A Fraterworks-only 8-liner

[neoscents]

Hey all. I recently purchased some items from Fraterworks. I was impressed by the ingredients and decided to make an 8-liner using some of my favorites. The result is a rich spicy black chamomile tea with ginger and cinnamon, sweetened with tonka bean. The tea covers up a lot of the florals at the start, but as it develops, the rose and orris play more of a role. Overall, one of my favorite simple accords so far!

333 German Chamomile
167 Hay Absolute
133 Orris Resnoid
133 Red Ginger
133 Cinnamon Bark
67 Rose Absolute
33 Tonka Absolute (I cheated and used coumarin, sorry : p)
1 Sotolone

Not a sponsored post, lol. I just really liked the ingredients and wanted to share! Substitute as you like if you decide to make it, but share thoughts if you do!

 

[steventeddy]

Which rose absolute did you use?

 

[mnitabach]

Not a criticism at all, but just a note that this formula is 8% cinnamaldehyde.

 

[neoscents]

Which rose absolute did you use?

It was the Rose Absolute “Signature” Bulgaria.

Not a criticism at all, but just a note that this formula is 8% cinnamaldehyde.

True! I know it's quite limited by IFRA, if I was making it for sale I would probably mix it with other cinnamon materials to avoid this, however all my projects are for personal wear.. just hope the IFRA cops don't show up

 

[Tharrys78]

As much as I respect Jamie Frater and the excellence of his products, those are naturals that you can find in a lot of places other than his site. When I opened the thread I was expecting something made with the bases he sells (and I am really curious about)

 

[RomanB]

It was the Rose Absolute “Signature” Bulgaria.


True! I know it's quite limited by IFRA, if I was making it for sale I would probably mix it with other cinnamon materials to avoid this, however all my projects are for personal wear.. just hope the IFRA cops don't show up

Cinnamaldehyde is a real irritant, especially if you will somehow accidentally apply it to mucous tissues (eyes, lips...). It is limited for a good reason.

 

[mnitabach]

As much as I respect Jamie Frater and the excellence of his products, those are naturals that you can find in a lot of places other than his site. When I opened the thread I was expecting something made with the bases he sells (and I am really curious about)

Jamie has posted numerous formulas on his site (linked on each base page) illustrating how each base can be used & combined with his other bases. And yes, I agree in general that all-natural formulas like this are relatively low value-add for posting on this forum.

 

[neoscents]

Jamie has posted numerous formulas on his site (linked on each base page) illustrating how each base can be used & combined with his other bases. And yes, I agree in general that all-natural formulas like this are relatively low value-add for posting on this forum.

Feel free to add IES/Hedione/Galaxolide up to 50% of the formula if you want it to be a "modern" perfume! I have a second iteration with lots of synthetics, but it's ~30 lines and as Big L has said, no one makes formulae longer than 8 lines on basenotes. Perhaps you're just not the target audience of this thread if you don't like it, and that's okay! I personally prefer real formulae being posted instead of threads just theorizing and discussing abstract ideas.

Cinnamaldehyde is a real irritant, especially if you will somehow accidentally apply it to mucous tissues (eyes, lips...). It is limited for a good reason.

I only apply perfume to clothes in areas I don't touch often, but thank you for the warning! In an alternate version, I have it mixed with cyprinol, eugenol, and a hint of fir balsam abs to get around the IFRA barrier. I also usually dilute to 10%.

 

[neoscents]

As much as I respect Jamie Frater and the excellence of his products, those are naturals that you can find in a lot of places other than his site. When I opened the thread I was expecting something made with the bases he sells (and I am really curious about)

I somewhat disagree -- the naturals he stocks are often a lot better than what I find in other places, and when I substituted other naturals in this formula, it definitely didn't have the same overall quality. w.r.t. bases, Frater himself shows many example formulae on how to use them. Personally, I like his ambergris base, honey supreme, rosewood cayenne, and fleur de tabac.

 

[xii]

And yes, I agree in general that all-natural formulas like this are relatively low value-add for posting on this forum.

This formula has at least one point of brilliance. Something to really learn from.

 

[jfrater]

As much as I respect Jamie Frater and the excellence of his products, those are naturals that you can find in a lot of places other than his site. When I opened the thread I was expecting something made with the bases he sells (and I am really curious about)

Thank you for the compliment I should note though that some of my naturals are not available elsewhere. I am the only person selling this particular German Chamomile for example - it is a single estate English grown oil and it has a vibrance and radiance unique to this farmer. I will be uploading a demo formula fairly soon that is an authentic Givaudan formula created on commission for Houbigant in 1929 (assigned to Schving - the last perfume he — AKA Givaudan — created for the brand before he died) and it specifically required the English farmed Chamomile. I'll post the demo formula in its entire original form on the Chamomile page.