Aria di Capri by Carthusia

I can't detect peach (but then I can't detect it in Mitsouko) nor do I miss it. It's a rather feminine fragrance, and yes, it has a vintage aldehydic feel. For me, it's too powdery in the beginning, but it is lovely when it settles down - and just very well done.

Io Capri by Carthusia

I have a general sympathy for the brand (I hope that's not just due to nostalgic holiday memories from Southern Italy but to the mix of tradition and quality), anyway, I prefer it to the omnipresent Acqua di Parma line. Of course, the Carthusia scents want to be, in the first place, debonair and pleasing, but they do take some risks, and "Io Capri" is an example for it. Sweetly fresh, cool and minty, and in the same time, there is a little barb - some herbaceous and even metallic bitterness. For hot summers, I personally prefer the somewhat "warmer" grassy (even if more linear) "Herba fresca" by Guerlain, but I appreciate the complexity of "Io Capri".

Chance Eau Fraîche by Chanel

Phew, what a pungent, chemical and trashy brew…
What has become of Chanel?

Après L'Ondée Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

Much has been said about Après L'Ondée and its aura of melancholy etc. I wanted to discover it, too, and have been trying it several times, but I'm afraid, all I get is a nice, sweet, gently and somewhat boring scent, and that's it. No rain, no fresh dew... Maybe it's an issue of skin chemistry. As for its kinship with L'Heure bleue, it has nothing of HB's personality, complexity and unmistakeable charm, so ALO has clearly to surrender.

Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia by Guerlain

With the mentioned ingredients, you expect a heavy, headachy scent, but it is not. It's sunny, sweet and flowery, with a moderate sillage. A fine fragrance for a certain mood - of summer and lightness.

Eau Radieuse by Humiecki & Graef

Right, this ist not mint, it's really menthol. Usually I don't like menthol but thus combined with citrus and green banana it's a fresh fruity scent that just cheers you up. Maybe in the meantime I am positively prejudiced toward H & G fragrances but I can't find it too weird or even shocking. I think it's absolutely wearable. I tested it first time in winter and strangely enough that worked, too. Of course, it's rather supposed to refresh you in summer, but it can just as well banish you winter tiredness. – Nothing against. Just try.

Oeillet Louis XV (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

First comes the carnation note as in the famous soap by Roger & Gallet, then a whole bunch of roses – and that's why I nearly gave it a poorer rating, since I am not into rose perfume, but I admit this composition is of high quality, with a sour, lemony rose, and then the carnation returns (supported by clove) to leave behind a lovely soft-spicy skinny veil.
If you are looking for a classy carnation fragrance, try this.

Eau de Vetyver by L'Occitane

How did it come “Eau de Vetyver” (this is actually the correct name) became a dear daily routine and made me neglect other scents? The very natural freshness-radiating woodiness, I guess, has just an uplifting effect on me, specially in the morning. Some describe its character as “dark”, but I can't affirm it. As for me, it shimmers between light green and honey.

Candour by Humiecki & Graef

I can't stop testing H&G scents. And I've learned to observe two rules: Don't judge them on first sniff. And don't test them on paper, only on skin. It's quite the first time I can appreciate fragrances I immediately perceive as synthetical, if not chemical.
In a sense, they all are related. “Skarb” is related with “Bosque” is related with “Eau radieuse” ist related with “Askew” … The H&G crew renounces deliberately to establish a “pyramid”, which is a smart move, but even so don't trust the alleged fragrance notes: There is undeniably cardamom with “Skarb” although it's not indicated, but instead with “Askew”. In “Askew” again, you will find a heavy dose of cinnamon, even if not listed.
I am almost unable to interpret either of these scents – what they have all in common is a most artificial way of representing some well familiar natural substances.
The strangest for me so far has been “Candour” which I can only describe as: ‘grassy green, metallic and sweetly milky'.
(In this case, my favourable rating ist not for wearibility, but for inventiveness.)

Corallium by Carthusia

On first sniff nothing special – a pleasant summer EdT. But it reveals to be very well composed. Crisp, spicy and citrussy without being a typical citrus, because the “agrumi” are soon backed by myrrh and sage which gives it a special note.
The sillage ist not very strong, but longevity is great for this kind of scent.

Les Maitresses de Louis XIV / The Mistresses of Louis XIV by Romea d'Ameor

Very nice. The focus is, in a neat way, on the lily (of the valley) theme. Classically feminine, yet with some understatement. A lovely spring scent.

Gelsomino Nobile by Acqua di Parma

To my nose, the combination of the ingredients smells like pear. As I am not very much into fruity scents and this one, moreover, seems somewhat chemical, it's rather disappointing. For some it will be a ladylike scent, but this jasmine is surely not “nobile”.

Coquelicot by Il Profumo

Give this a second chance. My first impression, too, was: a fresh-fruity shampoo – so what?
But there is more to it. Maybe it's this kind of poppy (and culinarily I adore poppy-seed), in any case the scent has something calm, intimate and amicable that ist very pleasant and makes it a feelgood-fragrance. (This feelgood factor is similar as in “Bosque”, even though different.)

Bosque by Humiecki & Graef

‘Bosque' made me ruminate. In the first place it seems to me not very natural but rather synthetical – nevertheless, I am intrigued with it... There is something shrewd. The only thing that reminds me of a forest (the spanish ‘bosque') is the strong scent of master of the woods, or woodruff. And than there is an appeal of Amaretto! So, woodruff and amaretto - what a strange concoction…
At the same time it smells like the skin of a familiar person coming out of the cold.
You get actually a certain freshness throughout its lasting power.

Very special, very interesting, and that's why I am giving it a thumbs up.

1725 Casanova by Histoires de Parfums

Smart scent of subtle sweetness.

The previous review says it's not a macho scent - that's absolutely right in the sense that 18th century masculinity has some feminine attributes (frills, powder etc.) - and why not admit it?
(It certainly smells good on both men and women.)
Most of all, I get the citrus-vanilla-anise-almond combination, but (luckily) I would not call it a gourmand - it's far too elegant for that (maybe the lavender did this?).
Historical inspiration realised in a modern way? I don't think so - this is not a "modern" fragrance, and I guess that's why I like it.
You can amplify longevity if you spray it on fabric.

So good.

Bottega Veneta by Bottega Veneta

I like this one very much. Very subtle, elegant - the scent of a Lady, fresh, powdery, creamy, and all with understatement. As for the flowers, I am not sure if I smell violet or even lilac, in any case I am not getting the jasmine. What I surely get is a really soft, mellow leather (maybe kidskin), together with a note of dextrose...
Fine stuff.

Hoggar by Yves Rocher

I smell cardamum, cardamum, cardamum ... If you love this spice like I do, it is a very fine, pleasant scent (and - why not - suits well for women, too.)

Aqua Allegoria Jasminora by Guerlain

Now that it seems to get out of production, I have to take a stand for Jasminora.
I was quite suspicious of the Allegoria series, by its sheer multitude which appears somewhat arbitrary. But this really is a beautyful, fresh white blossoms scent. Some say what you primarily smell is freesia and not jasmine - I can't decide this, but I definitely appreciate that there is no heavy sweetness often related to jasmine. It's a very lovely spring scent, I even dare to say it reminds me of Diorissimo - without its compelling melancholy -, Jasminora is cleaner, brighter, with a certain citrus association, and therefore it suits well for hot summer days, too.
So far my recommendation - as long as it's available ...

Love, Chloé by Chloé

It may sound weird but I really like the 'Love, Chloé' Body Lotion - whereas the EdP itself is much too strong and headachy for me.
Warm (I smell a touch of cinnamon), old-fashioned in a mignonne way, this scent embodies perfectly the notion of the word "Boudoir" - you feel like wrapped in a sweet, velvety, nostalgic talcum powder (which I would never use).

A Scent by Issey Miyake

For me, it is just like a fresh, classic Cologne - not bad, but nothing much more. Maybe, I would prefer it on a man.
A fragrance of this kind I find more inventive and charming, is "Purple water" by Asprey.

L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

As I am always looking for fresh, unobtrusive fragrances, this one appeals to me by its fine, elegant freshness. It is sweet, but in a very subtle, delicate way. It reminds me more of a pleasant summer morning than of winter time. After a while, from the sweetness remains something like a light vanilla or caramel note - it is probably the honey.
However, the scent lasts on me only a short time or iin a too fable way, and I'am afraid my partner doesn't smell it at all...

Eau de Givenchy (original) by Givenchy

Fruity, grassy, flowery - this is my all-time favorite spring scent and it suits all the same on the first hot days of early summer. Just refreshing and reviving the spirits. I guess, it has no great seductive impact on others, it is just a cheerful ambiance for ME ....

Diorissimo Eau de Toilette by Christian Dior

I owned and used a little sample bottle of Diorissimo (the vintage version) when, being a young girl, I spent a week or two in Paris. Afterwards this scent remained for me a memory both exhilarating and melancholic of spring in Paris. I still adore this fragrance.
But it seems to me, that when the flowering time of muguet has passed, the parfume somehow doesn't fit the rest of the year, and that's why I still have been hesitating to buy it. (And also because I don't want to lose by long-term use this Paris connotation...)
But I am happy to hear so many reviewers can appreciate this really lovely, classic scent.

Givenchy III by Givenchy

My grandmother was wearing Givenchy III, even in her eighties - what has nothing dissuading for me, since she was an elegant and self-assured person, and in fact, after her death, I "inherited" the perfume from her and really liked it, even if, at that time, I was maybe a little too young for its slightly austere elegance.
Subsequently I have been missing it in the perfumer's shops, and it is difficult to find comparable fragrances as fresh and sophisticated. So I am pleased to hear there is a re-issue. I will try and recover somewhere the scent...

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