Hunter by Armaf

This one starts out very woody of cedar and it's filtering through some citrus. I catch a yellow floral in this...ylang-ylang but possibly a yellow jasmine. I do get a bitter green hint of moss. Lots of calone floating around in the blend. I get hints of leather in the finish.

Hunter by Armaf is an odd one. This feels like it's trying to merge a spring and fall scent into one as a casual wear or office scent. But the design clashes for the first few hours and it's quite rough until it mellows down. It's very dry and sharp. Calone makes this feel like an early 1990's fragrance but there's just too much. When that calone mixes with the yellow florals it strangely smells like bananas.
Oct 17, 2021

Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

The opening is very fresh and clean, it's a lot of orange and a grapefruit note. The grapefruit note is holding some laurel so this comes off as a 90's sport shampoo or soap smell with a green twist. The orange develops a sweetness and at first it's really peachy to the nose from a calone note that burns off after a few minutes. Then this sweetness changes to incense tones from benzoin resin and vanilla's almost a caramel like sweetness. I get a good amount of sandalwood which is softened by the powdery and sweet orange note. I also get musk which has a slightly creamy and semi nutty hint to it from the soft sandalwood.

Roma Uomo is an easy to wear fragrance. I'm giving it a neutral because I think for it's time it was quite original. But the fruity/vanilla thing has been done so much over the past 20 years in under $20 men's fragrances that this just doesn't stand out.
Jun 12, 2021

Furyo by Jacques Bogart

Recently I acquired a bottle of Furyo that's current from it's extensive ingredients list on the box.

This opens up with a punch (I feel) is more hefty on civet than castoreum. The initial piss tone of the civet just sticks out more until dry down. I get a large note of jasmine that's linked to subtle amounts of sweet cinnamon, sandalwood, laurel, nag champa incense, and lavender. It's a dark red/exotically sweet and incense-ish (but not too sweet), and kind of leafy smell with a mildly soapy tone. The lavender note gets bigger and picks up the animalic notes and jasmine. I'll be blunt the whole floral and animalic note fusion shapes out a slight urinal cake smell. I'm usually not fond of the urinal cake association but Furyo is the exception. It's the slightly "new age" blend of notes that surrounds that urinal cake note. It's dirty sex in the bedroom while playing Enigma's "Principles of Lust" on the stereo.

Furyo's design I can detect some character similar to Kouros (1981). But Ron Winnegrad did use jasmine and animalics in an older fragrance of his called Leonard Pour Homme (1980). Furyo was a better fragrance than Kouros in my opinion and definitely was abstract. Furyo goes on heavy yet smoothens out balances out it's animalic/aromatic sides quite well. This was one that liked to stay close to it's wearer though so don't expect Kouros level projection.
May 24, 2021

Sybaris by Antonio Puig

Sybaris has been on my list to get for many years and especially in a splash bottle. Now after obtaining a 6.7 oz bottle the bottom of the box says this is "a Quorum designs
product" this is a follow-up scent. Also a copyright year of 1987.

On opening a bit of lemon that fades away only to be taken over by honey, amber, and a little oakmoss. I'm reminded of Boss Number One (1985) at this point, but way lighter. Then this develops a very animalic quality of musk combined with a powdery and semi-soapy jasmine...very identical to Stetson (1981). Hints of cinnamon or leather on occasion in later hours of wear but not really consistent.

Sybaris smells good but it's not an original design. It was a collaboration or experiment on fusing what was pleasant from a few 80's fragrances. If I stumbled across Sybaris and wasn't familiar with 80's scents I would have given it a thumbs up.

May 14, 2021

Hugo by Hugo Boss

This fragrance opens up quite sporty smelling of mint, pine, and a somewhat fizzy soap blend from lavender and grapefruit. This sporty freshness quickly calms down to reveal some spicy clove ,geranium, and cedar which filter through the fresh/sporty body. If you sniff at the geranium you'll catch that the rum and clove is merged with it. In the finish I get just a bit of calone that puts a slightly aquatic hint to the mix. I have never detected apple in this fragrance.

Hugo by Hugo Boss is a fragrance I'm revisiting again. I don't think this is as deeply synthetic as others have stated. But I do feel this fragrance was inspired by Ungaro III (1993).

Apr 2, 2021

Léonard pour Homme (original) by Léonard

To me this fragrance comes off as very powdery in design. The heart of Leonard PH is very romantic of carnation and some leather. A good amount of castoreum flows through the powdery body of this, so expect it to be musky. There seems to be a lot of movement from the incense at times branching out between the leather and oakmoss for a "burning leaves" similarity, then to the castoreum to make it dark and more oily. There is a lavender/oakmoss/herbs/citrus combo that creates a green yet citrusy fresh soap smell. This soap design is mild though, almost as a separate layer to not interfere with the dark side of Leonard PH.

I'll gladly add to the thumbs up crowd on Leonard Pour Homme. This is a gentleman's scent that is smooth and balanced for the stronger notes it has. I think a fan of Aramis (1965) would really take to this fragrance. It's strictly a classic men's fragrances with just a dab of 80's innovation. Outdated to some...timeless to others.

Nov 5, 2020

Vintage by John Varvatos

This one is very tart and slightly juicy from a lot of rhubarb. Something boozy yet has kind of a spiced vanilla and chamomile is mixing with the tartness. The spiced vanilla seems sweet at first, but the tartness smoothens it out. I get more suede than I do tobacco. This is also a little smooth and clean from a lavender and juniper combo. Not enough juniper to make this remind me of pine...more of a subtle and green brisk feel.

Vintage by John Varvatos is definitely a brown scent and quite abstract from the rhubarb approach. This is a modern scent, but does have noticeable retro inspiration through the dark booze and leather traits. Perry Ellis for Men (1985), or the old Revlon formula of Chaz (1975) immediately come to mind.

I get a firm 8 hours of low projection from this through 5 sprays. It's a little weak but not as bad as I was expecting from the negative reviews.
Oct 26, 2020

Eros by Versace

I acquired a bottle of this under batch code# SA422 and I must say I'm not impressed with Eros by Versace.

I get an opening slightly fresh of mint then it's coated over by a lot of vanilla. I get green apple, cedar, and little ambroxan in the blend. Occasionally the mint peeping through the vanilla body of this fragrance.

I get about 8 hours of light projection with this fragrance so it's no performance beast. Eros to me scent wise isn't unpleasant...but it's a rip off at cost. It's an office and casual wear fragrance. This fragrance has a lot in common with the Penguin/Musingwear apple based fragrances that were designed before Eros and are about $20.

Aug 25, 2020

John Varvatos by John Varvatos

This one for me opens up green of tamarind leaves, wood, and strong of black leather. I get dates sprinkled with a little cinnamon then dipped in vanilla. This fragrance has a light shower gel smell to it that the leather and tamarind leaves filter through.

John Varvatos is a pretty balanced leather scent for office wear. This isn't too sweet or spicy and gives a different approach to a clean scent. It's not a copycat obviously but it's design seems to have inspiration from Preferred Stock (1990) to my nose. This is low-key in projection though so expect this to be a close encounter fragrance.
Jul 23, 2020

Carrera (original) by Carrera

Carrera Pour Homme was a blind-buy for me and wasn't quite what I was expecting. It's bottle looks like a deodorant stick and other reviews on Fragrantica described it as an "after shower" or sporty fresh scent. Being that this was made in the late 80's I was curious about those descriptions.

I get some light and powdery lavender and pretty firm on sandalwood. I don't get any of the other florals mentioned but one (not listed)... it's violet. All of this is creamed over by some tonka. The tonka though seems to be lightly touched by moss giving bitterness to the vanilla. This toughens up the violet a little and reflects the pale green fluid color to a degree. There's some kind of mild sweetness to this working through the fragrance. It comes off like a cherry sweetart. It's a familiar synthetic sweetness that must have worked it's way into the mid 1990's fragrances like Faconnable EDT and Arsenal (grey grenade bottle with red lettering) by Gilles Cantuel.

Carrera PH is a very creamy and colorful aromatic that is easy to wear. It's not refreshing or a sharp/soapy just showered smell. But it does smell good. Why I give this fragrance a neutral is I unknowingly met it's clone many years ago. Carrera PH just gets too light veering to a skin scent in a few hours after 6 sprays while the clone is longer lasting/stronger. That clone is the Arsenal fragrance I mentioned and smells remarkably similar. Arsenal will also be much cheaper when the secondary market starts driving up cost off rarity/discontinuation and the Carrera name.
Jun 30, 2020

Lapidus pour Homme Sport by Ted Lapidus

This one opens up strong of white florals and citrus. There is some lavender in here but for powdery texture. This fragrance isn't soapy, it's rather clean from the citrus. I catch a soft sandalwood accompanied by a light aquatic note. A little incense and some of that animalic musk from Lapidus PH (1987).

Lapidus PH Sport is the fresher version on the classic powerhouse for spring and summer wear. In that tradition it also cranks out some of that Lapidus raunch. Even though this is more tempered it's not going to fit with the generalization of a energetic and ultra clean sports scent. I'd recommend this to a Lapidus PH fan who wants a version that works for warmer weather.
Jun 11, 2020

Only The Brave by Diesel

I managed to acquire a 4.2oz of this for $35 from a pharmacy that was closing down. I've always wanted to try Only The Brave and have been curious about it's bottle this was a blind-buy.

I get a sharp and dry opening of the lemon and cedar. Synthetic green apple and a slight watery note like a sport scent. This gets sweet as the amber becomes more present and mixing with the apple it reminds one of a caramel apple and then mellows out. This gains leather, a hint of violet, and that cedar/lemon sharpness lingers. This fragrance is fairly dry and also warm from the amber. I'd say this is a summer evening and fall scent for office and casual wear.

Only The Brave is a decent scent, the problem is it smells cheap by design. This smells like it could easily be a Thallium or Penguin fragrance. If I blind bought this at $50-$60 I'd be pissed and give it a thumbs down. I'd recommend this only when it becomes a budget fragrance.
Jun 6, 2020

Encre Noire by Lalique

I get a lot of cypress as the base followed with a cool blast from ISO Super E. Add to that a dark and rooty vetiver note that blends with the cypress creating that "black ink" impression. Hints of cashmere throw on a fabric sensation. Lastly a kind of sweet and pale musk note develops later on as part of the finish. The musk doesn't seem to fit in the fragrance style.

I'm just not seeing the hype on Encre Noir by Lalique. It smells exactly like the pair of grey wool gloves that I keep in my basement. I use them for burn days and chopping wood. The wool has absorbed ash, pine tree needles, and sap. That cold breeze of ISO Super E adds the sensation that I'm wearing those gloves on a windy winter day. Encre Noire might be innovative to people who come from urban areas. To rural people it's a smell of yardwork that we shower off before going out to eat or sitting at the dinner table.
May 13, 2020

Passion for Men by Elizabeth Taylor

I get a base primarily of smooth vanilla that's mildly darkened by a black licorice note, and sandalwood. At the heart I get styrax, patchouli,cinnamon, and moss. Before this fragrance dries that heart is one spicy,green, and incense-y streak and then scatters. Not all of these notes surface up at once but a few come about randomly interacting with each other or lightly contacting the black licorice or sandalwood of the base. Cinnamon spicing the sandalwood a little. Or styrax getting sweetened a little by the cross-interaction with black licorice. Light hints of patchouli and moss may pop up and cinnamon detects their presence and seasons them temporarily, then leaves them alone to show their green side. The vanilla base keeps this fragrance smooth and well tempered, it would be very warm and cloying without it. In later hours a little lavender comes out only to make the base a little powdery.

Passion for Men has been a drugstore scent since it hit the market. That's not a bad thing because most colognes are to be locally found and in working-class affordability. As a vanilla and licorice based scent it's an interesting aromatic for how cheap is.

Mar 29, 2020

Vera Wang for Men by Vera Wang

This fragrance opens up with the orange leaf filtering through the yuzu giving the result of a bitter orange. Sniffing at this orange note I pick up a lot of leather with it. A smooth powder made from lavender and vanilla reveals itself with interplay from the other notes without affecting the citrus/leather base. The nutmeg adds a hint of warmth and sweetness though I wouldn't say "spicy". The tobacco is soft and fluffy from the vanilla. The sandalwood is hit by the lavender powder and yes, reminds me of clean sandalwood talc powder.

Vera Wang for Men isn't a "wedding day" scent to me. It is smooth and elegant to be an office scent. But it's very conservative in the country club vein of other citrus/leather scents like English Leather and Safari for Men.
Mar 14, 2020

Salvatore Ferragamo pour Homme by Salvatore Ferragamo

I gave this one a blind buy and I didn't care for it. I was optimistic that I would like it because I'm such a fan of Memoire D' Homme by Nina Ricci (2002) and the design of Salvatore Ferragamo PH sounds like it's related to it.

This has a pretty sharp opening that lasts a few hours and it's the grapefruit note that's the culprit. It's fresh and clean, but puts a lot of screech factor to the bright cedar and edgy oakmoss (I don't get vetiver at all). The fig and clove heart isn't cloying or's a smooth fall spice smell that lends maturity to the fragrance. Add the woody note to that fall vibe and it's a good result. But this spicy/woody gets soured and flat and it's the acidic quality of the grapefruit as it slithers through those notes. This fragrance tries to hide it's sport scent side by filtering through notes instead and it's just not attractive.

Salvatore Ferragamo PH an interesting office scent with "thumbs up" potential. For me it's rewards are very small for how annoying it gets.
Feb 29, 2020

Chrome by Azzaro

I get an opening of sharp and fresh bitter orange and a cool and powdery soap. This comes off as very clean and slightly metallic. Following with that a "blue floral" note which must be the hedione. The ivy and lichen comes on kind of strong at first then lightens. Just a little bit of musk in the finish from that "transparent musk" to keep from thickening and taking over the style of Chrome.

Chrome is a good fragrance in certain ways. I think this always smelled very uplifting right after a hot shower and keeps that cool/clean/metallic freshness throughout the day. Even though it's very out of season for winter it adds a pleasing zing to the cold, biting, wind on a snowy day.
Jan 13, 2020

Giorgio for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills

I walk a different path on Giorgio for Men. I think the green aspect of this is more tree moss than patchouli. But I agree with others that this is a strong and well performing fragrance.

I get an opening with a light combo of soap and carnation that a lots of 80's fragrance possess. A lot of tree moss and a pinch of patchouli comes forward. But there's this resin sweetness of amber,honey,and cinnamon that glosses over the green side. This "sweetened green resin" reminds me of British Sterling. The soap softens to a powder, a little zing of lemon and a leathery note comes out in the finish.

Giorgio for Men is a pretty good fragrance. On the topic of Givenchy Gentleman being similar to this?, they are two completely different animals to my nose. Giorgio for Men does hit hard at initial blast with it's strong notes. Let it dry and you're rewarded with a very sophisticated and colorful men's fragrance.

Dec 20, 2019

Minotaure by Paloma Picasso

I finally acquired a new old stock Cosmair era bottle of Minotaure. I used to see this fragrance in the department stores and always wanted to try it. Hard to find and pricey so I obtained the vintage.

This fragrance opens up clear of citrus and aldehydes. The citrus tames down while the florals reveal themselves which are attached to the aldehydes. This fragrance becomes fruity. Sandalwood in the background which becomes creamy from a rising texture of vanilla which touches the fruit. I don't get leather...but I do get a slight patchouli in the finish.

So why a neutral rating?
I'll give Minotaure props for inspiring this early 2000's fragrance it reminds me of...but not when comes to cost. Thallium by Jacques Evard instantly came to mind...that's a $15 fragrance. Now I like both Thallium and Minotaure's style... but the resemblance was so uncanny to Thallium it was ridiculous. If there was a knob to control the vanilla in Thallium and you rolled it back? would reveal itself as Minotaure. Bottom line is I'll stick to Thallium. Minotaure in any formula is overpriced.
Dec 19, 2019

Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

I can't speak for the vintage but I own a bottle of Givenchy Gentleman that I blind-bought 5 or 6 years ago.

This is a fragrance that essentially is a bar of soap. Embedded in this soap are pieces of patchouli mostly and some vetiver. Now imagine dipping this soap bar in honey. This is a wearable fragrance...but lifeless.

Givenchy Gentleman doesn't impress me at all hence the thumbs down. It's bland and lacks imagination, it's overpriced, and it doesn't last. It's insulting for one to even compare this to Giorgio for Men(1984) when it's nothing similar. Givenchy Gentleman is far more comparable to Boss Number One by Hugo Boss (1985).
Dec 11, 2019

Open Gold by Roger & Gallet

Open Gold is a warm and rich scent.

I get a thick and musky base of castoreum with a bit of oakmoss to it. The heart of this is jasmine dipped in cinnamon and vanilla, so more sweet and spicy with a subtle floral. A bit of leather in this but it's readable through the castoreum. Sandalwood in a powdery form creates a smoothness and rubs away some edge where one could perceive this fragrance as syrupy without it. This fragrance isn't soapy at all.

Open Gold by Roger & Gallet is shaped to a be smooth gentleman's scent but the slight nuances of Versace L'Homme (1984). In the cinnamon, vanilla, and leather aspects at least. This does smell golden and warm though. I'd recommend this to a guy who likes Aramis(1965). It may smell of yesteryear, but Open Gold does smell thick and luxurious.

Dec 6, 2019

Open by Roger & Gallet

This fragrance has a base of lavender combined with a warm and smooth duo of amber and nutmeg. This is a spicy and kind of sweet soap smell that makes me think of Pears Original Soap (the transparent deep orange bar).As the soap mellows I get a blurry green structure of pine and moss or herbs with the tobacco present.

Open reminds me a lot of Quorum. But it's drier from not having any citrus in comparison to said fragrance. The spice in it also gives something old-fashioned about it that makes it seem like it predated Quorum actually. 2-3 sprays and 10-12 hours of moderate projection...this is obviously still powerhouse strength.

Nov 27, 2019

Vermeil for Men by Vermeil

I get a little soap in a powdery form and a very rich level of musk. It's the same kind of musk found in Salvador Dali Pour Homme (1987). A Lapidus Pour Homme (1987)style pipe tobacco note surfaces mixed with a dark and sweet blackcurrant liquer and it smells good as a combination. There's something of a mild leather impression dwelling in the mid section though I can't tell if it's the musk and tobacco contact causing this. This fragrance mellows down from the soap and musk.

Vermeil for Men (1995) has powerhouse strength and late 80's inspiration through and through. The notes quality in this are definitely not bottom shelf and this is very wearable. On the other hand it is a very rudimentary design with it's limited amount of notes. Vermeil for Men was a thick and smooth musk fragrance with a tobacco and sweet liquer twist. I like a good musk scent so I find this fragrance to be a keeper. Though someone pursuing this for that next jonesing of a dry, spicy, and earthy tobacco scent may find Vermeil for Men to be unique...or they could find it boring.
Nov 19, 2019

Mackie for Men by Bob Mackie

To my nose I echo a similar view that this has kinship to Eternity for Men though I consider Mackie to be a softer scent. This has a similar bitter-green base of aldehydes and vetiver but with a little lime in addition. The heart is very floral of violets and a breeze of powdery lavender and this gives the softness to it.Sandalwood just like Eternity but I get more in this fragrance.

I wouldn't really call Mackie for Men a teenage scent because it doesn't smell as young as the average fresh scent. It's not sweet or fruity to me. In fact I think the bitterness and violets throw a little overcast on this bright green and powdery smells more of suit and tie.

Nov 15, 2019

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