michailG

Naïviris by Pierre Guillaume

A nice perfumo.net member sent me a sample of this perfume which I wouldn't try otherwise. It's a very sweet "old fashion" perfume that reminded me of super lush 80s offerings. I was wondering who would like AND wear this nowadays. Its silage is above average and longevity is even higher but not in the region of 12 hours which I honestly thought it would be. This all means that Naiviris is intrusive and since I don't think it's a crowd pleaser... you see my hesitation? It is a heady floral with some acrid accord that comes and goes. There is a kind of fecundity as well but to my nose it all boils down to an overly sweet dry down that is however kind of powdery ... a bit dry. I didn't know the notes so what I describe is my impressions which will probably be different from yours. Suffice to say that at instances I would get whiffs and together the urge to go wash it off but then I would inhale deeper and find that it was not that bad. So my conclusion is that this is an odd ball and a blast from the past and I am glad it exists but I wouldn't expect many "contemporary" people to appreciate whatever is there to be appreciated in this. The image in my mind that Naiviris created was of an early 80s person in an YSL outfit and red lipstick with heavy Paloma Picasso jewelry... or then a velvet-clad wildly rich bohemian ... but no, I wouldn't describe this as a byzantine fragrance although it seems like it was meant to be one ... go figure!


Sublime Balkiss by The Different Company

If you like sweet rose as the protagonist, go for it. I am not so fond of this particular take on rose in SB. It is rather sweet even with the fruity-fresh undertone. SB does possess great silage and longevity. Overall, this is one of the less transparent more lush creations from the Different Company.


Citizen X by Ex Nihilo

I love this one. I purchased a sample that I am cherishing. The opening is fantastic but short lived. To me CX is an effervesced green with a fougere accord towards dry down that I am not totally crazy about, but still. My only complaint is its longevity. While Atlas Fever (which is too woody for me) is still detectable 24 hours after application, this one is not; and I wish it were.


Viper Green by Ex Nihilo

A beautiful green floral that is long lasting with moderate silage. It is not exceptional and there is nothing dangerous about it. On the opening a dry herbal and a bit resinous accord makes me thing of marijuana but this subsides within half an hour. Iris is distinguishable here and maybe also the vetiver, but all well-blended and subtle. This might be a compliment getter from women and I seriously doubt men will appreciate it on their mates. Too bad! I enjoyed my two samples to the dismay of my partner who found it too much like a mature-lady's perfume. In the last wearing, I remembered what it reminded me and maybe the reason I appreciated it! VG reminds me of The Different Company's Charmes & Feuilles that I used to have. So, thanks to VG I just snapped up a bottle of C&F that I spotted on ebay for a fraction of the Ex Nihilo creation. Longevity of the latter, however: more than 12 hours.


Hyde by Hiram Green

HYDE is hauntingly beautiful ... and hauntingly is the right word because it haunts ones attention for many hours, the wearer as well as the people around. The opening is too aggressive: burnt rubber, camp fire and some incense. As it mellows with time it becomes more and more agreeable and addictive. It is still camp fire and incense but sweeter and less burnt plastic. Hours later it's bright and shinning but the dangerous projection of the opening really calms down. It is the dry down that I love and which goes on and on... luckily. HYDE lingers on clothes for days, on the skin ... next day during shower I get strong marvelous wafts of it as warm water hits the skin. I tend to spray in the back of my neck and some goes to my hair. Shampooing it off the next morning is not easy! The only downside of HYDE is that it is not a crowd pleaser and this makes wearing it a bit of a conundrum. My partner doesn't like that it is so strong and overpowering so I don't wear it around him. But I do love the journey HYDE takes me. I purchased a sample from HG, I only apply two little sprays and that's enough for this masterpiece to dazzle me for the day. HYDE is dry and at times acrid so I see how many people won't be able to stand it. This is as far as niche perfumery can take you from a designer juice. Sample it... it's worth it.


Encens Jinhae by Atelier Cologne

Really. this is an obscure creation. The opening is pleasant with musk and citrus notes. Fresh and light. That phase lasts 20 minutes on my skin and indeed it requires heavy application. But then it fades into a white musk skin scent not too far from the one Body Shop used to sell in those tiny vials 20 or more years ago. Actually BS' s was I think better than this overpriced concoction... it was an oil after all. This is office safe as it's a skin scent for most of its life. Mind you it's not bad at all but surely a weak creation by AC. Some of you will enjoy it no matter what.


Dilettante by Hiram Green

I like this very much and I find it so disappointing that it lasts 3-4 hours maximum on my skin. I get heady jasmine and neroli ... and then all the rest. Either my skin "eats" this up, or my sample batch was weak. On the other hand it could also be that the lack of synthetic adhesives turns this otherworldly floral bomb into a children's firecracker. Still I find it compelling.


Eau de Campagne by Sisley

I tried this years ago and while I couldn't afford it, I liked it. I tried it again today. Although I can now afford it and the opening is as compelling as I remember it, the dry down is certainly not my favorite. EdC is decent in silage and longevity and quite an interesting green composition. But after extensive sniffing I have realized that oakmoss gives me a kind of headache. Mossy is true for EdC's dry down and therefore I regret to say this classic is not for me. But all considered this is remarkably classic and relevant. If you like green do try EdC.


Eau de Narcisse Bleu by Hermès

I am soon finishing my bottle of EdNB and I thought that it is about time to review it. Since I have kept wearing this although my partner cannot stand it (so I don't wear it around him) I must like it. It is true but not entirely. To me the initial blast is too much and I don't enjoy it but I find it inescapable to over-apply because otherwise EdNB just vanishes after a short time ... or I become anosmic to it. Nevertheless, I don't recommend using EdNB as a body mist as I have been doing. After an hour or two EdNB turns into a very soapy composition that reminds me of Eau de Neroli by Chloe which I owned and liked a few years ago. So, maybe in truth I don't really like EdNB but the interpretation to my nose and brain of a certain element that may not even exist in EdNB. Overall, it is for me a feel-good floral, certainly unisex, with a certain old-school vibe. Mr Elena's eaux for Hermes have been groundbreaking marketing but not olfactory-wise. This said, my favorites are still Eau de pamplemousse rose, and Eau d'orange verte.


Secrets d'Essences Accord Chic by Yves Rocher

Eau Chic is a decent fragrance. A bit old fashioned accord, so regardles of gender (I think it's unisex) many will find dated although a recent release. It is floral and linear, not very sweet and lasting. Moderate projection is a good thing here. Overall a cheaper alternative to various much more expensive chic perfumes out there that target younger audience. If you come across a small bottle give it a go.


Les Amoureux de Peynet by Molinard

A beautiful fresh floral with a very pleasant accord that will certainly surprise on men maybe more than on women. Longevity is moderate as is its projection; it's an eau de toillete after all. The development is nothing groundbreaking from fresh to floral to woody there is a transparency that is so enchanting. Way thumbs up!


Sel de Vétiver by The Different Company

I have tried SdV a few times now, last being yesterday. I persist doing so because of the overwelmingly positive reviews from revered basenoters. Right now I have the opportunity of purchacing it in a formidable price... however, I just don't like it enough. SdV is dry, it has a distinct mineral accord and indeed it is to me earthy more than anything else. It isn't giving me much pleasure wearing this fragrance. I am aware that vetiver is rooty but the combination with minerality here puts me off and I cannot discern other notes and enjoy SdV. So liking vetiver does not equal that one automatically likes even niche vetiver-centered fragrances. One think I can say confidently is that for vetiver lovers SdV is a must try.


Lalique White by Lalique

A scrubber like very few. What bothered me most is a masty accord that lasted and lasted. I washed two or three times and I can still smell the ... whatever musk and cedar and the rest of notes create that makes this so unpleasant for me. I am glad I tried White... I am not happy that it is so potent that I can't get rid off it from my wrist.


Armani Privé Vétiver Babylone by Giorgio Armani

I would have expected that all privé offerings were eau de parfum. But nope, Vétiver d' Hiver, as Vétiver Babylone is renamed, is an edt. Not that terrible, you will say. Well, let's move on the experience of VdH on my skin. It kicks off brilliantly with esperidic notes. These last for a couple of hours and are wonderfully green and yellow, and maybe the intensity I detect is due to some spiciness. Then VdH turns into an airy green citrus fragrance slowly fading away into a thin green accord. The overall development took on my skin maybe 4 hours, which is not bad. However, the dry down is a big let down. I can't overcome the thinness and commonplaceness of what is left of VdH. Now, I may be very wrong thinking that VdH would perform better if it was an edp, oilier and somehow deeper. In any case, for its retailing price VdH ought to perform much better. This is certainly not recommended for blind buying and even to frivolous perfume collectors I would suggest multiple testings. The neutral is because although the opening 2 hours of VdH are heaven, the dry down is truly uninspiring.


Close Your Eyes and... by Miller et Bertaux

This one is quite special! I purchased Close you eyes and... a few weeks ago but only today I gave it a full day wear. It is a rose centered perfume of pure beauty. The accord of the spicy rose that I still get five hours after application is just beautiful. I just close my eyes and go on this olfactory trip that at times seems almost religious. Is there incense here?! After 5+ hours the projection is minimal but I can still get wafts now and then. It is true, Close your eyes and... could have had better longevity but I don't complain because what I can still smell is divine.


Eau Duelle Eau de Toilette by Diptyque

This is a review of the edt in the rectangular bottle. Eau Duel is more than an excellent composition of a vanilla centered fragrance. The ingredients are of good quality, and the vanilla is true to itself as much as it can be without being too sweet. Unfortunately, frankincense doesn't stand out enough on my skin. Therefore, for me Eau Duel has rather a linear accord of a bit dark and spicy vanilla. I am not fond of vanilla as such, although I recognize how soothing it can be. ED has excellent sillage for the first three hours, but its longevity is quite outstanding surpassing eight hours and on cloths more than a day. Eau Duel is a great offering for those who love vanilla. The reason I give a neutral is that I am not so appreciative of vanilla centered fragrances, and because much to my dismay the interplay with frankincense is not working for me (on my skin).


Rock Crystal by Olivier Durbano

Rock Crystal is quite an extraordinary fragrance although not groundbreaking. It is an enchanting woody resinous incense composition of high quality ingredients. While it is not a rich or thick fragrance it manages to linger for hours and hours. I find RC dry and as it progresses it becomes woodier. Cedar and/or pine friends tell me they smell on me after 3-4 hours of wearing RC. RC reminds me of a superior version of Jaisalmer. Sillage is excellent for 3-4 hours, and longevity too for +8 hours and on cloths more than a day. I must say that the initial accord of RC smells a bit acrid to me so I am more fond of the mellower stages that it enters 30 minutes after its opening. The perfumes by Olivier Durbano are not exactly rare but they are hard to find. RC is unisex.


Like This / Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

Like This put a smile on my face at the first sniff. I tested it three times. It is rather a compelling and well made perfume with an interesting opening of sweet but fresh hesperidic accord of pumpkin-carrot. It morphs into a quirky herbaceous gourmand with a comforting dry down. It is not sirupy but it does have a sweetness to it. LT lasts for more or less 8 hours on my skin and its projection is above average. It is cheerful and gourmand and a wonderful perfume overall. Alas I found it a bit overpowering in its uniqueness. I was very close to purchasing 100ml when I thought that I would get tired of smelling that strikingly. So although LT is wonderful it is not that easy to wear, or rather it is not my kind of perfume. Still, if you come across it, do try it! As for the connection to Tilda Swinton ... just forget about it.


Immortal Beloved by YS Uzac

Immortale Beloved is a spicy sweet amber quite oriental in its effect and a bit overbearing. It starts with an almost medicinal accord of sweet ripe fruits (strange I know!) then it mellows into a sweet tangy amber, and dries down hours later into something that reminds me of Arabic coffee. It is wearable in a decadent and kind of on your face way. The longevity, silage and quality are great, but then again you will appreciate IB only if you like this kind of perfumes. For me IB is heavy and overly "perfumey".


Métaboles by YS Uzac

I think Micotti got this one right. Métaboles is a beautiful multifaceted perfume. It starts minty spicy and sweet (I thought a spicy floriental at first) and actually the opening is the least to my taste. But then soon after incense appears that is divine. The dry down is sweet and musky but not at all syrupy; in fact it is transparent and uplifting. Métaboles is my favorite from YS-Uzac so far. Just beautiful with good longevity and silage.


Blend of Marvels : Incense (Green) by YS Uzac

BOM Incense is overall a very green incense. It starts with a blast of a celery accord that is acrid and overwhelming. It soon morphs into a striking incense but the celery accord stays on. It takes a few hours for BOM to reveal a mellower green incense. By this time I have gone through instances when I find it overbearing and instances that I find it intriguing and sophisticated. This is quite an accomplishment considering the initial kitchen ambience of BOM. This otherwise very potent and somehow formal perfume is still not appropriate for a night at the Opera or a romantic dinner... neither for work, nor a party for that matter. Longevity is not exceptional at around 5-6 hours on my skin, although on cloths BOM sticks around for days. Sillage is excellent, thus I suggest cautious application. Incense lovers should give this ... a few trials.


Pohadka by YS Uzac

Pohadka is quite a strange name, isn't it? Internet says it is Check for fairy tale. This starts as a sweet, spicy, pungent floral or is it some kind of heavy herbal ?... I don't know. Very soon after I get tobacco which I guess makes Pohadka a serious adult affair. I don't have the nose to discern much development here. I can only say that at later stages too Pohadka sustains a sweet-herbal accord. Pohadka is rather a seamless composition. After 7 hours on my skin it leaves a sweet spicy trace that is barely noticeable. But when I breath onto my skin, I can get a spicy deeper herbal accord. On my clothes it is of course more evident but there the spiciness is considerably less. I have been wearing Pohadka for a couple of days now and I can't make up my mind about it. The sillage is ok and in fact any stronger might have rendered it offensive. The longevity is average (6 hours). At times I have been getting whiffs that are almost intoxicating but the overall feeling is that of wearing a sweet overbearing perfume. In fact to be honest I find Pohadka too perfumey. It has this vibe of a perfume of a past era ... not my cup of tea.


Iris by Le Galion

I am attracted to Iris because I have discovered a couple of perfumes constructed around Iris that are beautiful. Iris by Le Galion though is not a favorite, but it is not not that bad either. I have been wearing it for two weeks now and here are my impressions: it starts with a cheerful flowery blast; it develops into a feel-good, well-behaved bouquet with a bit of tanginess; a few hours later it develops a rather beautiful accord of wood, and although there is none listed, some illusion of vetiver. Iris reminds me first of Eau Mohéli, then of CK1 and hours later of one of the more virile Bulgari (I don't remember which). So, this one requires plenty of sampling and patience. Iris is not very dated but it does not break any frontiers in perfumery either. All and all "sympathetic". Longevity and silage are above average.


Eau Noble by Le Galion

Such an inconspicuous but beautiful offering from Le Galion! A heavenly fragrance that opens with a blast of freshness and develops into a beautiful and seamless cologne. The silage is modest and the longevity on my skin is approx. 4 hours. After that EN lingers on as a skin scent till it disappears 5 hours after application. For its brief journey EN does well but I would have expected a bit more from an eau de parfum especially of this price range. If ever Le Gelion decides to launch a concentré version of EN it would be great news.

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