. In fact, I had difficulty identifying it at first, because it’s nothing like anything else patchouli I’ve smelled. It’s like a clear delicate tone of watery musk, and was one of the first things I smelled when sprayed. Maybe it's coming from the other supporting notes, blended with it so smoothly I can't tell which I'm smelling at any given time.

The magnolia note is the most enigmatic and mysterious I've ever smelled. Especially when "enigmatic" and "mysterious" are not words I normally associate with magnolia. A watery, darker magnolia: not somber, exactly, but it's serene and calm, beatific. All the more astounding given the naturally cheerful fruity-floral character of the raw material. And clary sage here is, somehow, positively narcotic, heady. Almost as though it could inebriate. (Addendum from later: In fact I think that is true of this whole perfume; the more I wear it, the more I feel like I'm almost getting drunk on it!)

And the whole is, of course, so much more than the sum of the parts, as it always is with this house.

I will be doing a full write up on this here once I’ve spent some time with this: together with the custom process, naming, and the notes list I’ve picked and all. For now, I’m just going to enjoy it. If enjoy is the right word. Maybe appreciate in a dreamy trance is more like it.
 
Last edited:

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
Warning: extremely long post of gushing praise and backstory ahead!

Arche

Carrying whiffs from the fragrance, every breeze coming into the room is transformed into something delicate and ethereal. If I were some marketing copy writer who gets to make up a notes pyramid, I’d claim there’s a pure dew water accord, because that's what I smell framing the fragrance: droplets of pure dew water from mist condensation.

What the notes really are, at least what I had chosen:

Main notes: Magnolia, violet leaves, clary sage
Full list: Magnolia, violet leaves, clary sage, blue chamomile, rose (Bulgarian - EO), sandalwood (Australia santalum album), patchouli


I told Salaam that for the notes, I was inspired by the chrysanthemum flower. In his reply, he said two things: one, that he could tell from the notes I picked that the perfume would smell stupendous (which was prescient!). Two, he warned me that he couldn’t make the perfume smell like a chrysanthemum flower. (He was also kind enough to give his illuminating thoughts on the relationship between a perfumer and his work with a lovely poem by Kahlil Gibran, which resonated with me very much as a writer.)

I said I didn’t mind. What I actually didn’t tell him---mainly because I was too self-conscious!---was that I had mentioned the chrysanthemum was because its scent was the best approximation I had for the “mental headspace” of a short story I wrote privately a few years ago when I was 23.

And the choosing of the notes came from this fantasy headspace: the dripping wet earth of violet leaves and patchouli, herbal clary sage and blue chamomile, dewy and aquatic flowers, an underpinning of sandalwood, the list put together in a way where I hoped each could bridge smoothly into the others. Of course the magic of AbdesSalaam Attar perfumes is that even unexpected notes come together smoothly, but in this case I hoped also for the ingredients to have a kind of tonal harmony (to me). Like how I think about the sound of words when I write my fiction.

Though, I confess really the list mostly came to me in one go and I was confident it was the right one simply because it seemed to me to be so! haha.

Arche refers to an ancient hypothesis about the underlying first principle and essence of all things, a substance from which all things originate and into which all things resolve. The short story behind the inspiration was titled, “The Flowers of Arche”: hence the naming. Narrated by an amnesiac, the story (written privately for myself, shared with some friends and family) was the inspiration for coming up with the notes for Arche, the perfume.

(excerpt)
Code:
Drumbeats of rain thrum down to earth in the night with a dull persistence, the downpour drenching everything in its doldrum rhythm; the percussive purr of thunder roils and echoes in the distance. The grass crushed beneath my soaked shoes might have respired their last breath of life just about now. I wouldn’t be surprised, given the not inconsiderable span of time that has passed here in the rain,  long past the scheduled hour, while I waited for my friend to show up at his own door.  The conditions aren’t exactly favorable for the flooded lawn, either.

(...)

A variety of plant life blooms and flowers there, most of their colorful petals and foliage presently drooping under the weight of the rain showers. The red poppies and white poplar trees were at my request, as magical symbols and ingredients; the rest of them are not. I don’t recognize them, either.

Upon asking about them, my friend told me they were decorative. They aren’t bad looking, I suppose.

When I asked again later, he admitted that it was because someone once very dear to him had been fond of them. A sentimental thing, he said. A way of remembering.

So all in all about as decorative as someone who displays a portrait of a dead spouse in their drawing room.

It’s the same for the red poppy flowers, when I think about it. Once the symbol of Lethe, the river of forgetting—these days, when you see them you are more likely to find them intended to honor the memory of fallen souls, the memory of those who no longer are here in life. War memorials, and so forth.

The ancient images of forgetting, in the passage of time since, have become modern icons of remembrance.

How unfitting. Ironic, even. But I can’t deny there’s something poignant about it.

Words come to mind. Did I read them somewhere once, or am I making it all up now? All the same, the words are clear to me.

“Having been is also a kind of being, and perhaps the surest kind."

Code:
An improbable sensation tingles down my spine, like a ghostly perturbation. Like the spectral waft of ozone in petrichor left behind, where blinding lightning had raced down and struck once in the rain. It passes in an instant—the blink of an eye—and it’s now dark again where it was once briefly bright; but the unmistakable waft of ozone is left behind all the same. At least, for a little while.

So for this little while, as I pass the time idly waiting in the rain and looking at the flowering plants my friend spends so much of his free time carefully tending in memoriam, I consider the portent of words I may or may not have read once upon a time.

There does seem to be evidence of their truth in my friend. He is bound by that which is no longer present, and yet still seemingly real. The vibrant flowers speak to that much.

He uses the word, loss. He also uses the word, absence.

But how can you experience absence? How can you experience nothingness? How can what is defined by the nothingness of being still nonetheless feel real, be real?

No, what he and others like him experience is not mere absence. It is the presence of an absence.

Code:
It was there. It is there. All that has changed is the “where.”

That must be “loss.”


I told myself that whatever the perfume would turn out to be, I would smell it for itself. The inspiration for it was my story, but that that was only a precursor to its creation.

The rest was left at the hands of the perfumer: in the hands of the perfumer, it would become itself. To loosely paraphrase Salaam a bit. :)

And then---when “Arche” the perfume came back to me, for me, it was indeed itself, defying the imagination: A cool rainy day herbal-green watery floral, full and round and delicate. At the same time, to me it undeniably shared some of the soul of the story. A tranquility that is not marred from, but rather elevated through melancholy and a hint of wistfulness.

Ethereal blooms of magnolia and a hint of illuminating rose weave through the violet leaves and clary sage, warmed with the herbal sweetness of ever so slightly smoky blue chamomile, grounded by delicate damp patchouli, and a hum of sandalwood through its heart. Long into the dry down, the intertwined muscatel-like fragrance of magnolia and clary sage lingers.

A few days before the package arrived, I couldn’t help asking Salaam what he thought of the perfume. He said I didn’t have long to find out, which was true enough! And then he added, “Stupendous and stunning. This is it.”

And that it is. Even more than I could’ve hoped for. It’s beautiful, sedating (the blue chamomile maybe?), and making me giddy—I think I might be inhaling just a bit too much air from how eagerly I try to sniff it! At the same time, it's a perfume of being in a place of peace and acceptance.

Scent cannot truly be conveyed through words, nor a picture, but perhaps they can all share in a relatedness of spirit. An concept illustration of the story was drawn for me by a Japanese illustrator featuring the main character (a doodle of whom is also my avatar). I thought I would share it here, because its hues and transparent colors and contrasts between light and dark, recalls to me something of this fragrance.


Arche - resize.jpg

“The Flowers of Arche”

Profoundly subtle and beautiful work from Salaam on this perfume. I’m torn between feelings of wanting to wear it every single day and thinking it deserves only the days where I can be fully present, to share in its beauty. I think the latter camp has the upper hand: it's that kind of special perfume.


arche resize 2.jpg

Thank you, Salaam. And to anyone who has read all this way (!!) thank you for reading.

To conclude, in case anyone's on the fence about getting their own custom perfume from Salaam---I'd say go for it! For me it's been the experience of a lifetime.

And next time I sit down to write again, I'll be sure to do so with Arche in my company 💚



Addendum: And I ordered 15 ml bottles of Venezia and Night Blossom for good measure!
 
Last edited:

Dava

Basenotes Member
Jun 28, 2015
It's great to have such a beautiful result! Your inspiration is poetic. Just look at its color! So many violet leaves must be wonderful!
I also ordered my custom perfume from Salaam for Valentine's Day, I will receive it in a few days, looking forward to it.
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
It's great to have such a beautiful result! Your inspiration is poetic. Just look at its color! So many violet leaves must be wonderful!
I also ordered my custom perfume from Salaam for Valentine's Day, I will receive it in a few days, looking forward to it.
That's lovely, Dava! If you feel comfortable sharing I'd be curious hearing about yours too when it arrives :giggle: And thank you for the kind words! ;w;

I'm wearing Arche again today. Every bit as lovely as the first time and if anything, I find myself appreciating and discovering all these beautiful little subtle nuances even more, right from the moment of the fragrance diffusing from the first spray. There is something very comforting about it.

Blue chamomile has such an incredible effect here, a bit hazy and smoky fume-like. And you're right, I love the color of the perfume too!
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
Btw I believe the white magnolia is also known in some countries as "white jade orchid," or 白玉蘭花. Very fitting name for the flower in this atmospheric fragrance. And in Japan it's called silver magnolia, or 銀厚朴.

In the SOTD thread I summed it up as "white magnolia glistening with dew, herbal clary sage, green bite of violet leaves, and calm hazy blue chamomile" which is the best I can describe succinctly the opening notes of the fragrance.

Edit: Also, last night while enveloped by this perfume I fell asleep hours than I usually do and slept quite well (even sleeping through my partner returning home later at night from a work social event) which is also rare since I'm a light sleeper with tachycardia...haha. The calming ingredients at work!
 
Last edited:

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
I'm still nosing through this thread, but I have to say I am sorely tempted to cook something up from my favorite notes (frankincense, pine needles, vetiver, cypress, sandalwood, nutmeg). Fascinating concept overall, and it's wonderful reading the range of responses here.

Same. If mine turned out well, I’d want it available for sale; I’m less concerned about being the only person in the world with my scent than I would be fascinated to meet someone else wearing it.
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
Hm, it's an interesting question. I enjoy the idea of Arche being a private little secret, among other things because of where the inspiration was from, but I wouldn't mind people who read the thread getting a chance to smell it so that you have more than just my words.

Maybe if we get enough Basenoters who agree to it, we could have a Basenotes discovery set and sniff all of each other's custom perfumes! I know I'd pay to try that ;) Just a thought!

As an aside, I just got back from the Beverly/West Los Angeles Scent Bar and Johnny there said Oud Caravan No.3 has been doing very well: they just sold two bottles yesterday in fact. He offered spritzes of it on paper for me to take a sniff and wow---it was powerful enough to slice right through all the ambient fumes from the perfumes people have been spraying. A real punch in the face. I admit I reflexively gagged a little and tears came to my eyes, and yet somehow it wasn't a bad thing at all. Struck speechless for sure. Definitely took me out of my comfort zone.

I also took a sniff of No.2. I think I may be too timid of a soul to ever try the Oud Caravans on more than paper but that was an experience I won't be forgetting any time soon, haha.

Taking a break from Arche for a few days so that my nose doesn't acclimate too much to it---it's a treasure I wouldn't want to simply fade into the background. So the Scent Bar trip was a good reset challenge on my nose, although I'm feeling a bit lightheaded from smelling all the perfumes.

Looking forward to receiving my Venezia and Night Blossom bottles :giggle: And it's been fun seeing people ruminate on favorite notes for custom perfumes, I'd love to see more. This is a lovely thread and I'm so glad I found it!
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Maybe if we get enough Basenoters who agree to it, we could have a Basenotes discovery set and sniff all of each other's custom perfumes! I know I'd pay to try that ;) Just a thought!

I’d be happy to see AbdesSalaam get that many commissions!

As an aside, I just got back from the Beverly/West Los Angeles Scent Bar and Johnny there said Oud Caravan No.3 has been doing very well: they just sold two bottles yesterday in fact. He offered spritzes of it on paper for me to take a sniff and wow---it was powerful enough to slice right through all the ambient fumes from the perfumes people have been spraying. A real punch in the face.

OC3 is one I bought based on a mignon. In truth, I would have been happy with any of the OCs, but #3 won out because, well, I had to pick one. After all, I think everyone agrees that I could use a real punch in the face now and then.
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
I’d be happy to see AbdesSalaam get that many commissions!
Me too! :giggle: (And for the little it's worth in the short time I've been on Basenotes, @PStoller, you've been nothing if not thoughtful and observant!)

On that note, I had put Arche on my scarf yesterday on a walk with my partner that ended up taking us to a local Japanese restaurant we frequent. (I didn't put it on my skin because there was no chance I was going to get to smell it that way underneath all those winter layers)

The waitress there is a friend and when she came to take our order she immediately asked me what that amazing smell was. In all the years we've known each other this has only happened once before. Even more notable is that she doesn't wear any perfume herself (she has a sensitive nose) and has never been interested in fragrance, until now.

She kept remarking in Japanese what a wonderful smell that was, and said that whoever made this was a genius :)

I was of course overjoyed to hear this and agreed and said I'd be more than happy to share some of Arche with her if she would like and she said, "You're already doing me such a favor by letting me smell it around you!" Haha.

My partner also agreed that it smelled amazing, but found it difficult to express in words, saying that verbalization of smells wasn't a strong suit. After some badgering on my part, my partner said it smelled very "flowing" and like flowers laid in water.

For my part I can't believe I neglected in my first and second posts on Arche to mention what a wonderful effect the Bulgarian rose and sandalwood have in here. Before going to bed tonight I'd rubbed some sandalwood oil on my wrists and it hit me---fragrant with hints of smoky green, the watery woody musk I was describing must have been coming more from sandalwood, not patchouli...oops! And the rose breathes through the other flowers and the clary sage, elevating and uplifting them somehow.

Perhaps it only makes sense given it was custom-made but Arche might actually just be my favorite thing I've ever smelled. Coming back from Scent Bar, as fun as trying some of the new releases and uncovering hitherto-unknown old gems was, only reinforced that in my mind all the more.
 
Last edited:

Profumo

Basenotes Junkie
Jun 26, 2006
Me too! :giggle: (And for the little it's worth in the short time I've been on Basenotes, @PStoller, you've been nothing if not thoughtful and observant!)

On that note, I had put Arche on my scarf yesterday on a walk with my partner that ended up taking us to a local Japanese restaurant we frequent. (I didn't put it on my skin because there was no chance I was going to get to smell it that way underneath all those winter layers)

The waitress there is a friend and when she came to take our order she immediately asked me what that amazing smell was. In all the years we've known each other this has only happened once before. Even more notable is that she doesn't wear any perfume herself (she has a sensitive nose) and has never been interested in fragrance, until now.

She kept remarking in Japanese what a wonderful smell that was, and said that whoever made this was a genius :)

I was of course overjoyed to hear this and agreed and said I'd be more than happy to share some of Arche with her if she would like and she said, "You're already doing me such a favor by letting me smell it around you!" Haha.

My partner also agreed that it smelled amazing, but found it difficult to express in words, saying that verbalization of smells wasn't a strong suit. After some badgering on my part, my partner said it smelled very "flowing" and like flowers laid in water.

For my part I can't believe I neglected in my first and second posts on Arche to mention what a wonderful effect the Bulgarian rose and sandalwood have in here. Before going to bed tonight I'd rubbed some sandalwood oil on my wrists and it hit me---fragrant with hints of smoky green, the watery woody musk I was describing must have been coming more from sandalwood, not patchouli...oops! And the rose breathes through the other flowers and the clary sage, elevating and uplifting them somehow.

Perhaps it only makes sense given it was custom-made but Arche might actually just be my favorite thing I've ever smelled. Coming back from Scent Bar, as fun as trying some of the new releases and uncovering hitherto-unknown old gems was, only reinforced that in my mind all the more.
Really you made the perfume, I did not. You made it when you chose the ingredients and decided the most important ones.
I just put them together not with genius as you tend to believe, but with scrupulousness in applying a protocol which is the one I teach in my perfumery school.
My custom perfumes are not always stupendous or stunning but they are always good or very good. The merit goes to my conscientiousness in applying the method and to the quality of my ingredients. Not to genius.
As I always say, you can chose how is the wife or the husband but not how the children come.
You can chose the ingredients but you never know how they will be. you will have to discover them. One thing is for sure, your perfumes are like your children, they will never be as you want, they will always be as THEY want.
A perfumer who tries to bend his perfumes to his will is like a parent who tries to force his children to be as he wants. Guide your children towards their own harmony, that’s the way to do it, in parenthood and in perfumery.
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
That is a beautiful philosophy to parenthood and perfumery. Having had a parent who was very forceful, your analogy spoke to me deeply and has started to change the way I look at perfumery. It's perhaps a change that is not happening overnight but you have given me much to think about. Thank you for sharing with us.

As a writer I always thought self-discipline and conscientiousness were some of the most important qualities for the process of bringing the work to life---a process that is indeed more like being a careful interpreter than a director---but I haven't managed to apply that my own past attempts at perfumery. Your meticulousness is inspiring and makes me want to approach things in life more carefully, and to listen more :)
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
By the way, @Profumo, I noticed the newsletter about new raw materials (elder flower, tomato leaf, black spruce etc.). Out of curiosity, will they be available for selection for the custom perfume as well?

Either way, I can't wait to see what you make with them! I love the essences of tomato leaf, fir, black spruce and sometimes I diffuse rhododendron with my aromatherapy diffuser. While I haven't smelled the extract of elder flower before I do love elderflower liqueur (like St. Germain). :giggle:
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
Almost a week has passed and I'm revisiting "Arche." I approached it with a sense of trepidation. A tiny part of me began to think, what if the excitement of receiving it had been part of the magic? Would it still work its spell this time?

Well, judging by how much I'm hyperventilating from breathing too eagerly again, I think it's safe to say that was a fruitless worry!

Every bit its enchanting self, it's also wearing just a bit extra musky today. An undercurrent of pleasant musk, like clean sweat, seamlessly weaving skin with fragrance. I'm enraptured.
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
Lifted with some edits from another thread since I've been posting here all my thoughts on the fragrances I've tried, so I thought it'd be nice to keep them all in one place.

Amber Chocolate
Normally I keep a very respectful distance from gourmands, possibly my least favorite genre of fragrance next to chypres. Whereas I can enjoy some chypres that do not hew too closely to classical chypre, gourmands of all stripes have been widely and unfailingly repellent to me. I am the one person I know who mostly thinks of eating and food as a necessary but achingly dull chore; I simply do not like the smell or taste of most sweet or fried or starchy food, making it easy for me to plan my meals accordingly around nutrition and efficiency, so that might have something to do with my distaste for gourmands. Seeing "vanilla" listed on a note pyramid is usually enough to send me backing away, as are words such as "indulgent" or "delicious" because very often those refer to smells I cannot stand even being around (they tend to come across as overbearing and cloying to me, resulting in disgust rather than appetite), never mind get stuck with one for hours.

But Amber Chocolate came as a sample with my previous discovery set order from the house, and I suppose after scrubbing another fragrance from another house earlier today I was feeling ready for anything...so when if not now?

And to my surprise I find it's---well, nice. It is very much chocolate, more melted dark chocolate than a chocolate bar, but the vanilla is restrained enough to keep the fragrance from becoming too unctuous. And I smell tonka, which fortunately for me comes to dominate most the fragrance. I'm very relieved to find that Amber Chooclate, at least on me, becomes more about the amber than the chocolate.

It's a simple enough composition, definitely meant for people who would be attracted by the name. I am not one of them so I'm not sure that I would wear it again but it is done tastefully and possibly the first fragrance of its kind whose company I didn't mind, which I'll chalk down as an achievement.
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
20230310_112610.jpg

If I knew these were arriving today I would have held off my morning fragrance experiments!

(I was experimenting with the perfume therapy bottle of osmanthus absolute, along with my own essences of sandalwood, yuzu, jasmine sambac, rhododendron, muskrat tincture and was quite happy with the result after a few adjustments, notes here---now if only I recorded what I was doing more carefully...)

Many many thanks to Salaam for the samples as well as the generous vial of Arche :giggle: I'd requested an extra sample vial for sharing but wasn't sure if it was doable and was going to decant from my own bottle if not---but this is lovely, I love the presentation! The light transparent green color of the liquid in the vial is delightfully pretty to look at as well. Next time I go to the Japanese restaurant I will be sure to gift my waitress friend this and tell her who it was from.

The choices of samples were thoughtful as well; jasmine galore! I smiled to see another sample vial of Venezia. I am absolutely not complaining to have more of this lovely perfume. But seeing as I have myself a 15 ml already perhaps I will share that with a friend as well 🤔

I feel that I am inundating this thread with all my posts...but if no one minds I am planning on following up with my thoughts of Il Giglio di Firenze, Jasmine Sheherazade, and Tawaf when I try them.
 

cosmopolit

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 2, 2010
Super-Infinite is a bespoke perfume by Abdes-Salaam. The ingredients are: osmanthus, Australian sandalwood, benzoin, beeswax, mandarine, Egyptian jasmine and civet, with the first three forming the primary accord. My instruction to Abdes-Salaam was that it should smell like an osmanthus perfume.

First of all, let me say what a privilege it is to be able to commission Abdes-Salaam to make a custom perfume. I have been corresponding with him through Basenotes starting about 12 ago, and have purchased a couple of his Scents of the Soul: Tabac, Chillum, and my favourite, Don Corleone. I have also worked with some of his tinctures, including Mysore sandalwood, osmanthus and mandarine.

I work with scent in my research, and have long understood how challenging it is to create compelling perfume compositions. Even knowing one’s note preferences does not ensure a pleasing blend. So was difficult for me to feel really confident about specifying the ingredients of this perfume. Fortunately Abdes-Salaam is very comforting in the specification process. He encouraged me to go with my gut rather than over-thinking things, and I am sure he applied himself to work out the proportions in the best possible manner.

First of all, as with all natural perfumes that I have tried, projection and duration are modest. I would describe Super-Infinite as a skin scent, which is how I prefer it.

Super-Infinite could be described as an soliflore, with all the supporting ingredients extending the original characteristics of osmanthus, creating a larger-than-life representation that is very pleasing. Jasmine extends the floral qualities, mandarine the fruity/tangy qualities, and civet the leathery qualities of the osmanthus flower. Benzoin, beeswax and sandalwood add warmth, giving the scent a bit of a rich pastry-like quality.

I would describe the note pyramid of Super-Infinite as:

Top: Mandarine

Middle: Osmanthus, Egyptian Jasmine, Beeswax

Bottom: Benzoin, Australian sandalwood, Civet

Osmanthus with its apricot tones forms the core of the scent, as expected, and the dry down is definitely dominated by benzoin, which doubles up with the beeswax. Almost all of the ingredients take their turn in the olfactory presentation of the perfume. Mandarine is mostly perceptible as a top note, which makes sense. Jasmine peeks out intermittently depending upon timing and conditions, and I am really pleased with the quality of Abdes-Salaam’s jasmine materials. Sandalwood is perhaps the most shy but grounds the fragrance and plays well with others. Civet took a bit of courage to specify, but I couldn’t be happier. A bit of a Jicky vibe now and again, and I am really pleased with the additional facet of osmanthus that it reveals. It can be sensed at all stages of development, and anchors the scent to the body. Civet is not that challenging to wear in a skin scent. Highly recommended!

Anyone thinking of commissioning Abdes-Salaam should definitely do so!!
 
Last edited:

Dava

Basenotes Member
Jun 28, 2015
Super-Infinite is a bespoke perfume by Abdes-Salaam. The ingredients are: osmanthus, Australian sandalwood, benzoin, beeswax, mandarine, Egyptian jasmine and civet, with the first three forming the primary accord. My instruction to Abdes-Salaam was that it should smell like an osmanthus perfume.

First of all, let me say what a privilege it is to be able to commission Abdes-Salaam to make a custom perfume. I have been corresponding with him through Basenotes starting about 12 ago, and have purchased a couple of his Scents of the Soul: Tabac, Chillum, and my favourite, Don Corleone. I have also worked with some of his tinctures, including Mysore sandalwood, osmanthus and mandarine.

I work with scent in my research, and have long understood how challenging it is to create compelling perfume compositions. Even knowing one’s note preferences does not ensure a pleasing blend. So was difficult for me to feel really confident about specifying the ingredients of this perfume. Fortunately Abdes-Salaam is very comforting in the specification process. He encouraged me to go with my gut rather than over-thinking things, and I am sure he applied himself to work out the proportions in the best possible manner.

First of all, as with all natural perfumes that I have tried, projection and duration are modest. I would describe Super-Infinite as a skin scent, which is how I prefer it.

Super-Infinite could be described as an soliflore, with all the supporting ingredients extending the original characteristics of osmanthus, creating a larger-than-life representation that is very pleasing. Jasmine extends the floral qualities, mandarine the fruity/tangy qualities, and civet the leathery qualities of the osmanthus flower. Benzoin, beeswax and sandalwood add warmth, giving the scent a bit of a rich pastry-like quality.

I would describe the note pyramid of Super-Infinite as:

Top: Mandarine

Middle: Osmanthus, Egyptian Jasmine, Beeswax

Bottom: Benzoin, Australian sandalwood, Civet

Osmanthus with its apricot tones forms the core of the scent, as expected, and the dry down is definitely dominated by benzoin, which doubles up with the beeswax. Almost all of the ingredients take their turn in the olfactory presentation of the perfume. Mandarine is mostly perceptible as a top note, which makes sense. Jasmine peeks out intermittently depending upon timing and conditions, and I am really pleased with the quality of Abdes-Salaam’s jasmine materials. Sandalwood is perhaps the most shy but grounds the fragrance and plays well with others. Civet took a bit of courage to specify, but I couldn’t be happier. A bit of a Jicky vibe now and again, and I am really pleased with the additional facet of osmanthus that it reveals. It can be sensed at all stages of development, and anchors the scent to the body. Civet is not that challenging to wear in a skin scent. Highly recommended!

Anyone thinking of commissioning Abdes-Salaam should definitely do so!!
Your fragrance sounds amazing. Jasmine and osmanthus definitely go well together.
 

Clarissochka

Basenotes Junkie
Jul 1, 2015
Super-Infinite is a bespoke perfume by Abdes-Salaam. The ingredients are: osmanthus, Australian sandalwood, benzoin, beeswax, mandarine, Egyptian jasmine and civet, with the first three forming the primary accord. My instruction to Abdes-Salaam was that it should smell like an osmanthus perfume.

First of all, let me say what a privilege it is to be able to commission Abdes-Salaam to make a custom perfume. I have been corresponding with him through Basenotes starting about 12 ago, and have purchased a couple of his Scents of the Soul: Tabac, Chillum, and my favourite, Don Corleone. I have also worked with some of his tinctures, including Mysore sandalwood, osmanthus and mandarine.

I work with scent in my research, and have long understood how challenging it is to create compelling perfume compositions. Even knowing one’s note preferences does not ensure a pleasing blend. So was difficult for me to feel really confident about specifying the ingredients of this perfume. Fortunately Abdes-Salaam is very comforting in the specification process. He encouraged me to go with my gut rather than over-thinking things, and I am sure he applied himself to work out the proportions in the best possible manner.

First of all, as with all natural perfumes that I have tried, projection and duration are modest. I would describe Super-Infinite as a skin scent, which is how I prefer it.

Super-Infinite could be described as an soliflore, with all the supporting ingredients extending the original characteristics of osmanthus, creating a larger-than-life representation that is very pleasing. Jasmine extends the floral qualities, mandarine the fruity/tangy qualities, and civet the leathery qualities of the osmanthus flower. Benzoin, beeswax and sandalwood add warmth, giving the scent a bit of a rich pastry-like quality.

I would describe the note pyramid of Super-Infinite as:

Top: Mandarine

Middle: Osmanthus, Egyptian Jasmine, Beeswax

Bottom: Benzoin, Australian sandalwood, Civet

Osmanthus with its apricot tones forms the core of the scent, as expected, and the dry down is definitely dominated by benzoin, which doubles up with the beeswax. Almost all of the ingredients take their turn in the olfactory presentation of the perfume. Mandarine is mostly perceptible as a top note, which makes sense. Jasmine peeks out intermittently depending upon timing and conditions, and I am really pleased with the quality of Abdes-Salaam’s jasmine materials. Sandalwood is perhaps the most shy but grounds the fragrance and plays well with others. Civet took a bit of courage to specify, but I couldn’t be happier. A bit of a Jicky vibe now and again, and I am really pleased with the additional facet of osmanthus that it reveals. It can be sensed at all stages of development, and anchors the scent to the body. Civet is not that challenging to wear in a skin scent. Highly recommended!

Anyone thinking of commissioning Abdes-Salaam should definitely do so!!
Thank you for posting your thoughts. I am a big fan of Osmanthus and was thinking of getting a custom one with Osmanthus for myself, this is giving me new ideas, sans jasmine and mandarins
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
As promised I've come back with some thoughts for some more sampled perfumes! The weather here has continued to be uncharacteristically cold which delayed my testing...too many cold rainy days where I futilely sprayed or dabbed only to smell nothing at all besides the base notes. Sad days indeed.

I checked with my partner to make sure that it's not that I'm going nose-blind, but no, my skin really does get too cold to make even copious amounts of perfume smell like nothing more than wispy skeletons. I gave up five sprays in to avoid wasting more precious perfume. Normally I only do one or two at most.

Heavier scents do survive on me, but I have only two "heavy" scents I enjoy, one of which is a church incense, and having to rotate between them gets old. This has been getting me to think about trying attars, seeing as ruhs and sandalwood oil and other such non-alcohol based extracts seem to be the only way I can enjoy scenting myself in the cold.

I notice not every scent in the shop is offered in attar form, though. If I could get all my favorites from here in attar form I would do it in a heart beat! (My beloved Arche included...)

Enough preamble! Time for the perfumes I sampled.

Il Giglio di Firenze
Iris is one of the raw materials I have not smelled by itself, so I was very curious. On top of that, there have been two iris perfumes I really liked, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist and Parfum Satori Iris Homme, and after seeing a reviewer compare Il Giglio di Firenze to the former I had to try it out, so I got myself a 3ml.

The initial few minutes is a delicate milky marzipan, before the curtains are drawn back for the main actress to take the stage: Florentine iris. I really love the interplay of warm-coolness of the iris, warm violets above cool dry powdery-woodsiness. I don't feel that the adjectives do it justice; the smell of iris is definitely a unique smell unmatched by any synthetic "iris" perfume out there that might check those boxes (violet-like, powder, etc) but nonetheless doesn't smell quite anything like the way this does. To me it's also nothing like Iris Silver Mist, where the cooler aspect is highlighted and amped up with synthetic materials to create a very specific effect.

(Funnily what Il Giglio di Firenze does remind me of is a bottle of Florentine iris liqueur I stock for my home bar, which suggests to me it must use more of the real stuff than most modern perfumes do these days!)

Since Salaam likes to write about the effects perfume has on people I'll add the note: my partner kept coming in for hugs, more than usual, and yes I asked and this was why. I offered to share some but my partner preferred to smell it on me and got very flustered. Haha. Apparently it's very "healing."

On my first wear I applied it at 10:30 AM and lasted well into the evening. By around 6~7 PM it had become fainter, but was still detectible at 9 PM. Projection-wise, it's definitely a skin scent for most of the duration.

My pet bird was also all over it. I normally keep her away from fragrances and dabbed in another room, but she immediately swiveled her head and stretched her neck to look at me when I opened the bottle, and made clear she was very enamored with the scent with a happy dance, and wanted to nestle over where I had dabbed it. Possibly coincidentally or not, Il Giglio di Firenze actually reminds me a bit of her natural scent as well (the bird's).

dango.jpg

I'm definitely convinced enough to get a bottle. At the price point it won't be any time soon but I think it would be worth it. Some day! Perhaps I'll add a mignon of it to my next mignon set order?

Tawaf
I got a very strong blast of oppoponax at first and I wasn't sure how I felt about that---something about raw oppoponax seems to temporarily give me a strange woozy feeling, the closest of which I can compare to is an alcoholic hangover, without the headache. (Is this what people mean by "heady"?)

But a few minutes into it Tawaf settled down into a luscious jasmine, interwoven with resin. I'm not sure if this is the right word but it's the most "dignified" jasmine perfume I have tried. Like approaching a subtropical temple surrounded by jasmine. I love smelling it, it reminds me of another incense perfume I love, which is also a blend of florals and resins but with the resins more front and center.

Yet part of me almost thinks I might be too young and frivolous to pull off wearing Tawaf, haha. This in spite of the fact that I not normally think about whether I can pull off a perfume---I've always approached it more as wearing smells I like to smell---I don't generally think of myself as a frivolous person, but next to this perfume I certainly feel frivolous!

I do love smelling it in the air, though. I'll have to think more about whether I'll come back to Tawaf for a bigger sample or bottle, but I'll certainly give it as many wears as my current sample permits.

Jasmin Sheherezade
Strong opening of anise (licorice). Anise is a strange note for me; I don't mind things that are anisic or anise-like, but anise itself seems to be a different story. I diffused an essential oil blend with anise once and like opoponax it also made me feel very strange---unlike most diffuser blends that fade into the background, the anise was very distracting and constantly stuck out to me and I could not stop noticing it---until I began to feel sick and had to stop the diffuser and drain it out.

Out of curiosity, I tried it again on another day to see if I would have the same reaction, and I did. Smelling the bottle of anise essential oil also gives me that same dizzy-sick feeling. I don't think it's an allergy, so it's a bit of a mystery to me. Maybe someone here might be able to enlighten me?

Fortunately here the anise takes a backseat to the jasmine. This is definitely the sweetest and most untamed jasmine out of all the ones I tried. The fruitier smell of the jasmine grandiflorum mixed with jasmine sambac is quite nice.

It is a very "perfume"y smelling perfume for sure, which I imagine is a plus for many people here but not me in this case. The perfume is very well done and has a strong personality, but to me it is someone else's personality. (Gipsy Queen was another perfume from here that gave me the same impression. Before I finalized this post I read up on the story behind it and now I wonder if it was for the same person, Sheherezade.)

This is where I find it a bit harder to put my feelings about Jasmin Sheherezade into words. Like Gipsy Queen it is very womanly in a way that makes me squeamish, uncomfortable and, dare I say, unsettled. Now if I could vocalize my instinctive gut reaction without worrying about who or what might be behind this fragrance or not: if I smelled this on someone else, I would definitely give them a wide berth and run (sorry!).

Maybe it's the hyraceum; aside from musk deer and goat hair, hyraceum is the only major animalic perfumery ingredient I haven't had a chance to smell by itself so I can't say for sure. There is just something about this and Gipsy Queen that makes me uncomfortable and squeamish and wanting to escape. Like being cornered by a threatening, imperious, sweaty older woman, and not in a sexy way. (That is certainly how I would feel about Carmen the opera charater, from what fuzzy memories I have of seeing the opera many years ago, so perhaps it's only apt for Gipsy Queen!)
.
I do love the jasmine part of this, but I don't think I can wear this. It's a very womanly assertive smell and that seems to evoke a fearful and repelled response in me; from the reviews it seems to do the opposite for other people. If nothing else, though, it has been a very interesting and educational experience and certainly speaks to the power of smells to evoke unexpected subjective feelings.
 

Dava

Basenotes Member
Jun 28, 2015
I ordered a custom perfume from Salaam, this is the first time I design the perfume I want, I named it Amrita Dorée.
I let it rest for two weeks after I received it, then sprayed myself 12 times and basked in this naturally beautifully fragrant clouds.

The seven main ingredients I chose were: Frangipani, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Ambrette, Rum, Vanilla, wanting to create a tropical yellow floral feast featuring Frangipani, fertile, euphoric and narcotic, with Rose and ylang-ylang as the foils.
The perfumer blends them skillfully and harmoniously, and the result is so beautiful, with rounded, rich creaminess, waxiness and golden sweetness. Rose and yellow florals work well together, luscious, lush florals spread over a warm bed of musky vanilla, when the rosy color fades, leaving the real frangipani scent I've been looking for, pure sensuality.

Sounds very feminine, but I think it can be worn by anyone who loves tropical floral scents, regardless of gender.
I am pleasantly surprised at how close the custom fragrance made it to my heart, and it also has Abdes Salaam Attar's DNA, graceful and spiritual. The perfumer is truly a master whose creations have always spoken directly to my heart and never disappoint me.
 

Attachments

  • 336607326_758415955601540_2450970499650019528_n (1).jpg
    336607326_758415955601540_2450970499650019528_n (1).jpg
    639.7 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:

Profumo

Basenotes Junkie
Jun 26, 2006
Same. If mine turned out well, I’d want it available for sale; I’m less concerned about being the only person in the world with my scent than I would be fascinated to meet someone else wearing it.
Same. If mine turned out well, I’d want it available for sale; I’m less concerned about being the only person in the world with my scent than I would be fascinated to meet someone else wearing it.
PStoller is thinking as a perfumer.
To be a perfumer is to make perfumes for others.
For all Basenoters I can extend the 20% discount on my custom perfumes.
However one should read attentively my custom perfume page before choosing the notes. I am not making concept perfumes, a "Scent of the Soul" has its own way, and this is exactly what I am proposing to compose together with you.
 
Last edited:

LinePlaneVolume

Basenotes Junkie
May 31, 2020
PStoller is thinking as a perfumer.
To be a perfumer is to make perfumes for others.
For all Basenoters I can extend the 20% discount on my custom perfumes.
However one should read attentively my custom perfume page before choosing the notes. I am not making concept perfumes, a "Scent of the Soul" has its own way, and this is exactly what I am proposing to compose together with you.
I am interested in having you compose one for my partner. I really have to think about what notes would be in it!
 

Reiu

Basenotes Member
Feb 16, 2023
This may be a writer's habit---I thought of mine as picking notes out of meanings and associations with regards to a character, rather than myself, but in that way I still thought of it as a scent of the soul rather than a concept perfume; the character's soul even if separate from mine. Maybe it is since the way I approach writing a little bit like acting. In fact I started daydreaming about doing the same for another closely related character someday, haha.

I have no idea where I would even start if I were to pick for "just me"; and in fact the idea hadn't even crossed my mind. Admittedly the idea of dedicating a perfume just to boring old me doesn't hold a lot of appeal. Meanwhile I am happy with Arche and I continue to wear it at such a rate my partner joked I'd need to get another bottle before the year ends. Would it be possible to have a price quote for that? (and would it be possible to get it as an attar as well as perfume?)
 
Last edited:

Latest News

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...

Top
pp