AbdesSalaam Attar / La Via del Profumo - official fragrance discussion thread

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
It’s downright pathetic, to say the least. All that for a few bucks, eh? Have we seen the bottom yet? :lipsrsealed:
 

Lellabelle

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 16, 2015
FYI: I informed Kafkaesque of the existence and composition of the book.

K does not take the same position as AbdesSalaam.

Thank you, PStoller. I’ve been away from Basenotes for a while, but this showed up today in a thread subscription. Crazy. Thank you for alerting the good Kafkaesque: it sounds like K is on the case!
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
Under the circumstances, did you consider asking for a refund from Amazon?
No. I could, I suppose, but between that and AbdesSalaam’s kind offer, I’d be profiting off the whole event, which feels inappropriate. Although if that means Amazon doesn’t pay Leonard Payne for the sale, I could live with that.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
In the spirit of the original thread, has anyone sampled any attar from this house?
Yes, let's get back to that! I haven't sampled any of the pure attars, but I have a large selection of EDP mignons, and I've liked or loved almost every one. I've been away from them for a time while on my extended vintage kick, but I look forward to a happy reunion. I'll probably apply AbdesSalaam's generous $60 courtesy toward 50ml of the magnificent Mecca Balsam.
 

LinePlaneVolume

Basenotes Junkie
May 31, 2020
No. I could, I suppose, but between that and AbdesSalaam’s kind offer, I’d be profiting off the whole event, which feels inappropriate. Although if that means Amazon doesn’t pay Leonard Payne for the sale, I could live with that.

You could always take that refund and apply it to another purchase from AbdesSalaam... better to send it right to him than let it stay where it is right now. Or, you could donate it to Kafka's coffee/snack fund. :)
 

Hcat

New member
Feb 3, 2021
Wowsers, that is pretty crazy if you ask me. I am serious, I know everyone is upset and talking about shameless acts of appropriation, but this doesn't seem to be that - why would he write that intro and lay it all out?? I feel like Mr Payne may well be either RIDICULOUSLY naive, or as we say here in Australia, have a few roos loose in the top paddock!
His intro reads like he is paying his respects to both Kafka and Salaam, as he seems to greatly admire them both!

Anyway, of course a cease and desist is in order, but the impression I get is that this person is not all there, so I'd just go a bit gently with any public shaming, etc...
 

Gurahl

Super Member
Apr 17, 2019
I would look at Richard Prince.

Prince has been copying other people's work most of his life it seems.

Wikipedia says...

His image, Untitled (Cowboy), a rephotographing of a photograph by Sam Abell and appropriated from a cigarette advertisement, was the first rephotograph to be sold for more than $1 million at auction at Christie's New York in 2005. He is regarded as "one of the most revered artists of his generation" according to the New York Times.

From the Independent UK - Stolen Instagram photo sells for $90,000

Artist Richard Prince's latest exhibition has made hundreds of thousands of dollars but the photographers whose images he took will receive nothing

https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/art/news/stolen-instagram-photo-sells-90-000-10274267.html

Prince was sued by another artist Patrick Cariou who said he had stolen his photographs. But the artist won an appeal against the litigation in 2013 and the case became just another footnote in the saga of copyright law versus freedom of expression. It's difficult and expensive for the average person to fight a case like this.
 

Lellabelle

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 16, 2015
You’ve been missed! Hope all is well.

Likewise! I’ve missed Basenotes company too.

All good here, thank you. Work has been insanely busy, but I’m grateful for it. Hope you and the lovely Dr. T are in excellent health, my friend!

Sending well wishes to all here. I have been enjoying Tasneem this week. A truly lovely ylang and jasmine.
P.S. Mecca Balsam is an excellent choice!
 

slniecko

Super Member
May 19, 2013
Well, I found another two books, same author, same publisher:
Perfume Recipes
Perfumery: Easy Recipes

There may be even more victims here. Maybe literally here.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
There may be even more victims here. Maybe literally here.
Kafkaesque is still weighing various options, including class action. I don’t think Payne has any understanding of copyright, and changing that might go a long way toward resolving this situation. Reverends tend to work out of a book that’s in the public domain. :)
 

Proust_Madeleine

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 5, 2019
Yeah, I’ve been through this kind of thing quite a bit and am actually in the middle of a giant IP/Copyright case that is going to take years and hundreds of thousands of dollars... but you can usually tell which category offenders fall into:

Pirates with no ethics
Major Corporations who don’t think you have the $ to win
Fine artists making a point(ie richard prince)
People who are literally clueless as to copyrights, IP and the law

Without excusing the behavior or saying K should go “easy”, I would say this guy seems to be the last type.
 

Profumo

Basenotes Junkie
Jun 26, 2006
You do not build a perfume thinking about what smell goes well together with another one.
Everything goes well with everything in natural perfumery. It is only a question of proportions.

A perfume is a message. You do not write a message with words that go well together. You write it with words that carry the meaning you want to convey. Choose the ingredients of your perfume the same way, for the meaning they carry.
Then you will have a perfume that is a message in a bottle
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
You do not build a perfume thinking about what smell goes well together with another one.
Everything goes well with everything in natural perfumery. It is only a question of proportions.

A perfume is a message. You do not write a message with words that go well together. You write it with words that carry the meaning you want to convey. Choose the ingredients of your perfume the same way, for the meaning they carry.
Then you will have a perfume that is a message in a bottle

Great perspective and a timely reminder. Something to consider the next round I order a custom for my 50th birthday or 10th wedding anniversary.

Ramadan Kareem, dear Profumo.
 

Profumo

Basenotes Junkie
Jun 26, 2006
Making perfumes is easy. Specially with natural ingredients. You do not need a special nose to make perfumes. You need a special love for scents.
As always "All you need is Love".
 
Last edited:

hoschhti

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 9, 2011
FYI: I had a look at the website and The Heart of Naples is available now as part of the "Italian Series" (see my review: post #605). Also the gorgeous Jasmine Shehrazade is no longer a "secret" fragrance but is officially available as part of the "Private Collection".
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
FYI: I had a look at the website and The Heart of Naples is available now as part of the "Italian Series" (see my review: post #605). Also the gorgeous Jasmine Shehrazade is no longer a "secret" fragrance but is officially available as part of the "Private Collection".

I’m thrilled about this as Jasmine Shehrazade was a beautiful jasmine scent I enjoyed very much during a sampling spree some years ago.
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
New fragrance coming soon:
View attachment 157238

In profumo’s own words:-
Oud Beyond. The ultimate Oud.


What makes this oud peerless is the gorgeous quality of the ingredients.
The idea of an Oud with Musk has been around for some time but has never been interpreted in a fully natural way.

At the core of Oud beyond there is a very elegant, rich and woody Oud from Thailand blended with a more animalic Laos essence.
The Musk note is brought by Hybiscus seeds known as Musk Ambrette and true Civet musk from ethical farming.


Powerful but delicate Oud Beyond can be worn by men and women alike as by tradition in the Arab world.

I’d LOVE to sample this, of course. And if things go as planned, we might be in for another round of sample passes and discussions. I just feel bad that some of the original older fans are no longer active on Basenotes and will miss out.
 

HORNS

Basenotes Dependent
May 18, 2008
I'm very excited about the new creations. One of my most special fragrances is a bespoke one by Dominique, made with Atlas cedar, jasmine, narcissus, and ambergris, among a few other things.
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
I'm very excited about the new creations. One of my most special fragrances is a bespoke one by Dominique, made with Atlas cedar, jasmine, narcissus, and ambergris, among a few other things.

Wow. That sounds amazing! Perhaps it could be included as part of the next sampling project… :smiley:
 

naqshbandi

Basenotes Member
Dec 1, 2007
Great thread. I recently bought his Attar Maulana and love it. I might reorder it again but instead pure Attar form. My question : has anyone on here tried or bought his Kings Perfumes range?
 

Lellabelle

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 16, 2015
Has anyone already sampled this?
Hi Mick,

Oud Beyond is included in the group sampling we’re doing in this thread:
So, you should be getting some reviews soon!

Spoiler… I’ve only given it it quick sniff so far, but it’s beautiful! Looking forward to testing this properly. It’s very nuanced.
 

Mick B

Super Member
Oct 12, 2021
Hi Mick,

Oud Beyond is included in the group sampling we’re doing in this thread:
So, you should be getting some reviews soon!

Spoiler… I’ve only given it it quick sniff so far, but it’s beautiful! Looking forward to testing this properly. It’s very nuanced.
Very nice! I hope that sample pack will go up for sale too, would love to put my nose on them too and follow along with you :)
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
OUD BEYOND - First BN review is here, by none other than Varanis Ridari

OUD BEYOND

Listed Notes: ouds blend, musk ambergris, civet musk

This one seemed simple and straightforward animalic, so I wanted to knock it out early since I knew I wasn't in store for much development being a mostly oud/musk oil. As expected, this one is a bit urinous, a bit barnyardish, and breathy. Although, the salty marine aspects of the ambergris actually does a lot to clean up the accord here. This isn't overly fecal or fatty like civet can sometimes be, nor is it total "between the legs" like the stinkiest ouds I've encountered.

Instead, the oud punch comes first, and the civet sort of follows behind with tail tucked between legs. The ambergris seems to be the base here, with the other two riding on top. All together, this could be a base for another perfume, if you added some rose and spice, or citruses alongside some other rounding elements, like vanilla. By itself, Oud Beyond quickly becomes about the ambergris and oud to me, with the civet being more of a joiner, with it's urinous/fecal facets briding the woodiness and rot of the oud with the desiccating salt of the ambergris.

Since all three are musks, you start tuning out the muskinesss all three provide, since they become background static to the other elements of each ingredient. For a perfume that's basically animal plus animal plus rotted wood (animal), I'm surprised by how easy this is to smell. Or maybe it's because they're not contrasted with anything sweeter and cleaner to smell more challenging likes these notes are when found as parts of larger compositions? Either way, after that initial gut punch, I acclimate quickly.

Of course there could be a lot of other unlisted stuff here I'm missing, that's playing push/pull on the three musks that make up Oud Beyond. I can't comment on what I don't know is there, and if I smell blindly, I just see the oud and the ambergris mainly, with the civet playing peek-a-boo if you go looking for it. I let my BF smell this and somehow he said "grape otter pops", but he also thinks cilantro smells soapy, so I wouldn't read much into that. Our roommate though, he wrinkled his nose. He isn't ready for this level of musk and should stick to his 1 Million. 🤣

This one, I like.

What an excellent review! I can’t wait to get my nose on Oud Beyond and see if it is indeed the ‘ultimate oud blend’.

Just to revive this thread, here’s a blast from the past, taken from the Oud Beyond page :

FB29DD4C-5740-48CB-99F7-C2EB25BAEF97.jpeg
Salaam during his wandering dervish days in the ‘1980s. Hey, is that the late Saddam Hussein? 😉
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
OUD BEYOND - First BN review is here, by none other than Varanis Ridari



What an excellent review! I can’t wait to get my nose on Oud Beyond and see if it is indeed the ‘ultimate oud blend’.

Just to revive this thread, here’s a blast from the past, taken from the Oud Beyond page :

View attachment 173761
Salaam during his wandering dervish days in the ‘1980s. Hey, is that the late Saddam Hussein? 😉
Glad you liked it, spelling errors and all! Gotta make it feel a little loosey goosey with the errors to keep ya on your toes lol.
(That's what I'm telling myself anyway)
 

Mick B

Super Member
Oct 12, 2021
Perfumania - America's Leading Perfumery Chain!

Latest News

. .
Top