Reviews by Darvant

A brand new exotic dirty/musky accord of red fruits and rose on a woody oriental base. Completely different from the Classic Angel (just in common a - on here just vague - "icy"/cool aura) which is a sort of gourmand patchouli "frozen" (yummy-gourmand kind of slightly almondy/chocolatey) bomb. As opening a "synthetically realistic" raspberry note mixed with a fizzy musky litchi-presence. Definitely musky-acid and "red" as olfactive introduction. Rose emerges gradually almost ominously and commanding. The main fruity accord is settled on a basis of this redolent super rosey rose, woody/resinous notes and a oriental "junction" of vanilla/ benzoin. The note of rose is modern in its fruity/bright yes "cosmic" cool-vaguely icy rendition. With a double extraction/distillation process the perfumer has created a quite modern, bold, bright and almost animalistic musky-fruity rose (intense, vibrant and sensual). The woody presence affords a sort of patch-vibe while benzoin and hints of vanilla provide a sensual final touch. Angel Nova is the fragrance for a bold ultra-feminine contemporary woman. It seems the long lasting durability and powerful sillage of the fruity juice are intensified by the warmth of the wearer's body and sweat (highly interacting with his/her individual chemistry). With this fragrance Mugler reinvents itself by re-interpreting in a modern (tachnologically and conceptually updated) key a classic timeless bold success as Angel. Angel Nova is pretty sensual (a "sweaty/musky" sensuality a la Cartier La Panthére) and hyper feminine in a modern "blatant" way. Synthetic erotism in a bottle.

A modern barbershop aromatic fougère which is next to perfection and a perfect solution for the contemporary (modernly tailored though in a classic way) gentlaman with a vein of traditional slightly old-school mannerism. A perfect harmony of lavender, faint citrus, cold geranium and amber/patchouli with (perfectly calibrated) hints of spicy aromatics (mint and rosemary) and florals. Lavender and aromatics imprint a marked fougère stamp laced by oakmoss and geranium in a classically mossy-aromatic-leafy way. Patch is a key note as in Zino but in a freshly calibrated drier/greener/muskier way. A great orchestra of fresh/warm notes calling partially on mind (as an ideally perfected combination of those classics) pillars a la Zino, Rive Gauche or fresh aromatic fougère a la Drakkar Noir or Azzaro PH but overall in a exquisitely "cleaned" essential modern way (despite the Beau de Jour's depth and complexity). Energically recommended to all those lovers of a daily aromatic fresh/warm "serious" aura with a rich charge of style and sobriety.

Whoah!! The poetic vein and artistic inspiration of the Ella K's talented nose-performer Sonia Constant is immediately evident under my profane nose (with all its legacy of exotic visited lands, new olfactory alchemie's research and gypsy travels). This dreamy juice is truly exotic and silky by its opening. More over Lettre de Pushkar succeedes where "same league" (but diverse quality) initially intoxicating (then balmy/chic) creations (a la Dior Hypnotic Poison for instance) artistically failed (despite their commercial success). Lettre de Pushkar despite its modern urban-chic spark do not fail in order to lift in the air (and root inside the soul) its touch of spicy meditative ambery orientalism.This juice opens quite intoxicating and super ambery-spicy-kind of heliotropic with evident fruity accents, a rosey dominant aura and a wet/boisé undertone provided by vetiver and cypriol oil. The evolution carries the wearer towards a less dusty but more soapy-oudish floral/musky volatile creaminess (a la Heeley Agarwood). The oudh's rendition is airy/musky and balmy, indeed. Overall the perfume is suave and silky, quite balanced and well calibrated in sweetness a la Etro Heliotrope (unlike many overly sugary and cloying musky scents of the current market). There is a secret (by now more classic) chypre rosey/musky spark under the exotic spiciness and I appreciate a lot this link with the urban musky-chic aura. This fragrance is evocative of far lands, spicy alchemies, spirituality and poetic experiences but is at same time easy to wear, down to earth, joyful, dynamic and versatile. Recommended.

Perfecto Fino is simply perfect according with my taste. If you ideally combine vintage Trussardi Uomo, Zoologist Rhinoceros, the classic Quorum and Etro Vetiver (with their charge of tobacco, frankincense, earthiness, mossiness, smoke, woodiness, starkness, rootiness, uncompromising virility and spicy exoticism) you l'll catch the essence of this stout Czech&Speake-creation. This fragrance opens with a notable blast of birch tar combined with angular bergamot, grassy patterns, hints of frankincense and peppery spices in order to morph gradually down towards a "boisterous" but "literary" (in a caribbean way) accord of leather/tobacco, smoky sandalwood, smooth labdanum and earthy vetiver. The note of tobacco conjures me the bottom of an unlit pipe's aroma. Leather is a stout high quality "seasoned" leather but as combined with vetiver, labdanum and grass (cypriol oil?) produces a quite silky olfactory "tail". Dry down is still robust on woodiness, toasted tobacco and seasoned woods but at same time surprisingly smooth, cool on greenness and silky on leather and mossy grassiness. The bottle's packaging conjures effectively an american cigar-box or something apothecarian in a old-school way. Absolutely stunned by this "gentleman exotic" fragrance.

A complex musky/aromatic/boisé fragrance combining a sort of initial old-school radiant neroli-centered spicy (mostly cinnamon)/waxy-nectarinic/aldehydic/floral accord with a futuristic darker minty-metallic vaguely surgical aura (the central part of the trip) sliding down towards a muskier/woodsier accord quite musky and drier (with a sheer sandalwood-presence). Fresh, apothecarian and vaguely dandish/exotic L'Anarchiste strikes for audacity and peculiarity. Points of olfactive connections with Ck Eternity and Givenchy Insensé but L'Anarchiste tells an its own particular orangy/minty/medicinal story. Dry down pushes up a sort orangy/woodsy vibe with dominant vetiver and hints of suede, powdery tonka and musk. Mint waves throughout around. Perfect for "white-linen" south-american seasons

Hauto is a powerfully exotic fragrance combining in a markedly sultry accord three main elements: spicy musk, tuberose and pineapple. All the rest is accessorial despite I detect citrus and a rosey whiff along the way. Tuberose in particular is redolent, "kind of almondy" and vaguely minty. I wonder if a touch of heliotrope has been included in the mix. Pineapple is amazing, "sunny", juicy and "bright" (kind of projecting its fruitiness with a long tropical jet). You can figure on mind caribbean shores, floral crowns, dance competitions and exotic coconutty cocktails. Along the way the muskiness smells more and more restrained, warm (with hints of balmy/rosey/woody resins), organic, dry spicy and unisex (while opening smells kind of properly feminine, "old-cologney" and naif with a sort of old-school and vaguely stuffy/chypre floral hesperidic blast). This fragrance finally amalgamates its sexy warmth perfectly with my skin smelling itself properly as a sort of floral organic potion (quite erotic and "tanned as a tanned perfumed skin"). A more than appropriate choice for all those artistic spirits loving shows, nocturnal spectacles, a far lands break-out, summer-resorts and sultry ambiences.

A dark dusty gardenia infused in to a musky/resinous carnal fruity blanket with a final woody/smoky soul. Really a dark and sultry oriental appointed for the oriental (Middle Eastern) market waving out in a smoky mysterious way. This formula adds smoky/dusty mistiness to a classic organic (landmark-La Panthére) exoticism (fruity/musky sultriness). I detect classic chypre elements and a really exotic enigmatic oudish aura. A leafy royal gardenia tames and civilizes (in a classic european way) this purely oriental steamy mélange. Muskiness is kind of warm and carnal but the general structure is wisely balanced by a western classic chypre mastery. A sort of initial soapy-spicy gardenia is quite soon embraced by a warm musky mantle which is finally nuanced by hints of smoky and dry spicy/woody resins plus cooler (lightening and balancing) fruity floral patterns. Pure oriental felíne beauty by the eminent jewelry brand and classy Cartier's craftsmanship.

Origino represents my first approach with the Jeroboam's olfactory "silent" universe. Inhaling a sniff of Origino from my skin is a supremely musky experience quite sophisticated, dark and enigmatic. Burning aromatic candles and cozy salons overlooking a Venetian canal are "in the air". I have to say that this enigma is not kind of ancestral or spiritual but something significantly urban and glamour in its musky vaguely lipstick fluidy soapiness. There is a silent super chic aura all around, something smelling about museum's halls, lounge refined restaurants, tea salons and posh cultured metropolitan ambiences. I finally imagine dark rooms (inside health clubs) filled by the "elixir" aroma of aromatic candles and soaps. Opening is super spicy (pepper and nutmeg in particular) and "watered" out by hints of citrus and aromatic greens. This cool-fluidy vibe is working throughout. In a while a warmer embrace of precious woods and enigmatic musks takes the scene with its enveloping mysterious soapy/silky blanket. The evolution is not particularly laborious (as usual for super musky accords) while the final twist is more and more subtle and refined. Probably hints of vanilla or balsams are implemented in the spicy/musky recipe. I pick up finally a sort of saffronish rosey nuance in the general aromatic "ambience". Along the dry down a more fluidy/soapy/musky virile woody-aromatic vibe a la Bvlgari Blv PH (but richer and "fuller") waves its twist in the air. Origino is the initial Jeroboam's composition and the original emblem of the brand's supremely musky-urban conceptualism, something vened by quite subtle spicy nuances and a balmy woodsy warmth. Great job by Vanina Muracciole. Thumbs up.

Violet leaves (musky, dark and presenceful in its role of co-star) and "haunting" rose mastering a musky vegetal "victorian in style" rich floral bouquet. I don't get in particular jasmine. Freesia and geranium provide structure, assertiveness, "leafiness" and hints of greenness. Incredibly well appointed fragrance for its cheap cost. Sweetness is absolutely balanced. Rose increases gradually its presence along the way. L'Erbolario Rose is a languid super-floral creation really poetic and refined (exuding a deep sense of soapy cleanliness and measured timeless class). Longevity and projection are impressive on my skin. A resolute thumbs up by me.

Indian-distilled champa flower (champaca, noble and royal), rosey indolic rose and natural musk are the main elements of this visceral resinous attar affair. The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Musk Rose attar is a immensely redolent and nuclear "cosmic" musky floral aroma so deep, sensual and inexplorable. You finally end sliding down a profound aromatic chasm of radiant natural muskiness, deep "nectarinic" waxiness, arcane soapiness, softly whispered frankincense, sticky resins and rosey nostalgia. Agarwood oil enhances the general sense of waxy/apothecarian exotic soapiness. Muskiness is supreme and supremely floral. Addle floral serum (super intense) and animalic tales for us. Aphrodisiac and hounting potion. No more to be added.

Halston Z-14 is a darkly virile herbal fougère (along its run longly bitter/hesperific and darkly mossy a la Ferrè Pontaccio 21 which is a darker and more "acrid/bitter" beast). Virile, powerful and crisply herbal this is a cypress-centered glorious spicy/exotic juice with stout bergamot and mossy patchouli and a softer leathery/mossy/cedary sharper base quite balanced and serious. The powerful opening is focused on citrus, culinary vegetables/weeds and fresh spices which gradually, through a central stiffly spicy-floral (mostly geranium)/rooty/smoky phase, open the doors to a mossier/woodier "forest-stage" with leathery/cedary accents (laced with milder spices) which is well balanced and more restrained. There is a slightly medicinal/rubbery/smoky (but never intrusive) herbal bitterness around. Mild spices (cinnamon and cloves) and aromatic spices (coriander as perfectly connected with the herbal/boisé elements) are masterfully laced eachother and connected with the rest of the woodsy elements. This final phase is rich of earthy patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum, citrus and green/herbal notes, overall well balanced, mossy and restrained (in a classic boisé powerhouse way) but soothed and harmonized by hints of tonka. A complex fragrance with a slightly "powerhouse" crisp soul anyway rich of soothing and civilizing boisé/soapy elements. As for the assumed resemblance with Tom Ford Italian Cypress I'd say Z-14 is more complex in its articulation of spices, leather and woody elements while Italian Cypress smelling more properly minty boisé (and more strictly focused on the main coniferous/aromatic note of cypress) on my skin. As for the assumed resemblance with Valentino Vendetta Pour Homme I definitely prefer the great Vendetta on Z-14. Vendetta is more aldehydic, aristocratic and stronger on leather, lavender, resins and sweet spices while Z-14 is wilder and more focused on the note of cypress, the moss and the aromatic spices (coriander), anyway there is a common moody forest-vibe but Vendetta is more sophisticated and "palatine", less woodsy and more properly baroque, kind of "liquorous" (in a semi-oriental way) and decadent.

Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc is
a simply perfect accord of light spices, green tea, soapy balsams and white musk. The latter is dreamy and ethereal (kind of victorian, as in a Doris Lessing romance), dominant on the side of a white tea-accord (tea note and soapy resins). A "white linen kind of" fragrance of left back languid english afternoons around the gardens of a royal court, a scent of far southern summers, rich of nostalgia and enchantment. A Jacques Cavallier's sleight of hand for Bvlgari Roma.