Vetiver Veritas by Heeley

It's an excellent smoky vetiver, dark, earthy, rooty, soily. I love the smell, but I get pure vetiver oil which I have and it costed me 10 Euro. I have diluted the oil in ethanol and it smells almost identical; I can wear it instead without any problem when I need a pure vetiver. Vetiver Veritas is too true to the vetiver oil to be sold at this price and I don't get other notes which might steer it in a more perfume territory or make it more interesting than the pure oil.

Douleur! by Bogue Profumo

I was reading some reviews and I approached Douleur with fear. I have forgotten what I've read about it, just remembering that it is challenging. At first there was a wave of sweetness and I thought ok, it's very sweet but nothing bad or challenging; that lasted the first 5 seconds until I started to get a salty fishy note. Diving in more with my nose into the skin, I'm not sure if I get a plastic or a metallic note, or maybe both. Now I think that the fishy smell might just be metallic and some plastic rose appeared; it's all very confusing, very sweet and very synthetic smelling and nuclear. I have a desire to go wash it off (which happens very rarely) but I'd like to see what happens next, because it's the first and last time I'll wear it. After the first hour, the metallic note is so pungent that it makes my nose hurt and I can almost feel the overly sweet metallic taste in my through. At this point I think I'm getting a headache and nausea…which almost never happens because a perfume. And I'm off to wash my hand. Of course the smell is there, but at least most of the metallic is gone and it's a sweet cloud of fuzzy rose, still very bad.
If this is art, I'm ok with me not being able to appreciate it. I think it's just a synthetic mess which smells bad. I can appreciate a good well done perfume even if it's not my taste, but this one…horror. Maybe this is the smell of zombies from The Walking Dead. I usually don't like mainstream generic perfume, but in this case I'd rather smell some Bleu de Chanel right now to calm myself.

Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

It's a dark red rose, opulent, thick with earthy and musky elements. There is a very nice dry red wine accord that will linger for a good while; it's a beautiful aroma, not boozy and it's combined with a sweet saffron and vanilla combo that is really nice. I can't wear it whenever, I feel I need an occasion for it because of its richness and opulence. It's also sensual, elegant and mature with a fleshy dry down. It's very good!

Pegaso by Etro

The first whiff bought a smile to my face; it's been done before in the modern eau de colognes, but it's a very pleasant combination of citrus flower, fruit and leaf. It evokes a chilled summer day.
The pepper brings spice to the combination and the cedar a woody structure. And a surprising balsamic texture to round up the composition after the first hour, which is when the fragrance starts to soften and melt into the skin.

Aqua Vitae by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

What starts with bitter citrus turns rapidly very sweet with vanilla and tonka, still maintaining a bit of the freshness from the opening. There is something dirty and floral, like jasmine, but at the same time the combination starts to feel synthetic. It doesn't do much for me, it's average at best.

Energizer by Boadicea the Victorious

Opens very fresh, zesty and sweet. The grapefruit is leading but there is a whole lot of citrus goodness radiating off the skin. A base composed of vetiver and white musk is enveloping the citruses, creating an aromatic aroma. It's a nice energizing perfume.

Eau de Minthé Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

It has an air of a fougere fragrance. It's fresh, green and has a definite minty accord which to me smells like a combination of fresh mint, geranium and lavender. In the drydown the patchouli adds some weight and becomes more aromatic, but other than this, it's pretty much the same smell.

Mont de Narcisse by L'Artisan Parfumeur

It opens like the smell of a dusty piece of old leather bag that has been kept next to a bouquet of dried white flowers. Its boozy accord from the dried plums and vanilla works well with the dusty leather and there is a mentholated aroma from the lavender. The dry down doesn't change that much, it's the same dusty leather with fruity plums and osmanthus sweeten by vanilla. It reminds me of Gold Leather by Atelier Cologne.

Light my Fire by By Kilian

After a bold opening with a sweet tobacco, honey, light smoke and sort of a boozy aroma, it calms pretty quickly. The tobacco is very nicely done and it plays well with the woody green patchouli and vetiver. It's a comforting scent and will stay mostly linear and barely lingering above the skin ending in honied tobacco with dried hay.

Single Malt by By Kilian

Boozy at first, earthy and fruity (dried plums), sweet. I am not much of a whiskey drinker, but the aroma is there and I'd say more like one of those whiskey's that are blended with honey/vanilla. Immediately it starts to feel balmy, while maintaining the booze. The vanilla is becoming prominent in the dry down and the plum is still there, the booze is gone; now more resinous and woody.

Hayat by Al Kimiya

The lavender and patchouli create an earthy minty aroma at first and then the lavender is more aromatic, especially since it's blended with cardamom and cinnamon. Then there is the bitter smoky part made by cypriol and Oud. The dry down is pretty linear and mostly smoky and woody.

Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé by Hermès

To me, this perfume is meditative in a way; it's very calm, buttery smooth, very pleasant. There are no sharp edges, every note melts into a plush white cloud near a rainbow. It's not an iris soliflore like the name could suggest, but it is a definite floral. It smells like lily of the valley, grass, mandarin, orange flower, roses and peaches. It's not rooty or powdery but it has a pale lipstick kind of vibe if I'm thinking hard. It's not common at all, although it might sound from the notes; it has such an interesting and intriguing smell, it's gorgeous!

Armani Eau pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

At first sniff, I am bombarded with waves of lemons which feel very juicy and sharp. It has that old school vibe of a men's cologne with added spices, minty lavender and oakmoss. It feels natural and very gentleman like. The dry down is more woody, which I like.

Mandarina Corsica by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I smelled the creamy desert from the first whiff. It's very sweet, candy-like, with loads of syrupy immortelle, tonka and bitter mandarin. It does not really evolve in something else, it remains mostly the same, sweet and bitter with mandarin and almond nuances.

Duel by Annick Goutal

Green tea with lemon that at a first sniff feels simple, but when analyzed a bit, I can say that it's not just a straightforward lemon green tea. The notes are very well blended, it is transparent, fresh, elegant and very pretty. It's a quiet scent, though addictive to me. Petitgrain and a faint leather accord in the background from the mate with a crystallized sugary note in the drydown.

Horizon (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

From the opening it's clear this is going to be a dominant patchouli perfume. To the chocolate-like patchouli, in the beginning there is a healthy dose of cognac, sweet vanilla and bitter orange for a touch of light in this dark, damp perfume. The dry down is syrupy and thick with added tobacco leaves and a subtle leather with a sensual aspect, all this combined with the bitter cocoa and patchouli, off course.

Intoxicated by By Kilian

It reminds me of two things: the spices I use when I make boiled wine for one side and A*MEN for the other side. I can smell a faint coffee note, which is a weird combination when I'm thinking of all those wine spices. I guess it smells pretty from the trail it leaves, but up close it's a bit of a strange mix.

Musc Impérial by Atelier Cologne

Fruity and fresh with fig leaf milky tones, no traces of musc.

Agar Musk by Ramon Monegal

A blast of bitter medicinal oud with pepper, nutmeg and vetiver. Non sweet, dark and slightly green, slightly leathery. A berry accord comes through. Dries down to a spicy-aromatic wood.

White Suede by Tom Ford

Smooth floral leather, very elegant. The muguet in the beginning is a really nice addition to the leather (which is the same leather as in Tuscan Leather, just a polite and airier version). I can get the rose and sandalwood that, together with the musk, create a soft and plush leather.

Eau de Soleil Blanc by Tom Ford

Creamy and floral, it has the sun cream vibe which is done nicely if this what you're after.

Velvet Desert Oud by Dolce & Gabbana

It starts of as a dusty, fruity, polished leather. Yes, it did remind me a bit of Tuscan Leather. The blend seems simple, there is not much else going on and it's a pleasant smell. After a couple of hours I am starting to smell a very tame and polite oud note, without changing the smell path it's on. Nice smell overall, but not the highest level of blend/ingredients as the line implies.

Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The opening is very nice with juicy bitter orange that is paired with cumin and green notes. It goes to the classic eau de cologne style, but smelling contemporary, not dated. The smell is very satisfying but surely the cheaper alternatives like Hermes as just as good.

Rêve d'Ossian (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

The first sniff takes me to church with the bold, although fresh, frankincense; I wasn't expecting that. After one minute it has already settled a bit and the initial frankincense blast is paired with green nuances of pine and aldehydes together with resins and spices. The projection drops after the first minutes, making it light and airy. After about one hour it envelopes the skin with warmth and that's how it stays from now forward. It reminds me of winter holydays, due to the pine and incense combo. It stayed for a long time on the skin, but very quiet like a comforting blanket.

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