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Acqua Viva by Profumum

First Profumum fragrance that I've owned, purchased almost blind and at a huge discount, from a friend who was thinning out his collection. I tried not to let my friend's opinion influence my rating for this scent, but I find that he is mostly correct.

The opening is a sweet, sparkling lemon over woods, there's a hint of a light floral underneath, but it's vague and only smooths the lemon and woods over. It's very bright and uplifting at the opening then fades to a fairly generic citrus/cypress. It doesn't project much after the first 10 minutes and is a fair skin scent within 3 hours. I like it, but it is a bit of a disappointment considering the brand and the original retail price. I'll keep it and wear it in hot, humid days, but can't recommend it.


Molecule 01 + Mandarin by Escentric Molecules

Molecule 01 + Mandarin, or more specifically, Iso-E-Super + Mandarin is a perfect combination of notes. While I never cared for Molecule 1 on it's own as it played games with my perception, this combination is heaven and garners a lot of compliments when I wear it. I don't normally wear fragrance for compliments and thus don't frequently receive them, but this fragrance is a huge exception.

Opens with a sweet, sparkly mandarin and dries quickly to a mandarin plus cedar accord. There's a light creaminess, which is the IES musky tone blending in, but all in all it's very simplistic. Easy to wear and perfect for spring and summer. The more your skin heats up the better it projects, but otherwise it has an average level of sillage. Due to the fickle nature of IES to each wearer, I would recommend sampling first to see how it works on your skin, but for me it's a strong recommendation.


Megamare by Orto Parisi

I really like every creation I've tried by Alessandro Gualtieri, from both the Nasamatto and Orto Parisi houses. Megamare may be the most unique to date. While the scent profile leans to aquatic, it is seems illusional, as there is almost no sweetness or floral notes involved. The opening is a mineral-salt water note that has some ozonic undertones, it slowly evolves into a musky-ozonic scent that reminds one of the ocean air or a seaside atmosphere. I'm hard pressed to pick out any individual note, aside from a soft musk. It does indeed last forever on my skin, even after a shower, but the sillage is at normal strength throughout. I like this a lot and will wear it frequently through spring and summer.


Replica Under the Lemon Trees by Martin Margiela

A very middle of the road fragrance that falls into the designer aquatic/freshie/EDC's shelf. Under the Lemon Trees opens with a weak, generic smelling citrus accord that doesn't really last long before fading into the tea and floral middle. It's a bit feminine at this point and still reminiscent of a designer perfume. Not a big sillage, but will last on skin for close to 5 hours. Pretty boring and can be found in many other less expensive versions IMO - see CK One or any of it's flankers.


L'Humaniste by Frapin

A gentle, herbal, slightly boozy barbershop scent from Frapin that is quite compelling. L'Humaniste has a few more support notes, but it's mostly a juniper berry, thyme and gin fragrance to my nose. I really like this style of scent as it is modern, yet drawing from a classic style. Oak moss is detectible, but not dominating in any way. It's very wearable and with the citrus touch makes for a nice warm weather scent. Unfortunately sillage is weak, so after the first thirty minutes it's mostly a personal fragrance with about 4 hours of longevity on me. I'd wear through a bottle of this pretty quickly.


Awake by Akro

Strong black coffee scent that projects well. The cardamom blends well with the coffee but it makes for a rather bitter accord. Smells like roasting coffee beans more than brewed coffee. There are no other notes to sweeten or diffuse the black bitter coffee note. Very well done, with good performance. For me I prefer a more diffused coffee note, cream and a bit of sweetness. Awake is not it, but will appeal to many I am sure. I like the Akro house, but this one is not for me.


Citrus Riviera by BDK Parfums

Nice néroli and citrus opening that fades into the background within the first thirty minutes. Fig and eucalyptus come forward along with sweeter citrus floral that makes a slightly sweet, slightly bitter accord that pushes a seawater vibe. There's a prominent musk in the dry down. There's more notes in support that would take me more wearings to discern. Good performance with average to below average projection. Would smell nice on a man or woman.

Citrus Riviera is nice but certainly nothing unique. I'm reminded of one of the Bulgari Aqua line of fragrances. While it's not another shower gel aquatic, it's a pass and a neutral for me.


21 Conduit St by Jovoy

21 Conduit St starts as a sparkly fougere with a bright and optimistic opening, featuring lavender, citrus and green, pulpy rhubarb. It quickly softens to more of a woody - vetiver with light hints of a non-descript balsamic influence. Not very deep of a fragrance and the opening wears itself out too quickly leaving a very common wood scent. Unfortunately, the opening character is missing in the dry down.

It's pleasant, but too flatly generic from a niche house like Jovoy for a supposedly "signature" house scent. Not for me.


Bergamask by Orto Parisi

A waxy, synthetic concoction that is completely linear from the first spray to whenever you shower it off. A loud, yet flat smelling bergamot over a plasticine musk, with hints of a white flower and possibly sandalwood in support. The bottle has a very mist projecting sprayer and I assume that may be purposeful, as the sillage is huge. It's wearable, but not my preference in this genre of fragrance.


Silver Musk by Nasomatto

Probably the cleanest fragrance I have ever smelled. I received a sample with another purchase, and decided to go ahead a buy a full bottle (30ml). After all, everyone can use a clean laundry scent in their fragrance wardrobe from time to time - especially one that lasts an entire day. Silver Musk is refreshing and uplifting and could be worn year round. It's best described as a soapy floral musk, with little to no actual musk. Nothing animalic here. For me, Nasamatto's total cost for 30ml doesn't break the bank, and I don't really look at it from the cost per ml perspective. Alessandro Gaultieri has some really interesting creations between Nasamatto and Orto Parisi. I don't like all of them but I'm glad I own Silver Musk.


Wood Infusion by Goldfield & Banks

Sweet incense and wood fragrance that stays mostly linear. Not an oud centric scent at all, although it is listed in the notes. Perhaps the iris tones it down or the oud is softened out by the sandalwood. I feel there is more notes than what is listed. I get a dark, fruity accord that hangs in the background - a black currant or plum, but behind the incense and wood. A pleasant, easy to wear spring-summer fragrance that isn't a huge projector. Stays pretty close to the skin for about 5-6 hours, however I only had a sample vial. A few extra sprays from a bottle or layering with Iso-E or Ambroxan would give it a little more punch.

The dry down on Wood Infusion smells a lot like Mancera's Sand Aoud, which I own and like.


Replica Autumn Vibes by Martin Margiela

Incense, pepper and spices make Autumn Vibes open with a woodsy somewhat resinous feel that is very evocative of a fall day. It transitions very dry and you get the fir balsam, cedar and mossy undertones which soften the nature to an almost powder mid and dry down. The nutmeg is there but not prominent. It's in the same vein as By The Fireplace without the smoky chestnut. Nice but nothing groundbreaking for me. Good longevity but only average silage. Masculine leaning IMO, especially in the opening. A good cold weather option.


Patchouli by Réminiscence

A straightforward unisex patchouli fragrance that seems a little thin if compared to Jovoy's Psychedelique or Montale's Patchouli Leaves. It's in the same vein though, earthy with a velvet chocolate nuance. Reminiscence is much more affordable and still cuts through a cold day with style. A thumbs-up.


Desert Rosewood by Goldfield & Banks

I like the opening of Desert Rosewood with it's cedar-esque wood note, floral and orange. It is a little of a cola vibe as others describe, but to my nose it has a cedar wood and bitter orange peel. It's unusual and nice and sticks around for about an hour and then the amber and vanilla begin to take over and the whole thing turns into a skin scent of weak tones. It doesn't do enough for me and wears too light for an amber woods based fragrance. Performance is lacking and there are too many better options.




Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone London

Received a sample of Myrrh & Tonka with a purchase. Thought I might like this one but it's disappointing. I get a designer lavender at the top, which faded quickly and then a resinous almond accord that drifts a bit sour. The notes say tonka and vanilla in the base but I couldn't detect any sweetness, which it desperately needed. All in all it's a bitter nutty fragrance that wears so light it's almost not even there. Pass for me.


Oud For Greatness by Initio

Finally got to sample O4G and while it has it's qualities, it comes across a bit underwhelming IMO. The opening is a large dose of lavender, saffron and dry oud. The effect for me is a dry, rotting log. The lavender gives a barbershop undertone that is unusual but not entirely warming or pleasant. The musk and patchouli arrive late to flatten it out, but for me it's overly dry and medicinal. Not my cup of tea for Initio prices. Neutral.


Oajan by Parfums de Marly

Oajan is one of PdM's more underrated and perhaps under-the-radar fragrances, being overshadowed by mass appeal offerings like Herod, Layton and Sedley. Oajan is more a niche scent, opening with a blast of cinnamon, honey and blood orange. There's a thick layer of benzoin in the heart and a more standard patchouli, vanilla and musk in the base for support. It's got a holiday season vibe that could easily be worn by anyone (unisex), but best for cold weather wear. Great performance as well.


Danse Sauvage by Chris Collins

One of the best performing boozy fragrances I've ever tried. Danse Sauvage is a cognac and cedar fragrance that hints at Killian's Straight to Heaven, but with far better performance. The scent is rounded at the top with plum and saffron, but in the middle chili and rose appear and move in a smooth gourmand like direction. There's hints of vanilla in the dry down but the cognac and cedar notes never disappear and are the feature of the scent. I wore this on a cold day and it was outstanding. I could still smell the scent 12 hours later on my clothes and skin. Great holiday season fragrance but could be worn throughout the colder months. A thumbs up for me.


Black Line by Mancera

Another very nice rose/oud fragrance from the house of Mancera. As a house, Mancera and it's sister Montale, have overplayed the rose/out accord to death IMO, but much of what they offer is very well done and have subtle differences for experienced noses. Black Line to me is a more traditional Middle Eastern scent that's been westernized. While there's no oud listed in the note breakdown, the combination of spice, leather, amber, patchouli and woods provides a softer oud tone that is easier to wear than the real or synthetic out the house typically employs. The rose is also drier and softer to match, but there's still the Mancera trademark performance. I like Black Line and given the excellent value from Mancera fragrances, would consider Black Line full bottle worthy.


Pegasus by Parfums de Marly

Lavender and almond with a vein of a floral vanilla. Another nicely done fragrance by PDM that is not entirely original, nor quite a clone. It reminds me at once of JPG LeMale, but much smoother and perhaps a touch more sophisticated. There's something identifiable that's trademark PDM and I get the same tone in Sedley and Greenley but prefer Pegasus the least. By no means is Pegasus a bad scent, just a bit too designer styled for my tastes. A pleasing fragrance none-the-less that offers excellent performance for any occasions.


Herod by Parfums de Marly

Sweet cinnamon, vanilla, tobacco scent that fits into the TF Tobacco Vanille genre, but less powerful and easier to wear. This is leaf moist tobacco, leaning gourmand as it opens. It has a earthy, vetiver-patchouli base which comes forward late in the dry down. Very pleasant, crowd pleaser, niche quality tobacco scent. I like it, but prefer a less sweet and more aromatic type tobacco fragrance, such as Creed Tabarome. Still a Thumbs Up and worthy option.


Hindu Kush by Mancera

Sweet spices, amber and incense is what I mostly get from Hindu Kush. The spice opening is unique to me in that it projects a light, oily sweetness - perhaps the cannabis and labdanum notes. The incense isn't smoky or heavy and pairs well with the spices. I get a lot of amber tones as it dries down, that are well blended into the other mid and base notes. Like most Mancera's, Hindu Kush has excellent longevity with above average sillage. It's unique and well created, but not something I would want to wear very often. Thumbs up though.


Bentley for Men Intense by Bentley

I'm fan of this one, especially considering how low a price it can be found for. I like the combination of patchouli and leather and Bentley Intense doesn't disappoint. I agree the rum notes over the top are of a synthetic spice accord and the opening is stringent. But give it 30 minutes to settle and it's very pleasant. The later dry down smells fantastic IMO. Average sillage and 6 hours longevity. You'll be challenged to find many better fragrances at this price point. A thumbs up.


The Soft Lawn by Imaginary Authors

The Soft Lawn, 2.0 is a wet, green grass scent with a hint of florals and something slightly chalky (maybe tennis ball?) underneath. On initial opening it immediately made me think of Green Irish Tweed, but not as bright and then it quickly faded towards something more arboricultural with a leafy green accord. It's pleasant but not anything I want to wear for very long. Neutral for me.

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