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Jaguar (original) by Jaguar

this is a spicy,aromatic,virile powerbomb with a high recognition value- one spritz that last forever with an unbelievable intensity !
As I always say, a perfume is something very personal- either you like it or not.
Jaguar is a typical scent of the end 80ties: powerhouse fragrance similar to oscar de la renta pour lui, duc de virvins by houbigant, egoiste platinum by chanel etc.
To me this fragrance is quite ordinary and simple ( already the name.....you think jaguar drivers would choose this fragrance as a signature fragrance? I don´t think so!)
One splash of Jaguar and it kills you with it´s power -already the opening is too strong, too heavy, too aromatic and too spicy-too much of everything and this is what I detest-it is not refined, subtle,etc.-it´s too linear! Having a look at virile and handsome scents you may think of azzarro, devin, aramis and yatagan and even the very special kouros but in comparison to Jaguar these fragrances are much more interesting and taste definitely better in a well rounded manner- and are more pleasing.Maybe Kouros stands out but it is definitely more exciting and challenging than Jaguar.
Nevertheless Jaguar ( what a horrible name for a scent?!)is in comparison to all these light aquamarine metrosexual trash of these days a spirited attempt- it´s a man´s scent-no doubt! - genuine, authentic and masculine! Which company would dare to launch such a scent 2011- no one!!! 2011 perfumes are all exchangeables.......


Knize Forest by Knize

green fougere similar to Green Irish Tweed by Creed- to my mind better.
Nothing exciting and inspiring-quite linear scent.I personally dislike the imbalance of this fragrance ( well explained by Bartlebooth!)- unfortunately I dislike GIT too- so it´s not a surprise!


Green Irish Tweed by Creed

Despite all the amazing reviews GIT is to me one of the most overrated fragrances I ever met.This scent, an aromatic herbal fragrance becomes ( on my skin!) quite sour. harsh and bitter.It reminds on Egoiste Platinum,Tsar and Cool water- all fragrances launched at the same time.


Knize Two by Knize

the roses and the violets are killing me!!!!...................this is a light floral !aldehydic grey flannel in a bed of roses............it reminds me of a feminine perfume ..........was it tresor by lancome ?or even bois des iles by chanel? it´s well done and unique but a better choice for a woman- soft,sensual, warm and too smooth in the drydown.


Jacomo de Jacomo Original by Jacomo

woody,aromatic and spicy scent.Strong,long lasting and dark fragrance.Powerful,complex opening -the drydown pleasant but still vibrant and energetic.Typical masculine scnet of the 80ties.It´s a unique scent with a high recall value.I personally dislike the persistent smoky and incense smell.
Beside all criticism this is a very particular and interesting scent, maybe a bit dated and linear (it opens the same as it ends and you smell all the time this smoky incense note) but in comparison to all the simple, silly and sober light marine -aquatic unisex stuff launched today ( so often I am imaging myself some nerds and muppets standing in a pea-soup designing all this trash making the fool of themselves and ourselves !)
Jacomo is still a singular statement ! ( 31 years on the market!).Good work!



Cefiro by Floris

clean,proper,citrus,feminine.already the package is feminine!
this is a boring, very linear and simple fragrance.
The suspense, the complexity,the recognition value etc. are missing-the opening is the drydown- a quite crisp,fresh lemon start and that´s it- it stays that way all the time.Another huge disappointment!A fragrance on an unbelievable low level!Don´t waste your money!



Duc de Vervins by Houbigant

spice,amber,oakmoos,citrus well put together to an aromatic scent.It reminds me of Tsar,Egoiste Platinum,Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne and Drakkar noir!-very similar.The opening is fresh and spicy-nice.The dry-down is the same : aromatic-fresh-green.I like the fragrance and although it´s quite particular and special in comparison to the fragrances being launched nowadays Duc de Virvins remains very linear all the time-powerful aromatic spicy fresh opening on quite a high level but then nothing else happens: long-lasting,strong and no further progress or evolution.A man´s fragrance- a virile simple but well done scent.The more I smell it the more I want something to happen but this fragrance stays the same all the time.At the end I was bored and bugged- okay, maybe this was never the intention of Duc de Virvins but I expect more-Duc de Virvins: an aristocratic promising sound and a bottle with golden letters- even more promising but this fragrance does not satisfy my expectations.It´s singular but remains on a mediocre level!


Versace l'Homme by Versace

I rememeber when this scent came out- the roaring 80ties and Gianni Versace at the summit of his fame.Warm, sensual somehow sweet and soapy.It opens quite fresh (lemon!), in the middle notes you feel sandalwood, cinnamon, cedar and patchouli and the base notes include oakmoss, vanilla and leather.The ingredients a very well put together.
The fragrance is a classic and good but I personally dislike the soapy warm part of this fragrance-it´s not edgy, not weird- cedar, patchouli, amber etc. ?! at a certain point give this scent a soft, sticky, smooth and a bit greasy touch.The opening already gives you a sign : it´s fresh but quickly turn into this mellow, soapy sweet and slippery something and I see these vain, too good looking and slipper as an eel adonis types of the typical Versace advertisments in their colourfully painted shirts.....it´s their scent and it belongs to a certain era and a certain type of man.Versace realized perfectly his vision and it´s his signature and this I appreciate-the scent bears his hallmark! But nevertheless the scent meanders along and the rough edges are missing......


Lacoste (original) by Lacoste

fresh aromatic scent.simple, clear, a bit dated but good.this fragrance does not claim to be more! It´s a sports fragrance - not less not more.
I prefer Duc de virvins by Houbigant, you may also try Egoiste Platinum by Chanel, Tsar by van cleef etc.
In comparison to all the trash scents launched in these days claiming to be unisex-light-aquatic etc.etc. this is still a fragrance with a statement - a good but not an exciting and outstanding male! sports fragrance - that´s what Lacoste wanted to be!


Habit Rouge by Guerlain

This is without a doubt one of the greatest creations in perfume history-an unbelievable complex scent, classified as oriental woody.The opening already is incredible: a fresh citrus-orange.The heart note includes cinnamon, woods and flowers- the composition is so unbelievable interesting and fascinating:a complexity and variety of notes : fresh, warm, sensual,oriental - a never ending story of feelings and emotions contrasting with so many different nuances of smells- an olfactory assault in the positive sense!Habit Rouge is and will remain forever a milestone in perfume making- an outstanding and unique scent -sophisticated, classic and perfect whether you like or not-everyone has to admit that Mr.Guerlain is a genius and Habit Rouge is a masterpiece!
Personally I appreciated this scent for a long time- it´s a good fragrance for autumn and winter and suitable for a conservative,aristocratic,elegant 40+.
Nevertheless I prefer more the rude, weird and edgy scents- the rougher and darker perfumes scents.About Habit Rouge I dislike the intensity of the oranges and the remaining sweetness.The fragrance is sticky, warm and so smooth.....It has this aristocratic and upper class touch.Someone said Habit Rouge is Shalimar for men-right! If you like these floating soft and tender fragrances this is your scent.Heavy,opulent,full flavoured- vanilla and powdery!- this is mozart and only mozart! A beautiful perfume perfectly orchestrated ,very sophisticated and official.
I miss the suspense, the tension, the excitement,the disturbance,unease,restlessness and rough edges but this is my personal opnion and taste.Habit Rouge is an alltime classic, very pleasing with perfect manners but don´t we all look for a bad side and are we not attracted by the rough edges of something??!!!


Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

to love a perfume will always remain a very singular and personal decision.To be honest kouros is definitely very singular,remarkable, unique and has a high recognition value no matter what you feel when you smell this very special scent!And folks admit that in comparison to all those similar,boring,light, unisex fragrances being produced today for men this scent ! absolutely stands out.Kouros is an impact / assault on your senses- either it captivates your senses or it disgusts and discomfits.It´s an aromatic fougere but so different-azarro is an aromatic fougere too, the same is paco rabanne pour homme but these scents are more pleasing and easier.....Kouros is a challenge : loud, provocative,strong-it cracks your senses with an enormous power.It has something dirty and irritating- people feel giddy , even repelled.The opening is so complex, so inviting, so particular- you don´t find such fragrances anymore nowadays- all this aquatic nonsense, synthetic and artificial stuff- Kouros is matchless and exceptional-I personally disliked first the drydown- it becomes soapy, creamy(but the more you wait and keeping patient this scent pleases more and more but remains always weird and spooky , intense and powerful- this scent disallows you to breathe -this scent remains on the fast track accelarating more and more.I guess this is what people dislike about Kouros - this scent stays unpredictable- but isn´t it exciting?Apart from all personal emotions - Kouros is a milestone in perfume making - a unique and outstanding fragrance whether you like it or not.If you dislike this fragrance? then try Tuscany,azarro for men, D&G for men,Lauder for men, Paco Rabanne pour Homme- these scents are more friendly......but still unique!Kouros is Bartok,Schönberg and Alban Berg mixed up with Beethoven and a little bit Mozart- if you only want to listen to Mozart then Azarro is the first choice! But if you look for something very special and really particular then Kouros is perfect!- and wait.......this scent needs time to develop.......absolutely great stuff! I love it!!!


154 by Jo Malone London

I love classical fragrances like Vetiver by Guerlain, Eau sauvage by Dior, Azarro by Azarro, Gentleman by Givenchy, Aramis by Aramis, Devin by Aramis, Yatagan by Caron etc.You smell them and it´s wow- great frag! But the mentionned fragrances have been launched in 60-70ties!
I am desperately waiting for a great fragrance from nowadays that captures me !
So I tried this colgne and I expected too much- it was a huge disappointment- a very sad experience.
Okay, it´s a cologne- nothing exciting, nothing thrilling- an average cologne-not more not less!
Aromatic, fresh opening but the drydown is herbal, acid and synthetic- even sharp and bitter.Even if you spray it in a room- the smell is okay but it is the same old story :
Great package, great name but nothing but hot air.
Did you ever smell cuir de russie, cristalle, bandit , tabac blond, givenchy III, eau de calandre, le dix, diorella,quadrille etc.etc.- you will never ever forget these perfumes- they are so refined, subtle and all have been developped with a heart and great-souled-unbelievable masterpieces - you can´t get enough and you want to dive into these fragrances!
But Colgne 154 is a sad, poor, simple ordinaryand artificial colgne!What a poor and sad work!
Jacques Polge from Chanel did a great work for the ladies ( somehow unisex): a cologne- have a try - this one is a really good cologne - with style and class!Capeau Mr.Polge! And in 2007?!...................


Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

a woody floral musk compistion that includes in the list of ingredients :violet-leaf, lily of the valley,amber , musk, lemon, cedar,mandarin orange etc.- a special and unique mixture!
Either you love it or you hate it- I personally dislike this fragrance but I have to admit that Fahrenheit is a singular, exciting and does not become boring.
It is intense, strong and I smell mainly and permanently the dominating lily of the valley/violet leaves- it reminds me of the great Grey Flannel by G.Beene- this can be burdening specially if you look for diversion.This is not an easy going scent, not a smooth harmony- in between it´s dissonant ( the overloaded violet leaves ?!)Anyway it is a good perfume, individual and particular .


Green Water by Jacques Fath

no matter what the people say, green water by jacques fath is a good aromatic green scent.this is a crispy,fresh,well balanced classical scent you can wear at any time without disturbing other people.To all who complain about the " old fashioned way" or " old school style " etc.- this fragrance has been launched 1947!What do you expect?! Something like A-man by mugler??!This fragrance is still on the market - 64years!!!
It´s a nice scent with an interesting green opening- okay it´s a bit different to other green scents.... the dry-down is floral elegant, warm and very pleasant.On one hand this fragrance is fresh,green,and aromatic and on the other hand it´s so warm and sensual. It´s not my first choice but it´s an option.I prefer Eau sauvage by Dior.


Oscar de la Renta pour Lui by Oscar de la Renta

spicy-fruity-leather powerhouse fragrance of the 80ties.It stands in a line with azarro pour homme,yatagan by caron, devin by aramis, trussardi pur homme, kouros by YSL, Zino by Davidoff.
unbelievable strong, intense, long-lasting and great sillage.very masculine.
The approach to this fragrance ends up in a love-hate relationship: this is a great, unique and very special scent and already the opening is overwhelming: an overloaded blust of a unique compilation of fruits,leather,musk,oakmoos,sandalwood etc.etc.but still the drydown is so strong and severe, even violent -like a thunder storm !
You´re waiting for the calm and the silence but this fragrance keeps up top speed and it makes you speach- and restless. you haven´t time to breathe hard and this is for me the crucial point why I personally prefer azarro,trussardi, van cleef etc.- these fragrances end up in a more settled character-they are more refined and subtle and not a permanent assault of your senses.(pour lui is an olfactory explosion!)
Pour lui is a great fragrance but it´s beethoven and wagner mixed up top speed!




Antaeus by Chanel

woody chypre fragrance.great opening- full flavoured, aromatic, strong and powerful- the drydown won´t disappoint you either- animalic, masculine and all in all a warm, spicy and delicious perfectly composed fragrance.classic and timeless.
Masterpiece of Jacques Polge- having a look at the garbage that is launched actually by Chanel- all these synthetic,boring aquatic theme garbage it is out of all reason to me why Mr.Polge who did this amazing perfume isn´t anymore able to launch a perfume worthy of Chanel.I mean Allure, Allure Homme Sport, Edition Blanche-what a synthetic, cheap and vulgar trash- why is it not possible to launch a comparable fragrance???!!Does it have to be always mainstream and fulfilling the needs of a market??!! What a poor explanation.......Mr Polge, you have done such great works! Please make something extraordinary and special- a really good Chanel scent 2012!!!!
By the way- I have the impression that Antaeus has been toned down ......sad....
And if you like this one, Van Cleef and Arpels pour homme you will love too.





No. 89 by Floris

very very traditional woody aromatic scent.
very english, very conservative, old school, and a bit dated- nevertheless this is a classic fragrance for an older man.
It stands in a line with fragrances of a time where a man smelled a bit of a barbershop : soapy-sandalwood, lavender,musk , citrus etc were allowed as ingredients .If you like the older scents by Creed, Penhaligon´s,etc. you will appreciate this understated, discreet and unspectacular well done fragrance too.
I personally dislike this kind of empty and uninteresting fragrances- they are in a way unique but I miss the vital spark, the glimmer that infects me- this fragrances does not captivate my senses.By way of apology it has to be said that this fragrance does not claim to be captivating , innovative etc.- it´s a classic scent of another time but definitely outstanding in comparison to all the mud which is produced nowadays e.g. the non ending aquatic theme and cheap copies of cool water etc.


Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma

fresh aromatic citrus scent.nothing exciting, a disappointing variation of the original.
the opening is a fresh and light citrus and floral bouquet.The dry down is more aromatic (musk).Quite sweet and better suited for a a young woman.
This is another intersting story.Due to it´s huge success with the original colonia and it´s definitely a good golonia but not more and thanks god it pretends not to be more, they began to launch one edt after the other : assolute, essenza, intensa- what is coming next and do we need all this stuff?
Colonia assoluta is a sweet,soapy colonia that has promising opening but then it changes totally to an annoying and burdening fragrance and you want to get rid of this intense smell.In the beginning I thought-wow, a light summer breeze - fresh,crispy but the longer you´re surrounded by this scent the more it becomes a burden and it looses it´s lightness- a citrus summer scent as it is intended to be should be light at any time.
Here the summer breeze turns into a sticky synthetic something.The longer I wear the more i feel uncomfortable.


Yatagan by Caron

there is nothing more to add! All has been said!
a real man´s scent- handsome, virile, singular and powerful.oriental woody-full flavoured, very aromatic scent.a timeless classic from a time when really unique perfumes where still launched- this scent stands in a line with azzaro pour homme( similar), habit rouge, troisieme homme by caron, pour un homme by caron, eau sauvage by dior, grey flannel and habit rouge- alltime classics ! Hall of Fame of Perfume!
Yatagan : great and simple bottle, charismatic butch scent-that´s how it should be!!!!
This fragrance is comparable to Devin by Aramis but better.
And the first choice for a desert island!


Colonia Intensa by Acqua di Parma

woody aromatic fresh edt.
the opening is at first sniff a bit medical harsh but quickly turns into a light version of encre noir with a bit of la nuit by YSL and terre d´hermes wishing it would become the brilliant and ingenious further development of eau sauvage (diorella) but far from it - it remains a cheap effort....eau sauvage, dirella,cristalle, Y, etc. will always remain unique and unreachable icons.
Colonia intensa makes such an effort to be good but at the end it´s a huge disappointing scent, not bad but not what it intendend to be.It´s an intense somehow fresh scent with a harsh spicy note- in the beginning you like it but you wait for more and expect - and in the end it´s thicky, nerving and exhausting.
The whole trick of an inmortal perfume is a spectacular opening and a dry down that keeps the promises of the great opening and colonia ssoluta fails.It lacks of personality and singularity- it stands in the line of allure by chanel, terre d´hermes,tom ford for men etc.- all scents that aren´t bad but replaceable and exchangeable!alfarom has given a perfect description.And colonia assoluta remains despite such an effort uncharismatic and dull


Quercus by Penhaligon's

sweet citrus scent od simple structure.powdery soapy drydown after a citrus-floral? opening.feminine touch.Nothing to dream about or to expect more.This scent is boring, indifferent and trivial.
If you look for a good fresh summer scent then try Eau sauvage, Diorella,Cristalle!,Original Monsieur de Balmain ( if you love lemons...), Pour homme by YSL or even Pour monsieur by Chanel.Eau de Givenchy, Eau Fraiche by Dior, Eau de Chanel ,Eau de Lancome and Eau der Guerlain are interesting options too and much more interesting


Fougère Royale by Houbigant

aromatic fougere.relaunched after a reorchestration and reinterpretation of the original scent and available!
this is a very luxurious and lush scent, powerful rich and aromatic.Very complex, interesting but to my mind too overrunning and breathtaking.You don´t see the forrest for the trees.There are so many different ingredients (incredible),the opening is already a firework of flavouruing ingredients but on top the drydown is an intoxicating thunder storm of contents;although the perfumer is offering a unique rework of a fern-like scent this fougere royale is nonetheless simply said too much- I personally miss the the undertones, the refine and subtle moments and calm moments- this remains a powerful and vigorous symphony played by a huge orchestra that does not keep on my toes.It´s a restless scent, long lasting powerhouse bouquet of aromatic ingredients.What I appreciate is the risk of offering a really intersting scent in a world of boring light aquatic metrosexual perfumes but if you ask for my personal fougere choice I´d rather recommend azarro por homme, estee lauder for men , tuscany etc.-these are better balanced and more pleasant.


Voyage d'Hermès by Hermès

fresh woody floral musk composition.unisex with a feminine touch....
green fresh opening : you smell the citrus, grapefruit-quite nice, summer feeling, pleasant and well balanced -it reminds me so much of declaration by cartier.The dry down is woody, a bit harsh, cardammon?,floral and musky.Nicely done but nothing else!
Great bottle!Unique- but do we expect this summit of a creation from the great Jean-Claude Ellena for the absolutely luxury brand-the icon of luxury goods : Hermes?!
Hermes this is pure luxury : unique handbags and leather goods,amazing silk ties and scarfs etc.etc.
And to name some of the really outstanding perfumes of this sophisticated traditional and timeless french! company as Caleche, Eau d´Hermes, Equipage, Bel ami that really match with this luxurious brand Voyage is satisfactory but mediocre- to my mind this is not typical Hermes- probably they want to reach a younger class of buyers by launching all these jardin de.....perfumes and on top selling them as unisex scents but in the long run it will fail.Chanel -on the female side- has demonstrated it´s innovative mind by launching modern scents conserving the tradition and the legacy of Coco Chanel- Jacques Polge has done great works for the female buyers.
But Hermes starts selling it´s spirit in order to meet the market needs forgetting their brilliant history.... Perfume is always a very sensitive and personal impression but instead of launching one nice but simple and forgettable edt after the other why is this company not able to launch a brilliant scent that makes us dreám of more including the rich and unique history of this singular french firm?!You remember the time when Eau d Hermes was only available in France?
These were still times when a perfume was something very special, unique and particular....Voyage as so many other perfumes of our time -NOTHING TO GET EXCITED ABOUT!!!


Colonia Essenza by Acqua di Parma

Acqua di Parma´s original colonia is a fresh, light and lovely summer scent.due tu it´s incredible success this company launches one edt after the other with a similar structure.Colonia Essenza is the last one and the most disappointing one!
It´s still an aromatic citrus scent, quite a crispy fresh opening but then it turns into a warm, sensual, powdery and soapy perfume.I personally dislike this drydown which is so soft floral and -as it has been mentionned- talc-y!It´s not bad but definitely nothing exciting or outstanding.It is the reinterpretation of the the original them of the classic colonia but failed.In comparison to the other scents of the company I prefer colonia assoluta!

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