Marand75

Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

GIVENCHY GENTLEMAN EdT.
This write-up is for a 2010-version (silver cap, black collar, single front-label, fat spray-tube).
Doing a sbs with my deep-vtg wrap-around label version, I "could" tell you that the 2010 version is criminally inferior shadow-of-its-former-self yadda-yadda-yadda and that you should only get the wrap-around label versions...but then I'd be a snobby bag of hot air and a liar, 'cause it's simply not true. YES, IT'S ALL SUBJECTIVE, however, the matter of fact is that you're simply not worse off getting a 2010 version. Vtg is beautiful but so is this. The only, to me, really percievable difference is that the patchouli in vtg is more pronounced, clear and defined (of the sweeter Indian kind). The rest is all there. Here comes the rambling part: "But what about the oakmoss and russian leather beep-beep-beep?!!". Yeah, whatabout it? Nothing! I can't smell those things in the vintages anyway. Like those folks saying "Whoooooaaa that's an Oakmoss-bomb! The oakmoss just jumps right out at ya and holds you hostage for hours, and..and..!". Uh, okay. And when does that happen, 'cause it's been a couple hours now and so far we're only talking, like, trace amounts here...? Disappointed...every...friggin...time. BUT this Gentleman delivers just as well as ol'-balls-Vintage! It's all about the patchouli, carnation and creamy woods anyway. Even hammering away better in the longevity department (10+ hrs on me). It's got it ALL! Trust me, it's ALL good with this "inferior" version! Subjective as this is, maybe YOU can smell all of these wonderful restricted and forbidden yummy notes?
Either way, 2010 was still a damn fine year for Givenchy Gentleman! Beep-beep, Ritchie..
Feb 10, 2021


Oleg Cassini for Men by Oleg Cassini

This review is for the 1980s Euroitalia version.

It has that similar mesmerizing aromatic feel as Francesco Smalto Edt Pour Homme ('87) that you just can't stop sniffing, adding to the opening a gorgeous subtle aroma of over-ripe fruits and then emerges this combination of castoreum (castoreyummy!), patchouli and oakmoss together with balanced florals that, to me, is so delicious that I just want it to last forever. However, it dries down and settles on my skin fairly quickly (2-3 hrs in, but still noticable to people around you) to something earthy, damp and soft (but not faint) leathery that lasts for the remainder of it's time. So it's not a beast, but it gives me 12+ hours of deliciousness when also applied to clothing (which I have to because my skin-type is quite dry).
This version of OCFM is quite simply one of the best (and sexiest) male frags I've smelled yet.
Jan 19, 2020


Halston Z-14 by Halston

Okay....this review is for a '90/'91 2oz splash cologne made by Halston N.Y. that I just purchased.
Oh...my...god I never thought Z-14 could smell this way! Now I know why this is categorized as a Leather.. Forget about current 'big red' or older 'big red', JG era or anything 2000s for that matter (not that they suck, though, but....) THIS! After the initial blast of alcohol, you get kicked in the teeth by a very persistant and powerful trinity of cypress, leather and LEMON which instantly reminds of vtg Eau Sauvage Extreme. From there on it just keeps on giving: lemon, green, cypress, leather, wood, moss, peppery florals and just beautifully aromatic and golden brown.
And after a few days of usage and air getting mixed into it, it kinda smoothes out and really comes to live.
Cinnamon, you ask? Yup, it's there. But it don't matter, cuz it plays supporting 8th fiddle or so in the background and you kinda forget about it along the way.
This juice sure is well-preserved and has most definately been stored properly. Un-opened, NOS, BNIB. It was an honour popping this cherry. So there.
Mar 28, 2019


Bowling Green by Geoffrey Beene

Bowling Green (EA version). Boy, this was a rude awakening at first. But I think I love it now. I really dig the initial massive assault of citrusses with the stem-like leafy greens. Then came the hollow EA-housenote of wet cardboard, and I thought 'oh no, here we go again...' but luckily that lasted only for a minute tops, and now I don't even notice it anymore.
The beauty is in the drydown and final stage. You get an aromatic-floral-woody aroma with the moss, citrus, sandalwood and everything good, with a subdued cinnamon appropriately lingering underneath it all, juuust enough to sense it. Now and then I get an '84 Lacoste-like whiff.
Performance is slightly above average, allthough I 'overspray' to make it last even longer and to really take in that citrus 'n' green onslaught.
Oh and the next day, your shirt smells incredible too...


Feb 14, 2019


Ferrari Cuvée Extra Rich Eau de Toilette by Ferrari

Ferrari Cuvée Edt Extra Rich. Discontinued.
Debut masculine from that house. Launched '88 (when my bottle is also from - see photo).
To my nose it's like Salvador Dali PH meets 1 Million and Francesco Smalto PH with a cherry/tobacco of Burberry London..
Woody, warm resinous, balsamic, damp green, aromatic with moss, citrus, tobacco and leather. Pretty damn smokin' but not really my thing. Should've gotten the Extra Dry version instead.
Superb quality, though, and ahead of it's time. You can easily pull this off today.
Feb 14, 2019


Denim Musk by Denim

I really like it. Unfortunately, because I detest vanilla and it's vile smell...I totally focused on that note. I shouldn't but I cannot help it, and it kinda ruined it for me, since I found the vanilla too prominent. In fact, it would've made sense to replace the vanilla in favor of MUSK (yes, the frag does not contain musk..). This current formula was a bit disappointing.
BUT, because of leakage, I had to replace the atomizer. Now, since it's such a cheapie I couldn't resist taking advantage of the ol' switcharoo, and added certain amounts of mint EO, Bergamot EO, patchouli EO and a few drops of pure oakmoss extrait. The frag is now smooth and rounded with a damp green sharpness, the moss now has a strangle-hold on the vanilla, turning down the gagging sweetness, and together with the castoreum and wood relays a warm mossy/musky base (as it should have). Lovely stuff. Not something I would do to a vintage, though!
Fwiw, the correct note-pyramid is:

Top: Mint, Bergamot, Lemon.
Heart: Patchouli, Jasmine, Ylang-ylang.
Base: Sandalwood, Castoreum, Vanilla, Oakmoss.

(I uploaded a photo of my bottle w/ 'new' sprayer+collar, obtained from an empty bottle of Basile Uomo)

Jan 28, 2019


Oscar de la Renta pour Lui by Oscar de la Renta

So, I've got a 2013-bottle of this glorious green, floral, mossy, leathery and very manly nectar (yes that's excactly how the 2013 edition smells like!) and I LOVE it.
And when that edition smells this good, I can just imagine how damn fine the vintage must be...

Al Pacino in a bottle! The hunt begins...
Dec 14, 2018


Adidas by Adidas

First of all, this is not a sports-frag. At all. In fact it is anything but.

This is what I tell myself I can detect:

Adidas is a herbal/aromatic/leathery chypre in the vein of Tuscany Per Uomo (1984 - although a fougére) with a suede-like worn-leather note throughout, reminding of a well-used indoor sports gym filled with worn leather soccer-, basket-, hand- and volley-balls and people ALL wearing those well-worn retro indoor Adidas suede-sneakers (if that makes sense), whispering florals and a dry herbal juniper contributing to the scents personality, all resting on an earthy warm and slightly dirty bed of oakmoss and vetiver, with musk and ambergris providing the dirt.
The lavender and dry citrus evokes a clean and very nice soapy feel. Like a crisp white bar of french milled soap.

This stuff is solid!
Adidas (today commonly known as Adidas Classic) is an unpretentious and classy masculine fragrance, launched by the sports-brand in 1985.
Originally made by Margaret Astor (D) and distributed by Beecham Cosmetics (later Quintessence) (US), this well-made masculine has never gotten the attention and recognition it truly deserves.

It is not a complex fragrance, but it's gentlemanly, well made and certainly unique enough to stand on it's own.
Sep 9, 2018


Grès Monsieur by Grès

This was an oddball at first, with a disturbing note I could not identify. Like warm mayonnaise..
I think the juice in the plastic-tube had been sitting there for too long, 'cause after a couple of 'trial-sprays' the fragrance had completely changed and the off-note was now a beautiful spearmint that, in cahoots with lavender, moss, carnation, cinnamon, bergamot and amber, now relayed a simple but intoxicating fresh green and warm aromatic fragrance. A new fav of mine. Great stuff, man.
Jul 28, 2018


Tabac Original by Mäurer & Wirtz

Doing a side-by-side of vintage (1980s) and current (2018) Tabac Original cologne splash'es. Apart from the packaging (and when tweaking the current edition with pure oakmoss oil), there really ain't that much of a difference imo. Vtg has a bit more tobacco, current slightly more pronounced aldehydes. Longevity of current cologne is slightly better.

Same goes for the aftershaves (early 1970s and 2018), though the fatty aldehydes are just a bit more pronounced in the current rendition and vintage just a tad more floral. Longevity about the same. All in all very slight differences imo.
I really dig this fragrance. Bravo, Mäurer & Wirtz
Jun 26, 2018


Brut by Fabergé

This review is for a NOS Fabergé-formula early/mid-1990s splash EdT. Semi-vintage (my definition of original/true vintage is 'pre-barcode' - this one has a barcode, therefore semi-vintage).

Note break-downs are not my thing. All I can say, is that it smells truly great! The 'colour' of the scent is a deep, warm moss-green.
The fragrance itself is aromatic, green, creamy and mossy, with a touch of powder 'n' spice and everything nice. Smooth and well-blended.
On my skin, performance is well above average. Longevity is 6+ hours, projection is good for the first couple of hours, then settles down leaving a creamy, mossy ambery trail still detectable to those around you.

This is my first Fabergé-made Brut that I own. Up untill this, I've only had the current Parfums Prestige version which, frankly, isn't bad at all. Current version is actually, imo, much more powdery and has a kinda 'medicinal' aroma to it (which isn't a bad thing) adding a certain sharpness to the scent while still retaining it's aromatic warmth, and still unmistakeably Brut.

There's a lot of vintage fragrances that I want, but there's only a couple that I really need and Brut is certainly one of them.

/martin

May 18, 2018


Quorum by Antonio Puig

Current formula is a castrated synthetic dreck. That, plus crap! Unrecognizable, imo. The Industry has gone from quality to quantity starting some 15-20 years ago.
Ooh, and don't forget the idiots association for ruining all fragrances (or IFRA)...
I'm glad I've got a big "damage control"-box of pure essential oils including the Mother of them all: oakmoss!
Pure, concentrated, undiluted, thick, beautiful steam-distilled oakmoss oil...
Choke on that, Mr. IFRA man.

Sorry for the whiplashing.

Vtg Quorum: 10/10
Current Quorum: 2/10
Apr 9, 2018


Trussardi Uomo (new) by Trussardi

First of all, Trussardi Uomo 2011(Uomo Trussardi) is NOT a reformulation of Trussardi Uomo (1983), allthough many online vendors put the two in the same booth. As so did I.
But then I got hold of a full bottle of vintage Trussardi Uomo, and it is absolutely gorgeous and addictive, imo.

Trussardi Uomo (2011), on the other hand, is a completely different scent, with it's synthetic Azzaro Chrome-like stinky opening and indifferent linear body was a complete waste of money.
A generic dreck with not even the slightest bit of dna in common with TU.

Lesson learned.
Mar 18, 2018


Tsar Cologne by Van Cleef & Arpels

Superb longevity, decent projection, very green and very mossy. It's beautiful. 9/10
Feb 16, 2018

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