Philosykos Eau de Toilette by Diptyque

Diptyque - Philosykos
This smells like the whole fruit of the fig in its start- it smells just like when you're eating one. That delicate, pastry-sweet honeyness and the crush of its seeds. Very lush and mellow with a fruity and sticky feel to it. Then a moist nectarine-like note joints, taking over the freshness and natural vibration of the fig. After this sweet, round fruity part, for me it begins to smell like ecoline, a color-ink, that we used for making paintings when I was in junior-school. A quite addictive scent that's very recognizable with its sweet, oily-like, terpenic-inky smell. Next to this, i get a medicinal-note of crushed chalk and fresh bandages, a sort of musty old paper and a fresh chlorine-note in one, and an iron-like dried blood-note on top of the smell of cold turkey- a cold dried, fleshy animalic-note- dressed up with a soapy, very clean vetiver-earthy base. This may sound and smell pretty horrible, but somehow it all comes together in a real soft and comfortable sweetspot- it projects a balanced and well built structure.
In the end, while rejecting it and embracing it at the same time, I suddenly realized that this perfume isn't just all about having the experience of eating a fig. Its also about the fig that's not being eaten, that falls on the ground and resolves into the earth, while being dried in the hot sun. It gives this perfume its slightly oxidated/rotten, fleshy, green-vegetable, clear glance. From this prospective I was able to understand Philosykos alot better- its an original perfume which also has a mainstream, easy-to-wear quality to it. Great name for a perfume too...

Armani Privé Bois d'Encens by Giorgio Armani

Armani Prive - Bois d'Encens
This a special gem in the Armani Prive-line up. Such a simple perfume but yet incredible rich, thick, layered and also airy smelling. This is superb blending, especially for the all-natural ingredients: hot black pepper, cool yet spicy, salty vetiver and hissy-peppery resinous frankincense. These aromatics were chosen with much care and attention. I guess there were a lot trials made before the exact right combination of oils gave the right effect- but what a marvelous accord this is.
This smells far away from the most masculine's- this one focuses more on what's happening inside its form than on the form itself. It moves from light to dark, from soft to raw-edgy, and back and forth. It plays a game with light and dark, casting shadows her and there, giving it a very dynamic interplay. It projects airy-green and dark-earthy notes at the same time. The fresh black pepper harmonizes with the peppery topnote of the frankincense that has the most complete scent-profile of top, mid and base. The vetiver is all the way green: fresh greenish on top, more of a solid rooty-dark green in its dryout. The frankincense acts more as an introvert while the vetiver is more extravert, it radiates more lightness and freshness and becoming more stronger and dominant in its dry-out. Then, Bois d'Encens gets a darker tone, almost of sweaty animalic wet fur, a sort of musk-tone. I guess the salty rooty-earthiness of the vetiver and the sticky stony-resinous from the frankincense are responsible for that.
Its nice to smell a frankincense-based perfume that stays away from the smoky-dusty inside of a church-perfumes. Bois smells more of the outside- like a mixed forest of pine- and broadleaf-trees after a long night of raining that's being warmed up by a very hot sun, early in the morning, during springtime. Damp, fresh-green, wet, humid and at the same time hot, dry and sweet, sticky-resinous. Definitely a perfume with a heart that beats with an analogue pulsation, not with the digital precision of an alarm clock. A masterpiece. Get it while stock lasts cause this one is gonna hit the perfume-Hall Of Fame...

Notre Flore Cèdre / Cedar by L'Occitane

Cedre - L'Occitane
The best thing about this one is its first 10 seconds which displays a very nice fresh grapefruit-note. After that a very dominant synthetic grapefruit-note takes over and doesn't go away till deep in its dry-out. I guess its the same stuff that's being used in Terre d'Hermes, that very amnesia giving, penetrating scent-molecule. Some lavender joints together with some herbs, rosemary/thyme, and a watery melon-note. This part shows great resemblance with Aqua di Gio, that hot herbals dipped in watery-melon, salty-seabreeze. Beside that, for me its smells like a new sneaker-shoebox stuffed with lemon peels. But the thing that Cedre reminds me the most of is Silvio's silver-polish, a bitter-sour, waxy smell with a plastic-rubbery side to it. The cederwood is more of a dressed up slight soapy, white wood with raw-greenish vetiver on top, which smells very nice. If only that persistent, it just goes on-and-on grapefruit-note, had left the scene, this could have made my very happy. Instead, it spoils this Mediterranean party, leaving my nose with a hangover...

Tam Dao Eau de Toilette by Diptyque

Diptyque - Tam Dao
This smells like when you are at a petrol-station on the highway, filling off your car with gasoline. That terpenic, sweet smell that makes you a bit high while you are leaning against your car, thinking of nothing… Tam Dao captures that same meditative feeling when you spray it. I don't know if this is due to the cedarwood alone, cause that must be one hell of a cederwood!- its very spiced and raw-edged. As the counteract, and central theme, Tam Dao is all about sandelwood(oil) which it contains for about 17%- which is a real heavy dose. On my skin it is gone after ca. 1,5 hours which is much too short, also because I like this perfume. I guess this no sandelwood from Mysore but more one of Australia or Haiti, which are lighter and have less tenacity. But its a very nice, attractive sandelwood that isn't too dominant. I think this functions better as a perfume to scent the blankets of my bedroom. On the fabric, the tone it sings last longer so it lingers through the room more, which is nice. Its a very natural smelling perfume with a high content of non-synthetic ingredients. In my bottle the cedar- and sandelwood pushes itself up and creeps out of the bottle from underneath the spray cap, making the top of the bottle all sticky- which is a natural behavior of essential oils. This is why I like Tam Dao even more, it really walks a walk of its own. Very nice- thumbs up.

Kenzo pour Homme by Kenzo

Kenzo - Kenzo pour Homme
A modern fougere-styled scent for people in the urban city. I recall it as very greenish with raw edges to it. It smells how fern feels like when you pick it from a tree and rub it between your fingers. It has a spiced-oily touch to it which I like very much. Here it smells quite natural but the rest is a sort of kakafonie of sharp synthetic notes. The start is basically the best thing about it, the rest is hollow and a bit dull, it walks a familiar path. Spicy-green like cederwood with a whiff of gasoline, plus lavender, vetiver and oakmoss in a cloud of salty, airy and slightly soapy seabreeze-ness. I also get a thin bubblegum/hairspray-note that gives it a sticky feel. Kenzo is easygoing, solid and sits quietly on the skin. A very 'ok'-like scent.
It is a green breeze that chameleons itself to a city full of concrete, metal and glass. I imagine if everyone was wearing this in New York-city, it would give the suggestion that it was full of trees instead of skyscrapers. Very mild thumbs up.

Bandit by Robert Piguet

Robert Piquet - Bandit
The recent Bandit is a brushed off, cleaner and too much weight-loosed version of the original. It pretty much has the same contours, curves and forms but lacks heavily in its inner-content and weight that its carrying. Less rich and abundant, less natural flow of the ingredients. The original version walked the thinnest scent-line possible between its raw, vulgar and dirty leathery-animalic sexappeal, pure lust, almost scary, and its poetic lovelettery, shy-romantic elegance. Bandit is two perfumes in one, both with very different personalities, character and appearance. The way that Germaine Cellier managed to blend these polar scents-profiles seamlessly, without any bumps or hick-ups, perfectly smooth, is one the biggest triumphs in modern perfumery, to my taste. It smells so very 'simple' and light and fresh, greeny in its opening, so dark, sultry and deep-voiced from its real musk-base. So tasteful and easy likable that you want to drink it- its sure has a gourmand-factor- in the sense that it smells to be drunk. Like the bouquet's invitation of a very exquisite wine. Although the notes really can get along with each other, at the same time you can feel a tension, like there is a very fragile bound that beholds the peace. It projects a disturbance, and at the same time a sense of true love and tenderness. It communicates, it breathes, it lives. One of the best perfumes ever created, in its old formula in parfum-strength that is...A timeless masterpiece.

Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens

Serge Lutens - Santal Majuscule
The first sniff is rose-petals with some cool spicy cardamom and coriander, the orangey of orangeblossom and some peach-plum note that makes it moist. After 10 min, for me this smells like Allure pour Homme after an hour. This first part got a blurry and misty feel to it, it feels like it was made with too much haste. There is a strange note that smells like cutting cold cucumber with a hot knife. The rose-note grows stronger and gets more shinny due to the fruity-floral aldehydes and it also gets a slight peppery, oily quality too it- and somehow I get a wood glue-note. When the sandelwood kicks in and meets the rose it creates the illusion of chocolate, a gourmand-touch, together with a juicy note of an almost empty glass of wine, smelled the day after. Also just before the sandelwood dominates there is a soft banana-note that fades quickly. After this a highly fruity and floral aldehydal-mix starts to take effect which spoils the rose-sandelwood balance. Before this the oiliness of both the rose and the sandelwood fitted each other and made it harmonic.
Somehow the sandelwood never gets a chance to step out of this cloud of synthetics and breathes on its own. A missed chance cause I heard they used 3 different kind of sandelwoods in its base.
I get an annoyed nose from this perfume, it really irritates it to the extend that Santal becomes repulsive. I think its a really unworthy perfume in the SL-line and one that easily can be forgotten. Its gives the impression that it was made with too little time, attention and a weak, unoriginal vision. It just relies too much on the safeness of the Sheldrake-Lutens scent-signature. My thumb points just too much downwards...

Dia Man by Amouage

Amouage - Dia Man
A very good perfume. I have wore this for a few years as my signature-scent. This is big frankincense, but not of the smoky kind. It focuses more on the sweet-like resin and stony side of it, and its hot peppery top-note. A very ethereal and meditative perfume, very focused and sure of what it is, confident and calm. On me it has the same effect, this sooths me and gives me a feeling of strength and belonging. Like Steven Segal teaching aikido in his own dojo. I like its hot-stony aspect, the feeling of walking barefoot on hot sand. Good raw materials, aside for the labdanum which smells thin and lacks stickiness. Slightly floral from the cassie/ylang and very light sweaty-leathery-smoky undertones in the base. All in all it manages to radiate a constant focus on a dry and hot warmth from beginning till the end. Quite unique, very well balanced and crafted with distinctive precision, this is a very nice one from Amouage. Hard to compare it with something of the same kind. Both thumbs up!

A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

Thierry Mugler - A-men
If you like a scent that hits your nose with a chemical warfare-attack of polished rusty metal, wet plasters, butterscotch-chocolate pudding, red pepper/paprika and hot metal-shavings with slightly melted plastic edges, finished with a sweet scent of glue, and the sour medicinal-note of rabbit-food and yeast-pills, then this will make you a man... Amen.

Allure Homme by Chanel


This used to be a perfume i really liked when it first came out. Good memories: the south of france, sunshine, beach... Is it my imagination or did this undergo a reformulation? Its stuck in my head because of its explosion of fresh and zesty sweet-orange fruit, really juicy with a great natural flow to it. A perfume that didnt took itself too seriously and was enjoying itself. A simple linear, exploding blast of the celebration of summertime- like that moment you realize its summer because the sun touches your soul en melts the last cold in your body, that shiver down your spine that hits you...

Where did that go? I tried it yesterday with a tester i got from my local perfumery, pretty sure this is not a 10 years old version. So, this sure didnt had that blast of crispy, zesty, ripe orangey fruit, instead it smelled like a pale, synthetic, brushed, plastic-like fruitcocktail with little real freshness, backed up by the smell of a sweet-like glue-note. After an hour or so a manifest of creamy honey-like chamomile-calendula kicked in with an apricot-note. And a polite, clean musk-note that was struggling to find its way in the light amber-vanille accord. Marine-notes all over the place in between all this to, but without the fresh, big-juicy and zesty topnotes that it used to have, radiating its joyfullness inside the heart of it, this structure fails to let its flesh live up, getting warm and being comfortable with itself. The magic has turn cold...

Originally i think it never got the credit that it deserved to get... Maybe because it appears to be too simple, (linear) and too friendly for a Chanel-perfume. But if you are able to just flow with this one, letting go of a critical nose and preferences, just empty your head and have fun, this perfume made/makes the perfect partner for a memorable, sunny summerday thats impossible to forget. Well, at least thats what happened to me...

(i still like this better than Terre d'Hermes btw)

Cool Water by Davidoff

Its clearly that Cool Water has suffered from the latest ban on oakmoss. Why Turin still gives it 5 stars is a mystery to me. This scent smells too harsh now, not only in its top, where thats not a big problem, but also in its mid and base now. Gone is the sparkle of the radiating thick softness of oakmoss that was needed to put the overdosis of dihydromyrcenol into balance. The bone-structure is still there, but it lacks the beautifull soft fabric of a perfect fitted dress that covered up the raw edges of the body. Gone is the shine of elegance, the beauty. I guess this shows how important the raw aromatics of natural origin still are in the modern formula's of perfumes. I cant give it thumbs down because the original Cool Water was so freaking (refreshing) original. Some memories are hard to ban...(yes, im from the 80's area..!)

Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

This is a great exercise in how to make a very good warm and dry-smoky scent that manages to stay away from the frankincense church-category. A very dry, warm and multi-facet smoke-scent with a strange barbecue roasted chicken-note, the tarry chimney of a fireplace, that dry spicy-inky of fresh morningpaper, the hot, dry steamy-smokiness of a sauna-scent together with a nice round and smoky patchouli that reminds of a cigarette in a ashtray made of marble, all there...and the dusty, musty smell of old books. Bold and at the same time subtle. The oilyness and warmth in this scent somehow seems to mimic the human skin itself and thats the greatest thing about it. Its smells in a animalic way but doesnt really show does notes. The warmth that this scent radiates till deep in its dry-out is extraordinary, it really seems to heat itself up...
I cannot really call this a perfume and wouldnt wear this myself but its very original stuff- i think this will go down in history as a classic (scent). Annick Menardo truly is the most original and gifted perfumer of our time.

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka

If people dont reckon this to be a the top rank of modern perfumery, at least they should tribute it with endless respect...

Where to begin?

Its like a fluffy cloud of cotton-candy which imbodies all the smells of an old candystore. Its flooding in this fresh air, having fun drifting on the wind. Its salty-anisic opening thats the main theme, remains presents till the end of the dry-out, passing, meeting and melting with a lot of different tones of scent, that behave in a shrizofrenic kind of way. Is it winegum or banana-sweets? Bitter almond or sweet marzepein? Salty vetiver or salty patchouli? Crumbled chocolate or grinded coffee? Is it elmo's glue or petrolic cedarwood? Cool metal or unripe rose? I even smell that sticky caramelic mouthfeel while eating a cotton-candy, its a very physical smell...or it could be the undertone of a lavender-oil...

This mysterious way of behaving gives it great charme and humor. Different than Angel, that mainly focused on the chocolate and edible kind of a brushed clean sweety patchouli, Menardo takes the brilliant angle of the contra-junction and integration of the salty anisic-note against the chocolate-praline-gourmand accord. This way the perfume stays fresh and breezy, almost like there is hedione and calone in its innerwork. It surely has a really light and airy feel to it.

All this makes this perfume unquestionably relevant and unique. In my humble opinion the most original perfume of the last 20 years. Maybe overshadowed and inspired by Angel but definitely in a league of its own. Time after time, its always a surprise to smell this one and it always manages to put a smile on my face.

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

In its form its not a bad fragrance, the idea is great.

Like peeling an grapefruit at the beach after a swim on a hot day while a fresh breeze gently dries your towel on the hot sand and your wet t-shirt thats sweating on one of those big, really hot rocks...

If only Ellena had put in more time and natural stuff to really give this scent a living vibe, this would have been great.

Instead, for me, that synthetic grapefruit-note is too bold and crude and goes on and on, and cant seem to settle down with the dry notes, cederwood, in this perfume. A typical overdosed iso e super perfume that so many of us are addicted to nowadays, so its no wonder it sells good.

This interacts better with the fabric of a cotton t-shirt than on (my) human skin.

Poison by Christian Dior

Poison. For sure the most potent perfume of the 80's. Big, bold, syrupy sweet with a amazing blue- and redberry-on-winemost accord thats has been drenched in a honeysweet rose-bath. Its acts like a cougar ready to take the jump to catch its prey. Its a perfume that merely says this one thing: im coming for you and dont dare come to me...cause you've already lost. Confident, undeniable, present, its defends its territory with a self-confident pride. Seduction in optima forma. Far away from the Roudnitscka-area where subtleness was the main theme- this is more like a microphone stuck inside an opera-voice rather then listening to a close harmony-choir from a distance, carried on a freshly green breeze at the beginning of springtime. But what a clear tone it sings and holds untill the end..loud, but insanely beautifull. This is a monumental, somewhat underrated, piece of perfume-making.

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