Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A luxurious rendition of a - to me - very spicy woody gently gourmand perfume, without any of the crass maltol can bring. I love the arguments about the quality of Malle's collection being lessened by the partnership with Lauder, personally I thought it was a clever move to protect his brand from the ravages of the perfume sensors, in hope for the industry lobbying successfully at some stage to protect it self from them, and the bleak future of niche luxury perfumery, the David & Goliath fight may not end up in this arena in quite the same way as in the biblical allegory, the rising cost of ingredients both natural and synthetic is never ending for various reasons and the availability to smaller houses also more challenging every year, and now Covid exasperating those issues and footfall challenges have to make you wonder how many small houses are already in line for the chopping block.
So is there Mysore sandalo in here? my bottle is ancient as it was purchased on launch, so yes I would trust that it has, do the newer (dear I mention the dreaded B word) batches post Lauder? well considering the ethical difficulties now entwined with the glorious Indian wood I would imagine that they may have had to go a to a different country to secure it as many other houses have done too, and I also feel certain it has nothing to do with bottom line profit but ethical and responsible sourcing, so all the doubters and conspiracy theorists please take off the tin hats, sadly life is much duller and logical than is sometimes imagined! The quality of the E.D.P. collection remains outstanding - within the censorship parameters.
Anyway this is simply perfect for a chilly English autumn Sunday, cosy, warm and glam, and now pouring a glass of Glen Garioch to go with...
Oct 11, 2020

Oolang Infini by Atelier Cologne

Always surprised how many people cant smell this, I adore it, find it suitably tenacious, all day freshness, hours after spraying I will catch a whiff and it is still as crisp and refreshing as on applying. Pure as driven snow, cool, calm, zen... spray a little on your clothes or hair too, I must say I find the tea smoky oolang note very subtle and the woods are played down massively to allow the icy coolness of the perfume to continue, it almost feels linear not changing terribly much from start to finish.
Oct 11, 2020

Agent Provocateur Strip by Agent Provocateur

Provenziano did a great job here, sexy sultry kind of chypre back on the last good days of the brand. Wild in the jungle...
Oct 9, 2020

Pino Silvestre by Silvestre

Mediterranean legend, a quick escape to the forest, timeless.
Oct 9, 2020

Chèvrefeuille by Yves Rocher

One of my first fragrances, I imagine if tis still around its not worth bothering with, but my recollection of it in the 80's is of a happy pretty fresh floral, full of charm and sparkle, so easy to wear, like a lovely walk through a spring meadow making daisy chains and seeing butterflies flutter about the place, wearing a white cotton dress and stopping for lunch by a jasmine shrub near a little stream.
Oct 9, 2020

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

Still the perfect Oriental.
Decadent, dangerous (ok not as much as it used to be) full of promise of forbidden worlds way out of reach of mere mortals, although it was probably more crushed velvet and chunky gold plated bling at Les Bains Douche. The 80's Parfum 7.5 ml refillable is one of my fondest treasures, given to me by my school chums mum who was gifted it and hated it, she was more of a RG girl, lucky me!
I love Chantal Roos story of how much she cried at the loss of revenue when it sold out at launch and they had to wait for weeks and weeks for the bottles to be manufactured before they could replenish the stores. It was so scandalous that they didn't really expect it to take off - bless her, sure she got over it after the first few million bottles sold.
Oct 9, 2020

Yvresse / Champagne by Yves Saint Laurent

This what you wear on Christmas day if you want to piss everybody in the house off and ruin the turkey feast. Beware the last GWP was a fork to be stabbed in the eye with should you wear too much. Yep sillage from hell.
I always wondered what genius went from the notorious Champagne name to Yvresse, well done darling, clearly your finest hour!
Oct 9, 2020

Cherry Musk by Ramon Monegal

Cocooned in cherry blossom, joyful, pretty, long lasting great compliment giver, uncomplicated. Pretty on a girl, clean sexy on a man.
Oct 8, 2020

Cotton Musk by Ramon Monegal

Cotton clean Chanel five with out aldehydes meets body shop white musk - sexy crisp white shirt, love it!
Oct 8, 2020

Angel by Thierry Mugler

Have not worn this for at least a decade or more and it has been bastardised to death, but the original Eau de Parfum is and will always be a masterpiece. Has there been another gourmand that even comes close to the daddy?
I recall a scandal back in the early 90's when an early 20th century perfume house roughly copied the formula and bottled it in one of their 1920/30s perfumes pretending it was the original fragrance, thinking they would get away with it as up to that point in France no perfume house had ever sued another on the basis of copying. The Grande Damme behind Angel decided to break that tradition and took them to court, I believe the matter was settled out of legal chambers finally but lets say the older house ended up with quite a lot of oeuf on their face, there are lots of other dirt on how the battle was won but the point I'm making is that Angel is one of those rare animals that could not be compared to anything when it launched in 92, totally unique, perhaps the last time that was achieved in commercial perfumery. Last thing, like Aventus now, and all the other Boom Boom perfumes less is definitely more, death by Angel is not sexy its like being smothered to death by an aging cougar who really should stay at home and leave the club to her granddaughters!
Oct 8, 2020

Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens

The ultimate signature perfume since the 90's, its changed a little here and there of course suffering the usual assaults by IFRA and the SCCNFP's scalpel but its still glorious.
I recall the legend that is Yves de Chiris describing that after the usual toing and froing Serge declared he wanted a cake made out of woods which was the eureka moment. Interesting that Yves also was one of the holly trinity behind Angel which was in development at the same time, hhhmmmm 1992, a delicious year...
I stopped wearing Angel years ago but Femininte du Bois is the only juice I have ever been faithful to.
Oct 8, 2020

Parade by Céline

Feel good, fresh, clean in a luxurious Parisian kinda way, can not stop smelling my skin I smell divine, if this was a literary quote it would be 'Cleanliness is next to Godliness' because I am floating on a sunny cloud in a very expensive destination street in heaven somewhere.
Oct 8, 2020

Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

This is for the Rose and the Perfume fetishists - only grown ups allowed. Earthy, woody, uber luxurious and sensual. If Marlene D was still here this would follow her around mingling with her cigarette smoke.
Oct 8, 2020

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