Perfume Reviews by Darvant

Sauvage Parfum by Christian Dior

To my nose Dior Sauvage is a pleasant boisterous piece of sport virility full of aromatic/soapy/woody/leafy/herbal synth dynamism but lacking a real spark of class and elegance. Same speech for this even soapier Parfum-version (turned soapier by a enhanced dosage of tonka bean I suppose), which is stronger on the sporty side (I still detect fizzy hesperides, soapy "shower foam like" lavender, pepper, sporty soapy patchouli and ambroxan). The dominant floral note it seems I detect is dry geranium well combined with pepper, acid citrus, lavender and woody ambroxan. Dry down is still "pungent" on spicy fizziness, shower-like sporty soapiness and final woody/"ambroxy" peppery virility. This is finally a likealable "metro-boy" fragrance and not a distinctive aroma under my profane nose.
25th January 2021

Asja by Fendi

Another olfactory lush giant from the italian maison Fendi Roma (after the unsurpassed Fendi by Fendi). Asja is a sumptuous fruity spicy-oriental rich of palatin Roman class and exotic mystery. Scenarios from La grande bellezza jump immediately on mind by smelling this aristocratic fragrance (atmospheres of luxuriant "Palatin" Roman "decadence " costellated by sweet candles, frescos, bronze armors, chiselled pots, cardinalates, massive frames, bas-reliefs and tapestries). This exotic oriental a la Ysl Opium/Estee Lauder Cinnabar is focused on a central intricate accord of ripe fruit, floral notes, vanillic muskiness and spicy amber. Opening is super spicy and fruity with its intoxicating blast of peachy plumminess, red fruits from the forest, hesperides and cinnamon (in a while quite lush and mysterious). As the evolution enters its central stage a complex bouquet of floral patterns takes the scene with its 70's/80's honeyed elixir-effect a la Ysl Opium but with a vague viney-liquorous ripe "new" vibe in the air. In particular a fruity floral spicy (mostly cinnamon and cloves in a final phase) connection of redberries, apricot and orchid provide a decisive sultry twist in a middle way between scents a la Cacharel Eden and more aristocratic creations a la Fendi by Fendi, Ungaro Diva or Coco Chanel. Anyway, a more properly bitter floral note of carnation affords a sort of more mature "accomplisced" green/leafy balance on this spicy-fruity "crudeness". Dry down is basically oriented on a "Lutenesque" incensey-honeyed amber/patchouli accord well calibrated and more "restrained" over the initial fruity/spicy tornado. In particular the note of patchouli lords on a base of musk, honeyed amber, cloves and sandalwood (quite austere, dry-spicy and "asian"). A classic unfortunately discontinued italian spicy-oriental which is witness of a disappeared "posh/manneristic" italian high class and distinction.
23rd January 2021


Marbert Man by Marbert

A crisp/leathery spicy aromatic fougère conjuring me masterworks of olfactory perfection a la Guerlain Derby and Aramis by Aramis. Yes old-fashioned and retrò in style with the initial aldehydic blast of basil and lavender, a central rooty/angular virile heart of ambergris, tobacco and green rootiness a la Quorum and with a soapy leathery final accord of moss and stout leather. A fragrance exuding class, "orthodox" manliness and assertiveness, with well calibrated floral accents (mostly a super dry-leafy geranium), hints of greenness and a final super-virile touch of leather and ambergris. An old-school fragrance for a conservative well tailored over 50 man with a passion for leatherwears.
14th January 2021

Armani Code Profumo by Giorgio Armani

Powdery tonka, hints of aromatic lavender and spicy (somewhat peppery-cinnamonic) amber provide a piquant "dusty" masculine trait while a sort of citric caramellous fruitinness elicits that sort of bubblegum sweetness of which several reviewers are talking about. Drydown smells slightly powdery/sugary (with a synth mandarine-tone) with hints of kind of "pencil-shavings" woods, vanilla and leather. Strong longevity and projection on my skin. A dynamic modern juice which could work either as signature office choice or as a night out olfactory solution. Yes, an exceedingly synthetic laboratory-creation, finally somewhat linear and in line with many spicy/sweet woody-leathery modern creations (Mont Blanc Legend Night or CH Men Privé Carolina Herrera to quote several).
9th January 2021

Fougère L'Aube by Rogue Perfumery

Rogue Fougère L'Aube is a new appreciable alchemy issued by this american niche lab and a real jump back in to a glorious "barber-shop" past under my vulgar nose. I agree with drseid that this fragrance is a fine example of what a traditional aromatic fougère should smell like (a modern example of the "real deal"), due to the effort of this artisanal perfume house refusing (likewise few others) to comply with the penalizing IFRA guidelines which have finally almost killed and depersonalized the historical olfactory categories. Since the first minutes after the application on skin several classic herbal fougére creations as Trophee Lancome and Trussardi Action Uomo jump more than vaguely on mind with their "legacy" of dry floral notes, aromatic lavender, grass, piquant spices, galbanum, coumarine, juniper berries and moss. I perceive by soon (in the top stage) a certain aromatic/citric grassy piquancy under my profane nose, probably provided by dry/aromatic spicy notes, which are slightly hesperidic (lime, coumarine and bergamot) and quite grassy-minty (fern, mint, angelica?). The grassy notes are vivid, vibrant, vaguely coniferous, kind of "minty/balsamic", lymphatic and definitely aromatic (conjuring the cool "early morning air" on the high mountains). In particular hay, galbanum, petitgrain and camphor produce a dominant sort of bitter/peppery, grassy/resinous, woody/paper and mossy/camphoraceous dryness all around (conjuring me several more recent Testa Maura-creations as Carticasi and Mia Murzia as well), quite notable in the general grassy/leafy atmosphere. The latter is the mossy "field" on which a dry piquant floral tandem (rose/geranium?) at one point settles its roots in the real core of the olfactory performance. As the composition enters its final basic stage than notes as oakmoss, coniferous resins, woods and galbanum (supported by hay, coumarine and grassy aromatic notes) finally cast down the woodsy vivid ambience of this olfactory "silvan" creation. Dry down is somewhat linear, still bitter/peppery, basically mossy-resinous (cistus/labdanum), dry/leafy-floral and definitely grassy. Projection is medium while longevity is above average on my skin. In conclusion Fougère L'Aube could not be defined a real crack but is definitely a more the dignified contemporary "reproduction" of the classic fougère structure by a wise assemblation (in line with a glorious herbal aromatic past) of high quality raw materials and natural ingredients.
13th December 2020

Tiffany & Co by Tiffany

A translucent aqueous/aquatic calonic super sharp musky eau de parfum by Tiffany&Co, something in the middle between Elisazeth Taylor Love and White Diamonds, Laura by Laura Biagiotti, Chanel Eau Tendre, Reminiscence Rem, Malone Lime, Basil & Mandarin and L'Erbolario Fiore dell'Onda, with a tad of J'adore. There is an extreme acid/metallic aqueous floral sharpness in the general musky atmosphere. All the elements smell kind of pure, classy-chic and transparent in a sort of "enchanted pond-like" fairy ambience. The citric tartness is kind of melancholic and nostalgic while muskiness is finally moody, peppery and slightly green. The floral presence of iris is decidedly sharp, citric, peachy and vaguely acid, with a moody final touch from patchouli, blackcurrant and woodsy elements. A tad of grapefruit? Vague aquatic synth patterns? Lilac, peony? It seems the perfumer Daniela Andrier has been inspired by her passion for the universe of jewelry and precious stones in order to create this "classic in class" modern well-blended fragrance. Well crafted but not original. My medium rating is focused on the general measure and the olfactory musky balance.

P.S: along the late dry down the juice improves and I detect a more "pronounced" blackcurrant-presence, a tad of soothing balsam and a darker floral presence (moody iris and something conjuring me lily of the valley).
8th December 2020

Ferrari Red Power by Ferrari

Really warm, sporty-classic, piquant and masculine (yet casual and "commonplace"). The opening is "lavender-aromatic" and fizzy hesperidic with lot of cardamom. Bombastically sporty- powerhouse in a modern acceptation. I perceive orange and bergamot in a stout connection. The floral transition is fleeting, severe and dry. Dry down: pungent citrus, "sweaty smell of man" (warm, woody, dry, kind of organic), pepper (in huge amount), harsh "burnt" cedarwood and warm synth musky virile ambergris. One of the most masculine and versatile scents I know. A fragrance for a dynamic yet fancy urban fellow.
5th December 2020

Boss Bottled Eau de Parfum by Hugo Boss

An Armani Code Profumo/Ysl La Nuit de l'Homme-first cousin and a change in direction if compared with the original (and greater) Boss Bottled EDT formula. A dry fruity opening (in which you could detect the acid/sweet twist from green apple) supported by a huge dose of cardamom and peppery sweet spices (cinnamon/nutmeg) morphing gradually down towards a warmer/earthier woody base really spicy/rooty, with a hint of not listed leather and something kinda nutty (walnuts?). A huge amount of spicy cedarwood (cinnamon/nutmeg) and cardamom are dominant under my profane nose. Boss Bottled Parfum is a woody-spicy masculine fragrance. While the original Boss Bottled edt formula was a more balanced lighter aromatic classic with a lighter woodiness provided by olivewood and a final semi-oriental touch (a brighter fragrance more marked by aromatics, dry floral notes, a softer spiciness and by a soothing final vanillic touch) this Parfum version is drier, dustier, woodier and spicier with no floral frills, much more "pepper", a tiny touch of resins and leather and a stouter piquant woody (vaguely pencil shaving) feel slightly conjuring me up smokier/more somber scents a la Montana Graphite, Gucci Pour Homme I or De Balmain Carbone.
29th November 2020

Rumz al Rasasi 9325 pour lui by Rasasi

A vibrant and zesty peppery/citric/exotic opening evolving into a sort of Aventus-like final mix of woodsy resinous cedarwood, smoky suede and musky synth ambergris. Actually Rumz Al Rasasi 9325 Pour Lui opens energically on fresh/spicy pineapple and lime and (passing through a dry floral transition) settles down to a mix of fir, lemon (throughout present and heady), cedarwood, fir, leather and synth ambergris. This Al Rasasi fragrance is labelled in terms of cheap Aventus-variant/clone along side with scents as Al Maknoon Silver, Armaf Club de Nuit Intense Man and Vibrant Leather by Zara. Rumz is really close to Aventus but smells fruitier, stronger on lime and hesperidic acid bitterness, less prominent on juicy pineapple (in here smelling drier and no way "ripe"), less smoky and basically softer on my skin (with a less powerful sillage if compared to Aventus). If you can't handle with the "boisterous" Aventus-smokiness (especially the one in some batches of Aventus) than this fragrance could be a valid inexpensive alternative. Lemon is prominent on pineapple (and throughout) and the fruitiness is slightly less peppery. Also in here the smokiness is heady but in a more "balanced" way while the zesty/musky fruitiness (with vague ozonic elements) is the real protagonist of the olfactory performance. Dry down is definitely close to Aventus (especially to several of its batches) and Armaf Club de Nuit but smoother, more lemony, fresher and softer on suede, spiciness, rootiness and smokiness. Performances in general are more than satisfactory. Better to be worn in sultry/humid/exotic climates, tanned skin, unbuttoned shirt, hair pulled back with gel, shiny leather shoes, rugged southern accent. Applied it sparingly on skin, it's powerful.

25th November 2020

Vulcano L.E. by Urban Scents

Urban Scents Vulcano unveils by soon its vivid rural nature founded on the juxtaposition betweed two diverse elements and their two different olfactory effects. Fresh citrus and burnt/turpentinic woods merge their different natures (fizzy/bracing on one side and smoky/arid on the other one) in order to exude a new weird artistic and bizarre aroma (vaguely fizzy/rubbery, quite particular and intriguing). This perfume conjures me vaguely a "smell from my childhood" (flash back from countryside) exuded by burning peels of orange or mandarine which old people used to torch in order to use it as insects/bugs repellent and air fresheners inside the old country houses and cottages (with the smell of burnt woods in the meanwhile penetrating from outside or from the fireplace). Opening is immediately (for a few seconds) zesty/acid and green (as the aroma of green peels of oranges or mandarines) but in a while it materializes a transition towards a sort of kind of rubbery/smoky effect elicited by burnt woods. Gradually the hesperidic fizziness recedes (but not at all, still leaving its aroma in the air) in order to leave the scene to a drier and smokier woody vibe (kind of burnt, toasted, steamy and vaguely sulphureous). An atmosphere more than a properly accomplisced olfactory alchemy. Really evocative and kind of mystic juice.
21st November 2020

Ishtar by Rogue Perfumery

Yes, definitely a ambery incensey aromatic forest smell in the same league as Lutens Fille en Aiguilles or to a certain extent Armani Onde Mystere. Grassy resinous frankincense (coniferous resins, dry berries from the forest?), redolent floral leaves, moss and myrrh are the main actors of this "coniferous/stuffy" olfactory fatigue by Rogue. Opening features a bright accord of citrus, aromatics and frankincense supported by cool forest resins and juniper. The note of frankincense smells vaguely barber-shop, mossy-aromatic and kind of "vintage chyprey". In a while, as the composition enters in its central stage, the sweet side of the juice takes off and I get benzoin, spicy/sugary resins and dry floral patterns before the aroma starts developing towards a final drier (still sweet and resinous) woody base in which I detect burnt spices, intense floral notes (lily, jasmine as well?), dry woods, dry leaves (tobacco?) and musk. Ishtar (under my nose) is basically a modern neo-vintage aromatic mild-resinous gentleman's fragrance with spicy/floral/resinous elements and a "stuffy" chypre undertone ready to unveil its hidden spark. Juniper, citrus and lily (especially in the top stage) support frankincense in order it to turn out bright, soapy, aromatic and lively while benzoin and myrrh afford a sort of oriental soul which (as connected with sandalwood, hesperides, stuffy moss/forest resins and dry leaves) unveil a sort of stuffy/camphoraceous/musky undertone (vaguely a la Acampora Musc). A well blended flory-oriental composition for all the lovers of "gentlemen" sweet dry-mossy olfactory creations.

14th November 2020

Paradise Found Eau de Parfum for Women by Roberto Cavalli

Cavalli Paradise Found opens with a sort of sophisticated and spicy fruity/exotic twist which is marked on jasmine, neroli and undiscerned exotic patterns (kind of juicy, peppery, fruity and fizzy). The green-floral note of frangipani enhances the general exotic (kind of tropical) vibe. I detect the piquant contribution from pink pepper and probably nutmeg which connect themself to a sort of mellow creamy sensual "basic" sandalwood (which is the main theme of this synth fluity/floral mélange). It seems to detect something like peony or magnolia (providing a tad of floral/leafy tartness) which are anyway here not listed. I detect a really vague "icy/synth/peppery" floral twist slightly conjuring scents a la Givenchy Very Irresistible. I have no references about palm leaf's assumedly exotic smell. In a nutshell the juice is endly modern-chic and vaguely "tropical" in style but I find it finally too flat and poor on its structure.
8th November 2020

Illusione for Him by Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta Illusione for him is a well blended neo-classic woodsy combination of hesperides, cardamom, cedarwood and vetiver. This creation is classy and harmonious with a plain "italian sartorial well-tailored" twist. The composition (once the top notes get fading their initial impact) is subtle and modern (unveiling a sort of apparent tea-like vibe mostly provided by cardamom) despite the main accord tends to retrace classic routes and balances. I see points of sharing with Cartier Declaration which smells spicier and less strong on bitter orange and cedarwood under my fallible nose. Along the way (mostly in the middle stage of developement) the combination of rootiness, hesperides, woodsy elements, "dampness from the forest", piquant spices and cedarwood conjures me significantly the rootier, woodier, wildier and stouter (less tamed by balsams) Terre d'Hermes as well. Opening is a spicy blast of bitter hesperides, green elements and piquant spices. I detect by soon a measured aromatic vibe based on woodsy coniferous elements and a notable presence of rooty vetiver. Along dry down cedarwood (enhancing gradually its strenght) smells dominant (lording) on vetiver and tends to wave around gradually soothed by balsams and tonka. Overall the final effect is satisfactory due its sheer dose of elegance, measure and urban minimalism. Very elegant bottle. A solid italian composition.
5th November 2020

Mousse Illuminée by Rogue Perfumery

A balsamic coniferous piece of vintage mossy/chyprè with a plain natural tree moss-dominance. Rogue Mousse Illumínee starts radiant (and vaguely "Art-Nouveau"/chyprè a la Oriza L. Legrand Chypree Mousse New), musky/balsamic (kind of minty) and floral, with a marked sort of "barber-shop" aromatic twist (super cool and woodsy like a sort of ideal "more elevated and royal" floral vintage Pino Silvestre). Artemisia, cypress and laurel leaves (but it seems to detect something like fern, absynth or angelica as well) are heady on this initial stage, exuding a sheer musky/mentholated vibe. Along the way the floral presence (connected to moss and resins) express itself in a more vivid and redolent way, like a haunting presence connecting the mossy/aromatic head with a deeper resinous/smoky soul. On this stage the absynth's influence slightly recedes but is still relevant. In particular the woody presence smells vaguely smoky and herbal on my skin (a tad of mastic or galbanum as well?). Finally something soapy and bitter/herbal starts to emerge and keeps rising till the end of the trip (the resinous presence is connective and soothing, perfectly linking all the herbal, floral and bitter/woodsy elements). On the whole this fragrance smells particularly aristocratic on my skin with its aromatic old-school chypre appeal. Along the way it smells even more bitter and restrained, encompassing a quite assertive temperament founded on a bitter/resinous minty soul which seems supporter by galbanum and florals. Honestly I don't detect any comparison with vintage Polo (which is finally more typically "virile", drier, spicier and more complex "on" lavender, tobacco, hesperides, woody elements and leather) while (as pointed out by the excellent drseid) I finally catch more elements in common with vintage Caesars Man (mossy, minty and barber-shop on fir balsam and geranium) and with scents as Faconnable Homme, Ysl Kouros (this one in particular), Lapidus Pour Homme, Balenciaga Para Hombre and Penhaligon's English Fern.
P.S: along the "deep dry down" (which is endly somewhat linear and with a mastic/galbanum-effect a la Testa Maura Carticasi) the connection between treemoss, white musk and resins produces a sort of "galbanum/smooth vetiver-effect" under my profane nose. On this stage I also detect stronger a sort of waxy/resinous aromatic vibe a la Kouros.
25th October 2020

L'Interdit Intense by Givenchy

The new L'Interdit Intense 2020 is definitely a musky fragrance founded on a musky/vanillic connection of orange blossoms, ylang-ylang and balmy tuberose. The latter (playing throughout a role of absolute protagonist) smells super smooth and powdery, while the fragrance itself kind of lipstick, sultry-synth (a la Elie Saab Le Parfum) and creamy-orangy (with a tad of fruity - peachy/orangy -acidity). This new creation preserves a part of the classic foundation (musk, ylang-ylang, vanilla, fruitiness etc) deriving from its olfactory ancestor - the original L'Interdit or the Givenchy top sellers Organza and Amarige- with its tad of hesperidic acidity, peachiness and greenness (which is however "purified" from the "vintage" hesperidic articulation, its mossy-animalic mould, its tad of rootiness and the floral ambery "baroquisme") which is in this case cleaned up, polished, intensified and simplified with a more contemporary powdery musky "easier" (somewhat monolitic) olfactory touch. Black sesame? I have no idea what it smells about. Synth black vanillic patchouli represents the dark sultry side of the floral soapy accord. This juice is definitely darker and easier to wear (more crowd pleasing and versatile) with its semi-oriental (kind of glamour chic) synth musky aura but even surely lacking real complex structure and classic french grandeur.
8th October 2020

Flos Mortis by Rogue Perfumery

Rogue Flos Mortis quickly unveils its veritable "redolent" indolic nature represented by a vibrant mentholated mélange of sambac jasmine, tuberose and suedish (vaguely lipstick) osmanthus (the refined floral/leathery spark at distance). I definitely detect on skin the Rogue's landmark mouldy vibe provided by a sort of "vintage" accord kind of medicinal, naphtalenic/aldehydic/musky (a la Areej Le Dore Siberian Musk), something rubbery (vaguely boot-polish like), barely waxy, slightly honeyed and mouldy (with a vague mushroom-like humid atmosphere) with hints of floral soapiness (like in Bogue MAAI I detect a sort of tribute to a classic "french/british" royal concept of "barber-shop/laundry/cleaned-room-like"). Along the transition towards the heart and the dry down jasmine slightly recedes while tuberose moves up to the top with its carnal floral "aggressiveness", perfectly flanked by a subtle soapy/suedish touch of osmanthus, musk and leather. This powerful floral dirty/musky indolic vibe conjures me significantly another musky/dirty floral accord, namely the Corticchiato's floral/musty-rotten beast Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin (orchid, ylang-ylang, lily, perhaps tropical flowers, tuberose with hints of jasmine, hyper realistic animalic musk, something kind of sultry, spicy - cloves, cinnamon? - and with a sheer mossy and somewhat acrid/fecal type of dirtiness). Yes, the scary name Flos Mortis could easily evoke a sort of "graveyard ambience" and effectively the intense dirty floral tornado (with its vague "flowerpot stale water" twist - hints of slightly fecal civet a la C&S Cuba? - ) could vaguely recall this mournful solemn atmosphere. On the other hand I have anyway to say that along the way the aroma exhales out in a more civilized, mature and "european" way, with a more classic and measured floral soul a la Piguet Fracas or Givenchy Amarige.
4th October 2020

Derviche by Rogue Perfumery

Derviche starts off effectively medicinal and kind of apothecarian in order to morph down (relatively) quickly in to a fantastic musky/floral accord of leather and perfumed tobacco leaf. Leather is the main theme and this dominant element smells finally smooth, velvety and suedish. I get resins and animalic patterns along the way. Olibanum in particular is initially detectable on skin. Olibanum is perfectly connected with animalic musk/labdanum, amber, woods and medicinal hesperides in order to exude a wonderful retrò and stuffy atmosphere (like breathing the "mouldy aura" of an old parisian attic full of old books, pipe-tobacco smoke, decrepit fornitures, "potpourry flower pots" and vintage stuffs). Spices, probably dried fruits, vanilla and leather provide effectively this weird final "cherry accord" which is vaguely floral and definitely suedish. Dry down is smooth, natural and intimate, like a quite pleasant floral/suedish olfactory pearl. Suede is well rounded, vaguely rubbery and woody (for a refined combinaton of perfumed tobacco and mild - vaguely pencil-shavings - wood). Derviche is my second Rogue-experience after Tabac Vert and I have to say that my impression is completely positive (this is a super refined suedish-accord civilized by musks, delicate jasmine, vanilla and soft resins, not a complex accord but something incredibly balanced, discreet and well crafted). I detect a vague resemblance with Ambre Narguile but Derviche is definitely woodier and smoother (with its delicate touch of soothing vanilla. Vanilla, supported by musks, is the amalgamative factor connecting all together the diverse elements).
2nd September 2020

Bois d’Amande by Van Cleef & Arpels

Effective minimalistic combination of woods, fir resins, suede, kind of almond/coconut's balsam and hesperides. This fragrance is a unisex woody-oriental from the V&A Collection Extraordinaire. Woods and lemon are on the stage, providing the central structure of the olfactory fatigue. The aroma is kind of silvan and woodsy-oriental with an almondy twist and a lemony tad of "aromatic metallic". Opening (vaguely liquorous) is mastered by a strong presence of lemon and almond while gradually woodsy resins, musks and soothed woods take the scene. The aroma is basically woody/musky with a tad of fresh/aromatic (slightly metallic) and a semi-oriental soul. Dark, fresh/warm and enigmatic, recommended for all the lovers of masculine oriental boisè.
8th August 2020

Tabac Vert by Rogue Perfumery

Tabac Vert represents my first approach with the fragrance american brand Rogue Perfumery, a non-IFRA restrictions natural perfume-factory founded by the passionate perfumista Manuel Cross, a creator introducing on the market particularly intense creations rich of natural essential oils. It seems all the Rogue-perfumes are the result of years of olfactory experiments, researching and studying about perfumery principles, history of european perfumery and aroma chemicals. Tabac Vert comes to life while attempting to rework some classic powerhouse's formula, combining the former with the bone-dry woody chypre notes operating in scents as Bogart One Man Show and Krizia Uomo (in order to perform a modern tobacco-oriented woody/aromatic chypre fragrance). This is indeed a modern "old school style green-woody chypre" projecting an olfactory atmosphere of massive fornitures, luxurious tapestries, austere wooden libraries, leather-sofá, fine cigars, bar corners and pure malt liquors. I detect immediately a sort of medicinal naphtalenic/aldehydic/hesperidic green musky presence on skin (a la Areej Le Dore Siberian Musk), something kind of rubbery (boot-polish like), waxy, honeyed and mouldy (with a vague mushroom-like humid atmosphere) with hints of rosey soapiness (I detect hints of leafy carnation as well). A super vintage initial aromatic (vaguely coniferous) accord, initially dense but turning gradually out drier and drier (spicier and earthier). This weird opening atmosphere is kind of "apothecarian" and slightly art nouveau. Along the way tobacco emerges with a well rounded floral aromatic soapiness preceded by a tad of vague immortelle-like faint burnt undertone and laced by a sort of floral creamy woodiness. The piquancy gradually fills the general mossy/rubbery "ambience". Dry down is drier, earthier, woodier and spicier (kind of vaguely rooty/dusty and misty), something effectively conjuring a sort of ideal blend of Guerlain Derby and vintage Tabarome (I even detect vague similarities with the classic Knize Ten). This final outcome is quite gentlemanly and classic, a drier floral evolution of a complex mossy/rubbery blend. Recommended for the lovers of these old school woody chyprè with a mossy aromatic soul.
31st July 2020

Mémoire d'une Odeur by Gucci

A chamomille-oriented musky/floral accord with a whiff of warm amber/vanilla. A tad Costume National Scent and a tad a Narciso Rodriguez musky creation (Poudree Eau de Parfum for instance with hints of Chanel Allure). Dry down is kind of musky organic, moody floral and soapy.
20th July 2020

Au Nom de la Terre by Urban Scents

If you appreciate scents a la Testa Maura Mia Murza or L'Erbolario Ginepro Nero you'd probably not dislike this fragrance (which nevertheless unfolds an its own peculiarity, probably drier and rawer). Au nom de la Terre is definitely not my cup of tea despite I appreciate several of its characteristics. It starts bitter, smoky and rooty disclosing gradually a milder and damper soul (definitely softer, sweeter with hints of hesperides, balsams, amber and spices). This weird and resinous combination of woods and forest-resins is indeed kind of rugged, bitter/sweet (with a sort of bitter rooty herbal vibe) and initially kind of "burnt". I detect a mild and kind of "orangy" resinous background counteracting the botanical drier bitterness. This juice is highly "rural" and raw with dull progression and faint structure. It seems to detect something like immortelle or sticky everlasting, overall enveloped by a mantle of soothing labdanum, seasoned woods (vaguely humid) and balm. Dry down is warm and comforting but still too crude and bucolic (with a bitter/rooty background which is the main earthy trait of this rural accord).
23rd June 2020

Boss Bottled Tonic by Hugo Boss

The "tonic" side of the moon is definitely provided by a synth spicy accord of girger, aromatics, bitter citrus and musk. Lot of bitter orange and spicy fruity aromatic fizziness (ginger is heady and kind of fruity). The bitter/acid hesperidic presence plus dry vetiver and bitter apple elicit a sort of ostensibly salty/organic vibe throughout (a fizzy/bitter musky twist), which is sporty and dynamic. Dry down conjures me vaguely Ck Eternity for men, I get salty vetiver but mostly spicy (sweeter) sandalwoood and musk. A quite easy dynamic virile fragrance which is mostly suitable for cold seasons and casual outfits.
19th June 2020

Riflesso Blue Vibe by Trussardi

Speedracer well sums up. While the original Riflesso is a decent composition with an its own olfactive identity this flanker is a sort "adaptation to a trend" (scents with a spicy-floral sugary opening and a sort of woody/leathery dry down with salty-marine elements a la One Million Parfum). Yes, the opening is kind of "YSL La Nuit-esque" or conjuring scents a la Prada Luna Rossa, namely is dusty/sugary (rum and spices), kind of nutty (hazelnut) and woody/spicy (sweet) floral.The transition to drydown is quick and it is kind of sweet musky and woody-leathery with marine elements. Yuzu definitely provides a kind of metallic/marine/green/tea-like effect. Frankly I don't get tobacco while I feel the woody/leathery/metallic long tail. Kind of generic and finally pale and cedary (vaguely pencil shaving).

14th June 2020

Tobacco d’Harar by Giviemme

Tobacco d'Harar, namely a pillar of the italian historical barber-shop virile perfumery. The Italian perfume brand Gi.Vi.Emme wore the initials of Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone, a famous member of the "milanese" dynasty of Visconti. This fragrance is a rooty-aromatic kind of "dandy" accord of patchouli, tobacco and herbal/hesperidic notes. Overall is kind of dry-barber shop, "stout' and masculine in a charismatic uncompromising way. The fragrance is named after the ancient Ethiopian city of Harar, an important center of the spice, tobacco, and coffee trades. The juice itself is focused on a virile powdery/rooty tobacco-accord surrounded by peppery spices, resins, moss, leather and earthy notes. Opening features a zesty combination of hesperides which soon encounter a rich presence of dry spices and aromatic lavender. Cinnamon and cumin are combined with cloves and powdery carnation in the intellectual core of the formula (the retrò/potpourri heart enriched by rose and jasmine). Leather and tobacco, combined with oakmoss, dry cedar and smoky woods gradually unfold the woodsy stout base of this historical olfactory italian gentlemen-creation (dry, persistent and virile, with leathery tones). This is a "smoker fragrance" since its scent (because of its notes) blends well with tobacco smoke (with more than vague conceptual connections with the classic Aramis, which is equally herbal but less smoky/floral and more properly leathery). This fantastic fragrance is unfortunately discontinued nowadays. Its range used to include after shave lotion and powder as well.
6th June 2020