Chunga by Weil

Floral aldehyde with slight spicy carnation bent.
Quite nice but very weak, instant skin scent.
Edt mini

Solos: Coriander by D.S. & Durga

A perfect example of the kind of "shrill, radiating" woody niche scent that is a style I rarely enjoy, sharp cedar (synth)dar, mashed with "feshness" (ambrox, salty notes) and pick your spice, here coriander.
Dozens in the genre, many better, few good.

Eau de Roche by Rochas

Eau de Roche is a traditional Eau de Cologne, juicy citruses, breath of civet, gentle flowers then poof, gone. Very nice.
According to another website released in 1946 created by Marcel Rochas himself, which sounds improbable as he was a fashion designer, reworked as Eau de Rochas by Nicolas Mamounas in 1970. I don't remember smelling that one but it sounds like a different composition altogether.

Libre Intense by Yves Saint Laurent

I do most of my designer sampling at airports when travelling, which usually means recoiling sharply from a lot of smelling strips and most of the time enduring an at best underwhelming scent for the length of what has now become the norm when flying, a hellish experience.
Very Pleasantly surprised by Libre Intense, I check basenotes, find Varanis's very positive review below and give a good sprayover to my daughter. After many hours in the sky we can confirm.
A wonderful modern feminine scent with yesteryears echoes, rich and classy but not stuck up. I wish it had a tad bit more lavender, but altogether a wonderful surprise.
Elixir first and now this, what the heck is going on??

Sauvage Elixir by Christian Dior

Well, screw me sideways I really like Elixir! I've been pretty vocal about my dislike of all the blue juices for years, and yet I kept trying and trying knowing there was something there, hoping I'd finally come across what I'm tempted to say "the one". Sauvage went the way of Bleu, caring even less for its different flankers than I did for the Chanels. The only one I liked altogether being BdC Parfum, but not enough to acquire it, a spray here and there when out and about being sufficient.
And I like Elixir for the same reasons I do BdC parfum and even more so, it has been stripped of most of the ambrox, scratchy "norliwoods", sweetness overload in the rest of the line, most but not all, it is cleverly grafted onto an old school papa barbershop fougere, that wouldn't be far off from a 1989 release, making it still feel modern and most of all pleasant. Not having to endure them as is usually the case for me for the sake of smelling contemporary (not that I usually do for more than the time it takes for a sample wear).
So Elixir smells pretty great and I would go get it right away if it was not for the price that's pretty steep, also something similar and possibly even better might be out there in the "niche" market for less dough. Will I cave or as with BdC parfum will I sit and wait? The answer probably hangs on how much a back up Monsieur Carven goes for these days...

Cool Water by Davidoff

1988, Cool Water, the beginning of the end… the primordial chemical soup that spawned thousands of calonic freshy laundry spikey noxious monsters that haunt us to this day.

Bulgari Man Wood Neroli by Bulgari

Pretty good Neroli Ambrox. Fresh, clean, very office friendly. Nothing amazing but thumbs up for being a modern mass designer I like which is quite rare.

Essencial Intenso Masculino by Natura

Excellent aromatic fougere in the Azzarro cannon. Good longevity, old school, virile and satisfying.
A good deal in Brazil.

Nightclubbing by Céline

The first thirty minutes of Nightclubbing are amazing, green tobacco ashes..and alcohol, maybe cognac with vanilla raising from the bottom. Be warned though the ashtray’s in this. It sounds like it could be wretched but it really dig it.
The latter part are more standard tobacco vanilla and not as original but solid.
Smokers should try to get a puff of this.

Parade by Céline

Neroli, white musks, vetiver plus some of that hot steam vaguely metallic arochem thing going. Clean and uninspiring.

Toy Boy by Moschino

So yeah, it's a modern designer masculine rose so points for that I guess but plonked on tons of woodyambers and Iso. Just awful.
Azzaro Acteur does that but smells good.

Vétiver (original) by Carven

A very nice vetiver, closest to Lanvin's in my collection, but without the massive civet that makes the Lanvin such a gem. Here it is a dryer and more properly chypresque (as in citrus chypre). I really like it, however the longevity is sadly absolutely dismal... Still worth it if found at a real bargain, since the Lanvin is so rare. Maybe the Givenchy which I smelled long ago is a better choice, but true vintages are hard to come by too. I should still get it to complete the old classic vetivers.

Royal de Rauch by Rauch

A note, since there's no reviews.
Royal is a soapy floral aldehyde, it smells pretty similar to Rive Gauche (71) on a side by side wrist test, the dry savon accord is coarser though which I enjoy and reminds me of Caleche as well, however I don't have any at hand to compare them.
It is good but not as good as either in any case.

Oud Minérale by Tom Ford

Had I known this was an aquatic I guess i would have passed as I don't like them pretty much universally, but running through the drug store to get emergency toothpaste I thought I'd get a spritz of this oud some some, as I don't dislike Oud Wood entirely and I do like Oud Wood Intense. The opening is underwhelming but ok with the titled Oud and minerality, saltishness and from there descended swiftly into olfactory hell. The calonic aqua ozoney mixed synthetic oud was just stomach turning and after a vigorous scrub remained unpleasant and relentless woodyambers that kept tormenting me for hours...

Or Black by Pascal Morabito

Dark oily, violet leaf and liquorice/anis and above all leather, as true as I've ever smelled, just great.
When I lived in NYC in the 90's and 00's, I've spent a few late nights at a leather bar called Rawhide, I'm sure it didn't reek of Or Black, but it should have.

Vintage mini

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

Beige age 90's "oriental". Oriental is not in quotation marks because I probably should try to find a better term to use for our times but because it's pretty far from anything I've used the fragrance qualification before. CMpH is mainly a clean tame"olive leaf"musk affair, coming after a fresh vaguely spicy opening. It's well made and inoffensive but altogether a bit middle of the road.
I've found that I'm pretty disinclined to soapy musks as they are for example used in Oscar de la Renta pour Lui, Eau de Rochas Homme, Eau de Campagne and Cartier's feminine Must itself . There's a sharp laundry freshness to them and to a lesser extant to Must pour Homme that makes me queasy sooner or later. This was a blind buy from the good reviews from some of our basenotes great reviewers, I can see what they see but unfortunately I'm not feeling it. If spices form the turn of the century is what I'm looking for, Envy or Carven Homme are what I'd reach for.

Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion

Classic citrus chypre over a light woody cedar base.
Very, very well done.
I've tried a few from Le Gallion and they were all excellent, the classic and quality ethos across the line is refreshing and commendable,

Saint-Germain-des-Prés by Céline

Neroli marshmallow, soft, very sweet and delicate, on a bed of heliotrope and light musks. It reminds me of Parle moi de Parfum Guimauve de Noel or a gourmand Penhaligon Castille.
I like it and I have a feeling my teenage daughter will too, despite neither of us being fans of overly sweet scents.
(she does)

Magie Noire by Lancôme

Dusky, spicy, dry, chypre oriental hybrid, razor slash of green top to bottom. Unsettling and bewitching.

Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer

Steep, elegant, chiseled green chypre, tightly blended flowers, none of which stands out and a great mossy base. The light, subtle leathery impression in the base comes from animalics, amber, sandalwood ... giving it an sensuous impression of peau d'espagne. Nothing of the stark leather of Cabochard or bandit here.
Quintessentially chypresque, wonderful.

Vintage mini

Dior Homme Parfum by Christian Dior

Dior Homme Parfum is one of the designer releases of the last few years that I really loved from first wear and came really close to purchasing, but always postponed doing so to a later date thinking it'd be there whenever I'd be ready. I'd get to wear it every few months passing through a department store or an airport. Then it was discontinued, then covid and next thing you know I couldn't find it anywhere and I felt as I did when Sycomore edt went, regretful.
I was lamenting when giving my impressions on Zegna Iris Florentine earlier this year that I hadn't encountered a masculine Iris centric fragrance that had the 70s 80s vintage treatment.
DHP is not it sadly, but by toning down the sweetness of DHI, upping the rose a bit (almost if not a la Egoiste) and adding a good amount of an almost IsoQuinolic leather we somewhat get in the vicinity. Don't get me wrong, the base is still heavy on "amberwoods" and not nearly as striking as the first third of the wear but I enjoy it and I guess I don't smell as "old man" as usual (not that I care).
I did managed to get me that long postponed bottle in the end. Quite happy, as I see it now going for 400 plus bucks on the net.I can't really make out the status of DHP, discontinued,75ml limited to Europe I don't know.

La Peau Nue by Céline

Excellent modern green chypre, with echoes of 19, Calandre... but modernised with un underlying powdery sweetness… Elegant and feminine, un parfum very rive gauche, 5 eme, Bom Marche elegance.
The aldehyde top is replaced by a “carrotey” iris, soon getting richer and more buttery, in the base a nice modern vetiver.
Very good

Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens

Opulent rich thick orange blossoms, narcotic tuberose, warm cumin.
Isn't it hot in here…?

Must de Cartier by Cartier

Must opens as a great oriental, complex and stuffed with many ingredients. What makes it original is how it's infused with a great green galbanum up top to mids. So far really interesting and wonderful. However the galbanum segues into a screetchy laundry musk towards the mids and base and at that point all the goodness that came before was lost.
I had done a good dousing and I came real close to jumping in the shower.

Vintage mini

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