Most fragrance houses are shameless. They follow (or more accurately copy) the trend.
Guerlain with Coty, everyone else with No5.
And more recently Cool Water.
But in 80s it was Drakkar Noir. A lot of fragrances from 80s were "inspired" by Drakkar Noir. Some thought it was perfect so they did not change anything in their version.
Pancaldi, though, believed it can better DN and added herbal elements to it.
I think they did a good job and their homage to Drakkar Noir is, to my nose, better than the original.
The opening is tuberose solifloral. Really nice and simple but I like the way it goes on to be a sweet laundry-musky vanilla at the end.
I enjoy it more than his other tuberose - Champs Lunaires
I am always wary of Jasmine florals cause they almost always get the balance wrong. Either too indolic or too bland. I went in expecting this to be an indolic powerhouse. Boy was I wrong. This is one of the best Jasmine solifloral I have tried. Smells like a blooming jasmine garden after rain.
Opens up as bitter-green and sweet floral. I don't smell any lavender here.
Moves to sweet musk and rose.
A very floral masculine. Givenchy did that successfully with Insense. This one may be better
FBW and thumbs up
Starts with sweet piney incense and cardamom. Within a few minutes it veers towards the Fille en Aiguilles territory. Ambery incensy forest smell.
The drydown is more pungent and reminds me of One Man Show sans Galbanum.
I like the way it develops and I would give it neutral to thumbs up.
I have the original moustache and the concentree version.
So I got this cause it was cheap, BN folks were not unhappy with it and to complete the collection.
It is a typical Middle Eastern houses (Arabian Oud, Rasasi) doing European creation but blended better - Cardamon, iris,rose, norlimbanol, vanilla and musk.
A modern oriental ;)
It smells dense and rich. For the price it is going for $35/125ml I would recommend it - office safe, date safe.
The bottle alone (hefty piece of art) makes it worth it.
A modern rose "chypre". They tried to do a Coriandre, a Diva. And while they came up short, I will recommend it cause I am a sucker for rose chypre and they did try to do right by the genre.
It is worth a try for rose fan and I think FBW if you don't want to go hunt for vintages.
I am a big fan of Azzaro PH. I like it in all formulations. So when I saw this I assumed it would be a more concentrated version of APH.
But it is not exactly that. There is a a modern twist to it - Cinnamon and that kills it for me. Now I must say that they have used cinnamon very well, light and deft while maintaining the original APH character. Unfortunately, the Cinnamon note is a killer for me , both in fragrances and in desserts.
Pass for me but if cinnamon is not your kryptonite give it a try.
I don't think I can add anything to what has already been said. It is a great fragrance and a great bargain. Delivers Patou Pour Homme punch at Azzaro PH price.
Italian craft at its best. For some reason folks prefer French houses to Italian in fragrances. I could never fathom why. Oh well buy it while still cheap.
Starts great with incense and resins. Not unctuous like other famous incenses.
But within an hour a sour lactonic accord shows up spoiling the party for me.
All in all a good incense fragrance but Avignon remains the gold standard of incense for me.
The epitome of perfumery (Italian or otherwise). Perhaps the best floral ever made. The only other that is close is the vintage First by VCA (Elena's one and only masterpiece).
The aldehydes are not in your face here but support the whole structure. The rose, jasmine, honey and civet make up the core of this with aldehydes and musk providing support. The development and complexity is where the Italian perfumery is at its best and Krizia delivers.
I have tried both EDP and EDT. Both are amazing and FBW++ . But they are similar enough that you don't need both. I like EDT much better - brighter, more development and less aldehyde.
For some reason Krizia is not talked about a lot here and elsewhere on the interwebs.
Go get this one while still at $1/ml.
Don't think, just do it
A fougere with peppery incense. I thought Ormondo Jayne started this trend but I guess they just copied Seaward's style.
It was love at first smell, perhaps the only time I bought a fragrance on the spot as soon as I smelled it.
I don't think I can add any thing new here. This is where "masculine" perfumery started.
Unfortunately I am not sure how the current one compares to the original.
Don't get me wrong. The current one is amazing. It is one fragrance everyone should have in their wardrobe. No excuses. Note that there are two versions out there - EDP and Extrait. Both are FBW. I find the EDP better (and more versatile) than extrait. Both can be had for under $1/ml.
But I wonder how the original one might have been. I have a bottle from 70s or so. It is called Houbigant Royal Fern cologne. But it is more of a EDC than a fougere. Nothing like (and,surprisingly, inferior to) what is out now.
This is so much better than Declaration. A sophisticated and refined version. The musk, Ambrette and coriander add a good deal of skank to it. The beauty is the balance. The spices and jasmine tea counterbalances the skank and you get a smooth, almost dandy, fragrance.
Jasmine, tea and vetiver play same role as they do in Palais Jamais - which is another great fragrance.
Opens with galbanum, incensne , amber, spices and musk. As it settles down I get some Hinoki and coffee too.
It is right in my wheelhouse. Sweet and spicy incense.
If you like CdG incense series or MadHat's Incenses you will like this one too.