Vétiver (original) by Carven

A very nice vetiver, closest to Lanvin's in my collection, but without the massive civet that makes the Lanvin such a gem. Here it is a dryer and more properly chypresque (as in citrus chypre). I really like it, however the longevity is sadly absolutely dismal... Still worth it if found at a real bargain, since the Lanvin is so rare. Maybe the Givenchy which I smelled long ago is a better choice, but true vintages are hard to come by too. I should still get it to complete the old classic vetivers.
Nov 13, 2021

Royal de Rauch by Rauch

A note, since there's no reviews.
Royal is a soapy floral aldehyde, it smells pretty similar to Rive Gauche (71) on a side by side wrist test, the dry savon accord is coarser though which I enjoy and reminds me of Caleche as well, however I don't have any at hand to compare them.
It is good but not as good as either in any case.
Nov 12, 2021

Oud Minérale by Tom Ford

Had I known this was an aquatic I guess i would have passed as I don't like them pretty much universally, but running through the drug store to get emergency toothpaste I thought I'd get a spritz of this oud some some, as I don't dislike Oud Wood entirely and I do like Oud Wood Intense. The opening is underwhelming but ok with the titled Oud and minerality, saltishness and from there descended swiftly into olfactory hell. The calonic aqua ozoney mixed synthetic oud was just stomach turning and after a vigorous scrub remained unpleasant and relentless woodyambers that kept tormenting me for hours...
Nov 5, 2021

Or Black by Pascal Morabito

Dark oily, violet leaf and liquorice/anis and above all leather, as true as I've ever smelled, just great.
When I lived in NYC in the 90's and 00's, I've spent a few late nights at a leather bar called Rawhide, I'm sure it didn't reek of Or Black, but it should have.

Vintage mini
Oct 28, 2021

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

Beige age 90's "oriental". Oriental is not in quotation marks because I probably should try to find a better term to use for our times but because it's pretty far from anything I've used the fragrance qualification before. CMpH is mainly a clean tame"olive leaf"musk affair, coming after a fresh vaguely spicy opening. It's well made and inoffensive but altogether a bit middle of the road.
I've found that I'm pretty disinclined to soapy musks as they are for example used in Oscar de la Renta pour Lui, Eau de Rochas Homme, Eau de Campagne and Cartier's feminine Must itself . There's a sharp laundry freshness to them and to a lesser extant to Must pour Homme that makes me queasy sooner or later. This was a blind buy from the good reviews from some of our basenotes great reviewers, I can see what they see but unfortunately I'm not feeling it. If spices form the turn of the century is what I'm looking for, Envy or Carven Homme are what I'd reach for.
Oct 27, 2021

Cologne Nocturne by Le Galion

Classic citrus chypre over a light woody cedar base.
Very, very well done.
I've tried a few from Le Gallion and they were all excellent, the classic and quality ethos across the line is refreshing and commendable,
Sep 20, 2021

Saint-Germain-des-Prés by Céline

Neroli marshmallow, soft, very sweet and delicate, on a bed of heliotrope and light musks. It reminds me of Parle moi de Parfum Guimauve de Noel or a gourmand Penhaligon Castille.
I like it and I have a feeling my teenage daughter will too, despite neither of us being fans of overly sweet scents.
(she does)
Sep 16, 2021

Magie Noire by Lancôme

Dusky, spicy, dry, chypre oriental hybrid, razor slash of green top to bottom. Unsettling and bewitching.
Sep 10, 2021

Jean-Louis Scherrer by Jean-Louis Scherrer

Steep, elegant, chiseled green chypre, tightly blended flowers, none of which stands out and a great mossy base. The light, subtle leathery impression in the base comes from animalics, amber, sandalwood ... giving it an sensuous impression of peau d'espagne. Nothing of the stark leather of Cabochard or bandit here.
Quintessentially chypresque, wonderful.

Vintage mini
Sep 10, 2021

Dior Homme Parfum by Christian Dior

Dior Homme Parfum is one of the designer releases of the last few years that I really loved from first wear and came really close to purchasing, but always postponed doing so to a later date thinking it'd be there whenever I'd be ready. I'd get to wear it every few months passing through a department store or an airport. Then it was discontinued, then covid and next thing you know I couldn't find it anywhere and I felt as I did when Sycomore edt went, regretful.
I was lamenting when giving my impressions on Zegna Iris Florentine earlier this year that I hadn't encountered a masculine Iris centric fragrance that had the 70s 80s vintage treatment.
DHP is not it sadly, but by toning down the sweetness of DHI, upping the rose a bit (almost if not a la Egoiste) and adding a good amount of an almost IsoQuinolic leather we somewhat get in the vicinity. Don't get me wrong, the base is still heavy on "amberwoods" and not nearly as striking as the first third of the wear but I enjoy it and I guess I don't smell as "old man" as usual (not that I care).
I did managed to get me that long postponed bottle in the end. Quite happy, as I see it now going for 400 plus bucks on the net.I can't really make out the status of DHP, discontinued,75ml limited to Europe I don't know.
Sep 7, 2021

La Peau Nue by Céline

Excellent modern green chypre, very 19… Elegant.Could be a nice alternative to it as there’s complaints on current 19
The aldehyde top is replaced by a “carrotey” iris, soon getting richer and more buttery, in the base a nice modern vetiver.
Very good
Sep 4, 2021

Fleurs d'Oranger by Serge Lutens

Opulent rich thick orange blossoms, narcotic tuberose, warm cumin.
Isn’t it hot in here…?
Sep 1, 2021

Must de Cartier by Cartier

Must opens as a great oriental, complex and stuffed with many ingredients. What makes it original is how it’s infused with a great green galbanum up top to mids. So far really interesting and wonderful. However the galbanum segues into a screetchy laundry musk towards the mids and base and at that point all the goodness that came before was lost.
I had done a good dousing and I came real close to jumping in the shower.

Vintage mini
Aug 30, 2021

Eau de Rochas Homme by Rochas

Eau de Rochas pour Homme opens as a classic citrus chypre, but soon asserts a woody cedar, musks combo that feels like an ancestor to the modern “radiating” Iso/ cedar, citrus, musk cologne/chypre everybody’s been churning out for years.
Interesting for it’s place in the evolution of the genre, but I found it grating, the musks veering dangerously close to laundry territory.
I personally find the classic citrus chypre construction and evolution much more interesting as well as the more modern interpretations of what it does such as Dior Homme Cologne or Allure Homme Sport Cologne.
Aug 28, 2021

Weil pour Homme (original) by Weil

Weil pour homme is a good old school aromatic/herbal fougere. In the manner of Monsieur Rochas but not as well implemented upon development Paco Rabanne echoes as well.
The first 30 mn are a bit unsettling, could be from the age of my mini but Foetidus corroborates.
Early vintage mini
Aug 27, 2021

Monsieur de Rauch by Rauch

Pedestrian citrus fougere according to the notes, feels more like a chypre to me. Strong on a verbena geranium clary sage combo giving it a distinctive quite unpleasant “natural insect repellent “ from sprays sold to that effect one can find at natural stores.
The mini I’m sampling from is probably far from pristine but the juice looks good, and it doesn’t smell turned per say.
Surprising dud (if what I smell is representative), from Raymond Chaillan who has created some of my very favourite scents
Aug 26, 2021

Vent Vert (original) by Pierre Balmain

Extraordinary! The most perfect green scent l’ve ever experienced. The galbanum is present front and center but completely avoids any stridency that often accompanies it. The blending is superb and it’s hard for me to separate notes, listed here it makes sense, so many, so well agenced for a wheightless, fresh and yet substantial scent.
Truly a delight!

Vintage edt
Aug 25, 2021

Eau de Caron by Caron

Eau de Caron is a delightful citrus chypre oriental hybrid. Perfectly calibrated, citrus top notes, lavander, rosemary, superbe oakmoss, lick of civet. In the heart, discreet gentle flowers (jasmine, light roses, carnations) soon joined by an ambery vanilla and cedar base.
Superbly blended, absolutely a Caron and totally delightful !!
Aug 23, 2021

Le Frenchy by Guerlain

Le Frenchy is very good, it’s basically an old school citrus chypre getting a luxury 21st century treatment. The top hesperedic opening is fantastic, top notch materials, at this price point it’s to be expected I suppose. The oakmoss base is beautiful as well, most likely the cleaned up version Guerlain has developed some years ago, and other things as well with a very satisfying result. The modern touches consists of radiating Iso and very clean modern patchouli, but unlike too often, here used with restrain. It looses in current style projection and longevity for sure but really ads to the composition avoiding the usual contemporary overdose and not coming close to losing old school fundamentalists(me lol).
Now, for that kind of money, obviously to me, it’s not a purchase I would ever make. I’m good with my stash of vintage Eau Sauvage, which Le Frenchy feels a lot like adding the modern treatment. Also I haven’t smelled current Eau Sauvage in a while but it could very well be fairly close to this now to comply with current regulations. I will compare eventually and update.

Altogether a really good scent
Aug 22, 2021

Sergio Soldano for Men (White) by Sergio Soldano

In the style of Tiffany for men (old one), Pour Monsieur Concentre and many others.. Very good if a bit redundant if you own those, Sagamore too maybe. Or my very favourite Ungaro II
Excellent however.
Aug 22, 2021

Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I’ve always liked Lumiere Noire. Why? It touches onto enough vintagish steps to satisfy the grumpy “they don’t make ‘em “ in me. Those are rose and artemisia and a phat musk w a little animalics.
It has a classic feeling without feeling dated ( to be honest it must be to the blue crowd anyway).
It see it working nicely for a colder month signature for someone dabbling already in come hither vintage 80’s.
Aug 10, 2021

Florentine Iris by Ermenegildo Zegna

The Iris is beautiful, not sweet or gourmand and fairly masculine, so it could be a nice alternative to Dior Homme intense for a dryer interpretation. The base though is pure Norlimbanol amberwoods, which doesn’t work for me at all.
This makes me yearn for such an Iris centered scent but anchored in oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, a touch of castoreum… the 70’s 80’s treatment. I can smell it in my head lol
Was/is there such a scent? Do let me know.
Aug 5, 2021

Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron

Aldehyde floral classic construction, Jasmine, Rose, soapy sandalwood etc..
Caron sure does like it's carnations, most I've tried figure this note prominently, it is present here as well, most noticably in the heart, and gives it that classic Caron signature. It has also one of the most shocking and seriously animalic civet I've had the pleasure to encounter, progressively toning down amidst the splendid bouquet and musks.

It is so... beautiful.

Sampled from a very old and bruised up top pure parfum.
Jul 22, 2021

Invictus Victory by Paco Rabanne

I like to think I keep an open mind when trying scents, but really I can't possibly begin to understand how anyone, anywhere would want to smell of this (as well as dozens of currently on shelves designers to be fair). Really puzzling.
Varanis below does a great job of breaking it down as always.
Jul 6, 2021

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