Chypre by Essentially Me

...excuse me...but there seems to be an excess of cumin in my Chypre!...and lots of it! If you love cumin, this one will melt your heart. If you're like me, and have a serious aversion ~ you may not enjoy it. A little too foody for my taste too. True enough, the cumin fades and what's left is much like Coty's original Chypre! Although it's not my style, this unique take on the genre' should bring some devoted followers.

La Joupe by Essentially Me

La Joupe is a HUGE floral, with jasmine, orange flower, ylang ylang, musk, woods, vetiver, vanilla, tonka, oakmoss - you honestly couldn't fit anymore into this mix! I like the classic perfumery feel of this rich blend. In this case though I feel like less would mean more...and taking a few of the components out of the mix might lend to a more distinct personality. I'm going neutral on La Joupe, but with a slight leaning to the positive.

The Smell of Weather Turning by Gorilla Perfume [Lush]

I'm completely blown away by The Smell of Weather Turning. In fact, so are my co-workers & family members! Tested it out one morning and got 2 unsolicited compliments within 30 minutes time! Now really, how often does THAT happen?! This interesting fragrance opens with a clearly bright, almost palate cleansing note of mint that slowly gives way to a swirl of smokiness - like clouds rolling in overhead. This overcast phase is lovely. Compelling. I keep sniffing my wrist intermittently to see what's going to happen next. Then, as if the clouds are cleared by a gentle breeze, upward rises the scent of sweet wet grass, green and fresh. Some smells dried, which must be the notes of hay. It makes me smile. This final phase sticks for a good couple hours before completely fading. I cannot remember the last time a fragrance affected my emotions like this one...immediately, without further wearings, I got online & purchased the largest size bottle they offer!When my bottle arrives, I take note of the earth friendly packaging. Nice. There is also a cartoon face sticker of the gentleman (Steven as I recall) who lovingly prepared my fragrance for shipping! (I liked this fun personal touch!) The bottle itself is attractively shaped, plain & simple matte black. Great for preserving the juice. It also makes me presume that Gorilla Perfumes/Lush puts their dollars into the actual fragrance & not all the fancy/shmancy (ultimately unimportant) packaging & advertising stuff. I am pleased. While this is my first bottle owned from this perfume line, I'm pretty certain it won't be my last. I'll be sampling the rest of their line - each and every one! Two thumbs up - without hesitation.

Daphne by Daphne Guinness

Incense, bitter orange and tuberose. There are SO many more notes than merely these three living within this fragrance, but these are the stars. By 'stars' I mean the strongest players in the mix that really stand out as main characters. Once Daphne is on the skin for awhile, my nose can't decide if it needs a little more of something, or a little less? Sort of like seasoning a sauce. When you've tasted it too many times and can't determine the best way to make it just perfect...this is how I feel about Daphne. If I had one wish for Daphne, I would wish for the advice of Maurice Roucel...as I'm quite certain he would know how to master the final touches. As it stands, Daphne is likeable, but I'm not craving a full bottle. If your tastes run in the direction of loving incense, bitter orange or tuberose - I'd recommend giving Daphne at least a test run.

D'Humeur Massacrante by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I'm mostly with Quarry on this one...I get pepper and vetiver. I do like it though! There is a 'tangy-ness' to this concoction as well ~ weird yet wonderful!

Child by Susan D. Owens - Child

Child starts out as an indolic sweet floral and ends up as a soapy clean fresh musk closely resembling Amazing Grace by Philosophy. Being that Child is a limited edition and quite pricey (abour $100 per oz.) I'd rather spend $40. on an ounce or so of Amazing Grace. My point is that it's not bad, but certainly not worth the $. I turn a neutral thumb.

Iris 39 by Le Labo

Okay, after reading other reviews posted here you can call me 'crazy' but I'm absolutely nutty for this stuff! To my nose, Iris 39 is heavy on the Iris & Patchouli. The other 37 components are present only as support! This iris has got a fire & ice contradictory sort of feeling going on...moist rhizomes still coated in damp soil combined with greenery and vegetation dried out by the sun. Like Asha, I detect a kinship with Rose 31, be it ever so slight. If you enjoy fragrances containing notes of iris and or patchouli I highly recommend Le Labo's completely unisex Iris 39. It is one of my faves!

Chypre de Coty by Coty

WOW! I ponder the date 1917, and I believe one of my late grandparents was born that year... What amazes me about this fragrance is when it comes to my nose, I close my eyes and a flood of perfumes that sprang from Chypres' DNA rush through my mind! Unbelievable, the smell of it's history. Really, one needs to put into perspective that we are experiencing this smell "after the fact/effect". If not for this gorgeous blend, another masterpiece by the name of Mitsouko wouldn't exist, not to mention countless others that followed. In this way, as the supply of Chypre dwindles and eventually dies, it lives on via the lineage of its offspring. I respect this frag. Actually, my emotion is more of reverence. Will I wear this one regularly? Nah. There are plenty more modern scents suitable for my taste. But, this one is the grandparent to many of them. No doubt in my mind, thumbs up!

Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'Orange

Dad used to smoke a pipe when I was a wee little tyke...he kept his 'pipe collection' in a wooden display sort of holder. They were gorgeously carved wooden pieces of art to my little eyes. I used to pick them up, and visually admire them. Then, as a small child would do, I'd put one in my mouth and pretend to smoke it just like my father! It did'nt quite smell the same as when he lit it and puffed, so I'd put my nose into the opening where the tobacco goes. THIS is what the cigarette part of Jasmin et Cigarette smells like! The remnants of already smoked sweet pipe tobacco - and it's amazing! When I first sampled this scent, my expectations were at about zero. Never in a million years did I ever expect to purchase a full bottle - but I did! The jasmin here is perfectly paired with the ashen & smokey tobacco, lightly sweetened with notes of hay and apricot. The blend is fantastic, a real work of art. Quality ingredients, craftsmanship and the finished product is not only one of a kind - it is completely wearable! Thumbs up, without hesitation!

Acqua di Parma Colonia by Acqua di Parma

Truly a "reference" fragrance. Classic in composition, I consider it simply the benchmark of colognes!

Hervé Léger by Hervé Léger

Herve' Leger is plain and simple : Jasmine, Heliotrope, Sandalwood. You might presume it to be merely another run-o-the-mill designer frag, but you'd be missing out. This perfectly blended trio is mouthwatering, sweet, and sexy too. Extremely feminine and a sure fire compliment getter. The jasmine is subdued, and really feminine here. It is exactly the right flower to pair with the gourmand feeling of cherry/almond heliotrope. Let's not forget a luxurious and creamy sandalwood for warmth. Herve Leger radiates exquisitely off the skin, with fine sillage and excellent longevity...I read somewhere that it's creation has been credited to Alberto Morillas. Ladies, the next time you go sniffing, seek this out!

Cuir Beluga by Guerlain

Where's the leather? I get lots of vanilla-ish, almond-y notes here, but cannot detect the leather. The offerings I've sampled thus far from "L'Art et la Matiere" by Guerlain are so very similar...I don't see the point in owning more than one. Angelique Noire is the vanilla/almond I've chosen, and can therefore easily due without Cuir Beluga and Bois d'Armenie. Smell them all folks, then choose the one closest to your liking. Really, one will suffice. Thumbs up - for quality.

Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens

For my nose, Cuir Mauresque is Daim Blond on steroids. Extremely fruity. This 'amped up' version loses the subtle charm of DB...making me turn a neutral thumb.

Cologne à l'Italienne by Institut Tres Bien

Jemimagold and Asha have given extremely accurate detailed descriptions of this cheerful cologne. The only point I wish to add is regarding the iris note...it is presented with a light hand, which adds just a hint of powder to this blend, I find it quite clever. Bourdon has turned out an excellent composition!

Encens et Lavande by Serge Lutens

Lavander at the top, absolutely gorgeous and true. Dries down to a simple, dry, incense. This one is plain and simple, which makes it wearable - but a little boring too...thumbs up, but just barely.

DKNY Women by Donna Karan

Bitterly effervescent, this unique combination of weird yet wonderful notes is compelling. I'm not a complete fan, but admit there's something delightful about DKNY Women. What I love about it is the way the topnotes stay "fizzy" smelling - for a long time. If I didn't know any better, sniffing this blindly, I might suspect it to be a Keiko Mecheri frag. To my nose the blood orange citrus comes off a bit like grapefruit, which includes the pith. Obviously one could never pinpoint "freshly laundered t-shirt" or "wet pebble" accords when trying to deconstruct this mix. Definitely not sweet. Not soapy either. Impressive for a 'designer' offering, I must give a thumbs up!

Cereus pour Femme No. 12 by Cereus

Fruit salad served in a handcarved wooden bowl. Sweet & juicy, too fruity for my taste in frags.

Theorema by Fendi

Discontinued? Has the perfume world gone mad? This is truly one of the most luxurious, well crafted fragrances ever to grace my pulse points. Theorema is a spicy oriental of classic composition possessing a sweet & creamy character in a "Luten-esque" sort of way. I smell nutmeg and cardamom for sure, along with cinnamon. Orange blossom and most likely some carnation - I get a 'clove' vibe here. Not too strong, but evident. Ambery woods and some patchouli in the base. This mixture is so rich and well crafted there are probably a dozen other notes living here that I cannot discern. It is my opinion that fans of Coco by Chanel, Opium by YSL, or even (possibly) Musc Ravageur under the Frederic Malle label would take kindly to this gorgeous perfume. Thumbs up, now I'm off to find a bottle...

Sage by Sage Machado

Cucumber, Sage, floral and musk...a little tonka in the base. Sage is a scent that is true to its' note pyramid! It smells exactly as it is written - I love that! Bright in character too, I can see why this is popular, it is fun to wear! Would make a good energizing masculine fragrance as well!

Dark Rose by Czech & Speake

I would call this 'Medium Oud Rose'! It is not to my liking, but a worthy composition nonetheless. Buffalo_Gals' commentary has captured my feelings on this one perfectly. BTW ~ the best part of this frag is the dry down...it's stunning!

5:40 pm in Madagascar by Kenzo

I truly don't believe this scent is marketed strictly as masculine, but if it is, don't let the gender designation stop any of you from trying this travel exclusive from Kenzo. I own 7:15 a.m. in Bali, which was the travel exclusive from 2008, and the basic breezy vacation formula found in 5:40 p.m. in Madagascar is just the same! In Bali the defining notes are brighter, with orchid & citrus accompanying a slight vanilla. In Madagascar we're talkin' more definite vanilla, the kind that smells like vanilla extract - a little bourbon-ish, and some tonka thrown in for good measure! Wears lightly, like air - light and very wearable!

Acqua di Giò by Giorgio Armani

Acqua di Gio is the embodiment of "fruity floral". If you are unsure about this genre', in any way, shape, or form, merely sample this fragrance and the definition will instantly clarify! Sure, there are plenty others - good ones too - but this one is the queen. The fruits smell full, ripe and heavy with juices, like during the peak of their growing season. The springtime bouquet of flowers are well blended, added with the most discerning touch. This combination sings in the highest octave, and sustains in upper register for the duration. I've read alot of praises for Estee Lauders (Calice Becker) creation Beyond Paradise, but that mixture is so intense my nose can't take more than an hour of smelling before it wears tired. Acqua di Gio is much friendlier to my senses, and I love for it to last the day! This fruity floral is an under-rated, under-appreciated treasure. Two thumbs, way up!

Lily of the Valley by Floris

Firstly, I'm no huge fan of Lily of the Valley soliflores. Now that's out of the way, I'm not loving this Floris rendition either. It reminds me of when I was a little girl, in the mid to late 1960's. There were these tiny dolls called "Lil Kiddles". A series of them came packaged inside cute plastic perfume bottle pods, and the dolls were flower scented. The one I had smelled just like Floris Lily of the Valley. For a 5 year olds' little toy doll, it was a fun scent. For a grown womans perfume, not so pleasant.

Madonna Lily by Ava Luxe

Just when I thought Donna Karans GOLD possessed the biggest & boldest lily...here comes the queen giant of all lily's - from Ava Luxe! Beautiful!

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