HouseOfPhlegethon

Cuir Beluga by Guerlain

Fizzy floral notes, followed by smooth, creamy vanilla-patchouli. This, lasts for hours.

Soft, pale beige [colored] suede note with delicate flowers, in the base.

Utterly delightful!
Nov 26, 2021


Umbra by Ramon Monegal

Greenish earth. Old forest. A bit peppery. Tall pine trees in the wind. Manly. Fairly linear for quite some time.

Grows deeper with musty green accord.

Tonka bean is faint hours later.

It's okay. Not a thriller, for me.
Nov 6, 2021


Chipmunk by Zoologist Perfumes

Sweet-fruity, as in sugary, sweet. Nuttiness moves in quickly. Baked pie aroma... Then, it begins to smell like a forest. The sweetness fades and the heart notes take over...

More woody, later - amber-like, as well.

Autumn, in a bottle... Not overly strong, like some, of this house. Mellow, and enjoyable. It is fun, unisex, and lovely!
Oct 7, 2021


Grape Pearls by House of Oud

15 seconds of fruit, in the beginning. Then, it is all rose and coffee, and musk. Dead-ringer, for Montale's Intense Café.

Base notes, are amber, vanilla. Great, but not original.
Oct 7, 2021


Lolita Lempicka Le Premier Parfum Morsure d'Amour by Lolita Lempicka

To me, there isn't much difference between this flanker / bottle and the original. A tad "lighter" in strength.

The bottle is unique.
Sep 9, 2021


Breath of the Infinite by House of Oud

Fruity, floral sweetness. Talcum-powdery goodness.
Normally, peony and freesia are too strong to my nose. Here, they are tamped don with musk. This definitely leans towards feminine.

Soft, floral-woody notes later on. Pleasant fragrance. Not overly "new" in concept. Too pricey for what it is.
Sep 9, 2021


Modern Muse Le Rouge by Estée Lauder

Cloying, fruity-floral at first. Settles into a mellow, well-mixed, straight floral scent, in the heart. The base is boring and flat. Smells like most other designer scents. Slightly fuzzy warmth after many hours, on the skin.

More of a "pink", than a "red"....
Sep 9, 2021


Lolita Lempicka Eau de Minuit 2015 : Minuit d'Or by Lolita Lempicka

Finally added to the directory, I once owned this version... It smelled the same as the other Eau de Minuit flankers, with only a bit more myrrh in it's dry down. The gleaming, gold bottle was what prompted me to buy it - and then later sell because of its similarity to the other bottles I owned.
Sep 3, 2021


Hermèssence Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermès

Strong, fruity tea. Muddled, yet pleasant, flowers in the background. Brief, 4.5 hours on my skin. Hardly any sillage. Neutral rating, because of its fleeting wear.

I expected more of an apricot flair...
Sep 3, 2021


Cuir de Chine by Les Indémodables

Stale apricot jam that was slopped onto a new, suede leather garment. Wafts of floral tea, brewing in the kitchen. No jasmine, do I smell outwardly. Hours later, faint tobacco aroma. Lasts for many hours. Different from a lot of fragrances in my possession. Enjoyable...
Sep 3, 2021


Dodo (2020) by Zoologist Perfumes

Dry, bitter opening. A savory note prevails. Masculine, maybe - definitely not feminine... Savory note continues into the heart. Absolutely no sugary, sweetness, yet - remains bitter and rough around the edges.

The base, is the best layer. Gentle floral vibe, smooth, creamy woodiness. A tad of something "sweet". Overall - not a favorite of mine. I prefer the original Dodo... Sorry, Victor!
Aug 15, 2021


Tory Burch by Tory Burch

A bright, fresh floral. I smell something like rose, or a combination that reminds me of rose. The tuberose doesn't drown out the other notes in my opinion... Has a pale, soft base. It's a rather pleasant, Designer fragrance overall, if you prefer those types.
Aug 15, 2021


Shalimar Eau de Cologne by Guerlain

1950s bottle / sample...

Top notes have "darkened". Middle and basenotes seem more intense than the other formulas I have / had. More patchouli and opoponax here. No mistaking this is Shalimar. Lovely, vintage version.
Aug 13, 2021


Notget by Filigree Parfums

Briney, sea-animalic, musty, like mold or mildew. Stale tonic water. Very strong. Artsy but, not wearable for me.
Jul 17, 2021


Tales of Us by Filigree Parfums

Extremely bitter at first. Flowers are skanky, indolic, annoyingly rank. This borders on rotting green things, on my skin... Mellowed a bit in 2 hours. Still, yuck! Scrubber. A rare negative review for me.
Jul 17, 2021


Francis Black by Filigree Parfums

Spicy coffee with a tinge of coconut smell. Warm. Well-made. Cedar smells freshly cut. Vanilla, not too sweet. I like this one...
Jul 17, 2021


My Most Meaningful Relationships by Filigree Parfums

Saturated with petrichor and vetiver. It has a dry, medicinal vibe. Also, "greenish". Stays linear and steady, for its life on my skin. Lasts 10 and more hours. Heavy sillage.
Jul 17, 2021


C'est La Vie by Christian Lacroix

Full on florals. Loads of tuberose, ylang ylang, and jasmine. Has a waxy, lipstick accord at times. It has a musky, bar soap smell, too, that comes and goes. A little spiciness underneath... Woody, vanilla base much later. Love, love it! One of the best 90s fragrances made.
Jun 29, 2021


Tom Ford Noir pour Femme by Tom Ford

Very "perfume-y". Subtle citrus and spice. Well-mixed flowers. Typical vanilla-amber base. Overall it's well made but, I have had / tried many fragrances like this, with similar "notes". Too expensive for what it is. It IS enjoyable which is why I give it a positive rating.
Jun 29, 2021


Orchid Noir by Note Fragrances

Smells like candied flowers, sugared orchids. Berry fruitiness; slightly nutty, like walnuts or walnut wood. Perhaps the cocoa is throwing me off. Anyway, it's a good smell... Later on, more fruit, then vanilla. Orchid flows from the top, the heart, all the way through to the base. It never leaves. I eventually recognize the cocoa, mixed with patchouli and a musky note.

Overall, this reminds me greatly of Orchid Soleil by Tom Ford. Not exact but, close. One of the better fragrances by this house.
Jun 29, 2021


Black Opium Eau de Toilette by Yves Saint Laurent

Very similar to the EDP - fruitier, this "formula". Heart is still sweet, after the initial top blast of notes. It's vaguely floral in the middle, with a hint of watered-down coffee... Pale, woody base. Not a favorite.
May 19, 2021


Rhinoceros (2020) by Zoologist Perfumes

Comes in at a roaring pace, with intense, dark notes. It is a hot wind of manly smoke, stale whiskey, water-soaked horse-hide, and damp tobacco leaves, all rammed together. But, I over-sprayed with 5 spritzes, so, maybe that was too much for an initial impression?...

Later... incense note smells of raw, punk, incense sticks lit on a summer's day... Becomes slightly floral, later. Has a Far Eastern accord, as it mellows; settles on the skin.

Amber accord, many hours later...

Good stuff! I did not compare this to the original. Separate observation, as I enjoyed the first as well.
May 19, 2021


Seveline - Vanille Patchouli by Laurence Dumont

A simple vanilla-patchouli scent. Light enough for wearing at any time of the year. It's not mind-blowingly brilliant. It's soft, not too sweet, good enough for when you want a diet patchouli.
May 16, 2021


Sì by Giorgio Armani

Powdery fruit. Run-of-the-mill flowers. Not one of Ms. Nagel's finer creations. Probably more popular with the novice-sampler crowd. I'm just spoiled and more particular with my florals.

The base is a little better - soft woods, with a breath of sweetness. Overall - fair.
Apr 27, 2021

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