Primrose

My Own Private Teahupo'o by A Lab on Fire

I was wanting a strong frangipani note and this filled the bill. A warm vanilla amber floral with lasting power. Not too big on the salty note, and this disappears in the first stage. I wish the name was shorter, but it garners compliments.
Aug 20, 2019


Natori by Josie Natori

An unexpected delight! Now available for pennies for 100 ml from discounters ($14.99) when once offered at department stores for $110,this eau de parfum is similar to Armani Prive Ambre Eccentrico with top notes of aldehydes. The scent is a floriental with a strong note of plum and other fruits, plus a warm amber undercurrent. The bottle is a love-it-or-hate-it shape. It is heavy. It's an abstract floral form with a matte black cap and a see-through key hole. This is so enjoyable that I bought a back up.
Sep 1, 2018


Une Ville, un Parfum : London by Guerlain

Why doesn't anyone note the leather here?

It's a jammy rose with rhubarb, but the leather is clear. It's even noted on the colorful map in the box.

Clearly a unisex. The bottle is a bit uninspired: a glass rectangle with a platinum image of Tower Bridge.

Good longevity and very unique. I don't understand the dislike of this. I bought a backup and, sure enough, it disappeared.
Dec 13, 2017


Lyric Woman by Amouage

I would not call Lyric Woman a gourmand but there is a light touch of sweetness through the rich florals.

This has both sillage and longevity, so be wary of hot weather and how you apply. It can become cloying.

Otherwise, this is a sheer pleasure to wear. It is not a common scent, or something easy to identify from the mass market. It is luxe and sumptious. Wear it whene you go out, or in private. Either way, you will enjoy it.

The incense, vanilla and tonka are not achingly sweet, but provide the oriental touch to the rose.
Sep 29, 2017


White Musk Smoky Rose by Body Shop

Not bad, not bad at all!

For a "bath and soap" company scent, Smoky Rose is an enjoyable cheap thrill. The best forms are the perfume oil and the eau de parfum

The scent is indeed a rose with the undercurrent of musk and possibly amber. It does not quite rise to the level of fine perfumery, but the longevity and sillage are quite good. The perfume oil clings to clothes for more than a day. I bought several bottles in the event the scent is discontinued!

The deep rose scent lasts. Stock up and enjoy.
Sep 29, 2017


Armani Privé Ambre Eccentrico by Giorgio Armani

I don't understand the negative remarks for Ambre Eccentrico, but it's all a matter of taste.

I think the rich oriental vibe is similar to Hermes Ambre Narguile and Marly Oajan.

Ambre Eccentrico is much more muted than the Narguile or the Oajan, yet the longevity is good to medium and the sillage is medium to strong.

The fruity prune is pronounced but does not overwhelm.

A nice addition to the Prive collection.
Sep 11, 2017


Sinner by Kat von D

This scent has been released in a new bottle (IMO, much better than the old "wash tap" bottle cap) in 2017, and it's by far my favourite of the Kat Von D scents. (The bottles are now covered in Goth-inspired filligree.) This is not haute parfumery, but a pleasant scent for everyday wear. The deep fruit/spice/wood scent is better than the sister scent, Sinner. Longevity and sillage are average. Don't waste money buying the high-priced bottles on eBay. Instead, enjoy a new bottle of this scent.
Jun 28, 2017


Bottega Veneta pour Homme Parfum by Bottega Profumiera

This is called a "parfum" but it's and eau de parfum. Better than the EDT, it's spicy leather scent. The leather/tonka is the best part of this scent. It wears well and long, but it's not a sillage monster. I also like the women's version with its plum/violet with leather.

Not a good blind buy as it's a hit-or-miss scent.

Trying this is a must.
May 20, 2017


Les Exceptions : Cuir Impertinent by Thierry Mugler

Cuir Impertinent belongs in the collection of any diehard fragrance collector, but with a caveat. The presentation (black box and silvertoned bottle) are luxe and a joy to behold. Some vendors even offered engraving.

The scent, sadly, is not what one would assume from the makers of Angel as an exclusive offering.

I have several bottle of the Angel Cuir (I love it!) and it was only offered in the 30 ml bottle to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Angel, so I stocked up when it was released to discounters.

Cuir Impertinent is a warm, spiced leather with amber and tobacco. On me, it does not have the sillage or longevity of the Angel Cuir, so sampling is a must as mileage may vary.
Nov 28, 2015


Kuhuyan by Parfums de Marly

I happen to like Kuhuyan for the reasons that some don't like it. It is a smoky leather floral that reminds me of Cuir de Lancôme. Instead of jasmine, as with the Lancôme, Marly uses violet. This scent had longevity and sillage, and is enjoyable to wear. It is a unisex and not bound to be worn by everyone.
Nov 22, 2015


CH Men Privé by Carolina Herrera

I will not be as harsh as drseid, but this scent is average. Just that: average. I read these notes and thought that this is a must-try. Leather? Benzoin? Whiskey? I was excited. In the end, it dried down to a generic masculine scent. Wearable? Yes. The cap of this whiskey flask bottle is hard to manage, and one can scratch the shoulder of the bottle. Nice looking bottle, though. I would recommend the earlier CH in the leather-embossed bottle as it is much more pleasant to wear.
Nov 13, 2015


Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is a nice scent in many ways being a complex oriental with a light gourmand touch. Its shortcoming is the lack of longevity. I expect more from ELDO, and this was not the quality I have come to expect. I have other scents from the line that are much better than this.
Mar 18, 2015


La Religieuse by Serge Lutens

When I first tried La Religieuse, my first thought was, "Ceci n'est pas un Serge Lutens!" Truly! With all the advertising copy on nuns and black and white habits, I thought of a heavy dark incense and a strong white floral. This did not happen for me.

Instead, La Religieuse is a pleasant jasmine floral with touches of incense and civet. It wears close to the skin with average longevity. I love SL scents like Chergui, Cuir Mauresque and Sa Majeste La Rose, which are strong in character.

I will wear La Religiuese in the warmer months when lighter scents are called for. This scent is like the quiet of nuns in contemplation, and not like the loud and joyful choir.
Mar 11, 2015


Eau de Gaga by Lady Gaga

This scent was not heavily marketed in the United States at the launch.

Oddly, the contents in the bottle do not match the bottle. With the angular all-black bottle looks very By Killian or Chanel Coco Noir, so one expects a deep, dark scent loaded with incense, labdanum or patchouli.

Not so. This is a fresh citrus (lime) with a light undercoat of leather. After all, the "name" says it's an "eau." That said, the bottle should have been more indicative of a light, watery scent. Even the notes state a "sparkling water accord."

So much for the presentation and its disconnect.

The scent itself is pleasant. Light and inoffensive. Safe for work or any occasion. Not ground-breaking but worth a bottle if you enjoy the scent.
Feb 22, 2015


Lady Gaga Fame by Lady Gaga

Fame is not as ground-breaking as I had hoped with its black colour and unique bottle. In the end, it's just a middle-of-the road gourmand scent that had now trickled its way down from Nordstrom to Walmart. The 50 ml bottle can now be bought on eBay for $8.00.

It's not a bad scent, but it's not anything that jumps out and demands a second wearing.

Lady Gaga's second endeavour with Eau de Gaga in 2014 was a much better fragrance.

Buy Fame it for the bottle.
Feb 22, 2015


Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Musc Ravageur is a hate-it-or-love-it scent. For me, it's a love-it.

Skanky is very much a personal opinion.

The opening of lavender with cinnamon is wonderful and it heads towards its musky, vanilla/amber drydown. It shares kinship with Le Labo Labdanum 18 and also L de Lolita Lempicka (also created by Maurice Roucel) with its prominent use of cinnamon, musk, amber and vanilla.

The eau de parfum of MR is very strong, and there is also the body butter.

Get past the musky, dirty opening and enjoy the drydown.

Feb 21, 2015


Sous Le Vent by Guerlain

I tried the most recent version. I understand the vintage is the one worth having. Yes, it IS wonderful. It's like a sister to Guerlain's Derby.

I retried this, and found it was too fleeting to buy a bottle prior to its being discontinued. For that money, I'd rather have a bottle of Vol de Nuit, Shalimar or Jicky parfum.

My Derby will have a place in my collection.
Jun 13, 2014


Bullion by Byredo

This is a wonderfully blended leather and the leather stands out.

For the price, however, I would compare with PG Cuir d'Iris, which smells similar to my nose.
Apr 19, 2014


Fleurs d'Ombre Violette-Menthe by Jean-Charles Brosseau

Wonderful and fresh scent for a spring day! Spirit-lifting and cool, the mint and the violets, not too powdery, Violette-Mente an understated scent. Not a heavy scent, which is what you sometimes need.
Mar 14, 2014


Vol de Nuit Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

This is one of my go-to scents, and it sits out in the open with my regular rotation of scents. This is not a novelty for me. When I cannot decide on what I "feel" like wearing, I dab on some of this perfume. (I don't use the EDT.) It's green and fresh with the galbanum but warm with the vanilla notes in the drydown. There are also hints of something leathery. Very much a classic Guerlain, so if you prefer citruses and fruity florals, this may not be for you. This is truly a unisex, and it is warm and elegant.
Dec 1, 2013


3 Cuir Ambre by Prada

Wonderful scent but not unique

Prada's No. 3 Cuir Ambre is a fantastic scent. Don't get me wrong.



But at one sniff, I had smelled this before. Serge Lutens' Cuir Mauresque. Cuir Ambre is far too similar to Cuir Mauresque. And Cuir Mauresque is much cheaper and also good with projection and longevity.



Try both and decide which one you like better. The Lutens are eau de parfums, and are sold in 50 ml and the bell bottle, while the Cuir Ambre is a parfum and is sold in 30 ml.

Pros: Longevity
Cons: Too much like another scent
Oct 10, 2013


L'Ambre des Merveilles by Hermès

Too little sillage and longevity A wonderful flanker to Eau des Merveilles, a light amber mix, slightly gourmand, but far too fleeting and with poor sillage. I expected more in an EDP. If you enjoy it, go for it, but testing first is a must; do not buy on first sniff. In a side-by-side comparison with Hermes Ambre Narguile, an EDT, did much better. Almost the same scent as L'Ambre des Merveilles, but with a little more spice and much better longevity and sillage. Four hours later into the comparison, the L'Ambre is hardly there while the Ambre Narguile is very much present and enjoyable. My personal recommendation is to spend the extra money and buy a bottle of Ambre Narguile. It's worth the extra money.Pros: Wonderful scentCons: Too light and fleeting
Jun 11, 2013


Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent by Estée Lauder

A fresh citrus/coconut/amber scent that screams, "Suntan oil." Great scent to enjoy and not "haute parfumerie," but just for fun. Merits a full bottle as this is a light eau de toilette. Try using the skin oil and layer to make it last longer. Longevity of this eau fraiche is not a plus.

This is a fresh addition to any collection. Truly a "beach in a bottle." It makes a good unisex for men who like a gourmand summer scent.

EDIT: Starting in 2014, this comes in a body cream. This has the most longevity out of all of the ancillary products.
Apr 14, 2013


Orangers en Fleurs by Houbigant

This is indeed a cousin of Serge Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger without the strong cumin. It is a lovely orange blossom with florals and greens. Nutmeg provides the subtle spice.

If you love orange blossom, this is a must-try.

Not as powerful in longevity and sillage as the SL, this is a bit more than moderate.

Hopefully this means that Houbigant, a company with REAL historical roots dating back to the 18th century, will be coming back into the fragrance market with interesting scents.

At $180 for 100ml, this is a luxury item. The bottle is made to look like antique crystal, yet sadly the cap over the spray nozzle is made of plastic. Not impressed. I would have thought it should be glass at this price. The foil label on the bottle makes references to the bottles from the 1920s and 1930s, and had hoped Houbigant would have at least a glass cap to take the luxe reference even further.

Even the mainstream Chanels (in the iconic square bottles) have glass caps; the No. 19 Eau Poudree has a cap of frosted glass.

All in all, the scent is elegant and even unisex for those who enjoy orange blossom.

Mar 13, 2013

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