Carboytony

Kasar by Téo Cabanel

On me, oud and saffron are the prominent notes. You do get a nice zest of citrus on the top notes, then oud, saffron and a hint of Leather. The labdanum, cedar, cinnamon, nutmeg and patchouli waft in and out pleasantly. I do get little teeny pulls of musk, just enough to make you get an inkling that is there. Sillage is great.


This is Not a Blue Bottle 1.3 by Histoires de Parfums

This is one of my top 5 fragrances. This little bottle has been in every vacation and business trip I've gone on in the past three years.

An opening salvo of juicy, lustful blood orange is made carnal - pornographic even - by saffron, itself exotic, wanton and growling. This duo is joined by a sweet, best heady rose note. Leather and patchouli, the bad girls and dirty boys of the fragrance world are your bed partners in the base notes. To me, this is an indolic fragrance, inherently lascivious, powerful, seductive and inviting.

I've heard people say it's not office friendly. Pshaw! Flaunt it, love it, ooze sex, after all, sans l'amour il n'y a que la mort.


Become the Shaman by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

This was created for Cafleurebon in 2017 as part of Project Talisman for the 7th Anniversary of the blog. The perfumes from the project are more pertinent now than ever.

Dawn used the animist and nature-based faiths of the indigenous Americans - North, South and Central - to create this amazing fragrance.

This is the best Palo Santo perfume I've ever smelled!

The top notes provide a sharp, green, true-to-life Milkweed accord, which takes me back to my childhood, breaking apart the Milkweed stalks to see the creamy, gummy "milk" inside. Then we move on to the ancient cleansing scent of Palo Santo, holy wood. It's creamy and smoky, purifying, cleansing and powerful. Hints of Copal and Guaiacwood accent the Palo Santo. Drydown further reveals wisps of tobacco, cedar and tonka. A little sweet, a little different wood texture.

A remarkable fragrance and I love it.


Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I'm not normally one for Iris scents, they don't fit well with my skin chemistry. This is an exception, the leather accord slays some of the misbehaviors of the Iris.

On my skin, it's definitely leather (suede to my nose) and Iris heavy, and it's a beautiful match. Sweet and floral lychee as well as peony come into focus, lightly, every now and then. An Eastern Incense smokily floats in the background, with hints of spiced chai - nuances of cardamom. Papyrus and vetiver, sharp and grassy escort you to the dregs of this fragrance.

Duchaufour is one of my, if not my favorite perfumer.


Onycha (A Solstice Scent) by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

A stunning incense fragrance, it smells golden to me, if that makes sense. There is this beautiful hint of salt to it as well. Dirty and leathery landanum in the base.

Another new favorite from Dawn!


Silver Sky by Alkemia Apothecary and Perfumery

This scent is part of the 2020 Spring Awakening Collection

This is the smell of a rainy spring day, the early and mid spring flowers abloom. A wonderful light, musky, and sightly salty rain accord marries with the intoxicating May Day scent of Muguet (Lily-of-the-Valley), lush Green Galbanum and softly sharp daffodil (Narcissus). Nuances of most heavenly Silver Needle Tea (BaihaobYinzhen) lurk politely and ravishingly in the background. An amberish cedar reveals itself in the drydown.


Peoneve by Penhaligon's

A brief note of Violet leaf quickly yields to the hearty, heady scents of Bulgarian Rose, Peony and Jasmine. These are bright and lush, in full bloom. The fragrance then softens into a musky vetiver and Cashmeran.

One of my favorite peony scents.


Malabah by Penhaligon's

This is a beautiful light tea fragrance.

Lemon and ginger form the tart pungent top notes, quickly paving the way for the astringent notes of steeped tea leaves - Earl Grey Tea to be exact. Hints of cardamom and nutmeg tantalize from a distance, adding a bit more spiciness to the ginger. A light, sweet rose adds a bit of floral beauty to this, and is accented by powdery orris. Warm amber and musk, commitments by bits of sandalwood round this down to a beautiful base.


Psychedelic Luau by Neil Morris Fragrances

Well Aloha, a Hawaiian party in a bottle!

You're invited to the party by sharp green notes, contrasted with sweet ripe bananas and tart lime and red currant. These notes transition into creamy white flowers, lactones and florals - Gardenia, Carnation, hints of Tuberose. An ozonic ocean, rather a seaside note embraces this fragrance, adding a lift and sparkle unto it. Pineapple and Guava notes waft about, enticing you to take a bite of their exotic splendor. At the base sits the psychedelic patchouli, along with powdery musks.


Winter Green by Dasein

This is a perfect winter night scent. Bracing, fresh wild mint is the prominent note on my skin. The smell of Christmas - Evergreen, stays close to the skin but wafts out every so often to remind you of its beauty. Pink peppercorn adds a zesty perk to this, while Pomelo zest as a sweet/tart tang. Light notes of Jasmine Sambac come into view in the drydown with the warm notes of beeswax.


Soliflore Ginger Lily by Dame Perfumery

This is such a tremendously gorgeous Lily. It's a powerhouse that will envelope you in the heady scents of a Ginger Lily opening. This unfolds beautifully and has a bit of a Honeysuckle now in the drydown. It's definitely a favorite and I had to buy a bottle the minute I tried my sample.


Oud Octavo by Prosody

To me, this is a very light oud, with Patchouli being more prominent.
A brief rush of Bergamot greets you in the top note, quickly moving into a carousel of patchouli, olibanum, labdanum, and cedar. All beautifully executed. Nuances of coconut add hints of sweetness every now and then. Oud, ever so slight, is ever permeating.


2020 The Year of the Sugar Mouse by 4160 Tuesdays

Sugary sweetness à la Cinder Toffee, warm, delicious; spicy aromatic saffron (one of my favorite notes ever); sweet, juicy exotic blood orange. Lovely and delicious. I can't stop smelling my wrists. I also want cinder toffee now haha


Paradis Provence by Shalini

What an absolutely beautiful perfume! The warm sensuous floral notes of Orange Blossom are accented with slight touches of Jasmine. There is a most delightful Olive Tree note, woody but mellow and airy. Lavender plays in the background with Sunflower and fresh Thyme.

An enchanting, intoxicating fragrance. A trip to Nice in a bottle.


Le Parfum d'Ida by Neil Morris Fragrances

Le Parfum d'Ida by Neil Morris as a tribute to his good friend and muse (and one hell of an awesome human) Ida Meister

Oh my goodness, where to begin. Another masterpiece by Neil. The perfume is as beautiful as it's namesake.

Opening notes of blackberry and elemi are made to pop with aldehydes and hints of clove. They transition you into a heady floral heart with Geranium, Gardenia, Hyacinth, Narcissus and Ylang Ylang. Oh the florals, so intense, so alive! The base is stunning as well: Resinous myrrh, beautiful Russian Leather, the ionones of Orris enhanced with the beautiful dirtiness of Civet.

Simply amazing and a true work of art.


Eternity Flame for Men by Calvin Klein

On my skin, this has the distinct Eternity DNA that runs through the line. It's a leather note scent, enhanced by sweet, sharp pineapple in the top notes, herbal rosemary in the middle and dark, deep labdanum in the base.


Freak by Illamasqua

This is a soft-spoken yet powerful floral, dark with mystery and best-unspoken deeds. Black Davana, Datura, Poison Hemlock, Belladona with an incense base.


Métal Hurlant by Pierre Guillaume

This is one of my best blind buys. I just adore this, though I can see why a lot of people say it's not for them.

I could try and break down the accords Pierre created into individual materials or notes I detect. But I'm not going to - it's much more fun to tell you what I really get, what he wanted to convey.

This was created to evoke riding a Harley through the Arizona desert. I'm not a bike guy, but I am car guy, so we're going to pretend it's a '65 Impala with the Caprice package instead.

This opens strong, it's in your face Detroit muscle. To me it's a big gasoline (petrol) vibe, slightly floral, slightly plasticky, but altogether heart-racing. You can hear that big V8 idling, ready to hit the road. It's freshly washed and waxed steel - the hood (bonnet) hot from both the beast within and the pounding desert sun, waves of refraction rising from it, menacing, dangerous. It's the chrome, glistening in the heat, its metallic majesty tingling the nose, mixing with the intoxicating exhaust, as beautiful and deadly as Belladona blossoms. It's the leather - animalic, sexy, powerful, hormonal. It's the tires, the plastics in the interior, adding to that repulsive yet irrestible petroleum note.


Noir de Noir by Tom Ford

This definitely has the TF DNA in it, there's a certain je ne sais quoi about the TF scents, but you can definitely tell that they're family.

On my skin this is a sweet rose, almost fruity in scent feel. I get a good dose of leathery saffron and slighter nuances of entrancing oud as we get deeper into the drydown. Truffle adds a bit of earthiness as does the hints of patchouli that emerge towards the base. Oakmoss resides at the base and helps pull the strings on this fragrance to hold it together.


Terra by Vince Camuto

This is what I'd call a warm woody fragrance. I get a good dose of citrus in the top notes and into the drydown. Hints of rhubarb shimmer through, and then sandalwood and tonka take the stage. Vanilla embraces those notes to add a touch of sweet warmth to it and help your it all up.


Nectar Boisé by Motif Olfactif

This is a delicious spring and summer scent.

On my skin I pick up ionones in the opening, as well as what seem like floral notes. Then as we drydown luscious ripe fruits pervade, tropical fruits and some berries are what I get. These sweet fruits mingle with creamy sandalwood, giving this a beautiful warmth. In the base notes the sandalwood is really alive, accompanied by grassy vetiver, dark landanum and hints of Tolu Balsam


Over The Chocolate Shop - Dark Cherry & Almond by 4160 Tuesdays

The luscious divine scent of cocoa, with hints of coffee, hazelnut, and vanilla is enhanced with the seductive sweetness of Dark Cherry, and the slight sweet bitterness of almond.


De Toma à Zouma by Motif Olfactif

On my skim I'm pushing something very, very animalic, but that's my weird skin, so I'll discount the and describe the best that I can.

This scent is freshly ground coffee beans, complimented by the warm, gourmand notes of cardamom, nutmeg, cocoa, and vanilla. It's like a coffee chai! Benzoin is also very prominent for me, it adds a brisk, sharp note, a nice contrast to the gourmand notes.


Eau de Mandarine Ambrée by Hermès

This is a beautiful warm Mandarin Orange scent. I wouldn't describe it as a juicy fragrance, it's drier, more like a fresh Mandarin, hanging ripened on the branch and with the woody and leafy nuances. The amber is pronounced on my skin and pairs really, really well with this. It adds warmth and softens the sweetness and sharpness of the Mandarin. The Passionfruit lends it's presence in the drydown, exotic, sweet and fruity.

Spray it on your clothing to get added longevity.

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