Scent Detective

Silver by Clandestine Laboratories

I agree with both @brooksotterlake and @varanisridari. Silver is an absolutely beautiful fragrance that is both unexpected in its brilliance, and also one of the best fragrances to come out of the indie fragrance scene.

There are so many things I really love about this fragrance. It is like sheer liquid windows of mint, lavender, and a slightly smokey amber presence that makes me want to shower in the stuff. It lifts my spirits and I feel like I smell really good when I wear it as well. It is refreshing but also smells refined...like silver.

Silver is a fragrance that smells as great with a tux on as it does when you're in a t-shirt and blue jeans. Extremely versatile.

Two thumbs way up from me for this wonderful fragrance!


Distiller's Blend / Reserve Blend by Cremo

I originally bought the body wash and loved the smell, so I bought the fragrance as well and unfortunately as is the case many times with body washes and perfumes of the same name...(I'm looking at you Pino Sylvestre), the body wash smells infinitely better.

This perfume smells overly synthetic with a sweetness that is cloying to me. It does last, that's for sure, but it beats my nose to a pulp in the process and I have to throw up the white flag and scrub it off.

The body wash by contrast smells like a whiskey that's been aged in an oak cask...why couldn't they have just reproduced that smell with the fragrance? It makes no sense. Thumbs up for the body wash and way down for the fragrance.


Roman Fruit Sellers by D.S. & Durga

Roman Fruit Sellers is a miss from D.S. & Durga...a house that I love many works from. This particular fragrance smells more like aroma chemicals than any other DS&D fragrance I've tried. There is a soft melange of fruitiness in the opening without being able to identify the listed fruits individually, at least not for me. This is mixed with a chemical smell. Then, there is a slightly synthetic woodiness in the dry down...and that's it. I was very excited by the marketing for this one and if it would have smelled like it was described, I would be a big fan, but unfortunately it smells nothing like that to me. If you can sample it then you could see what you think, but if not as I mentioned, this one is a safe miss, IMO.


Fleurs Sauvages by TRNP (Teone Reinthal Natural Perfume)

What a beautiful green floral this is! The honeysuckle and immortelle sweeten the lavender without removing its prickly green wisp. The immortelle also brings a slight hay like quality to help balance the sweet honeysuckle and the honey like side of the immortelle. I'm not familiar with the smell of blue tansy, but I can also smell the ambrette as this drys down. The opening is my favorite part by far, but the whole wear is very enjoyable and makes me feel like I'm walking through wildflowers on an alpine meadow, just as Teone wanted it to. Excellent work here by Dr. Reinthal!


Mega Flora by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

I really enjoy Mega Flora by PAA. If there was one nit pick, it would be that I wish the floral presence was more subdued as it overpowers the fougere aspects of the fragrance until the dry down. My wife thinks the floral aspects of Mega Flora smells like funeral flowers, so there is that. When this fragrance drys down for a few hours it really is a wonderful fougere type fragrance. You can get samples for cheap from PAA, so this might be one to sample before buying.


Atomic Pumpkin by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

I really enjoy Atomic Pumpkin by PAA! It is a wonderful autumn fragrance that makes me feel excited for the fall season as the weather starts to change, the, leaves change, the harvest comes on complete with pumpkins, Halloween, Thanksgiving, etc. Yeah, this fragrance is a highly enjoyable fall celebration in a bottle...super nice!


Blue Samhain by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Gah...this one will choke you out if you apply more than one very small spray. And, even at that, it is so sweet it makes me slightly sick even with a small spray. The "burnt sugar" accord overpowers everything and makes it sadly, unwearable for me.


Clown Fruit by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

I liked the idea behind this one of the absinthe note aged in an oak barrel cask, but the actual aftershave smells like dryer sheets aged in an oak barrel. Not a pleasant scent on my skin...unfortunately.


Space Nog by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Not a fan of this one. I do like several PAA aftershaves and EDP's, but this one is a miss for me. The egg nog accord isn't one I want to wear. I only bought the aftershave and I just won't wear it because of the way it smells on my skin.


Wendover by Clandestine Laboratories

Wendover is a brilliant, "slight" waft of coal/mineralic smoke mixed with a green freshness that smells of a beautiful misty spring day walking along the hedgerows of the midlands of England. These hedgerows are situated outside of town, along a country stretch of road where you can see green fields and small rolling hills. The coal smoke of the nearby town has slightly mingled with the dewey grass and plant life, creating a freshness that is also grounded and slightly earthy in the best way possible. I honestly really love Wendover and appreciate Mark Sage's creativity and vision with this fragrance, as he really has achieved his desired scent profile, IMHO.

Wendover is very comforting to me as it takes me back to a time when I lived in the very area that this fragrance is attempting to conjure through scent. A marvelous job by Mr. Sage, and a fragrance that is not to be missed, again, in my opinion. Take some "Sage" advice from me...(Sorry Mark, I can't miss an opportunity for some word play), and at the very least get a sample of Wendover. If you love green fragrances, fresh fragrances, and mineralic fragrances, I think you'll find something to love in Wendover too! Two thumbs way up!


Woodland Pine by Dr. Squatch

I haven’t tried this yet, but being a Conehead I’m always confused when I see a fragrance named Woodland Pine that haze zero pine listed in the notes of the fragrance.😑

Now, granted, there is cypress listed in the notes which may make this worth sampling, but why not call it Woodland Cypress instead? Baffling, and it happens all the time. Anyway, neutral rating until I actually smell it.


Sexy Viking by D.S. & Durga

I like this fragrance, but it's very one dimensional to my nose...maybe two dimensional as the drydown changes slightly, but not as much as I'd like.

This starts with black currant, and I love black currant, so that's why I like this fragrance...but it also smells mainly like black currant throughout the whole wear and I was so hoping to be able to smell the many marvelous listed notes like the bitter orange, the pine, the juniper, the barley and the wheat, etc. All these notes should be smelled to create the image that DSM is attempting to convey in the description of this fragrance and I personally don't feel that it achieves that as it's too one dimensional in my opinion. I have noticed just a slight hint of a grain presence in the far drydown and that's why I mentioned that it might have a "slight" two dimensionality about it...but it is far to faint for my taste. I want to smell the listed note transitions throughout the wear as the sales pitch for Sexy Viking was so interesting and intriguing. I'm hoping some of the other notes will intensify in time as this fragrance ages, but of course there's no way of knowing if that will happen. Time will tell.


The Absinthe Drinkers (Heirloom Elixir No. 23) by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

I love Absinthe themed fragrances and have several. I was hoping that The Absinthe Drinkers would be a worthy addition to my collection, but I must say that this perfume is more floral than it is absinthe based to my nose.

There is a slight absinthe in the very opening, but that fades quickly and is replaced by a very light floral aura that stays for the rest of the wear. I applied it in the morning and it lasted for around 10 hours, but it was mostly a skin scent during that time. I would say it had very slight projection for about the first hour and then became a skin scent that required putting nose to wrist to detect after that. Some people prefer their fragrance to project that way and if you are a minimalist with regards to projection and like light easy to wear florals with a hint of green then you should at least check this one out.

The main player for me was a lily of the valley presence with the initial absinthe note, slight aldehydes, light citrus, and a very, very slight green presence, perhaps from galbanum, but not pronounced in any way.

I'm going to wear this again and see if anything else stands out, but for now, this isn't a perfume that I will be pursuing further.


Sugar Plums {Holiday no.22} by DSH Perfumes

I love the smells of the holidays and was hoping this fragrance would have a wonderful holiday presence. Well, the problem I'm having so far is that it barely has any presence at all...I can hardly even smell it. In saying this, I am applying from a small dabber sample, so that does need to be taken into consideration, but this is either so diluted as to be virtually impossible to smell, or it is just not a very strong fragrance, or I'm anosmic to it, which would be sad as I wanted to love this one.

Upon application to skin I smelled a very faint sweet cinnamon and fruit wisp...but that was it. I really can't report anything beyond that as I lost any semblance of the fragrance after that initial wispy, "one and done" waft. I used half of the sample to see if I could amp it up any but without success. I also moisturized my skin this morning before applying because I could tell it was not a projecting fragrance when I received it and applied a very small dab to the side of my finger.

I was going to give this a neutral rating because the slight hint of a smell was nice, but I don't think I can do that because as a fragrance, this has completely failed...at least on my skin. It's like the old saying, "If a tree falls in the forest and no one is there to hear it, does it make a sound"? Wouldn't the same principle apply here? "If a fragrance is applied and no one can smell it, is it really a fragrance"? Food for thought.


Orpheus by Clandestine Laboratories

Orpheus by Clandestine Laboratories is a wonderful perfume that's overall effect reminds me of a spicy amber rose fragrance...but wrist to nose reveals much more than that going on. As mentioned below by Brooks Otterlake, there is a bright but more subdued citrus element that is like a toned down version of the citrus in Madrid by CL. I'm really enjoying that citrus element a lot in today's wearing on Orpheus as it brings a brightness to the boozy amber feeling it conveys. There are also spices that dance and peek through the booziness in a very pleasing way. I'm thinking the incense mixed with the hawthorne which brings a spicy almond aura, along with the tobacco, is creating this wonderful spiced infusion that to me dances through and around this fragrance. I really enjoy Orpheus. It reminds me of some of Russian Adams work in some ways. I would say that Orpheus is more sheer or transparent...like stained glass as opposed to RA's work which is generally thicker feeling, like a solid wall. This does not mean that Orpheus dosent' have sillage and longevity, because it definitely does. It lasts for 10 - 12 hours on my skin. As mentioned, Orpheus is a wonderful fragrance...two thumbs up!


White Fir by Pineward Perfumes

White Fir is a brilliant take on the needle resin of the White Fir tree. It has strong nuances of orange/citrus mixed with the smell of coniferous resin, some ginger, and vetiver are what I smell the most prominently. This is a glorious fragrance that makes my heart sing! A true jewel for a Conehead like me! Thanks so much Pineward Fragrances for creating another fragrance that is a "10"!!!


Bitter Sweet by TRNP (Teone Reinthal Natural Perfume)

I decided to wear Bitter Sweet by TRNP today as its been a while since I smelled it. I waited so my first impression could be uninfluenced by previous wears.

Right off the bat I had a scent memory when I sprayed Bitter Sweet on skin today. I was transported back to the old drug store on main street where I used to go as often as I had some money to buy comic books that were displayed on the old wire spindle racks. It was a wonderful time to be a kid. Can I just say that the experience today literally was, "bitter sweet", so the name of this fragrance is completely appropriate.

The smell of coffee brewing in a glass coffee pot, mixed with the smell of candy on the shelves of the store along with a very slight medicinal vibe. It was just uncanny how I literally felt like I was walking into that old drug store as a 10 year old kid again. Almost brought a tear to my eye. Not sure I'll ever do full wears of this fragrance as it's more of an experience for me than it is a fragrance I want to hose myself down in, but I'll definitely be visiting many more times to experience that bitter sweet feeling once again.


Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir

I get a lot of iris and galbanum with a hint of angelica. And, of course a slight smokiness which seems to be in virtually all Naomi Goodsir fragrances. I like it.


Pastoral by Pineward Perfumes

Ahh...my new favorite fall fragrance! I'm overjoyed to have Pastoral in my collection. It is soooo comforting! I love the progression of this warm, autumn themed fragrance with a huge love! Sweet jammy preserves with warm pastry and spices. Honey and grains with propolis to bind all the warm yumminess together! Pastoral is a total joy to wear for me personally. I'm excited to wear the heck out of it over the next few months. Another home run from the house of Pineward Perfumes IMO. WHOOOO!!!! I smell good! LOL...


Ponderosa by Pineward Perfumes

I'm honored to be the first to review this very special fragrance that was also created by a very dear friend of mine. Ponderosa is my new favorite fragrance and that is saying something as I have many fragrances that I dearly love.

The opening of this treasure is ponderosa pine resin in all it's brilliant glory. Coniferous and beautiful. There is also an almost pine nut note lingering that lasts further into the wear as well that I love. The vanillic sweetness along with the butterscotch and cinnamon might make Ponderosa sound interesting to some, but the blending here is impeccable and makes the fragrance as a whole work on every level for me personally. I am first and foremost a conifer fan. Fir, Spruce, Pine, Cypress, Cedar, Juniper, etc. are where it's at in my wheelhouse and Ponderosa delivers big time. BUT, I also love some gourmands. Ponderosa has some sweetness like a gourmand, but it doesn't delve into complete gourmand territory and I believe the sweetness is perfectly executed in this composition. It's purpose is to create the sweet nature of ponderosa pine resin while also making this an actual perfume and not just a ponderosa pine essential oil. No, this is a full on, perfume, and what an amazing journey it takes you on. If you are familiar with the beautiful ponderosa pine resin then you know what this smells like, only Ponderosa the perfume smells even better. It is the surrealistic ponderosa pine scent of the perfect dream.

If you love coniferous notes and also love good perfumery, then Ponderosa by Pineward Perfumes is worth at least a sample. Perhaps you'll love it as much as I do. So very grateful to have this heavenly fragrance in my collection! Bravisimo Nick!!!


Oud Fougère by Agar Aura

Surprised I'm the first one to share some thoughts on Oud Foguere. Smells like burning oud wood through the whole wear. That is the main focus and aura in the opening to my nose. When the fougere elements begin to show through, they are extremely enjoyable, but they are literally peeking through a huge cloud of burning smokey oud. Over time the fougere freshness becomes more apparent, but the smokiness never leaves... interesting fragrance. I'm not a huge fan of really heavy burnt smells which I feel this fragrance has, so I generally need a sweet note like a berry or certain florals to help me through the burning stuff. I really do love the fougere elements in Oud Fougere, but as they are only a part of the whole experience I probably wouldn't buy a FB because of the domination of the smokey notes. Still this is obviously a very well made fragrance with a lot of upside for those who enjoy the smokey oud wood notes along with a fresh crispness from the fougere elements.


Bois d'Ascèse by Naomi Goodsir

Starts out pretty smokey, but morphs into an amazing incense and amber fragrance that is warm and inviting in all the best ways. The slightest boozy note comes through in that warm amber along with a hint of tobacco leaf. I'm not a fan of smokey fragrances per se, but I definitely am of this one. Classy and cosy...an excellent combination right there. FB worthy for sure in my book.


Homme Nature by Yves Rocher

Ahh…Nature. This is what nature would smell like…if it was created in a test tube.

Unfortunately this smells like a thousand other nameless designer fragrances that I’ve smelled over the years. Very synthetic. I was hoping for a nice blast of cucumber and mint, but I think what I’m smelling for the most part is a healthy dose of sage drowning in a sea of chemicals. Smells synthetic and musty to the point of unpleasantness. Afraid I’m going to have to scrub it off and come up for air. Too overwhelming to enjoy for me. I had hopes based on the perfumer, but this one’s a miss for me.


Sleight of Fern by Masque

Initial impressions of Sleight of Fern by Masque Milano. Opens with a candy fizziness. Smells wonderful. The fig sap must be sweetening the bergamot and lavender because the citrus smells a little sweeter than normal, but in a good way and the lavender brings it's herbaceous floral presence into the mix, which is a wonderful thing indeed. After the first few minutes, a leathery accord begins to appear. I prefer the opening phase, but this still smells very nice. The leather like accord definitely features the thyme note to my nose. Looking forward to the progression of this one...

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