2023 Smelly Game #1: Soliflore

[xii]

Are we doing briefs again where each creator submits a little information about their intentions beforehand?

Once I do some actual blending I have a story figured out. I wouldn’t mind sending it along the samples.

EU resident here - it'd be possible for us to dodge import duties if we agree to send all our overseas packages in the "gift" category (with no declared monetary value). Please let me know if this isn't appropriate

I’m sending from Germany and keep disguising my samples in a form of a letter. Sadly, it is literally impossible to do it otherwise without a license.

 

[papadooku]

Looking at the French post's website - 3,70 € to send a letter under 100 grams to the US. This could work then! By the way, out of curiosity, what sample sizes are you gonna be sending?

 

[xii]

Looking at the French post's website - 3,70 € to send a letter under 100 grams to the US. This could work then! By the way, out of curiosity, what sample sizes are you gonna be sending?

I’d suggest choosing a registered letter. Unregistered ones containing small solid objects have a high tendency to get lost.
I’m using crappy 2ml vials, usually two of them, the thinnest I managed to source.

 

[Phoenix_Rose]

I'm sure the contestants are not at this point quite yet, but I eagerly anticipate learning more about each of your submissions. Are we doing briefs again where each creator submits a little information about their intentions beforehand?

Edit: Something we've done in past competitions is post our creative briefs/personal inspirations/notes etc. in a post but we "spoiler alerted" it, meaning there was a way to cover up the text so that readers can view it only if they want to.

Im on ver5 so far with mine, its a floral, but dont wanna give too much away

Just wondering, how would you like these delivered? As pure oil, EDP etc?

Thanks!

 

[SubUmbra]

Im on ver5 so far with mine, its a floral, but dont wanna give too much away

Just wondering, how would you like these delivered? As pure oil, EDP etc?

Thanks!

My logic is that it should be delivered however you intend it to be smelled.

 

[AdamE]

Hey everyone!

Just wanted to bump this thread as we are in the final couple of weeks before submissions are due.

JUDGES: If you're still planning on participating, please DM me with your preferred shipping address

PARTICIPANTS: If you think you'll have a sample ready to go by the deadline, send me a DM for the judges addresses


Excited to see what everyone has come up with.

 

[AdamE]

Another bump of the thread. deadline is approaching soon, and so far I have only heard from 2 potential participants and two judges.

 

[xii]

Since about 6 weeks ago I've been fighting to get the dry down right. By right I mean exactly as I want it to be, which is kinda minimalistic and cheap, in spite of being neither. So I have the top and the drydown done separately and never blended together yet. I hope the two will blend as supposed. Anyways, I'm not really enthusiastic about sending a story along the samples. There was a story, and I kind of followed it mostly but in the end compulsive obsession got the better of me and the only story left is madness.

 

[SubUmbra]

There was a story, and I kind of followed it mostly but in the end compulsive obsession got the better of me and the only story left is madness.

Been there, done that! Looking forward to smelling all the same.

 

[b neglecta]

With ten days to go I am prepared to call mine a total failure. But I have also found a story of madness! Maybe next game....

 

[Pinkster]

Since about 6 weeks ago I've been fighting to get the dry down right. By right I mean exactly as I want it to be, which is kinda minimalistic and cheap, in spite of being neither. So I have the top and the drydown done separately and never blended together yet. I hope the two will blend as supposed. Anyways, I'm not really enthusiastic about sending a story along the samples. There was a story, and I kind of followed it mostly but in the end compulsive obsession got the better of me and the only story left is madness.

I’ll admit I had a similar experience, though I was struggling with the opening rather than the dry down. Still, I think I ended up with something that’s probably (mostly?) a soliflore. I just finished compounding today so it might still be a little raw when the judges get their samples, but I hope to get samples shipped next week.

A little preview of my entry, with a short story:

Spoiler: Malbec Rose

​

A classic marriage of Damask roses and a glass of fine red wine. Malbec Rose opens with tart bergamot and cassis, unfolding into a boozy Moroccan rose with notes of plum and dried fruits. A smooth oaky finish completes the fragrance, offering hints of vanilla, myrrh, and patchouli.

​

 

[AdamE]

Got my samples sent out today, including (hopefully) to our Judge in the UK

I went with a Vetiver soliflore, and will post a spoiler in a couple days.

 

[dwsel]

I've managed to send mine yesterday. In national post I had three options:
1. unregistered letter
2. registered letter
3. registered letter with declaration of content and price of the contents.
I picked option 2. I hope it will arrive to you within 2-3 weeks at most.

Cherry Blossom
Top: cherry blossom, orange
Mid: neroli, honey, rose wood, jasmine
Bot: dry woods, moss, musk

Careful with spraying on skin as it contains tiniest amount of oakmoss abs

 

[xii]

My samples will be dispatched later on today.

Spoiler: Magnolia Soliflore

There's no pyramid. I used two michelia alba essential oils, both from China. In frivolous amounts. I was fixated on the idea of magnolia flowers being around long before bees emerged. Their flower structure bears remarkable similarities to a pine cone. Which might be the reason much of the magnolia flower fragrance is coming from sharp terpy components. And yet it's stunningly floral. I thought it was my challenge and used a bunch of materials that don't smell of flowers or pleasant, and tried to combine them in a magnolia-ish way. I haven't smelled the actual michelia alba flowers, just the essential oil, so I took liberty to twist the fragrance towards magnolias I'm more familiar with.

 

[yearofscent]

I'm sadly going to have to drop out of this round. I was working around some travel, and things got rushed, and now I'm dealing with some problems with my materials, so this is unfortunately not ready to be sprayed on anyone. I was working on an orange blossom soliflore, and I'm hopeful I can adapt it to something for a future game. Sorry for the last-minute change! I'm loving the descriptions from other participants and look forward to hearing what the judges say about them-- thanks for volunteering your time to evaluate!

 

[SubUmbra]

I'm sadly going to have to drop out of this round. I was working around some travel, and things got rushed, and now I'm dealing with some problems with my materials, so this is unfortunately not ready to be sprayed on anyone. I was working on an orange blossom soliflore, and I'm hopeful I can adapt it to something for a future game. Sorry for the last-minute change! I'm loving the descriptions from other participants and look forward to hearing what the judges say about them-- thanks for volunteering your time to evaluate!

Sorry to hear, but makes sense. I'd be happy to sniff and analyze it with you later if you'd like, I don't mind if it isn't in the particular time frame of this game. I'm a sucker for orange blossom so it would really be my own pleasure to do so.

 

[AdamE]

My Submission:

Spoiler: Prins Ayiti

White linen sheets wave brightly in the Caribbean breeze; through sun flashes of apple and sharp salt, the vetiver rhythm is introduced. Is it the sand shifting around the sweet grass fields that gives this earthy fragrance an undeniable sway? Maybe it’s the Haitian vanilla resting on the skin like sun warmed silk.

This is a Haitian Vetiver recreation. I wanted to try and capture and re imagine my favorite parts of Haitian Vetiver. An apple blossom and dank earth opening, semi-sweet Vetiver body, and then an earthy, musky, Haitian (rum) Vanilla in the base.

 

[yearofscent]

Sorry to hear, but makes sense. I'd be happy to sniff and analyze it with you later if you'd like, I don't mind if it isn't in the particular time frame of this game. I'm a sucker for orange blossom so it would really be my own pleasure to do so.

That would be fantastic! Let me see if I can get it pulled together and I will reach out. Thanks!

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

Hello creators! I've just opened the mail and found two beautiful and wonderful samples waiting!! WooHoo, let the games begin!
I've received Malbec Rose from Pinkster and Prens Ayiti from Adam E. I'll close my eyes and grab one and report back, hopefully tomorrow evening. If anyone can explain to me how to do the spoiler alert button, I'll be happy to add that.

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

*****SPOILER ALERT*****

Review of Malbec Rose submitted by Pinkster

Notes breakdown: Damask Rose, bergamot, cassis, plum, dried fruit, oak, vanilla, myrrh, and patchouli

Applied at 8:15 1ml dabbed on wrists, neck and decoleté, and reapplied at 5:30pm for this review.

The insert reads "A classic marriage of Damask roses and a glass of fine red wine. Malbec Rose opens with tart bergamot and cassis, unfolding into a boozy Moroccan rose with notes of plum and dried fruits. A smooth oaky finish completes the fragrance, offering hints of vanilla, myrrh, and patchouli".

Also noted that Pinkster has taken the time to put the sample in a tiny paper bag which is sealed with a red wax seal and embossed with gold roses. Her insert is handwritten with a bluish/plum and red wine-colored iridescent pen that mimics the notes. I knew I was in trouble before I even sniffed it.

Today I had a yard sale. On my way out the door to set up, I dabbed Malbec Rose on and caught my breath. MY GOD, THIS IS BEAUTIFUL, was the only thing I could think in the moment. I was completely unprepared for the gifts this perfume would give me.

I was thinking about all the rose perfumes I own – 37 to be exact, yet I’m always looking for “the one”. I’ve collected 37 because each one had something I wanted, but none of them had everything. Rose is my second favorite note, and it holds a very special place in my heart. Roses have always been the symbol of love. There is significance and meaning around the color and how each color conveys a particular type of love. This is what I want; a rose perfume that conveys all the possibilities of love; how love can be at once deep and rich but also fresh and exciting; and how the most basic of human emotions "to love and be loved" can be so complex.

Not only that, roses are also the symbol of mystical love, and there are a number of liturgical blends that include roses. It is said that Christian saints effuse an odor of sanctity which smells of thousands of roses. I want this in my perfume too. I want to touch the divine through the mystery of love. Perhaps this is too much to ask.

I’ve searched high and low for a rose perfume that encompasses both romantic love and mystical love. In my collection there are facets of each. For example, I love the sweetness of a jammy rose. Jammy roses say “love is sweet”. Roses with plum say “love is deep”. Roses with patchouli say “mature love withstands the test of time”, while young playful roses say “love can surprise you”. Dry roses say “sometimes love is complicated”, while dewy roses remind you that "love is vibrant". Love is all that and more.

Malbec Rose is a jammy boozy vibrant rose with a touch of sweetness. It’s a lush full-bodied rose with no sour notes, while the plum and myrrh add a sexy depth as well as a hint of a mystical encounter. The bergamot opening made it fresh and young, while the dried fruit gave it aged sophistication, but through it all was this GORGEOUS, and I mean gorgeous red Bordeaux note. I was thinking this was everything I wanted all in one perfume – the mature sophistication from Portrait of a Lady, the sexiness in Malle’s Une Rose, the jammyness in Yves Rocher Rose Absolute or Kemi Blending Magic’s Aurum, the myrrh in Cinabre, the plum in Rose Volupte, the freshness in La Fille de Berlin….I could go on and on.

As I was thinking all this, a man carrying a guitar walked up to browse my yard sale. As usual, I struck up a conversation. He was about 80 years old and said he was on the way home from a gig (at 80!!) and asked if he could sit with us for a moment in the shade. We offered him something to drink so he could cool down, and as we sat there, he spoke about his wife in the way that someone who has known the sweetness and depth of love, as well as it's playfulness and surprises has experienced; he spoke with a sparkle in his eye and a contented smile on his face, speaking of his wife with equal parts reverence and gratitude to have experienced the magic and mystery of love's gifts. Rather than to go home to an empty house, he took out his guitar and began to sing “Sabor a Mi”, which is one of the most romantic songs ever written, with the absolute loveliest voice. He sang it not like someone who had simply memorized the lyrics, but sang like someone who had actually experienced the lyrics - in a voice almost exactly like the male lead in Trio Los Ponchos, from my favorite version by Eydie Gorme Y Trio Los Ponchos. I had to pinch myself. Is this really happening??? Am I in a movie??? Here I am on a perfect Sunday afternoon, sitting on the porch wearing the most gorgeous rose perfume ever while being serenaded in one of the most romantic songs ever written. I’m not sure if I’ve died and gone to heaven, but if I have, leave me right here please. That's when it occurred to me that our nose, Pinkster, has also composed her own ode to love in notes that only someone who has experienced the magic and mystery of it's gifts can convey.
Pinkster, you’ve outdone yourself. This is a masterpiece.

Quality 5: It’s a rare masterpiece; I LOVE it
Originality 5 There’s absolutely nothing else like it
Projection and Silage 4: Heavy – people could smell me coming and going
Longevity 3 to 4: Long-lasting – 6 to 7 hours, but I wanted to re-dab often just to get that lovely opening again and again all day long.
Versatility 5: This scent can work perfectly for pretty much anyone, anywhere, anytime and crosses boundaries as long as you really really love roses as much as I do
Likeablility 5: Compliments and questions about the scent were received
Overall Rating 4 or 5: Amazing! I literally want a bottle of this - this fragrance has the teensiest flaw in that the dry down just sort of whispered at the end. I did not care because it is a true masterpiece; a revamp of several classics. It surpasses expectations and can be considered a staple for many collectors.

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

I woke up in the middle of the night and revised my review a bit to flesh out some ideas.

 

[Pinkster]

Thank you SO much for your thoughts, Jitterbug! I’m really glad you enjoyed this one—this game really challenged me and I did nearly throw in the towel at one point, but I’m very glad I saw it through.

As I’m sure you’re intimately aware, rose soliflores have been done so many times that it was hard to find something new to say with rose. But I really enjoyed expanding on the rich, plummy aspects of red rose. A lot of the booziness comes from davana, datilat, oakwood CO2, patchouli and a lovely myrrh CO2 (from White Lotus Aromatics, so sadly all but impossible to replenish).

I was a little rushed pulling everything together at the last minute, so the samples I sent out are unaged. In my trials I found that the myrrh stands out more at first, but it does eventually blend a bit more smoothly with the rest of the notes. I hope you continue to enjoy Malbec Rose as it evolves!

PS. I loved your story about the guitarist! Funnily one of my inspirations for this scent came during a concert of 12th century troubadour music—you nailed the inspiration of courtly love! If you get a chance to listen to a rendition of Lanquan il Jorn sung by a baritone, you’ll get a glimpse of where I was coming from. 😊

 

[Bavard]

I have received the samples from AdamE and Pinkster. I will try to wear them in the next few days!

 

[Yuri-G]

My Submission:

Spoiler: Prins Ayiti

White linen sheets wave brightly in the Caribbean breeze; through sun flashes of apple and sharp salt, the vetiver rhythm is introduced. Is it the sand shifting around the sweet grass fields that gives this earthy fragrance an undeniable sway? Maybe it’s the Haitian vanilla resting on the skin like sun warmed silk.

This is a Haitian Vetiver recreation. I wanted to try and capture and re imagine my favorite parts of Haitian Vetiver. An apple blossom and dank earth opening, semi-sweet Vetiver body, and then an earthy, musky, Haitian (rum) Vanilla in the base.

Judging Prins Ayiti

Spoiler

This was the first entry I received. I tried not to look at the notes before smelling, and the apple note wes evident just from sniffing the sprayer.

The opening is quite arresting, with a sweet apple accord contrasting strongly with powerful earthy notes (geosmin, terrasol - something like that). There are some beautiful fresh florals supporting these two notes. It's a really lovely and unusual combination. More niche than designer. Earth obviously fits well with a vetiver theme; the apple is there I felt not as part of the vetiver story, but as a fresh and sweet contrast to the earth.

This opening combo dies down quite quickly, when the vanilla and vetiver come more to the fore, along with some clean musks. This part of the fragrance was lovely, but less striking than the opening. Although initial projection was good, it was quite modest thereafter. Longevity is good as a skin scent. I can still smell the fragrance after almost 12 hours, but only with my nose pressed into my wrist. It has been like this for a few hours.

Overall I really enjoyed this fragrance. I think the earth notes really work, but might be divisive for some tastes. To me however, that's a good thing. It's quite unisex, though the opening might appeal to men a bit more. It's light and fresh, so more suited to summer I would say.

My one comment would be that, if I were a Vetiver freak looking for a vetiver soliflore, I might find there's not enough vetiver to satisfy me. I found the vanilla stronger than the Vetiver. More vetiver might actually give the base a bit more kick too.

Scoring

Scent 3.5
Originality 3.5 (opening would be a 4, drydown a 3)
Projection 3
Longevity 4.5 (the base could use a boost, but it lasts ages)
Versatility 2 (summery and possibly more masculine)
Likeability 2.5 (no unsolicited compliments, but when asked, a couple of people said it was nice. However, with that strong earthy opening, I got a sense that the perfumer was striving for something interesting rather than mass appealing)

Overall 3.5

The lack of projection in the mid - base and not enough vetiver for me stopped this from hitting a 4. But overall, I found this fragrance very interesting and enjoyable!

Thank you.

[/ISPOILER]

 

[AdamE]

Judging Prins Ayiti

Spoiler

This was the first entry I received. I tried not to look at the notes before smelling, and the apple note wes evident just from sniffing the sprayer.

The opening is quite arresting, with a sweet apple accord contrasting strongly with powerful earthy notes (geosmin, terrasol - something like that). There are some beautiful fresh florals supporting these two notes. It's a really lovely and unusual combination. More niche than designer. Earth obviously fits well with a vetiver theme; the apple is there I felt not as part of the vetiver story, but as a fresh and sweet contrast to the earth.

This opening combo dies down quite quickly, when the vanilla and vetiver come more to the fore, along with some clean musks. This part of the fragrance was lovely, but less striking than the opening. Although initial projection was good, it was quite modest thereafter. Longevity is good as a skin scent. I can still smell the fragrance after almost 12 hours, but only with my nose pressed into my wrist. It has been like this for a few hours.

Overall I really enjoyed this fragrance. I think the earth notes really work, but might be divisive for some tastes. To me however, that's a good thing. It's quite unisex, though the opening might appeal to men a bit more. It's light and fresh, so more suited to summer I would say.

My one comment would be that, if I were a Vetiver freak looking for a vetiver soliflore, I might find there's not enough vetiver to satisfy me. I found the vanilla stronger than the Vetiver. More vetiver might actually give the base a bit more kick too.

Scoring

Scent 3.5
Originality 3.5 (opening would be a 4, drydown a 3)
Projection 3
Longevity 4.5 (the base could use a boost, but it lasts ages)
Versatility 2 (summery and possibly more masculine)
Likeability 2.5 (no unsolicited compliments, but when asked, a couple of people said it was nice. However, with that strong earthy opening, I got a sense that the perfumer was striving for something interesting rather than mass appealing)

Overall 3.5

The lack of projection in the mid - base and not enough vetiver for me stopped this from hitting a 4. But overall, I found this fragrance very interesting and enjoyable!

Thank you.

[/ISPOILER]

I very much appreciate the review!

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

*****SPOILER ALERT*****

Review of "PRINS AYITI (Prince of Haiti)" submitted by Adam E.
Notes breakdown Apple Blossom, Vetiver, Earth, Haitian Vanilla

Applied at 8am: 4 sprays on wrists, neck and decoleté, and re-applied at 5:30pm for this review
The intro says "White linen sheets wave brightly in the Caribbean breeze; through sun flashes of apple and sharp salt, the vetiver rhythm is introduced. Is it the sand shifting around the sweet grass fields that gives this earthy fragrance an undeniable sway? Maybe it’s the Haitian vanilla resting on the skin like sun warmed silk."

King Adam has gifted me today with this entry, Prince of Haiti. I smell like royalty. Let me begin at the beginning. Vetiver is a difficult note for me. I struggle with vetiver notes because it almost always turns too sharp on me, and when it’s smoky, it’s worse. This is why I love exploring new scents with you here. There is always that fragrance that opens your eyes and makes you think about notes differently.

But this…..this is beyond words. I can’t even say exactly which part is my favorite – the airy apple blossom that literally smells like sunshine on leaves, or the wet earth on sand on grass effect, or that silky soft vanilla drydown. To top it off, in the last game, I’d asked Adam for more longevity and projection and it’s here! This fragrance lasted about 8 hours and I found myself craving it more and more. I’ve worn it for three days straight and want more. I’m pretty sure Adam has created a new genre because this fragrance is an aquatic freshie/fougere/gourmand. It’s emotive and how it wears throughout the day is a soothing, relaxing experience. Each day, I wore it, I felt like I’d gone on vacation to a hidden remote island, undiscovered and unspoiled. I had no idea how much I’d always wanted something like this in my collection until now.

The opening is magical. It’s gentle and warm, and very, very soothing. I fell asleep on the beach in Koh Samui once, and I woke up at the crack of dawn to dip my toes in the water while I watched the sunrise; feeling so safe and warm in this tiny remote island in paradise, while the universe dazzled my sleepy eyes with all the colors of the sunrise. The opening is that moment just after sunrise when the cool salty air is warmed by the sunshine and it has a soft warm, fresh briny smell. It’s both fresh and salty, warm and cool. The scent of warm earth, with the cool whisper of apple blossom is so beautiful and cozy.

In the middle, there is a transition when the grassy vetiver comes forward and it’s seamless and smooth. It’s the Prince walking barefoot through the tall grass while looking at the clear, turquoise blue water. There is no need for special agents in black suits to follow him around because he is loved by all. He is a just and compassionate Prince. He rules with kindness and integrity. He is well respected and loved. There are no sharp edges or surprises here, just soft gentle breezes and dappled sunlight shining through the trees. For reference, I have a bottle of Heeley Ophelia, which smells like flowers floating in water on a cool pond. This is like vetiver floating on water in a gently lapping ocean.

The drydown is this smooth silky vanilla with the tiniest hint of incense; which is probably the vetiver winding down. Vanilla is my favorite note, and because I love how vanilla notes impart coziness and warmth, this is perhaps the best part for me. I’ve never smelled vanilla in this way. It’s elevated and green, but not sweet. It smells really really posh, which is why I feel like royalty in this. Overall, this fragrance is similar to Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Toit with the apple and grass notes, but takes it to another level with vetiver’s green whisper of incense in the background and this gorgeous silky vanilla. This fragrance makes me so happy. You’ve outdone yourself, Adam! Congratulations on this masterpiece.

Quality: 5 - It’s a rare masterpiece; I LOVE it and want to own it
Originality 5 – even though I’ve smelled similar perfumes, they weren’t as amazing as this. This is niche at it’s best.
Projection and Silage 4 - Heavy – people could smell me coming and going; I’m certain I left a scent trail at my “emergency preparedness” meeting because I could smell something amazing and I thought it was the man I was sitting next to. I approached him in the parking lot after the meeting to ask what he was wearing and when he said he wasn’t wearing anything than I knew I was the one who smelled so incredible.
Longevity 4.5 - Long-lasting – 7-8 hours on skin and about 12 hours on fabric
Versatility 4.5 -This works well for either day or night, , possibly best in Spring/Summer AND for all types of people
Likeablility 5 – Although no one approached me about what I was wearing because I was not in very public places except for my meeting, this would be the type of fragrance I’d wear for myself because it makes me so happy. I would imagine if I’d worn this out in more public places, I’d get lots of compliments and questions
Overall Rating 5 Amazing - this fragrance is not only flaw-free, but is a true masterpiece, a ground-breaking scent that would shape the industry or genre. It surpasses expectations and could be considered a staple for many niche collectors. All joking aside, I feel like this needs to go into production.

 

[AdamE]

Thats incredibly generous! Thank you for this wonderful review.

I think I will retain you to write reviews for all of my releases!

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

I also want to add that I think it's working really well to plan the games so far in advance! The two submissions I've tried thus far are so balanced and beautiful; it seems there was enough time to plan and let the materials macerate nicely.

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

I’d suggest choosing a registered letter. Unregistered ones containing small solid objects have a high tendency to get lost.
I’m using crappy 2ml vials, usually two of them, the thinnest I managed to source.

Please be careful with the thin vials if you're shipping internationally. In the last contest, some of the vials arrived crushed and there was no trace of perfume left. I felt awful for the contestants!

 

[Bavard]

I have four samples, now, having received the packages from dwsel and xii.

Today, I've been wearing the sample from Adam E. I like it. It's a familiar style from previous games. Something in the top came across as fancy.

I was getting the typical menthol vibe, full on vapor rub, and on top of that there was something extra that was giving it personality. From there it has settled without changing too, too much. I get a candy vibe, a little, in a nice way. This has some Orange Julius-type flavor, but it's still nice and easy to wear, a confident smell.

To the text: it mentions vetiver and vanilla. Vanilla, sure. Vetiver? Not a distinct vetiver note, but there's something nice in there - I guess I can see it as vetiver, now. It's a winning combination.

This is a strong entry. I've just gone to look back at what the theme is, and I see that it's to make "a single-note fragrance of your choice. It does not have to be "floral", it can be anything, but should obviously be that thing. If you're choosing Lavender, for example, explore the various aspects of Lavender and surprise us with what you come up with."

Quality: 4
Originality: 4
Projection and Silage: 3 to 4
Longevity: 3 to 4
Versatility: 4
Likeability: 4

I don't see how the entry fits with the goal of being a one-note fragrance, but I like it.

 

[Yuri-G]

My samples will be dispatched later on today.

Spoiler: Magnolia Soliflore

There's no pyramid. I used two michelia alba essential oils, both from China. In frivolous amounts. I was fixated on the idea of magnolia flowers being around long before bees emerged. Their flower structure bears remarkable similarities to a pine cone. Which might be the reason much of the magnolia flower fragrance is coming from sharp terpy components. And yet it's stunningly floral. I thought it was my challenge and used a bunch of materials that don't smell of flowers or pleasant, and tried to combine them in a magnolia-ish way. I haven't smelled the actual michelia alba flowers, just the essential oil, so I took liberty to twist the fragrance towards magnolias I'm more familiar with.

Review of Magnolia

Spoiler

My difficulty with this fragrance is that I am totally unfamiliar with the aroma of magnolia, either the flowers themselves or the essential oil used "frivolously" here. The magnolias are in bloom at the moment, but the kind of trees grown here in the UK are largely unscented. I managed to find one that smelled faintly of isoeugenol.

So I had no idea what to expect. Magnolan perhaps?

The fragrance arrived in two little vials with dip sticks. I lifted one of the caps for a sniff and exclaimed "Wow!"

I have to say that I absolutely love this fragrance! It's everything I would hope to create myself - powerful, beautiful, unique and a little bit weird. The vast majority of fragrances that I have smelled that are created by renowned professional perfumers don't excite me like this does. Xii has created something really special.

This is strong stuff, and the first thing that hit me was orris butter and carrot seed, underpinned by something sweetly herbal/spicy, like immortelle. Weirdly, when I felt had to check this with Xii, he confirmed that the fragrance doesn't contain any of these actual materials (earlier iterations included orris butter apparently), but instead (rather successful I would say) synthetic accords that represent these notes. The "aggrestic aspects", as Xii explained, of the two magnolia essential oils used contribute to the immortelle effect, along with some ACs. This central core is surrounded by fruity notes, centred around a realistic ripe pear, and fresh, slightly green and aldehydic florals, all sitting on bed of dry, clean musks. Smell closer and other facets come through - mushroom (jasmal?), dark molasses and anise. It's a fascinating combination of notes.

Performance is fantastic. I could smell it all day and into the evening. The skin scent remains 24 hours after application.

In his description, Xii mentioned that he wanted to create a masculine floral. I actually think this is very unisex.

Will this be for everyone? Probably not. Its power may make it overbearing to some and some of the notes may be divisive. Frankly it's too interesting to be mainstream. However, a colleague of mine who is a bit of a perfume buff was quite taken with it. Even she had initial reservations however. I think the unusual composition took her by surprise.

So versatility may be its only problem. It may be too strong for high summer, though the fresh and dry elements might make it work. And sure, it isn't "office safe", but who wants to smell like Jeff from Accounts? This would be worn by someone who enjoys interesting, artistic fragrances and wears them for him/herself rather than for the validation of others.

But for me, as an amateur perfumer still learning his craft, I found this one quite inspirational.

Does it smell like magnolia? I have no idea. Do I care? Absolutely not!

Scores

Scent - 5
Originality - 5
Projection - 4
Longevity - 5
Versatility - 2.5

 

[Bavard]

I'm trying the entry from Pinkster, Malbec Rose. This smells like a rose soliflore. The description with the sample mentions Damask rose, which sounds right to me from previous sampling when Damask rose was a listed note. I'm a fan of rose notes, so this is a promising soliflore. A good rose note can smell like flowers and woods all in one, and this perfume has some of that.

This is such a one-note fragrance, and I'm enjoying it - it makes me wonder if it's time to switch my fragrance focus to essential oils.

I have sampled a bunch of stuff like this over the years in sample passes, and always for a stay-at-home experience. I've never worn this kind of loud rose note out and about. This wouldn't have to be re-worked too much to be something I would wear on a regular basis. I feel like this is the feminine version of the idea and that there could be a masculine version, too. I would try to keep the rose note while adding some warmth (e.g., patchouli, sandalwood) to make a masculine version.

This has a bit of a potpourri rose smell, which I like. I've been told in the past that the potpourri vibe isn't good for perfume (by my wife, when I was sampling something like this), but I can't see why not. I like potpourri.

Quality: 5
Originality: 2
Projection and Silage: 4
Longevity: 4
Versatility: 3
Likeability: 4

 

[Pinkster]

Thanks so much for the feedback, Bavard—I’m glad you enjoyed my entry! A masculine version sounds like an interesting challenge. I currently have about 2% double-distilled patchouli in this version (it’s key to the wine aspect), but I could definitely see a masculine version that subtracts the vanillin and leans more heavily on the wood accords.

Thanks again for your thoughts, I always appreciate your reviews!

(Also, xii and AdamE—your entries sound incredible, I’m very jealous of our judges! 😂)

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

I wonder, if it would be possible for the entrants to sell samples to others who are interested? It might be a way of making up some of the costs for materials and postage? IDK just thinking out loud.

 

[AdamE]

I’d be willing to send samples to any other participants in these games, and would welcome the feedback

 

[Jitterbug Perfume Lover]

My feedback is START PRODUCTION!

One of my best friends, Bobby, has a "Lottery List" of people he will give a million dollars to when he wins the Mega Millions so that they can go into business and make whatever it is they make. I'm on Bobby's list, but you, ADAM and PINKSTER, are now on my list. Your talent needs to be experienced.

 

[Yuri-G]

I've managed to send mine yesterday. In national post I had three options:
1. unregistered letter
2. registered letter
3. registered letter with declaration of content and price of the contents.
I picked option 2. I hope it will arrive to you within 2-3 weeks at most.

Cherry Blossom
Top: cherry blossom, orange
Mid: neroli, honey, rose wood, jasmine
Bot: dry woods, moss, musk

Careful with spraying on skin as it contains tiniest amount of oakmoss abs

Review of Cherry Blossom

Spoiler

First things first, I am not the target market for this fragrance. Even as a man who is happy to rock Mitsouko or Carnal Flower, a cherry blossom soliflore sounds a bit too much like perfume-as-drag for me. But I’m here to be objective, so objective I shall be.

Presentation is beautiful. The samples came in two little bottles with a beautifully printed card that lists the notes on the one side and a Japanese-looking cherry blossom arrangement on the other. This looks very professional and was a lovely touch.

So what do I know about cherry blossom? I know that it’s a fantasy note and that most, if not all cherry blossoms have no scent. As with the magnolia before, it’s nice to have these spring-themed fragrances that coincide with these flowers blooming here in the UK, so that I can look like a total lunatic sniffing the trees in other people’s front gardens. You see how seriously I’m taking this? This extensive, slightly embarrassing research, which resulted in my partner refusing to walk with me in public, confirmed that cherry blossom indeed has no scent.

I couldn’t help but wonder how I would render this note. I see it as a soft and delicate scent, slightly honeyed and anisic, with heliotropin and touches of phenyl acetates, slightly almondy, perhaps with some freshness and subtle fruitiness underlying.

Reading the notes, I was surprised that, for a cherry blossom soliflore, cherry blossom only featured as a top note. However, I am aware of fragrances where other notes are combined to create an illusion of a central theme, so I guess that’s what the perfumer was going for.

Spraying the fragrance, the first impression is a big hit of benzaldehyde. I figured this material would probably feature, but its strength took me by surprise. On my second wearing, when I knew what to expect, this was less jarring, but I do think that this is slightly overdosed and would integrate better if lowered a tad.

The benzaldehyde died down very quickly, leaving me with…orange blossom. Neroli and jasmine are listed notes, so presumably this is where I get this impression. I think I smell Jasmine Sambac, or a good approximation of it, if not the real thing. It is a nice rendering of this floral family, and I noticed that the indolic elements were deftly incorporated in the drydown, but I was here for cherry blossom. Paired with the orange blossom/neroli and jasmine aspect is a strong woody accord (dry woods in the selling notes) which leans for me towards sandalwood. These notes take up a lot of space and, to be honest, dominate the experience.

While I love the theme (if not for me to wear personally) and think that the branding is beautifully done, this doesn’t quite hit the brief for me as a cherry blossom soliflore. I don’t think the balance is right just yet. The fragrance comes across as a jasmine/orange blossom/sandalwood perfume with a slightly too strong almond top note. I would take a lighter approach and dial back all of these notes considerably so that they are accents to the perfume rather than the perfume itself. Although I thought it was done well, I don’t know that I see indole as part of cherry blossom, so I would go for a cleaner, more transparent jasmine accord personally. Then I would look at incorporating the cherry blossom theme at least into the mid notes with the use of things like anisaldehyde, heliotropin, methyl cinnamate and raspberry ketone. There is a Sakura salicylate too, though I have never smelled this. Given the spring theme, some green notes to suggest burgeoning green leaves, and maybe a cold air accord might work well.

Quality - 3. I think I smell some expensive naturals in here, but they perhaps need to be integrated better
Originality - 3. It certainly doesn't smell like a clichéd designer scent.
Projection - 4. The jasmine/neroli note, and the almond topnote are all pretty strong.
Longevity - 4.
Overall - 2.5 This could be great, but it's not there yet, and I don't think it really meets the soliflore brief.

I hope this feedback is useful.

 

[Bavard]

Today, I am wearing Cherry Blossom. To me, it has the style of the Guerlain Aqua Allegorias, synthetic and tart. I'm getting an ambroxan / Dior Sauvage - type vibe smelling it up close.

On top of that, it does smell like cherry.

This kind of base / structure can smell interesting to me in moments, and then it can smell terribly harsh a few seconds later.

Someone else around me could wear this, and I might like it. I think I would. I think that's the idea with something like this, that it can make an impression. But it smells too harsh up close for me, and I like smelling perfume up close, so that makes it a challenge.

I would try to be strategic with it. You can wear this to a university lecture, and you will be making it a nice experience for the people around you, and you're probably going to get asked out. But then, for the date, I would vote for wearing something softer.

Quality: 3
Originality: 3
Projection and Silage: 5
Longevity: 5
Versatility: 3
Likeability: 3

 

[Bavard]

Today I'm wearing Magnolia from xii. Initial impressions are positive. It smells familiar. I like perfume from xii. And the packaging is super well done - coming from Germany to the US no problem, time after time. I've sampled a bunch of 4160 Tuesdays perfumes, and this is in the same style as a bunch of those. They are sometimes described as smelling like raspberry leaf, I think it is, and that same feel is coming to me from Magnolia. Or maybe it's red currants.

I'm really enjoying smelling this from close up. It's hard to stop. It's tart but soft. It makes me salivate and elevates my mood.

I like perfumes from xii, and I like reading about how he suffers in the process of trying to make something good. What he writes rings true for me when I smell the perfumes.

I keep having an alluring vision of a woman in tweed wearing this. I don't know the smell of magnolia well enough to say how well this does at approximating it.

There is something of a glue note that I remember from before, vaguely. And the glue note itself is vague. It can come and go, but in moments, there's a feeling of fresh glue / rubber cement - a smell of arts and crafts fun.

Quality: 4
Originality: 3
Projection and Silage: 4
Longevity: 4
Versatility: 3
Likeability: 5

This leans into the bitterness of the floral smell, and it's working. I'm even getting a bit of an 80s Ralph Lauren vibe.