Patou Pour Homme (new) by Jean Patou

My expectations for the new Patou Pour Homme were low, but when I sampled it, I liked it and bought a bottle.

When I was trying the sample, I didn’t think it smelled like Patou Pour Homme or Hugo. I just thought it smelled interesting, and pretty good. I couldn’t stop smelling it.

From my bottle, I’m able to pick it apart more, and it is like an updated Patou Pour Homme crossed with Hugo.

The notes from Hugo make it smell so different that it can strike the heart as a betrayal. But then if someone sort of likes Hugo, this could be perfect.

On top of being a better version of Hugo, into the base it smells somewhat similar to the original Patou Pour Homme from 1980.

In addition to Hugo, this also sometimes brings to mind Azzaro Chrome or Chanel Platinum Egoiste. It smells like they wanted to include some popular aroma chemicals from the 1990s, at least in the top.

Another thing: this is nowhere close to as strong as the 1980 version. 40% of the volume. But - it does smell like the original in the base. It is Patou Pour Homme.

Sport de Paco Rabanne by Paco Rabanne

I was confident I would like this, but it's closer to a thumbs down than a thumbs up. The "green" aspect of this isn't working for me. There is some good stuff in the mix, but the main accord is not of interest to me.

Wall Street by Victor

Wall Street doesn't last long, but I like it that way. It's a nice perfume in the style of Lancome Balafre. I've been going around in circles about whether to get a bottle. It's a good one, but I have more perfume than I can use. It would fit right in with my collection.

Monogram by Ralph Lauren

I'm trying to figure out why I like Monogram (1985) so much. I think it might be a variation on some other favorite perfumes such as Antaeus (1981), Antaeus Sport (1985), and Ho Hang Club (1987), which would help explain it. A little sweet, a little smoky. Polite and dressy. Mouthwatering.

It also reminds me of Aramis JHL, a sweet, musky, smoky, woody fragrance. But this is the hip version. It’s a bit like Antaeus meets JHL, with a pronounced sweet animalic floral similar to Antaeus and Ho Hang Club, and with the laundry type musks in Antaeus Sport (which also has a similar floral).

Programme Homme by Lancôme

Lancome Programme Homme is a smooth, easy-to-like fragrance. Polite and dressy. A fairly simple perfume, but nice. The smell gets close to powder, but stays restrained and masculine.

Perry Ellis for Men (original) by Perry Ellis

I can see the appeal of Perry Ellis for Men, but something in the mix is off for my tastes, at least in the opening. After some development, it is nicer and right in the neighborhood of Gucci Pour Homme and Derby. Because the base is so nice, I'm going for a thumbs up. (This is Basenotes, after all).

Sybaris by Antonio Puig

Sybaris is a big perfume. To me, it is impressively animalic (or some equivalent). Super-powered with the stuff. And then there's a bit of sugar and spice to make the flavor. It starts sort of like Armani, with a screaming animalic that's enough to make me chuckle.

I like it. It's an exciting perfume to have such a big presence, but to still be mostly sweet and loveable. It's sort of like Aramis JHL. I probably like this more than JHL.

Marbert Homme by Marbert

This perfume, Marbert Homme, is a winner. To me, it's a subtle one in the same way I experience Cartier Santos. It seems to become a skin scent fairly quickly, and then it smells super agreeable in the faint, deep base. Faint, but heavenly. A bit like a faint, dressy Old Spice.

This has a super confident smell, the way I perceive it. I couldn't take it very seriously if someone told me they didn't like it. It smells just right to me. I don't think I'm going to hunt down a bottle because I already have so much perfume and most of it I like just as much as this, but otherwise, this is something I would like to have and wear on a regular basis.

Coromandel Parfum by Chanel

We have a bottle of this that is going down fast and we've decided to go for another one. And we got a big compliment on it in line at the bakery. It's like a cleaned-up version of Coromandel. Simplified. We like this parfum more than the edp. I like it as something in the tradition of Egoiste, a Chanel oriental.

Derviche by Rogue Perfumery

A big thumbs up for this release, the original Derviche. There is some undeniably good stuff in the mid and base, such as jasmine, and the sweet pipe-tobacco note. It smells a bit wild in the opening, but it's worthwhile to get to the best parts.

Tobacolor by Christian Dior

A strong, interesting perfume, but not quite for me. My wife says it’s in a similar spirit to Le Lion de Chanel, a big, darkly sweet smell that’s good for autumn.

Super longevity: a day later and it’s still going strong. It has a bit of a tobacco feel that’s promising at first, but I’m over it from this never-ending wearing.

Ralph's Club by Ralph Lauren

I’m saying neutral because I liked it enough to spray some on, but I got eviscerated by my companion(s) for wearing this: “Like an Abercrombie and Fitch store, which I couldn’t stand, but five times worse. It’s giving me a headache. It’s making me sick. I hate it.”

Vetiver by Lorenzo Villoresi

During the opening 20 minutes, Villoresi Vetiver has a menthol / Vicks Vap-o-Rub smell, which isn't a problem, but I don't think it's gripping enough to be something I would want to wear regularly. After some development, it's a nice, soft, agreeable perfume.

Le Gemme : Falkar by Bulgari

An interesting equestrian leather perfume. It’s edgy in the opening, but not quite over the top. It’s fairly linear and mostly wearable. The longevity ends up being too much for me and the base has more harshness than I was hoping for.

Sedona Sweet Grass by Providence Perfume Co.

This is a sweet, smoky perfume that hits the spot for me. It smells like the promise of small batch production with better, more complex ingredients.

Notes by Robert Piguet

The scratchy forever woods in the base is not my style. I smell this kind of thing out and about. I wouldn't want to wear it again.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés by Céline

Heliotrope is the main note I'm getting, and then a Dior Homme-style vanilla base (similar to the base of Celine Black Tie). It's a fine perfume, but fairly typical and not overly exciting. For heliotrope, I might prefer Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver or Chanel Boy.

Eau de Californie by Céline

I'm not getting much from Eau de Californie. It's underwhelming. It seems to have typical mass-market aroma-chemicals - scratchy woods - but in a light dose. I might be anosmic to it, but it happened right away in the opening.

Cologne Française by Céline

This smells like a success: a traditional cologne with a signature twist. It has some of the harshness from the opening of vintage Santos Concentree, but it's dialed back to just a hint of harshness. In this case, it's coming across as character instead of character flaw.

Nightclubbing by Céline

I’m finding this a bit off-putting, although I think that might be what they were going for - smokers frequent this night club.

Polo Crest by Ralph Lauren

I can't always smell this as I'm wearing it, which is a drawback, but when I can smell it, I love it. Sometimes it comes across as almost too similar to original Polo, but other days it seems like the perfect flanker.

Vetyver Lanvin (new) by Lanvin

I find this similar to Hugo from 1995. It is much the same idea, and I find myself liking both. There is a slight twist in this version that I like - a tiny hint of funk. Nautica Blue is also coming to mind, which I also like fairly well.

Orphéon by Diptyque

This starts out as a screechy, fruity, musky synthetic. It evolves into a decent sandalwood-type base.

This kind of synthetic reminds me of recently sampling the Ralph Lauren higher-priced line with a similar unapologetically sharp, billowing synthetic vibe.

Calvin by Calvin Klein

This smells fairly typical of men's perfume in 1981, meaning it's good. A couple things crossing my mind are Davidoff and Quorum - this doesn't smell like those, quite, but there's something common among them, I think.

This is also reminding me of vintage Dior for women, almost like a version of Diorella for men.

Whereas Jacomo de Jacomo, another similar fragrance, goes a little too dark too early for me, Calvin slowly meanders in that direction after an initial blast of soap.

Santos. That's what this is reminding of the most after a few more days of sampling. This is like a stronger version of Santos with a slight twist. Calvin is what I would have liked Santos Concentree to smell like. As it was, I did not like Santos Concentree, so it's Calvin to the rescue as a longer-lasting Santos alternative.

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