Reviews by 2nosedtwin
Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
Frederic Malle - Noir Espices
This is a perfume that clearly suffers from an overdose of geranium, making it smell cheap, like mosquito-spray and/or citronella, which to my nose is one the most 'avoid if possible'-notes in perfumery. It gives Noir Espices a top-heavy top while its base is rather lightweight, giving it a very strange dynamic feel. Good materials, but it gives me the impression that it was made in a hurry because overall there is little refinement to detect - it smells sharp, crude and sharp-edged most of the time. Its nice when the basenotes get more apparent and the rest gets toned down, finding a more airy-feel giving it a more balanced character; still, it only gets a soft elegance and juicy flow till late in its dry-out making me wonder what was all the noise about... Overall, this perfume suffers from a lack of identity - a clear balanced form in which it can find a language of its own. Its dryout is the most expressive part - mixing up creamy-woody and spicy-woody notes with a brushed off mentholic-patchouli note that gives it an airy lift. To me it smells like trying to enjoy eating a lemon-curd in a very hot and cramped traditional Indian kitchen, where they are preparing marinades from crushed and baked spices in large foodpans. But then, without the spirit of human warmth...
This is a perfume that clearly suffers from an overdose of geranium, making it smell cheap, like mosquito-spray and/or citronella, which to my nose is one the most 'avoid if possible'-notes in perfumery. It gives Noir Espices a top-heavy top while its base is rather lightweight, giving it a very strange dynamic feel. Good materials, but it gives me the impression that it was made in a hurry because overall there is little refinement to detect - it smells sharp, crude and sharp-edged most of the time. Its nice when the basenotes get more apparent and the rest gets toned down, finding a more airy-feel giving it a more balanced character; still, it only gets a soft elegance and juicy flow till late in its dry-out making me wonder what was all the noise about... Overall, this perfume suffers from a lack of identity - a clear balanced form in which it can find a language of its own. Its dryout is the most expressive part - mixing up creamy-woody and spicy-woody notes with a brushed off mentholic-patchouli note that gives it an airy lift. To me it smells like trying to enjoy eating a lemon-curd in a very hot and cramped traditional Indian kitchen, where they are preparing marinades from crushed and baked spices in large foodpans. But then, without the spirit of human warmth...
Aqua Amara by Bulgari
Bvlgari - AQVA amara
Hilariously bad fragrance from Bvlgari that is named after a planet out of a book from Jack Vance, and smells so indeterminated and alienated that I got the feeling it was designed for another lifeform from outerspace. Its boneless, hollow, suffers from weightlessness and smells like an empty plastic container that has been used to store very cheap jasmine-scented tea. Or like an empty aquarium that needs cleaning. I cant decide.
Hilariously bad fragrance from Bvlgari that is named after a planet out of a book from Jack Vance, and smells so indeterminated and alienated that I got the feeling it was designed for another lifeform from outerspace. Its boneless, hollow, suffers from weightlessness and smells like an empty plastic container that has been used to store very cheap jasmine-scented tea. Or like an empty aquarium that needs cleaning. I cant decide.
Manifesto by Yves Saint Laurent
YSL - Manifesto
A proper and clean perfume which seems to behave like a toned-down LL with a salty-licorice and banana-note with the stickiness of black-currant confiture, before reaching a honey-sweet jasmine note and settles down in a gingerbread-like vanilla/sandalwood custardness and a bitter almond cloudyness. Its nice to smell but behaves too much on the save side and is moderate refined and focused - a pretty little thing that's equally hard to like and/or dislike; meaning that it has a certain quality but surely it isn't memorable. Its a good perfume to carry with you as spare one - good to save a situation when a woman needs a 'quick' scent to accentuate her feminity...
A proper and clean perfume which seems to behave like a toned-down LL with a salty-licorice and banana-note with the stickiness of black-currant confiture, before reaching a honey-sweet jasmine note and settles down in a gingerbread-like vanilla/sandalwood custardness and a bitter almond cloudyness. Its nice to smell but behaves too much on the save side and is moderate refined and focused - a pretty little thing that's equally hard to like and/or dislike; meaning that it has a certain quality but surely it isn't memorable. Its a good perfume to carry with you as spare one - good to save a situation when a woman needs a 'quick' scent to accentuate her feminity...
La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum by Guerlain
Guerlain - La Petite Robe Noire
An embarrassing, far below average perfume from Guerlain of which I'm not sure of for whom it was made in mind - or why in the first place. I just cannot picture this being worn by a human being - more like a flavoring dress-up for tea or candies... Its a too crude, harsh, loud, overdone and overly too sweet perfume that smells awfully much like all the candies in the world stuffed in a very warm candy-store, creamy sugar-coated bitter almonds in liquid form, overripe black-cherries and/or like getting woke up early in the morning with a cotton-candy pushed into your face. It tries to imitate LL and Angel at the same time and fails by doing so; it tries to be trendy and hip, but in the end screams like a spoiled little kid that wants more candy but doesn't get anymore. How can this wear the Guerlain-label?
An embarrassing, far below average perfume from Guerlain of which I'm not sure of for whom it was made in mind - or why in the first place. I just cannot picture this being worn by a human being - more like a flavoring dress-up for tea or candies... Its a too crude, harsh, loud, overdone and overly too sweet perfume that smells awfully much like all the candies in the world stuffed in a very warm candy-store, creamy sugar-coated bitter almonds in liquid form, overripe black-cherries and/or like getting woke up early in the morning with a cotton-candy pushed into your face. It tries to imitate LL and Angel at the same time and fails by doing so; it tries to be trendy and hip, but in the end screams like a spoiled little kid that wants more candy but doesn't get anymore. How can this wear the Guerlain-label?
Aromatics Elixir by Clinique
Clinique - Aromatics Elixer
This is more like an anti-Elixer that tries to diminish the human vitality, and smells as dry and musty as half-hardened cement out of a cement-mixer, or an old gravel-road on a very hot day with no whiff of wind. This perfume misses refinement, juice and good quality natural materials. It smells strangely old and 'swollen' - like it has been cut open, striped from its vital organs and stuffed full with wadding before being sutured; there is no airiness, and nothing that makes it a bit cheerful. Good stuff to accentuate a bad day at the office or to wear on a funeral - it acts dull, with no living movement in sight. This perfume 'tastes' like a Californian pinot noir-wine instead of one out of Bourgogne - with its unrivaled velvety finesse and roundeur. Let Aromatics Elixer stay where it belongs...
This is more like an anti-Elixer that tries to diminish the human vitality, and smells as dry and musty as half-hardened cement out of a cement-mixer, or an old gravel-road on a very hot day with no whiff of wind. This perfume misses refinement, juice and good quality natural materials. It smells strangely old and 'swollen' - like it has been cut open, striped from its vital organs and stuffed full with wadding before being sutured; there is no airiness, and nothing that makes it a bit cheerful. Good stuff to accentuate a bad day at the office or to wear on a funeral - it acts dull, with no living movement in sight. This perfume 'tastes' like a Californian pinot noir-wine instead of one out of Bourgogne - with its unrivaled velvety finesse and roundeur. Let Aromatics Elixer stay where it belongs...
Fahrenheit by Christian Dior
Christian Dior - Fahrenheit
If this one can make the temperature of your blood rise more than 1 fahrenheit, than your probably a very ice-cold person who needs all the little bit of warmth you can get; or dead... A weak sharp-peppery opening with a smudged greenness that smells musty and like overcooked vegetables with an anisic touch, grows into a bitter lavender note, and a weak sweet fruity note that reminds of water-ice where the flavor almost totally has been sucked out of. Then, like a big surprise, it grows into a rubber-leathery note with a clean transparent cedarwood/palo santo note with a Cool Water-like airiness; unpleasantly musty bitter-sour smelling, finished off with a big splash of iso e super. A big disappointment in terms off quality and originality with a detached and boring character. Yuk.
If this one can make the temperature of your blood rise more than 1 fahrenheit, than your probably a very ice-cold person who needs all the little bit of warmth you can get; or dead... A weak sharp-peppery opening with a smudged greenness that smells musty and like overcooked vegetables with an anisic touch, grows into a bitter lavender note, and a weak sweet fruity note that reminds of water-ice where the flavor almost totally has been sucked out of. Then, like a big surprise, it grows into a rubber-leathery note with a clean transparent cedarwood/palo santo note with a Cool Water-like airiness; unpleasantly musty bitter-sour smelling, finished off with a big splash of iso e super. A big disappointment in terms off quality and originality with a detached and boring character. Yuk.
Arpège by Lanvin
Lanvin Arpege(pre-formulation)
A clean and tight perfume with a 'classic' structure that's floating by like the Titanic on open sea - majestic and gracious. It got a compressed and concentrated feel about its aromatics with a great balance between flavour-efficiency and airy-expression; accelerating slowly with a smooth, trapless transmission from top, to mid and base. Very fresh and full flowery-flavored with the main-stage being taken by tuberose, beautifully accompanied by an orchestra of the other flowers, glowing and pulsating their flowery notes, dressing up the tuberose. It floats on a resinous-creamy sandalwood/patchouli/vanilla-base with powdery-iris and greeny notes: which already projects its light and warmth in this perfumes' early start. Arpege is an incredible harmonious and very smooth blended perfume with a powerful, yet very elegant flow to it - never hurried, always in a constant pace that shows grace and dignity, wrapped in a mystical mist of knowing where its heading. A poetic masterpiece with no weak points and due to exquisite blending far more easy' smelling than how complex Arpege in reality is.
A clean and tight perfume with a 'classic' structure that's floating by like the Titanic on open sea - majestic and gracious. It got a compressed and concentrated feel about its aromatics with a great balance between flavour-efficiency and airy-expression; accelerating slowly with a smooth, trapless transmission from top, to mid and base. Very fresh and full flowery-flavored with the main-stage being taken by tuberose, beautifully accompanied by an orchestra of the other flowers, glowing and pulsating their flowery notes, dressing up the tuberose. It floats on a resinous-creamy sandalwood/patchouli/vanilla-base with powdery-iris and greeny notes: which already projects its light and warmth in this perfumes' early start. Arpege is an incredible harmonious and very smooth blended perfume with a powerful, yet very elegant flow to it - never hurried, always in a constant pace that shows grace and dignity, wrapped in a mystical mist of knowing where its heading. A poetic masterpiece with no weak points and due to exquisite blending far more easy' smelling than how complex Arpege in reality is.
Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche
Guy Laroche - Drakkar Noir
This perfume, together with Caractere, got me started being excited about perfumery - this was the stuff my brothers wore when I was young. Smelling this after 20 years brings back a lot memories and makes me realize how good this perfume still is and was. Drakkar Noir made me recognize the smell of freshly crushed coniferous-leaves in it - which was a marvelous connection because I love that smell; we had them standing in our backyard. It was actually the first 'exotic' note that I could identify, other than rose- and citrus-notes. Drakkar noir always moves with a greenish flow, but always of the dirty-kind: slightly oily with a raw, gritty edge to it, and with smooth leather and tobacco 'of the spicy kind' to back it up, carried by a soft mossy cloud of oakmoss with a cederwoody-touch. Drakar Noir is an intense, focused and hot-tempered perfume with as much grip as smoothness; where lavender connects the bright and fresh peppery-citrus topnotes with the more 'weighted' base which also displays ozonic, metallic and mentholic notes. Drakkar Noir acts as a bodyguard in a tight, flashy suit - acting self-assured, cool and collected, but with a hidden alertness; ready to flex some muscles and kick some action when the moment calls for it. A masculine Masterpiece.
This perfume, together with Caractere, got me started being excited about perfumery - this was the stuff my brothers wore when I was young. Smelling this after 20 years brings back a lot memories and makes me realize how good this perfume still is and was. Drakkar Noir made me recognize the smell of freshly crushed coniferous-leaves in it - which was a marvelous connection because I love that smell; we had them standing in our backyard. It was actually the first 'exotic' note that I could identify, other than rose- and citrus-notes. Drakkar noir always moves with a greenish flow, but always of the dirty-kind: slightly oily with a raw, gritty edge to it, and with smooth leather and tobacco 'of the spicy kind' to back it up, carried by a soft mossy cloud of oakmoss with a cederwoody-touch. Drakar Noir is an intense, focused and hot-tempered perfume with as much grip as smoothness; where lavender connects the bright and fresh peppery-citrus topnotes with the more 'weighted' base which also displays ozonic, metallic and mentholic notes. Drakkar Noir acts as a bodyguard in a tight, flashy suit - acting self-assured, cool and collected, but with a hidden alertness; ready to flex some muscles and kick some action when the moment calls for it. A masculine Masterpiece.
L'Air du Désert Marocain by Tauer
Andy Tauer - L'Air du Desert Morocain
I once tested all of Tauer's perfumes in one go and was sick for 2 days after that; I call it the Tauer's stress-syndrome now... All his perfumes have a sort of chemical sharpness to them, which I guess I am allergic to - so smelling this isn't an easy task.
L'Air smells like pepper, frankincense, cederwood, styrax, myrrh, labdanum and vanilla mixed down in a slobby fashion where no note climbs up the stage and shows its true character - instead all the individual qualities of the notes get snowed under in a kakafonie of smells that only get to sing in a clear and clean tonality in its late dryout. Still - just smelling some good quality frankincense sorts out a much better effect then smelling L'air, in my opinion. I'm gonna try to scrub this of my hand now with some similar smelling handsoap... I feel Tauer's stress-syndrome taking control of my body now; making my nose, head and eyes hurt and ache, increasing my hart-rate and letting my right-leg nervously shake in a uncontrollable way...
Still in the mist of this all, I can smell that Andy Tauer put his very best in this one - so I hope that there are many people out there that are able to like this perfume. Andy Tauer deserves his succes.
I once tested all of Tauer's perfumes in one go and was sick for 2 days after that; I call it the Tauer's stress-syndrome now... All his perfumes have a sort of chemical sharpness to them, which I guess I am allergic to - so smelling this isn't an easy task.
L'Air smells like pepper, frankincense, cederwood, styrax, myrrh, labdanum and vanilla mixed down in a slobby fashion where no note climbs up the stage and shows its true character - instead all the individual qualities of the notes get snowed under in a kakafonie of smells that only get to sing in a clear and clean tonality in its late dryout. Still - just smelling some good quality frankincense sorts out a much better effect then smelling L'air, in my opinion. I'm gonna try to scrub this of my hand now with some similar smelling handsoap... I feel Tauer's stress-syndrome taking control of my body now; making my nose, head and eyes hurt and ache, increasing my hart-rate and letting my right-leg nervously shake in a uncontrollable way...
Still in the mist of this all, I can smell that Andy Tauer put his very best in this one - so I hope that there are many people out there that are able to like this perfume. Andy Tauer deserves his succes.
Eau Suave by Parfum d'Empire
Parfume d'Empire - Eau Sauve
A good perfume made with ditto materials that in the end misses a slight focus on its projection during its early dryout. The opening is very promising with a blast of peppery cumin, coriander and saffron - heated up by the idea of incense; I like good, expressive openings in a perfume. It gets to smell really fruity - like a nectarine and strawberry-juice that has been aromatized with lemonpeels that gives it a guava-tropical and orangey touch with a hint of clove. This grows into a moist-greenish fruity tone with a juicy 'snapped stem'-note, which to my taste gets a bit too sweet and easygoing. It gets a sourish-note like ginger, a soft floral note of lavender and somehow I spotted a light touch of tobacco.. A more raw and serious oily-green note grows with a more tight and grip-feel to it; while at the same time losing expression of its aromaticness. It gets a bit 'tame' and a bland taste to it, growing into a more airy-mentholic and very soft soapy/mossy kind of way, together with the pulpfruit-fleshy note of osmanthus(?), a pinch of rose and the green toned down to a herbal green-tea note.
A very joyful perfume with a soft, easy, friendly character and a 'natural' harmonious flow to it - never aggressive but always polite in a well-dressed kind of manner. Must smell very nice on a woman in springtime that's enjoying lunch in the sun with her soulmate - Eau Sauve is a good perfume to accompanying a good friend, good food and a good glass of Soave...
A good perfume made with ditto materials that in the end misses a slight focus on its projection during its early dryout. The opening is very promising with a blast of peppery cumin, coriander and saffron - heated up by the idea of incense; I like good, expressive openings in a perfume. It gets to smell really fruity - like a nectarine and strawberry-juice that has been aromatized with lemonpeels that gives it a guava-tropical and orangey touch with a hint of clove. This grows into a moist-greenish fruity tone with a juicy 'snapped stem'-note, which to my taste gets a bit too sweet and easygoing. It gets a sourish-note like ginger, a soft floral note of lavender and somehow I spotted a light touch of tobacco.. A more raw and serious oily-green note grows with a more tight and grip-feel to it; while at the same time losing expression of its aromaticness. It gets a bit 'tame' and a bland taste to it, growing into a more airy-mentholic and very soft soapy/mossy kind of way, together with the pulpfruit-fleshy note of osmanthus(?), a pinch of rose and the green toned down to a herbal green-tea note.
A very joyful perfume with a soft, easy, friendly character and a 'natural' harmonious flow to it - never aggressive but always polite in a well-dressed kind of manner. Must smell very nice on a woman in springtime that's enjoying lunch in the sun with her soulmate - Eau Sauve is a good perfume to accompanying a good friend, good food and a good glass of Soave...
Untitled No.2 by Magnetic Scent
Magnetic Scents - Untitled No.2
I think there is a reason why this perfume hasn't got a name, cause it smells like an unfinished perfume that is still in a trial-stage - not really good, not very bad, neither flesh or fish. It moves in a uninspired way with a dressed-up character but a nervous and introvert personality. Smelling this is like watching a movie without the sound - it is nicely floating by, but without any plot-twists that makes it exciting or captivating.
What I smell in its start is bay leaf, ginger, cumin, caraway, anise and maybe nutmeg with a leading role for cinnamon - with its high diffusive-power, and somehow all this smells like how a garam masala spice-mix smells like out of a canister from the store. It altogether radiates a warm and gritty texture that you can actually 'feel'. From here it gets some sweeter and more floral, but the musty-spicy bitterness of the cinnamon doesn't quite match the sourness of the rose in here, giving this scent a nervous-like quality that doesn't make it a comfortable smelling. There isn't just enough movement and dynamics that gives No.2 a lush and easy flow. It catches a cacao-note, that together with the cinnamon and rose makes it gourmand-like and gives the impression of fenugreek, before settling down in vanilla with a dried herbal, clove-like aspect - which smells rather nicely.
No.2 stretches itself in one long monotonous moan, with a decent expression of its aromatics, but fails to really tell a story or recite any poetic quotes of itself while its underway - forgetting to make contact with me as a wearer and keeping its secrets to itself... No.2introvert?
I think there is a reason why this perfume hasn't got a name, cause it smells like an unfinished perfume that is still in a trial-stage - not really good, not very bad, neither flesh or fish. It moves in a uninspired way with a dressed-up character but a nervous and introvert personality. Smelling this is like watching a movie without the sound - it is nicely floating by, but without any plot-twists that makes it exciting or captivating.
What I smell in its start is bay leaf, ginger, cumin, caraway, anise and maybe nutmeg with a leading role for cinnamon - with its high diffusive-power, and somehow all this smells like how a garam masala spice-mix smells like out of a canister from the store. It altogether radiates a warm and gritty texture that you can actually 'feel'. From here it gets some sweeter and more floral, but the musty-spicy bitterness of the cinnamon doesn't quite match the sourness of the rose in here, giving this scent a nervous-like quality that doesn't make it a comfortable smelling. There isn't just enough movement and dynamics that gives No.2 a lush and easy flow. It catches a cacao-note, that together with the cinnamon and rose makes it gourmand-like and gives the impression of fenugreek, before settling down in vanilla with a dried herbal, clove-like aspect - which smells rather nicely.
No.2 stretches itself in one long monotonous moan, with a decent expression of its aromatics, but fails to really tell a story or recite any poetic quotes of itself while its underway - forgetting to make contact with me as a wearer and keeping its secrets to itself... No.2introvert?
Puro Lino by Puro Lino
Puro Lino - Puro Lino
First of all, I respect the independent guy from puro lino for putting his own brand on the market. But no living human-being could sniff this, buy this and use it on a regular basis, attaching memories to it; unless your sense of smell is lost or very weak... The first whiff, a fragile sweet rosewater on jasmine-petals note, is nice for about 5 seconds before its being taken over by a so obnoxious and crude soap note, that I thought it got me fainting... Puro Lino reminds me of the green colored blocks of Palmolive-soap from the time when I was a kid, and also of all the toilets that I have ever used in my life so far - so, not pleasant memories all the way, I can assure you... This perfume tries to settle down in a freshly washed, thick cotton blankets note that's steeped in soft-floral and powdery iris with rooty and darky soil aspects; but unfortunately, that sharp-soapy note is never far away.... This perfume deserves a more 'subtle' name: Puro Sapono extreme.
First of all, I respect the independent guy from puro lino for putting his own brand on the market. But no living human-being could sniff this, buy this and use it on a regular basis, attaching memories to it; unless your sense of smell is lost or very weak... The first whiff, a fragile sweet rosewater on jasmine-petals note, is nice for about 5 seconds before its being taken over by a so obnoxious and crude soap note, that I thought it got me fainting... Puro Lino reminds me of the green colored blocks of Palmolive-soap from the time when I was a kid, and also of all the toilets that I have ever used in my life so far - so, not pleasant memories all the way, I can assure you... This perfume tries to settle down in a freshly washed, thick cotton blankets note that's steeped in soft-floral and powdery iris with rooty and darky soil aspects; but unfortunately, that sharp-soapy note is never far away.... This perfume deserves a more 'subtle' name: Puro Sapono extreme.
Fat Electrician by Etat Libre d'Orange
Etat Libre d'Orange - Fat Electrician
Yes, there are actually people who smell like this; people like fat electricians who sit around and eat more than do any work, and when they do, they sweat a lot and smell like Fat Electrician. The one and only true inspiration for this perfume must have been without a doubt, a smelly fat electrician, being invited in the house of a perfumer who gained instant inspiration for a new perfume by this encounter....
Fat Electrician smells like fresh cotton fabric drenched in fresh sweat together with the warm radiation of a 'fat', fleshy-oily, fresh leathery smell of the warmth of fat electrician's skin; a sort of creamy-nutty, dirty-smoky, and spiced-greeny smell. It opens with salty lemonpeel, 'chestnut', fresh vetiver, pepper and a touch of cinnamon, creating a warm dusty, spiced-smoky and gritty texture. It gets rounder and more 'weighted' due to oppoponax, the clever use of medicinal-resinous myrrh and a smooth woody-earthy note of patchouli. The vetiver grows stronger - giving it a crisp and rawish-rooty green note that reminds me of freshly cut paprika and the flesh of olives - before catching a more dirty animalic smokiness with hints of dark chocolate and coffee, that introduces the salty hay-like touched vanilla-pots.
Fat Electrician keeps a great focus on a smoky, 'weighted' warmth with a counteract of fresh green-juicy notes, resulting in a very potent sour-bitter scentprofile that attracts and turns-off at the same time. A highly original perfume that intrigues from start to finish. Very well done.
Yes, there are actually people who smell like this; people like fat electricians who sit around and eat more than do any work, and when they do, they sweat a lot and smell like Fat Electrician. The one and only true inspiration for this perfume must have been without a doubt, a smelly fat electrician, being invited in the house of a perfumer who gained instant inspiration for a new perfume by this encounter....
Fat Electrician smells like fresh cotton fabric drenched in fresh sweat together with the warm radiation of a 'fat', fleshy-oily, fresh leathery smell of the warmth of fat electrician's skin; a sort of creamy-nutty, dirty-smoky, and spiced-greeny smell. It opens with salty lemonpeel, 'chestnut', fresh vetiver, pepper and a touch of cinnamon, creating a warm dusty, spiced-smoky and gritty texture. It gets rounder and more 'weighted' due to oppoponax, the clever use of medicinal-resinous myrrh and a smooth woody-earthy note of patchouli. The vetiver grows stronger - giving it a crisp and rawish-rooty green note that reminds me of freshly cut paprika and the flesh of olives - before catching a more dirty animalic smokiness with hints of dark chocolate and coffee, that introduces the salty hay-like touched vanilla-pots.
Fat Electrician keeps a great focus on a smoky, 'weighted' warmth with a counteract of fresh green-juicy notes, resulting in a very potent sour-bitter scentprofile that attracts and turns-off at the same time. A highly original perfume that intrigues from start to finish. Very well done.
Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange
Etat Libre d'Orange - Tom of Finland
A hard to digest and very turn-off perfume for me - it tries to stand out but fails by lacking structure and a clear vision. Different kind of notes pop up, screaming for attention but they stand alone in a mix that doesnt has enough linear flow to it.
It has a cold anisic-'vodka'(Finlandia?) opening, followed by an almost 'icy' mentholic-peppery spiciness together with green geranium/lavender/cypres-notes and candlewax-aldehydes, with tonka-bean already peeping through. There is safraleine with a hot-herbal tone that later on gets to smell like a mix of roundish wood-notes with a nice tobacco-like side to it, that, to my taste is its best moment. It moves to a thin leathery note with green lemons rubbed in it, which then is drowned in a bath of sweet berry-syrup which makes it somehow smell like 'liquid marzipan in a rusty metal cup' - with a harsh bitter-sour smell reminding of pieces of banana steeped in grapefruit-juice.
This is the point where my nose gets frustrated and only slightly recovers deep in its dryout, when a nice salty vanilla-note is displayed. Strange that it settles down in a big amber kind-of-way and trying to combine it with a suede-leather note that smells more like foldable plastic. There are interesting notes in this perfume but it smells more like a exhibition of smells than actually focus on a stable balance in its blending. Tom can stay in Finland.
A hard to digest and very turn-off perfume for me - it tries to stand out but fails by lacking structure and a clear vision. Different kind of notes pop up, screaming for attention but they stand alone in a mix that doesnt has enough linear flow to it.
It has a cold anisic-'vodka'(Finlandia?) opening, followed by an almost 'icy' mentholic-peppery spiciness together with green geranium/lavender/cypres-notes and candlewax-aldehydes, with tonka-bean already peeping through. There is safraleine with a hot-herbal tone that later on gets to smell like a mix of roundish wood-notes with a nice tobacco-like side to it, that, to my taste is its best moment. It moves to a thin leathery note with green lemons rubbed in it, which then is drowned in a bath of sweet berry-syrup which makes it somehow smell like 'liquid marzipan in a rusty metal cup' - with a harsh bitter-sour smell reminding of pieces of banana steeped in grapefruit-juice.
This is the point where my nose gets frustrated and only slightly recovers deep in its dryout, when a nice salty vanilla-note is displayed. Strange that it settles down in a big amber kind-of-way and trying to combine it with a suede-leather note that smells more like foldable plastic. There are interesting notes in this perfume but it smells more like a exhibition of smells than actually focus on a stable balance in its blending. Tom can stay in Finland.
Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro
Azzaro - Azzaro pour Homme
I cant explain why this is soo good, but it is... Its opening is maybe a bit too in-your-face and brusque; greatly efficient but not too very refined and quiet, but it settles down in the most beautiful and subtle, warm piquant-green dryout ever. Not very big or full, but loud in a very concentrated kind of way - it manifests a tremendous compressed and lively aromaticness with a lot of fraicheur. And while doing so, it doesn't try to impress or to be more than it can be - it knows what its qualities are and delivers them without any boasting and bragging, in perfect form; like Ayrton Senna racing on the grand prix of Monaco.
It kicks off with a blast of anisic, slight soapy clary sage with a peppery feel, and warm spicy juniper-berry. Then it grows to soft-floral lavender with coolish cardamon and lemony green petit-grain with cedarwood, green pine, basil and anise; which has a juicy and lively green flow to it. Somehow this part gets a bit blurry and blown-up to my taste; a very rich melting-pot of notes - but after this it somehow manages to extract the essence of all that is going on, in one focused and compressed 'shine' that radiates a lot of warmth and a superb sweet-bitter balance. Patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood? are joining and preluding its slight salty and dirty animalic, piquant greeny, caraway-spicy toned, oakmoss-based dryout.
As a whole - this makes a perfume that is almost impossible to dislike; it is simply built with too much intensity, fine-tuned quality and simplicity. Unique, and one of a kind.
I cant explain why this is soo good, but it is... Its opening is maybe a bit too in-your-face and brusque; greatly efficient but not too very refined and quiet, but it settles down in the most beautiful and subtle, warm piquant-green dryout ever. Not very big or full, but loud in a very concentrated kind of way - it manifests a tremendous compressed and lively aromaticness with a lot of fraicheur. And while doing so, it doesn't try to impress or to be more than it can be - it knows what its qualities are and delivers them without any boasting and bragging, in perfect form; like Ayrton Senna racing on the grand prix of Monaco.
It kicks off with a blast of anisic, slight soapy clary sage with a peppery feel, and warm spicy juniper-berry. Then it grows to soft-floral lavender with coolish cardamon and lemony green petit-grain with cedarwood, green pine, basil and anise; which has a juicy and lively green flow to it. Somehow this part gets a bit blurry and blown-up to my taste; a very rich melting-pot of notes - but after this it somehow manages to extract the essence of all that is going on, in one focused and compressed 'shine' that radiates a lot of warmth and a superb sweet-bitter balance. Patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood? are joining and preluding its slight salty and dirty animalic, piquant greeny, caraway-spicy toned, oakmoss-based dryout.
As a whole - this makes a perfume that is almost impossible to dislike; it is simply built with too much intensity, fine-tuned quality and simplicity. Unique, and one of a kind.
Sacred Wood by By Kilian
Killian - Sacred Wood
Not so much with a lot of sandalwood - more about sandalwood; it sort of reconstructs the feel of it with other materials then just sandalwood until it starts to shine more by itself. Calice Becker somehow manages to dress the sandalwood up by accentuating the specific notes that sandalwood wears on its own. Its peppery lemon-like top, musty old dust-like aspects, a sort of fruitpulpy waxy-fleshness, urinic blank wood, citronella/camphor-notes, raw edged woodchip-flavor, cool-minty undertones and a creamy oiliness. I guess Iso E Super plays a mayor role in this composition as well, to give it a airy and transparent feel. Sacred Wood makes me think of freshly crushed coriander-seeds, wet cedarwood, dusty waxed church-floors and the coolness a church radiates, old library-books, menthol-mints and a combination of black and green tea. It gets a more rounder and sweeter tone towards its dryout and some warm, light resinous-incense and salty undertones.
All this time that I'm smelling Sacred Wood, instead of sandalwood, it reminds me more of nagamotha - I miss that sexy and round, creamy lushness that sandalwood can have; in here it smells more like a sweet bitter almond note. Its a good composition, but it somehow lacks depth, juice and a lively 'sparkle'... it smells too well-behaved, too sterile - like a hospital corridor or the workplace of a chemical lab, where Sacred Wood was brought to life.
Not so much with a lot of sandalwood - more about sandalwood; it sort of reconstructs the feel of it with other materials then just sandalwood until it starts to shine more by itself. Calice Becker somehow manages to dress the sandalwood up by accentuating the specific notes that sandalwood wears on its own. Its peppery lemon-like top, musty old dust-like aspects, a sort of fruitpulpy waxy-fleshness, urinic blank wood, citronella/camphor-notes, raw edged woodchip-flavor, cool-minty undertones and a creamy oiliness. I guess Iso E Super plays a mayor role in this composition as well, to give it a airy and transparent feel. Sacred Wood makes me think of freshly crushed coriander-seeds, wet cedarwood, dusty waxed church-floors and the coolness a church radiates, old library-books, menthol-mints and a combination of black and green tea. It gets a more rounder and sweeter tone towards its dryout and some warm, light resinous-incense and salty undertones.
All this time that I'm smelling Sacred Wood, instead of sandalwood, it reminds me more of nagamotha - I miss that sexy and round, creamy lushness that sandalwood can have; in here it smells more like a sweet bitter almond note. Its a good composition, but it somehow lacks depth, juice and a lively 'sparkle'... it smells too well-behaved, too sterile - like a hospital corridor or the workplace of a chemical lab, where Sacred Wood was brought to life.
Ambra Nobile by Nobile 1942
Nobile 1942 - Ambra Nobile
This smells like something out of 1942... stored in full daylight and not corked properly. No freshness, just a sort artificial, lime-like sharpness that makes this a real turnoff. A terrible mixed juice that smells like hairspray, paint and glue (mixing cistus and vetiver is not a good idea...) - topped of with a squealing tonka-bean/vanillin note that was marinated in a mix of musty old squeezed orange and lemon-peels, and the water of a bouquet of roses that wasn't refreshed for about a year. Cheap 'perfume' for a 'cheap' price. Who wants to smell like this? Ambra Horribile...
This smells like something out of 1942... stored in full daylight and not corked properly. No freshness, just a sort artificial, lime-like sharpness that makes this a real turnoff. A terrible mixed juice that smells like hairspray, paint and glue (mixing cistus and vetiver is not a good idea...) - topped of with a squealing tonka-bean/vanillin note that was marinated in a mix of musty old squeezed orange and lemon-peels, and the water of a bouquet of roses that wasn't refreshed for about a year. Cheap 'perfume' for a 'cheap' price. Who wants to smell like this? Ambra Horribile...
Colonia Intensa Oud/ Colonia Oud by Acqua di Parma
Aqua di Parma - Oud
Funny how Oud never can seems to get its engine started, while on the other hand it manages to smell like a overheated car-engine...
Its opening is a mix of bitter-sour, paprika-green oily-like stuff, that not at any time reaches a level of attractiveness - it smells like cistus with warm rubber-plastic-metal edges to it. After that it gets slightly better with a more dry resinous-woody note, assisted by a sweet-like orange note of maybe neroli/orangeblossom, and bitter almonds that gives it a more rounder feel - but still not attractive. There is a red strawberry/raspberry note that doesn't dress up the oud in a haut-couture kind of way, more like slutty (like a whore that applies too much, too red-colored lipstick) - before the salty and slight musty, tarry character of it comes through in a powdery and anisic-soapy fashion; still too bitter-sourish, in a unattractive kind of way. I guess, handling oud requires a focused and clever look at its partnering with other basenotes, to make it work as a whole - instead of dressing it up with fancy top- en middle-notes. In the end, Oud settles down in a nice, amyris/oudish-way with a 'fleshy'-leather touch, but you wonder why you have to go through some much noise, before hearing that clear note. I rather like smelling pure oud then Oud.
Funny how Oud never can seems to get its engine started, while on the other hand it manages to smell like a overheated car-engine...
Its opening is a mix of bitter-sour, paprika-green oily-like stuff, that not at any time reaches a level of attractiveness - it smells like cistus with warm rubber-plastic-metal edges to it. After that it gets slightly better with a more dry resinous-woody note, assisted by a sweet-like orange note of maybe neroli/orangeblossom, and bitter almonds that gives it a more rounder feel - but still not attractive. There is a red strawberry/raspberry note that doesn't dress up the oud in a haut-couture kind of way, more like slutty (like a whore that applies too much, too red-colored lipstick) - before the salty and slight musty, tarry character of it comes through in a powdery and anisic-soapy fashion; still too bitter-sourish, in a unattractive kind of way. I guess, handling oud requires a focused and clever look at its partnering with other basenotes, to make it work as a whole - instead of dressing it up with fancy top- en middle-notes. In the end, Oud settles down in a nice, amyris/oudish-way with a 'fleshy'-leather touch, but you wonder why you have to go through some much noise, before hearing that clear note. I rather like smelling pure oud then Oud.
Cravache by Robert Piguet
Robert Piquet - Cravache
I was surprised with this one - its actually a reformulation that is done very well, in my opinion. Its a perfume with a subtle and 'classic' scent-profile that nevertheless smells modern and original. It keeps a green-spicy, dirty note till in its dryout and bares a light, collected and airy feel with a mystical touch to itself; that is especially suitable for a sunny day when you have the day to yourself and can do what you like, without any rush. Its a fresh, relaxed and at the same time very alert perfume that keeps its focus right on the heart of the moment of things. The original must have had much more leather-base, although this one has a slight smoky, brushed-off leathery touch in it, just enough to give it a certain 'tension' and grip.
It starts with a very peppery-fresh, dirty-spicy(nutmeg) intro of hesperides, sourish lemon, bergamot and petitgrain - with a herbal-greenish note - that fits the vetiver and the clary sage, which reminded me of thyme with a touch of spearmint. Lavender brings in softness, pine accentuates the greenness, and there is some rosemary and some oiliness that reminds of orangeblossom, and a very slight floral hint of rose in the background. Its dryout is a combination of upfront spicy-musty nutmeg, a clean rawish vetiver and a polished patchouli, with the suggestion of an oakmoss-softness; that altogether still smells lively, airy and transparent.
Cravache is an honest, introvert and 'simple' smelling perfume with a bite - like a cologne with a twist, and has a great balance of warmth and coolness. My only complaint is that it doesn't last very long and gets a bit 'tasteless' and dull, but then I don't mind to spray this one more time - and again, and again... Good, potent stuff, that deserves more attention.
I was surprised with this one - its actually a reformulation that is done very well, in my opinion. Its a perfume with a subtle and 'classic' scent-profile that nevertheless smells modern and original. It keeps a green-spicy, dirty note till in its dryout and bares a light, collected and airy feel with a mystical touch to itself; that is especially suitable for a sunny day when you have the day to yourself and can do what you like, without any rush. Its a fresh, relaxed and at the same time very alert perfume that keeps its focus right on the heart of the moment of things. The original must have had much more leather-base, although this one has a slight smoky, brushed-off leathery touch in it, just enough to give it a certain 'tension' and grip.
It starts with a very peppery-fresh, dirty-spicy(nutmeg) intro of hesperides, sourish lemon, bergamot and petitgrain - with a herbal-greenish note - that fits the vetiver and the clary sage, which reminded me of thyme with a touch of spearmint. Lavender brings in softness, pine accentuates the greenness, and there is some rosemary and some oiliness that reminds of orangeblossom, and a very slight floral hint of rose in the background. Its dryout is a combination of upfront spicy-musty nutmeg, a clean rawish vetiver and a polished patchouli, with the suggestion of an oakmoss-softness; that altogether still smells lively, airy and transparent.
Cravache is an honest, introvert and 'simple' smelling perfume with a bite - like a cologne with a twist, and has a great balance of warmth and coolness. My only complaint is that it doesn't last very long and gets a bit 'tasteless' and dull, but then I don't mind to spray this one more time - and again, and again... Good, potent stuff, that deserves more attention.
Dark Saphir by Agonist
Agonist - Dark Saphir
What a horrible creation. Wearing this perfume(?) is far more difficult than describing it. Unstructured, flat, dull, zero personality and full of natural ingredients(?), that in this blend smell too chemical. It smells like: 1) very cheap ginger-ale, 2) a homemade scroppino which got the ratio's all wrong, 3) sour lemon-sorbet 4), the inside of a new plastic bag, and 5) the flint of a disposable lighter; firmly pressed together and cranked up to a high volume-level that altogether gives Dark Saphir a penetrant and musty sour-bitter taste of smell, that is hard to bare for my nose. Sweden is a land renown for its reliable made products with a great feel of design; this thing manages to impart none of those qualities. I don't hope that Dark Saphir sets the tone for the whole range of the Agonist-product line. Unskillful made perfume.
What a horrible creation. Wearing this perfume(?) is far more difficult than describing it. Unstructured, flat, dull, zero personality and full of natural ingredients(?), that in this blend smell too chemical. It smells like: 1) very cheap ginger-ale, 2) a homemade scroppino which got the ratio's all wrong, 3) sour lemon-sorbet 4), the inside of a new plastic bag, and 5) the flint of a disposable lighter; firmly pressed together and cranked up to a high volume-level that altogether gives Dark Saphir a penetrant and musty sour-bitter taste of smell, that is hard to bare for my nose. Sweden is a land renown for its reliable made products with a great feel of design; this thing manages to impart none of those qualities. I don't hope that Dark Saphir sets the tone for the whole range of the Agonist-product line. Unskillful made perfume.
Musc by Réminiscence
Reminiscense - Musc
For something that comes from Reminiscense and smells so chemical, its not all that bad. Not a perfume with a clear and trapless moving structure, but for Musc that's not a big problem I guess it suppose to smell rowdy and bumpy. I like Musc because it smells simple and doesn't has a ton of tricks upon its sleeve; no surprises - just a soft, sweetened milky-soapy, vanillin-floral and bitter-almond musk with a gritty and dirty oil-like note that grows in strength and soft- and powderness. This is more a scent for young girls trying to find their way out of puberty, making the step to become a grown-up - Musc radiates that same curious and buoyant feeling of finding out about life. It smells a bit too candylike(bubblegum)-cheapish to make this fit on an adult.
It opens with praline, bitter almond and the smell of Dreft green washing-liquid and turns to a more of a bitter-amber note, ylang/white floral with geraniol/limonene etc, and ends in a sweet and bitter lactone gourmand-musk with puffs of sandalwood/iris, in a blast of vanillin, that gets a somewhat harsh and sharp edge to it - typical for perfumes of R'scense in my opinion.
I imagine this as a can of Axe Africa that accidently has been dropped in the gorilla-habitat of a zoo - the stinky animals trying to find out what it is, spraying each other, filling the air with a mix of the deodorant-smell and the brutal animalic stink of the apes. Musc would fit perfectly well under the smelly armpit of a gorilla...
For something that comes from Reminiscense and smells so chemical, its not all that bad. Not a perfume with a clear and trapless moving structure, but for Musc that's not a big problem I guess it suppose to smell rowdy and bumpy. I like Musc because it smells simple and doesn't has a ton of tricks upon its sleeve; no surprises - just a soft, sweetened milky-soapy, vanillin-floral and bitter-almond musk with a gritty and dirty oil-like note that grows in strength and soft- and powderness. This is more a scent for young girls trying to find their way out of puberty, making the step to become a grown-up - Musc radiates that same curious and buoyant feeling of finding out about life. It smells a bit too candylike(bubblegum)-cheapish to make this fit on an adult.
It opens with praline, bitter almond and the smell of Dreft green washing-liquid and turns to a more of a bitter-amber note, ylang/white floral with geraniol/limonene etc, and ends in a sweet and bitter lactone gourmand-musk with puffs of sandalwood/iris, in a blast of vanillin, that gets a somewhat harsh and sharp edge to it - typical for perfumes of R'scense in my opinion.
I imagine this as a can of Axe Africa that accidently has been dropped in the gorilla-habitat of a zoo - the stinky animals trying to find out what it is, spraying each other, filling the air with a mix of the deodorant-smell and the brutal animalic stink of the apes. Musc would fit perfectly well under the smelly armpit of a gorilla...
Scent Intense by Costume National
Costume National - Scent Intense
This is clearly a perfume with a schizophrenic personality disorder - it can't make up its mind on who to behave. It somehow smells like a CdC2, Terre d'Hermes and an Aqua di Gio-on steroids with a touch of Allure p.h, all-in-one, switching from the one to the other, and trying to connect it all with a sort off raw, sweaty-oily cotton tone that fails to bring this perfume home in its vanillin-based dry-out.
It smells like the end of a road to the beach, meeting the sand of the dunes, on a hot day - where a salty, green seaweedy-breeze meets the smell of congested garbage-bins full off plastic, ice-cream paperwraps, empty soda-cans, half-rotten fruit of apples/oranges and French fries with mayonnaise; for me Scent Intense smells like sticking your head in such a garbage-bin. I bet you attract a lot of wasps when you wear this one - they are probably the only living creatures on this planet who like it... Good job.
This is clearly a perfume with a schizophrenic personality disorder - it can't make up its mind on who to behave. It somehow smells like a CdC2, Terre d'Hermes and an Aqua di Gio-on steroids with a touch of Allure p.h, all-in-one, switching from the one to the other, and trying to connect it all with a sort off raw, sweaty-oily cotton tone that fails to bring this perfume home in its vanillin-based dry-out.
It smells like the end of a road to the beach, meeting the sand of the dunes, on a hot day - where a salty, green seaweedy-breeze meets the smell of congested garbage-bins full off plastic, ice-cream paperwraps, empty soda-cans, half-rotten fruit of apples/oranges and French fries with mayonnaise; for me Scent Intense smells like sticking your head in such a garbage-bin. I bet you attract a lot of wasps when you wear this one - they are probably the only living creatures on this planet who like it... Good job.
L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake - L'Eau D'Issey
I got it. This doesn't smell like water, but smells like someone who is in need of water. Stranded in a trafficjam in the middle of Tokyo during summertime, the sun burning hot, in a car with the bitter-oily smell of the heated plastic interior, the fading floral freshness and sweet, green algae-smell of a bouquet of mixed flowers on the backseat, the warm nylon smell of the hot seat covering, the smell of hot carglass mixed with the exhaust-fumes of the other traffic, the minty smell of bubblegum that the driver is chewing and the sticky smell of deodorant that does the job well... but above all - the smell of the desperate and strong desire for a bottle of fresh, cold water...
Where L'eau shines, is in its fresh cucumber-green, cool ozonic-minty, coniferous-spicy, linalool-flowery, and sandelwood/oakmoss-soft dryout. I remember myself liking this back in the days a lot more; I guess this one shows that taste of smell changes through the years - and I thank God it did...
I got it. This doesn't smell like water, but smells like someone who is in need of water. Stranded in a trafficjam in the middle of Tokyo during summertime, the sun burning hot, in a car with the bitter-oily smell of the heated plastic interior, the fading floral freshness and sweet, green algae-smell of a bouquet of mixed flowers on the backseat, the warm nylon smell of the hot seat covering, the smell of hot carglass mixed with the exhaust-fumes of the other traffic, the minty smell of bubblegum that the driver is chewing and the sticky smell of deodorant that does the job well... but above all - the smell of the desperate and strong desire for a bottle of fresh, cold water...
Where L'eau shines, is in its fresh cucumber-green, cool ozonic-minty, coniferous-spicy, linalool-flowery, and sandelwood/oakmoss-soft dryout. I remember myself liking this back in the days a lot more; I guess this one shows that taste of smell changes through the years - and I thank God it did...
Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange
Secretions Magnifique - Etat Libre d'Orange
Heard so much about this one, being a very dirty smell, that was almost 'impossible' to smell etc... Maybe I created to high hopes about SM inside my imagination, a perfume - thick, full and stuffed with dirty, bloody and animalic notes.
So, when I smelled this, the first thing I thought was: ''this isn't the real thing'', and the second was: ''this is a joke...'' And it turns out, it is a joke - this perfume is fun, full of humor and 'easy' to wear. To me it smelled thin, very chemical and definitely not as shocking as I imagined it - which was a disappointment, in a way. What I did smell was mushrooms, egg-protein, the smell of jodium, a high-pitched rusty-metallic, spicy-note that smelled like blood, growing into a milky coconut-note dressed up in lactones and musk's. Best thing about it is the way the coconut-'cream' joints the blood-note; for the rest this thing did little for me, otherwise than offend me because I didn't like the highly synthetic tonality of it. I hoped that it would smell more like the animalic, 'juicy', fresh blood-way that women's period-blood smells like on a woman- with a more dirty-animalic 'thickness'. Instead - its nice to smell, in the light of the craft, but in the end it misses the 'fleshy'-factor that could have give it more boost. SM scores points for originality - no doubt, but I would have want to see this perfume suffer more, losing more blood... Less magnifique, more secretions.
Heard so much about this one, being a very dirty smell, that was almost 'impossible' to smell etc... Maybe I created to high hopes about SM inside my imagination, a perfume - thick, full and stuffed with dirty, bloody and animalic notes.
So, when I smelled this, the first thing I thought was: ''this isn't the real thing'', and the second was: ''this is a joke...'' And it turns out, it is a joke - this perfume is fun, full of humor and 'easy' to wear. To me it smelled thin, very chemical and definitely not as shocking as I imagined it - which was a disappointment, in a way. What I did smell was mushrooms, egg-protein, the smell of jodium, a high-pitched rusty-metallic, spicy-note that smelled like blood, growing into a milky coconut-note dressed up in lactones and musk's. Best thing about it is the way the coconut-'cream' joints the blood-note; for the rest this thing did little for me, otherwise than offend me because I didn't like the highly synthetic tonality of it. I hoped that it would smell more like the animalic, 'juicy', fresh blood-way that women's period-blood smells like on a woman- with a more dirty-animalic 'thickness'. Instead - its nice to smell, in the light of the craft, but in the end it misses the 'fleshy'-factor that could have give it more boost. SM scores points for originality - no doubt, but I would have want to see this perfume suffer more, losing more blood... Less magnifique, more secretions.
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