Bavard

Tobacolor by Christian Dior

A strong, interesting perfume, but not quite for me. My wife says it’s in a similar spirit to Le Lion de Chanel, a big, darkly sweet smell that’s good for autumn.

Super longevity: a day later and it’s still going strong. It has a bit of a tobacco feel that’s promising at first, but I’m over it from this never-ending wearing.


Ralph's Club by Ralph Lauren

I’m saying neutral because I liked it enough to spray some on, but I got eviscerated by my companion(s) for wearing this: “Like an Abercrombie and Fitch store, which I couldn’t stand, but five times worse. It’s giving me a headache. It’s making me sick. I hate it.”


Vetiver by Lorenzo Villoresi

During the opening 20 minutes, Villoresi Vetiver has a menthol / Vicks Vap-o-Rub smell, which isn't a problem, but I don't think it's gripping enough to be something I would want to wear regularly. After some development, it's a nice, soft, agreeable perfume.


Le Gemme : Falkar by Bulgari

An interesting equestrian leather perfume. It’s edgy in the opening, but not quite over the top. It’s fairly linear and mostly wearable. The longevity ends up being too much for me and the base has more harshness than I was hoping for.


Sedona Sweet Grass by Providence Perfume Co.

This is a sweet, smoky perfume that hits the spot for me. It smells like the promise of small batch production with better, more complex ingredients.


Notes by Robert Piguet

The scratchy forever woods in the base is not my style. I smell this kind of thing out and about. I wouldn't want to wear it again.


Saint-Germain-des-Prés by Céline

Heliotrope is the main note I'm getting, and then a Dior Homme-style vanilla base (similar to the base of Celine Black Tie). It's a fine perfume, but fairly typical and not overly exciting. For heliotrope, I might prefer Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver or Chanel Boy.


Eau de Californie by Céline

I'm not getting much from Eau de Californie. It's underwhelming. It seems to have typical mass-market aroma-chemicals - scratchy woods - but in a light dose. I might be anosmic to it, but it happened right away in the opening.


Cologne Française by Céline

This smells like a success: a traditional cologne with a signature twist. It has some of the harshness from the opening of vintage Santos Concentree, but it's dialed back to just a hint of harshness. In this case, it's coming across as character instead of character flaw.


Nightclubbing by Céline

I’m finding this a bit off-putting, although I think that might be what they were going for - smokers frequent this night club.


Polo Crest by Ralph Lauren

I can't always smell this as I'm wearing it, which is a drawback, but when I can smell it, I love it. Sometimes it comes across as almost too similar to original Polo, but other days it seems like the perfect flanker.


Vetyver Lanvin (new) by Lanvin

I find this similar to Hugo from 1995. It is much the same idea, and I find myself liking both. There is a slight twist in this version that I like - a tiny hint of funk. Nautica Blue is also coming to mind, which I also like fairly well.


Orphéon by Diptyque

This starts out as a screechy, fruity, musky synthetic. It evolves into a decent sandalwood-type base.

This kind of synthetic reminds me of recently sampling the Ralph Lauren higher-priced line with a similar unapologetically sharp, billowing synthetic vibe.


Calvin by Calvin Klein

This smells fairly typical of men's perfume in 1981, meaning it's good. A couple things crossing my mind are Davidoff and Quorum - this doesn't smell like those, quite, but there's something common among them, I think.

This is also reminding me of vintage Dior for women, almost like a version of Diorella for men.

Whereas Jacomo de Jacomo, another similar fragrance, goes a little too dark too early for me, Calvin slowly meanders in that direction after an initial blast of soap.

Santos. That's what this is reminding of the most after a few more days of sampling. This is like a stronger version of Santos with a slight twist. Calvin is what I would have liked Santos Concentree to smell like. As it was, I did not like Santos Concentree, so it's Calvin to the rescue as a longer-lasting Santos alternative.


Miss Dior Rose N'Roses by Christian Dior

I like this Rose n' Roses. I've seen mixed reviews for this line, but I have smelled this enough times now to confirm that my impression of liking it is reproducible. I smelled it blind this morning, and I thought it smelled like classic Dior.


Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior

I wore this yesterday for the first and most likely the last time. I live with someone who has worn it a few times, and she can pull it off ok, and likes it, but it was not good on me. I didn't like it. I wanted it to be gone. This morning when I woke up, it was almost entirely gone, and I felt relief.

Fake oud is a trip. Banana Republic has one they call 17 Oud Mosaic (as in 2017, as in that's the way perfume from 2017 supposedly smelled). I find it shocking and/or amusing, and most oud / fake oud fragrances strike me that way.

At times, I've felt like Oud Ispahan was the least bad of the genre, but after wearing it, it feels like a moot point - I don't think I like any of them.


Miss Dior Original Extrait de Parfum by Christian Dior

I have several bottles of vintage Miss Dior parfum, and they can vary more than I would have hoped. A good bottle that has held up well, such as the small, 7.5 ml bottles, can be great. Even in that size, I've had some variability, with only the oldest bottles hitting the highest heights.

With vintage Miss Dior edt, it seems easier to strike gold every time than it is with the parfum.


Hugo Dark Blue by Hugo Boss

I don't mind the sprayer that doesn't quite work right. It's funny to see it mentioned in the official site notes. I went for the oldest bottle I could find (with a short ingredients list), and the liquid dribbles out.

I thought it would be more like Hugo. It's a surprise that it's so different, but it is a nice creamy woods fragrance, with more of a feminine or unisex feel.


Hugo by Hugo Boss

I like this fragrance, Hugo. I like a few things from around this time, 1995, such as Platinum Egoiste (1993) and CK One (1994), and this reminds me of those. It has a hint of Nautica Voyage (2006), but that one gets cloying to me, and I think Hugo avoids that.

Another fragrance I acquired recently that is similar to Hugo is Dior Dune Pour Homme (1997) - I think I'm liking Hugo more than Dune Pour Homme. I'm actually fairly impressed with Hugo and surprised it doesn't get mentioned more. I got it as a gift.

Update: It's reminding me of Calvin Klein Euphoria Men.


Dune pour Homme by Christian Dior

I want to like this because I have acquired a nice-looking bottle of it, and I tend to like Dior fragrances, but Dune Pour Homme has just been ok, and cloying at times, especially early on. I don't quite like it. But I find it interesting, and I plan to keep it in deep storage for a few years to try it again later.

I get a vague association with / similar synthetic vibe from Rive Gauche Pour Homme.

I find Dune Pour Homme nicer after an hour of development, but the opening has been ruining the fun.


Rouge Trafalgar by Christian Dior

I just had a chance to experience Rouge Trafalgar, and I liked it, but I couldn't tell it was from the exclusive line because it smells so mass market. It smells like typical feminine Dior DNA, which I like, mixed with elements of Flowerbomb and maybe even some Polo Red.


Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's

This has lemon and lavender, and an old-school Eau de Cologne feel.


Gucci pour Homme (original) by Gucci

This is an easy thumbs up. I'm a huge fan.

I didn't try it until after I had stocked up on a bunch of masculine vintage oak moss fragrances, and used that as rationale not to get a bottle. When I tried it a couple years later, I felt like I needed a bottle and a backup.

The possible downside is that it's not always a strong projector. It can take deliberately placed overapplication to produce a euphoric scent cloud, for example to the front collar area of a cotton crew-neck t-shirt.


Un Homme by Charles Jourdan

I like this ok. Everyone on here seems to like it, and I've received a glowing compliment while wearing it today, but I'm not quite enthusiastic about it. I'm not a fan of Azzaro pour Homme, so this near-smell-alike didn't have the best prospect of becoming a personal favorite. It's fine, though.

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