2023 Smelly Games #2: "10 Materials or Fewer"

[AdamE]

2023 Smelly game #2, with a due date for submissions to the judges by June 30th, 2023.

"10 Materials or Fewer"

RULES:

Fragrance family is entirely open. This can be any style you'd like, but you can only use 10 materials for the entire formula (not including alcohol)

Materials may include any single molecule, essential oil/absolute or isolate, and any commercially available bases or accords (things like Blackwood Base from Firmenich, or a Violet Key Accord from Perfumer's Apprentice would be permissible) but you may NOT use an accord of your own making unless you count each material in that accord towards the 10 material limitations of this game.

Make sense?

If you are interested in participating as a judge, or by submitting a fragrance, let me know and I will update this post with who is doing what.

Judges:
Same judging criteria and outline from Game #1

@Yuri-G (UK)
@Jitterbug Perfume Lover
@Solua Botanica (CA)

Participants:
Submissions are due in the mail by June 30th, 2023

@AdamE
@Pinkster
@xii
@enframing
@Marlaney
@TWennekes
@dreaming_jewels

 

[David Ruskin]

Sorry to be a pain ( nah, I'm not!), but the title should be "10 materials or fewer".

 

[I.D.Adam]

Seems being able to use bases obviates the 10 material rule

 

[Pinkster]

I believe when we originally discussed rules for this game, we settled on allowing commercial bases on the logic that we’re not banning naturals for being complex materials, and some bases act as substitutes for expensive naturals that are out of reach for some perfumers.

That said, for my entry I’m planning on disclosing all ingredients used, so the judges will know if I used bases. I’m hoping to avoid that (just for the extra challenge), but one blend I’m working on uses a base to replicate a natural musk I’d rather avoid.

 

[I.D.Adam]

I believe when we originally discussed rules for this game, we settled on allowing commercial bases on the logic that we’re not banning naturals for being complex materials, and some bases act as substitutes for expensive naturals that are out of reach for some perfumers.

That said, for my entry I’m planning on disclosing all ingredients used, so the judges will know if I used bases. I’m hoping to avoid that (just for the extra challenge), but one blend I’m working on uses a base to replicate a natural musk I’d rather avoid.

I understand, however if 5 bases are used you may be using close to 100 materials which renders "10 materials" pointless. A natural material is what it is and the multiple molecules within make a single whole we identify with a single entity. A base, whether meant to replace a natural material or give an effect, e.g., "amber," can be composed to do so much more.

 

[ourmess]

I understand, however if 5 bases are used you may be using close to 100 materials which renders "10 materials" pointless.

The same logic would apply to 5 EOs. "If this widely-available common complex mixture is allowed, then that widely-available common complex mixture is allowed" was the idea. Banning EOs would be fairly silly even though they contain dozens-to-hundreds of molecules, so likewise with bases.

"10 line items" may have been more accurate but *shrug*.

 

[xii]

I'm game.

That said, for my entry I’m planning on disclosing all ingredients used, so the judges will know if I used bases. I’m hoping to avoid that (just for the extra challenge), but (...)

Ditto.

 

[enframing]

I love this idea and would like to participate. I'm totally new at this.

What exactly counts as a base? Does, say, Rose Petal Fleuressence or FTEC from Perfumers World count as a base or accord? They call it a "compound base" on their website...

 

[Yuri-G]

I would be happy to judge again. I'm loving smelling the wonderful work of my fellow basenoters!

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

I would love to judge again too, please.

 

[AdamE]

I love this idea and would like to participate. I'm totally new at this.

What exactly counts as a base? Does, say, Rose Petal Fleuressence or FTEC from Perfumers World count as a base or accord? They call it a "compound base" on their website...

Any commonly available bases or accords are allowed. I like the idea of reframing this challenge as "10 line items or fewer"

 

[enframing]

Ok cool. I figure most of us are not going to only use varying amounts:

Amber Key Accord
Fougere Key Accord
Floral Key Accord
Citrus Key Accord

That'd be no fun anyway.

 

[dwsel]

I believe when we originally discussed rules for this game, we settled on allowing commercial bases on the logic that we’re not banning naturals for being complex materials, and some bases act as substitutes for expensive naturals that are out of reach for some perfumers.

That said, for my entry I’m planning on disclosing all ingredients used, so the judges will know if I used bases. I’m hoping to avoid that (just for the extra challenge), but one blend I’m working on uses a base to replicate a natural musk I’d rather avoid.

I wanted to write my ingredients as well, but I understand some people don't want to.

I was thinking about commercial well known bases that you won't have problem sourcing while you might have problem with sourcing original ingredients. For instance:
In one draft I'm using a commercial base which is a Schiff base and I'm counting it as a 2 materials. In another draft I'm using natural EO replacer for X reason (for me it was that I didn't have that EO at the moment, but I'm planning to replace it for the natural).

I might be wrong, but I believe that using complex bases like fleuressences or Robertet or PKiller fruit recreations defeats the purpose of this competition.

 

[AdamE]

Bumping the thread to see how everyone is doing with their creations, and to allow more people to participate if theyre interested

This one has been kinda tough for me so far.

 

[xii]

This one has been kinda tough for me so far.

Same here. I thought I had it figured out, three different directions actually to chose from, but it appears so far I might end up with a perfume I would be able to vastly improve having extra half a dozen ingredients.

 

[AdamE]

but it appears so far I might end up with a perfume I would be able to vastly improve having extra half a dozen ingredients.

Thats pretty much where I am at. I have a nice base for something resembling Bois du Portugal

 

[Pinkster]

I don’t want to jinx myself, but I’m really enjoying this challenge so far. Admittedly my formulas don’t tend to be long to begin with (almost always under 30 lines). So far I’m leaning pretty heavily on some natural materials supplemented by a core of 3-4 synthetics, and the biggest challenge is definitely finding just the right balance.

I’ve actually got two trials going; one is a fresh cologne with citron and cypress, and the other is a filthy musk bomb. I’m not sure which will turn out better in the end, but I’m enjoying switching between the two. I’d love to hear about everyone else’s projects!

 

[Yuri-G]

I don’t want to jinx myself, but I’m really enjoying this challenge so far. Admittedly my formulas don’t tend to be long to begin with (almost always under 30 lines). So far I’m leaning pretty heavily on some natural materials supplemented by a core of 3-4 synthetics, and the biggest challenge is definitely finding just the right balance.

I’ve actually got two trials going; one is a fresh cologne with citron and cypress, and the other is a filthy musk bomb. I’m not sure which will turn out better in the end, but I’m enjoying switching between the two. I’d love to hear about everyone else’s projects!

Filthy Musk Bomb. I think you should call it that!

 

[xii]

I have a filthy bomb too. Half a dozen ingredients, but so far no way to finish it in the direction I want it to go: Edwardian era dandy sort of a thing, with some pessimistic idea behind it, named with a clear reference to a Oscar Wilde's quote.

A cologne would be my choice too, but I submitted one for the sandalwood game and would like to do something else.

 

[xii]

So I pushed one of my projects. Happily threw in six naturals, obviously, and realised they obliterate ifra limits. Should I care?

 

[AdamE]

So I pushed one of my projects. Happily threw in six naturals, obviously, and realised they obliterate ifra limits. Should I care?

I certainly dont.

 

[Yuri-G]

So I pushed one of my projects. Happily threw in six naturals, obviously, and realised they obliterate ifra limits. Should I care?

I would say not. While you could absolutely submit a market-ready fragrance, the competitions can also be a place to explore the possibilities of perfumery as art.

 

[TWennekes]

Ok, I'm totally new here but gonna use this challenge to explore my raw materials and preferences.

As for now I'll start of with:
App patchone couer
Coumarine
Indol
Muscanone
Benzoë Siam resin

Direction is a bit dark, sweet and musky. Have no idea how what direction next.

 

[enframing]

Jeez I forgot about this. I better get to work!

 

[Marlaney]

I would love to join this game if it’s not too late. I’ve been wanting to experiment with some compositions that involve few ingredients.

 

[enframing]

Ok, I'm totally new here but gonna use this challenge to explore my raw materials and preferences.

As for now I'll start of with:
App patchone couer
Coumarine
Indol
Muscanone
Benzoë Siam resin

Direction is a bit dark, sweet and musky. Have no idea how what direction next.

I'm going gourmand, with inspiration from this track:

Do we all get to samples of everyone's so we can all see/smell our creations?

 

[dreaming_jewels]

Maybe a stupid question; will the testing be done blind, or will the judges read the formulas ahead of time?

 

[xii]

I'd very much like my entry to be initially evaluated blind. PM is OK for the feedback. I don't mind sharing the ingredient list then for the official review.

 

[AdamE]

I updated the participant list, but we are pretty thin on judges, if anyone else would be interested in getting a bunch of random packages from complete strangers, let me know

 

[enframing]

Maybe a stupid question; will the testing be done blind, or will the judges read the formulas ahead of time?

Seems to me it should be blind....

 

[enframing]

Getting closer. This is so much fun, and challenging. Learning a lot about my materials! It's fascinating that just adding .5% of something can make such a huge difference.

 

[mnitabach]

Getting closer. This is so much fun, and challenging. Learning a lot about my materials! It's fascinating that just adding .5% of something can make such a huge difference.

It is! Depending on what you add, 0.0001% can be enormous...

 

[pavomi]

2023 Smelly game #2, with a due date for submissions to the judges by June 30th, 2023.

"10 Materials or Fewer"

RULES:

Fragrance family is entirely open. This can be any style you'd like, but you can only use 10 materials for the entire formula (not including alcohol)

Materials may include any single molecule, essential oil/absolute or isolate, and any commercially available bases or accords (things like Blackwood Base from Firmenich, or a Violet Key Accord from Perfumer's Apprentice would be permissible) but you may NOT use an accord of your own making unless you count each material in that accord towards the 10 material limitations of this game.

Make sense?

If you are interested in participating as a judge, or by submitting a fragrance, let me know and I will update this post with who is doing what.

Judges:
Same judging criteria and outline from Game #1

@Yuri-G (UK)
@Jitterbug Perfume Lover
@Solua Botanica (CA)

Participants:
Submissions are due in the mail by June 30th, 2023

@AdamE
@Pinkster
@xii
@enframing
@Marlaney
@TWennekes
@dreaming_jewels

i'd like to participate in this one! if still possible to join...

 

[AdamE]

i'd like to participate in this one! if still possible to join...

Sure. Would you like to submit, or would you like to judge?

 

[smelly_liquid]

I updated the participant list, but we are pretty thin on judges, if anyone else would be interested in getting a bunch of random packages from complete strangers, let me know

I would be happy to judge if still needed!

 

[pavomi]

Sure. Would you like to submit, or would you like to judge?

actually to submit. but thinking about it, judging would be nice too. if the game needs a judge based in EU, i'd be happy doing this. is it ok for you AdamE if you decide? i'm fine with both.

just one thing about judging, after re-reading some posts of this thread: in case the submitted fragrance does not comply with health regulations, i would expect a clear message stating which ingredients and amounts are used that are not compliant. maybe this rule is a good way to show respect for all of us that are judging, so that everyone is aware what to put on your skin or rather test on blotter. just saying...

 

[AdamE]

The issue with having judges in Europe is that most of the participants are located in the states, which makes shipping pretty expensive, and then there are all the customs issues. I have had 1 out of 3 packages actually arrive in Europe.

So for the sake of these games, we leave it up to the participant to decide if they want to actually try and ship to Europe or not. If you want to judge and hope you get some entries, cool with me.

 

[enframing]

Questions:

1) Where does one find what the IFRA limits are? I have no idea what these might be.
2) How much fragrance do we need to send to each judge?

 

[David Ruskin]

Questions:

1) Where does one find what the IFRA limits are? I have no idea what these might be.

Go to the IFRA web site. Eventually you will find the limits of use of various ingredients in a variety of end products.

 

[Marlaney]

Questions:

1) Where does one find what the IFRA limits are? I have no idea what these might be.
2) How much fragrance do we need to send to each judge?

Make sure you search by CAS number because some materials don’t show up under the name you may know.
If it’s not in the library, it is unrestricted.
Good luck!

Here is the link to their standards:
IFRA Standards