A Base or an Accord?

[julian35]

What the difference between a Base and an Accord? I am enjoying reading Tony Curtis's book Introduction to Perfumery and he calls them a Base, and the composition is nearly identical to what I know as an Accord.
Is there a clear delineation as to the definition of these terms or are Base and Accord different words with the same meaning... depending on where you are in the world?

Here is another example of how these terms are used at Perfumer's apprentice.

Accord: a perfume accord is a balanced blend of notes which lose their individual identity to create a completely new, unified odor impression.

Fragrance base: (from Wikipedia)
Instead of building a perfume from "ground up", many modern perfumes and colognes are made using fragrance bases or simply bases. Each base is essentially modular perfume that is blended from essential oils and aromatic chemicals, and formulated with a simple concept such as "fresh cut grass" or "juicy sour apple". Many of Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria line, with their simple fragrance concepts, are good examples of what perfume fragrance bases are like.

The effort used in developing bases by fragrance companies or individual perfumers may equal that of a marketed perfume, since they are useful in that they are reusable. On top of its reusability, the benefit in using bases for construction are quite numerous:

Ingredients with "difficult" or "overpowering" scents that are tailored into a blended base may be more easily incorporated into a work of perfume
A base may be better scent approximations of a certain thing than the extract of the thing itself. For example, a base made to embody the scent for "fresh dewy rose" might be a better approximation for the scent concept of a rose after rain than plain rose oil. Flowers whose scents cannot be extracted, such as gardenia or hyacinth, are composed as bases from data derived from headspace technology.
A perfumer can quickly rough out a concept from a brief by combining multiple bases, then present it feedback. Smoothing out the "edges" of the perfume can be done after a positive response.

 

[xii]

The art of perfume making urgently needs some organising. Which might be difficult considering there are as many standards as schools. Technically it is still in witchcraft state in spite of all the technology being used. I suppose it is partly a result of all the secrecy. There is a widely spread conviction, especially among amateur perfumers, that the only way to perfume making leads through all the mistakes made by others. Well, as I wrote, witchcraft.

Anyways, being exposed to all this informational mess I tend to think of a base as a finished and bottled commercial product with a name and trademark, whereas an accord has a bit more abstract meaning. An accord is, in my opinion, something one could imagine and even never blend. But as I say, in the realm of perfumery all one-nose-holed are kings.

 

[David Ruskin]

I have been taught that an Accord is a simple mixture of ingredients that produces an unexpected smell. A good example is a mixture of Geranium, Lavender and Bergamot, which create an unexpected note, that of a Fougere. Very often the strength of a carefully blended Accord will be stronger than expected. The simple mix of Hedione, Iso E Super, Galaxolide, Ionone and Ambroxan create something unexpected; the Grojsman Accord.

A Base is either a duplication of an Essential oil, or a simple mixture that can be used as an Essential oil. The example of "fresh dewy Rose" is perfect. Such a thing does not exist in nature, there is no Fresh Dewy Rose Essential oil, but a Base can be made which replicates this smell and that can be used as an Essential oil.

 

[I.D.Adam]

The art of perfume making urgently needs some organising. Which might be difficult considering there are as many standards as schools. Technically it is still in witchcraft state in spite of all the technology being used. I suppose it is partly a result of all the secrecy. There is a widely spread conviction, especially among amateur perfumers, that the only way to perfume making leads through all the mistakes made by others. Well, as I wrote, witchcraft.

Since you are not satisfied with learning perfumery by discipline, trial and error, what exactly do you propose? And what do you consider "mistakes?" Learning by trial and error? What do you feel needs organizing? As far as secrecy, do you expect others to share their work for free?

Technology has made many wonderful things possible for us as a species. It is also hastening our demise. "It is no bad thing to celebrate a simple life." - Bilbo Baggins.

 

[pkiler]

I have been taught that an Accord is a simple mixture of ingredients that produces an unexpected smell. A good example is a mixture of Geranium, Lavender and Bergamot, which create an unexpected note, that of a Fougere. Very often the strength of a carefully blended Accord will be stronger than expected. The simple mix of Hedione, Iso E Super, Galaxolide, Ionone and Ambroxan create something unexpected; the Grojsman Accord.

A Base is either a duplication of an Essential oil, or a simple mixture that can be used as an Essential oil. The example of "fresh dewy Rose" is perfect. Such a thing does not exist in nature, there is no Fresh Dewy Rose Essential oil, but a Base can be made which replicates this smell and that can be used as an Essential oil.

I Like David's thought here... I will only add that I think a Base is considered to be more complex than an accord, as much as a perfume in itself, and meant to fulfill a need that might be like an EO, or some other complex Non-EO note, like "Leather", or "Outer Space", or "Hot Metal", etc.

 

[David Ruskin]

A Base is something that you make that can be used like an Essential oil or an Absolute. Either a synthetic Essential oil or a fantasy.

 

[julian35]

I have been taught that an Accord is a simple mixture of ingredients that produces an unexpected smell. A good example is a mixture of Geranium, Lavender and Bergamot, which create an unexpected note, that of a Fougere. Very often the strength of a carefully blended Accord will be stronger than expected. The simple mix of Hedione, Iso E Super, Galaxolide, Ionone and Ambroxan create something unexpected; the Grojsman Accord.

A Base is either a duplication of an Essential oil, or a simple mixture that can be used as an Essential oil. The example of "fresh dewy Rose" is perfect. Such a thing does not exist in nature, there is no Fresh Dewy Rose Essential oil, but a Base can be made which replicates this smell and that can be used as an Essential oil.

Excellent. Thank you for that clarification David, very helpful. One can have an Orange Blossom Accord and Base, the first being a simpler version.
In Grasse we worked on floral mixtures, that seemed to me very similar to the "Bases" listed inTony Curtis's book Introduction to Perfumery, but they were referred to as "Accords" in class, so you can see my confusion.

The relationship to the essential oil is a VERY useful way to think of a Base, however when you indicate that a Base can be USED as an essential oil, what do you mean? I want to make sure I understand your intent.

Building a fragrance with different accords makes sense to me. Build the accords first then combine to make the fragrance. I don't think I appreciated the Base being used where you might use an essential oil. So a Base could most certainly be a part of an accord?

 

[David Ruskin]

Excellent. Thank you for that clarification David, very helpful. One can have an Orange Blossom Accord and Base, the first being a simpler version.
In Grasse we worked on floral mixtures, that seemed to me very similar to the "Bases" listed inTony Curtis's book Introduction to Perfumery, but they were referred to as "Accords" in class, so you can see my confusion.

The relationship to the essential oil is a VERY useful way to think of a Base, however when you indicate that a Base can be USED as an essential oil, what do you mean? I want to make sure I understand your intent.

Building a fragrance with different accords makes sense to me. Build the accords first then combine to make the fragrance. I don't think I appreciated the Base being used where you might use an essential oil. So a Base could most certainly be a part of an accord?

I mean that Bases can be used in the same way that you would use an Essential oil when creating a fragrance. Patchouli oil is used for its smell, how it works with other ingredients and for its longevity. Amber 83 (or any other Amber base) can be used in the same way. Lemon oil and "Wet Grass" base (or Sunshine base, or whatever; I'm making them up) can be used in a similar way if they evaporate in a similar way. Essential oils are mixtures of chemicals, so is a base.

 

[julian35]

I mean that Bases can be used in the same way that you would use an Essential oil when creating a fragrance. Patchouli oil is used for its smell, how it works with other ingredients and for its longevity. Amber 83 (or any other Amber base) can be used in the same way. Lemon oil and "Wet Grass" base (or Sunshine base, or whatever; I'm making them up) can be used in a similar way if they evaporate in a similar way. Essential oils are mixtures of chemicals, so is a base.

Ok. Thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Geco]

Many italian professional chef (and of other countriess,i suppose..) have a secret: is called "fondo". Is an amalgam, a set of ingredients , a broth.
Full of flavor and "specialized": there's a broth for first dishes, a broth for meats,ecc.ecc.
And after preparing the dishes with the usual classic recipes, chef put a little teaspoon of this "fondo" during cooking.
And the dish becomes wonderful, not a simply "good food"....
Exist commercial "fondo",also. Good or very good.
But a great chef have his personal recipes, a personal broth
Which jealously guards
As the bases in perfumery ...

hi

 

[parker25mv]

I think, in a way, bases and accords tend to kind of be on two ends of the same spectrum.
There is no easy way to define either of them exactly.
Accords are more like combinations of different types of distinct notes, designed to create something new, much greater than the sum of its parts.
Bases are more like a combination designed to harmonise together, as if towards a common goal. Bases can either be designed around one note, with all the components designed to assist that singular basic concept, or they can be much wider and full of a complex list of things.
This still is a terrible definition.
Maybe it could be said that an accord is more like a set of things, usually between around 3 to 5, that are each more individualistic, very distinct, singular, and disparate from each other, and they come together to create a new combined thing, which has a concept very different from any of the individual parts. Some examples are an apple accord, a rose accord (mostly using a combination of distinct ACs), an amber accord (labdanum, benzoin, vanilla), Guerlinade accord (bergamot, rose, jasmine, tonka bean, iris, vanilla).

Another difference that stands out is that accords tend to be created on-hand, whereas bases are usually pre-made. This is not really an absolute rule though.

It is possible, I think, to create bases from accords, and accords from bases, but whether that sub-formula is seen as a base or accord is determined by its construction, maybe how the character of the components relates to the result.
In some situations the distinction between accord and base may not be so clear.

Maybe it could be said that in a base the components are playing more of a supporting role, or tend to be less individualistic; whereas in an accord there is more emphasis on how the separate components combine together.

In an accord, it matters more how the components are combined, almost more like a science, a result that is more universal, needing more observation, or to follow formulas precisely, less open to creative choice.

I think a lot more could be said on the types of differences between bases and accords, although none of these differences defines them exactly.

 

[julian35]

Wow... back to 2016..LOL... pre-pandemic. i was way younger then...
The way I define this for myself is the way that David has defined it. This works for me and it makes sense to me... I had a Brain Burp back then.

"A Base is something that you make that can be used like an Essential oil or an Absolute".
This definition helped me to understand essential oils and absolutes more fully and treat them as bases. (material made up of sometimes hundreds of different molecules with a defined singular signature.)

A BASE for me has a singular intent made up by one or more elements; formulated with a simple concept such as "fresh cut grass" or "juicy sour apple"s or as per David's example, a "fresh dewy Rose". Essential oils are mixtures of chemicals, so is a base.

An ACCORD is " is a simple mixture of ingredients that produces an unexpected smell."
Geranium, Lavender and Bergamot=Fougère.
Hedione, Iso E Super, Galaxolide, Ionone and Ambroxan =Grojsman Accord.
Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Patchouli, Eugenol, Hydroxycitronellal=Mellis Accord


as you said"Accords are more like combinations of different types of distinct notes, designed to create something new, much greater than the sum of its parts."

At any rate the definition/concept works for me and helps me to compose.

 

[parker25mv]

A BASE for me has a singular intent made up by one or more elements; formulated with a simple concept such as "fresh cut grass" or "juicy sour apple"s or as per David's example, a "fresh dewy Rose".

A base can often be that way, but is not always the case. Some bases in perfumery can be rather complex and are almost perfumes in themselves, albeit incomplete perfumes.

The frustrating part is that most any definition we try to pin to this will not hold exactly.

 

[parker25mv]

Let's talk about pkiler's "Perfect Pineapple" base, for instance. What makes it a base and not an accord?
I think what makes it constitute more of a "base" is there are so many ACs playing a supporting role, it's not merely all 100% a strict singular "plain" pineapple note. There is a little bit more complexity going on, a choice of smaller separate supporting notes that is very open to artistic choice and the perfumer's personal creativity. Even though (if we had the exact formula), we probably could identify a set of ACs within it that constitute an accord (coming together creating the pineapple note). The perfumer has also defined the specifications of the base, using his own individual aesthetics, and that is not open to change or small modifications.

In an accord, it is more like science is the thing that dictates the combination. You can still modify it a little bit, but only so much before it changes the fundamental nature and then really wouldn't smell like the concept of pineapple, or close to that type of pineapple, for example.

 

[julian35]

It is a BASE it has a singular intent. Pinapple. It may be a complex or a simple pineapple... but it is pineapple.
and if it LOOKS like a pineapple... and SMELLS like a pineapple.... well you get my point... LOL

I guess I have resolved this question for myself and it serves me well. I appreciate there is confusion, but that is not my issue any longer. WHew!

 

[parker25mv]

It is a BASE it has a singular intent.

Then it comes down to semantics. You then have to define exactly what "singular intent" is.
If I make a rose accord, could that not also be considered "singular intent"? (I am trying to make it smell like rose)

 

[parker25mv]

Another difference is that when an accord is added to a fragrance, usually it will clearly leave its mark and be discernable in that fragrance. (Whether that is the final fragrance, or just the base the accord is used in)
This is not always true for bases. There is some tendency for bases to contribute a more muddled impression that is not so obviously distinctly recognisable, in the combined fragrance.

Again, this is not a hard absolute rule. Probably one of the more minor differences, much further down on the list, if you're having trouble telling whether it's an accord or a base. And I really don't think this is a fundamental rule, but just how things turn out; maybe more like an exogenous consequent rule.

 

[David Ruskin]

Reading the last few posts it becomes apparent that some of the contributors have not read the first posts. And it is apparent which have. At the beginning I gave my definitions of both "Base" and "Accord" (post number 3). I stick by those definitions. May I suggest that those contributing to the chaos re-read ( or more likely read for the first time) those opening posts.

If you don't know what you are talking about, and it rapidly becomes clear when that happens, it is probably better to keep quiet.

 

[Gadgets82]

I Like David's thought here... I will only add that I think a Base is considered to be more complex than an accord, as much as a perfume in itself, and meant to fulfill a need that might be like an EO, or some other complex Non-EO note, like "Leather", or "Outer Space", or "Hot Metal", etc.

Hi,
Sorry i know this is an old topic.
Mr. Kiler, i have been following your work for a bit now (youtube, basenotes, zoologist etc etc) i have recently ordered your plumeria base from PSH. Can your base be used as a "plumeria" accord in a composition?
Sorry if that seems like a slightly ignorant question, but im still semi new at this and have only made very simple compositions for learning purposes.
Thanks for any response.

 

[pkiler]

Hi,
Sorry i know this is an old topic.
Mr. Kiler, i have been following your work for a bit now (youtube, basenotes, zoologist etc etc) i have recently ordered your plumeria base from PSH. Can your base be used as a "plumeria" accord in a composition?
Sorry if that seems like a slightly ignorant question, but im still semi new at this and have only made very simple compositions for learning purposes.
Thanks for any response.

Hi, I think that the Plumeria base can be used in several manners... and I think that the use you suggested would be perfect for it.
In general, I think that the Plumeria base is more complex than most accords are.

 

[Gadgets82]

Hi, I think that the Plumeria base can be used an several manners... and I think that the use suggest would be perfect for it.
In general, I think that the Plumeria base is more complex than most accords are.

Ok, thank you for your quick response. I think im gonna use it as a focal point and try and build around it, but not so much as to draw attention away from it.